By Deena Campbell

On a warm March evening in the heart of New York City, where cobblestone streets still whisper traces of the neighborhood’s industrial past and creativity seems to spill from every storefront, fragrance took center stage. The Fragrance Foundation closed out its monthlong celebration with The Art of Fragrance, a richly layered event held inside the brightly colored DVF flagship in the Meatpacking District; a space so vivid, so dramatic and so unmistakably Diane von Furstenberg, it felt less like a store and more like a living gallery. Tucked just off 14th and Washington, the flagship glowed in geometric shades of pink, blue and green as guests gathered adjacent to a Swarovski-studded staircase to celebrate scent not as product, but as art.

The evening marked the first-ever partnership between The Fragrance Foundation and the Meatpacking District Business Improvement District (BID), a fitting collaboration for a neighborhood that has long positioned itself as a canvas for culture. Earlier in the week, fragrance lovers wandered the district during a Fragrance Crawl, moving from boutique to boutique across the plazas and stone-paved streets that give the area its singular texture. But Thursday night’s gathering was the grand finale: intimate, elegant and steeped in the creative energy that makes New York feel like New York. As The Fragrance Foundation president Linda G. Levy welcomed guests, she called the DVF flagship “the most spectacular space.” The room itself seemed to mirror the subject at hand: bold, feminine and impossible to ignore.

Timed to both Fragrance Day and Women’s History Month, the panel brought together three renowned female perfumers—Mathilde Bijaoui of MANE, Honorine Blanc of dsm-firmenich and Caroline Sabas of Givaudan—for a conversation that was as transportive and emotive as the scents they create. It was less a panel than a window into how perfume is born through memory, persistence and a great deal of feeling.

Tiffany Griffin of the Meatpacking District Management Association captured the spirit of the neighborhood best when she described the district as “a venue, a canvas, a stage” and “a place for artists and creatives to come here, showcase their work and continue to be inspired.” That sentiment felt especially apt as the conversation turned to fragrance itself. Griffin noted that while many people know the Meatpacking District for shopping, dining and its thriving art scene, “literally every corner you can discover a new scent in the neighborhood.” In a place where style, architecture and atmosphere already do so much talking, fragrance felt like the final invisible layer.

Then came the perfumers, each with her own story, each speaking about scent as though it were both science and soul. Bijaoui recalled knowing she wanted to become a perfumer as soon as she realized it was a real job. As a child, she was drawn not just to perfume, but to smells of all kinds—flowers, kitchens, ingredients, anything that could be named and remembered through the nose. Blanc shared a journey marked by determination, from Lebanon to Paris, where she pursued perfumery despite repeated rejection. Sabas, who grew up in Grasse, the legendary cradle of perfume, described how a teenage job in her father’s lab changed her life. Each woman spoke of the path not as some romantic inevitability, but as a choice reinforced again and again through work, rejection, study and obsession.

What emerged most clearly throughout the evening was the idea that perfumery is an emotional craft. Blanc, in one of the night’s most memorable moments, spoke about being told years ago that if she wanted to become a master perfumer, she needed to tone down her emotions. “You have to calm down,” she recalled being told. She refused. If she removed what made her unique, she said, she would no longer be understood through her creations. “When you create, you and the formula become one,” she explained.

Sabas echoed that sentiment, saying that over time she learned to create through feeling rather than suppress it. Where once she thought she had to be stronger, harder, more controlled, she now embraces vulnerability as part of her process. Bijaoui, too, described the work almost like play, comparing it to building with Legos at her computer, combining notes with an enthusiasm that still feels intense even after decades in the business. The women spoke not only about ingredients (jasmine sambac, cardamom, vetiver) but about challenge and imagination. A difficult ingredient, Blanc suggested, can become the beginning of creativity. An unexpected client request can pull a perfumer out of her comfort zone and into something more original.

And perhaps the most fascinating takeaway of the night is that fragrance may be invisible, but its making is incredibly tactile. It is built from flowers and spice, memory and tension, chemistry and intuition. It is also deeply collaborative. The perfumers talked about working with women-founded brands, navigating strong creative points of view and figuring out when a fragrance is finally done. There is no neat answer, only a sense, developed through experience, that the balance is right. As Blanc put it, a formula has to feel as beautiful as the finished product.

By the evening’s close, the room had taken on a warmth that follows a truly good conversation; the kind where people are not only listening, but recognizing themselves in what’s being said. Guests nodded their heads, lingered, shopped and drifted through the flagship with renewed appreciation for what a fragrance can hold. 

It was a fitting end to Fragrance Month and an especially resonant one during Women’s History Month. And as guests left the DVF flagship and stepped back onto the cobblestones of the Meatpacking District, there was a sense that the evening had done what great fragrance does best. It left something lingering in the air, long after the room had emptied.

“2026 feels like a year of intention…professionally, it is about deepening my involvement within the fragrance community, staying connected through new chapters and gatherings, continuing to learn, and mentoring the next generation of perfumers as the industry evolves. On a personal note, my resolutions are about channeling that same energy into everyday life: being more physically active outdoors through biking, jogging, tennis, and finally learning pickleball, fostering animals, growing a garden and finding inspiration in new herbs, carving out time to unwind and reset, and staying consciously grateful throughout the journey.”

“For the New Year, I want to keep wandering through New York, letting the city reveal its best and inspire my work: from exhibitions and theatre to ballet and unexpected creative concepts. I want to continue refining my writing in perfumery, searching for ideas that feel more intuitive, innovative, and surprising. Above all, I want to slow down, savor the small moments instead of rushing past them.  And perhaps to learn something entirely new, like salsa.”

“This New Year feels especially meaningful to me, as I moved to New York 4 months ago. I hope this year is guided by love, both professionally and personally.

My first resolution is to do everything I can to help my family feel happy here: to explore and discover as much as possible (New York, the U.S., new people…), to take care of my young children, and to stay connected with the loved ones who remain in France.

Professionally, I want to stay open, to learn as much as I can from this new experience, to embrace this adventure, and, hopefully, to smell the scent of my perfumes in the streets of New York.” 

“As the New Year unfolds, I like to embrace reflection, revival, and redesign. In perfumery, each creation is a chance to surprise and delight — to challenge the norm and awaken new emotions. I look to the New Year as an opportunity to recenter into that mindset where new ideas become sparks for innovation and offer great reminders that beauty often emerges from the unexpected.”

“New Years is one of my favorite times of the year as it provides a great opportunity to pause, evaluate and think about the future. I have big ambitions for 2026, both personally and professionally. As a perfumer, I would like to challenge myself to smell a new ingredient every single day, revisiting forgotten favorites and discovering new notes available to us. This type of discovery is instrumental to our creativity. I would also like to travel more and have some exciting client trips already in the works! On a more personal note, I look forward to reading more, spending time with my family, and enjoying every bit of nature that I can.” 

“In 2026, I am excited to continue to build on the momentum I have gained this year working with a wide range of great customers. I am challenging myself to be more deliberate in my formulations, to use materials with a clear purpose, and simplify where I can. I started learning Russian in 2024 but admittedly lost some momentum this year. In 2026, I plan to set a consistent schedule and make progress in my language learning. 2026 will also be the year I finally set up a home studio so I can record demos and hopefully release some music.”

“I love to read so it’s something I really want to prioritize next year. I have a big pile of books I want to read in 2026, in French, English and Spanish. Professionally, I want to revisit some of the classics in perfumery; we forget how rich our perfume history is. Taking the time to understand how past fragrances were created serves as a big source of inspiration. Something else that has been on my “to do” list for years is to create accords of my travels. Each trip is different and creating fragrances around trips helps me remember those moments and emotions better. They also serve as great inspiration for my projects. I also want to make photo albums of my trips so I can easily look back and relive those moments.”

How we see white conjures up many definitions, images and debate, depending on the creative, cultural or historical lens we are looking through. From an artist’s perspective, the palette of white is achromatic – lacking hue, but not presence or character. While color is an expression of light and symbolism, it too is an expression of scent. Symbolic of purity and simplicity, that serenity of white has been instilled through the lens of a perfumer’s perspective for us to smell. 

At a pop-up in NYC, a cross-collaboration by Pura^®, Pantone^® and dsm-firmenich brought color and scent to life in celebration of Cloud Dancer, Pantone’s^® Color of the Year 2026, and transported us to a walk amidst the clouds.

There, Accords caught up with the perfumers of dsm-firmenich and the creative teams at Pura and Pantone who dreamed up the ethereal aesthetic.

Mara Dumski, Pura’s Chief Fragrance Experience Officer who presided over the event and the installation explained that “Fragrance, much like color, can transform how we feel. This reflects Pura’s unique ability to translate color, and the emotions it inspires, into scent. With Cloud Dancer, our goal was to craft a sensory expression of calm, a peaceful pause in the middle of life’s noise. It’s about fresh starts and the simple act of being present.” She achieved that and more as guests passed by an artistically sculpted large-scale model of a cloud that filled Cloud Dancer into the space. As white mists wafted throughout a stark industrial space, Pura infused a warm, calm and welcome respite from the cold, gray sidewalks of the city in early December with an immersive experience that was heaven scent.

Deepening the connection between color and scent, VP Pantone Color Institute™, Laurie Pressman noted that “PANTONE 11-4201 Cloud Dancer opens space for creativity, allowing imagination to wander and drift so that new insights and bold ideas can emerge and take shape.” According to Pressman, its airy white hue, allows users to fully immerse themselves in a serene and calming sensory experience through Pura’s creativity and scent expertise that brings Cloud Dancer to another level. The space for the event was fitting with the soaring 17-ft. high ceilings characteristic of the Flatiron district perfectly setting  the scene for creativity to take flight.

Of course, this sensorial experience where color was reimagined through scent was masterfully created by the artistic co-collaboration of dsm-firmenich’s NY based perfumers, Clement Gavarry and Erwan Raguenes. Mingling with guests at the experience and seen on video screens describing the inspiration and creative process, both perfumers mused that Cloud Dancer was inspired not only by the color but also by the motion and softness that the name suggests. They approached the fragrance as something weightless and fluid, a quiet pause in the middle of a hectic day. “Bright bergamot and luminous florals lift the opening, while airy musks and sheer woods add a smooth, modern calm. The result is a serene composition that floats gently and invites you to breathe a little easier.”

In addition to the Pura experience, dsm-firmenich has been integral in translating color into scent, building an olfactive legacy for over twenty-five years as sensory partner to Pantone’s Color of the Year. With their proprietary ingredients, the creative canvas has flourished through the craftsmanship of Paris-based perfumer Coralie Spicher, who created the hero fragrance Cloud Dancer eau de parfum and collection for this year’s edition. Inspired by rhythm, tempo, and emotion, Spicher chose white patchouli and reinterpreted it for its airy and ethereal feel, sharing that “Cloud Dancer is such an inspirational name and color with poetic facets. It is a color in motion — not fast, but slow and delicate, carried by the wind, deeply connected to nature. I wanted something white to reveal patchouli in a softer light. something that quiets the noise yet awakens the imagination.”

One hundred years ago, Jacques Guerlain unveiled a new perfume at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes Paris, the same exhibition that introduced the Art Deco movement to the world. His creation was a seductive blend of bergamot, floral notes and tonka, rendered unforgettable by a heady overdose of the molecule ethyl vanillin, housed in a swooping fan-shaped Baccarat glass flacon with a blue stopper. Its name, Shalimar, was inspired by the love story between Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal, for whom he built the Taj Mahal—and it was immediately recognized as both revolutionary and precious. The bottle won first prize at the exhibition, and the fragrance… well, we’re still in thrall to its trailblazing sillage today.

Marking Shalimar’s centenary this month, Guerlain partnered with the newly refurbished Waldorf Astoria New York (which opened in 1935 and is itself an icon of Art Deco design) to stage a very special, limited time only exhibition. Shalimar: 100 Years of Love is an immersive experience that showcases the fragrance’s illustrious history, from its creation in Paris through its wild success in America, tracing the impact it has had across generations and revealing how its radical composition created the fragrance category we now call amber. In film snippets projected on the walls, archival advertisements are juxtaposed with vintage photographs of Shalimar’s celebrity devotees—Rita Hayworth, Brigitte Bardot, Louise Brooks, Frida Kahlo, and more—while visitors are guided on a scent journey through the notes that define the composition, from the jasmine to the unique Guerlain quality of vanilla that, paired with ethyl vanillin, makes the perfume so lush.

On the special evening of November 12th, a group of invited guests were treated to a tour of the exhibition led by Ann-Caroline Prazan, Guerlain’s Head of Art, Culture and Patrimony, followed by a dinner at Maison Barnes, hosted by Guerlain Perfumer and Creative Director of Fragrance, Delphine Jelk. The fabulous fete also celebrated the launch of the Jelk’s new interpretation of the classic, Shalimar L’Essence, which is set to woo a new generation with its decadent vanilla-heavy sillage. “My goal was to retain Shalimar’s soul while giving it a fresh, modern, and almost rock-and-roll edge,” Jelk says. “I sublimated the amber accord by significantly increasing the vanilla and incorporating modern musks. These musks, which didn’t exist in the 1920s when Shalimar was created, bring a sense of comfort and sensuality—less animalic and more in tune with contemporary tastes. I created this version for today’s women, aiming for a scent that is tender, carnal, enveloping, and seductive, much like vanilla itself.”

There are more grand gestures from Guerlain to commemorate the anniversary—including a limited edition 1.5 liter bottle of the original fragrance and a giant Exceptional Art Piece version of the bottle created by Brazilian feather artist Janaïna Milheiro and inspired by the colorful flamboyance of Frida Kahlo. The enthusiasm around these launches and events (Shalimar: 100 Years of Love has been fully booked for the duration of its run) proves that Shalimar has in no way lost its luster at 100 years of age. And it is a reminder that the perfume, which was considered radical, and even racy, in the early 20^th century (there was a saying at the time that there were three things a lady would never do: smoke cigarettes, dance the tango, and wear Shalimar), still smells sensational. “Shalimar is 100 percent sensuality,” says Prazan. It is a perfume for strong women, and the fact that it is still so powerful and meaningful today is a tribute to its timeless modernity.”

TFF celebrates the contributions of Indian and Indian American perfumers and brand founders during one of the most enlightening times of the calendar year, DIWALI. The colors, the scents and the vibrancy of the Indian heritage is captured through the most sumptuous notes and ingredients that make this one of the most festive holidays of the year.

What does the Diwali celebrations mean for you and/or 5 SENS?

Diwali, the Festival of Lights, is one of the most joyous celebrations in Indian culture. It marks the triumph of light over darkness and good over evil, and for my family, it’s a time when we come together to celebrate with diyas (oil lamps), sweets, and so much gratitude for new beginnings. Growing up, Diwali was filled with those overwhelming moments of happiness – the kind that brings you to actual happy tears – surrounded by family, light, and pure joy. As a kid, I used to get so excited about all of the Diwali deliveries we would get and the  gifts that I would get from my parents and grandparents. I now get to see that joy and happiness through the eyes of my three children! 

What notes/scents from childhood have you brought into your fragrances? How have you incorporated your heritage into your brand?

This feeling is exactly what Happy Tears captures: joy, bottled. This warm floral fragrance features Orange Blossom, Arabian Jasmine, White Peach, Mandarin, and Creamy Musk – notes that embody the brightness and warmth of Diwali celebrations. It’s a scent that reminds you to embrace life’s most joyful moments, which feels perfectly aligned with the spirit of the festival.

Happy Tears is also our newest launch (May 2025), and like everything at 5 SENS, it’s clean, vegan, cruelty-free, and planet-positive – values that are important to me as a founder.

What does the Diwali celebrations mean for you and/or D.S. & Durga?

Diwali is a time for families to be at home together. It’s beautiful to be surrounded by all the candles, eat delicious fried foods, and reconnect with an ancient holiday. At DSD we love to have a product that can tell the story of Lord Rama in the forest and to participate in the festive lighting of candles.

What notes/scents from childhood have you brought into your fragrances?

I grew up surrounded by scent. India doesn’t really do “unscented.” Everything has a smell, from temple smoke to spice laden households. David loves many aromas of India as well. We have Durga – a narcotic Tuberose. DS – a yellow lotus attar. Radio Bombay – a sandalwood. Indian oils are a pillar of the fragrance palette. 

How have you incorporated your heritage into your brand?

The name. The old logos. We have many perfumes inspired by India – places, materials, and traditions.

What does the Diwali celebrations mean for you and/or Shalini?

Diwali is the Festival of Lights – it embodies light over darkness, a new beginning.  

I have always enjoyed lighting the little candles all over my home and garden – the candles symbolize bringing in light into your life.  

Celebrations with close friends and family – flowers, sweets, music and Gold. Hugs, kisses and love abound on this magical holiday.

What notes/scents from childhood have you brought into your fragrances?

Our eponymous parfum Shalini is an olfactive painting of my soul by Maurice Roucel of Symrise. Maurice is a dear friend and he desired to create a parfum composed of tuberose, the favorite flower of my childhood and other essences that are an intimate part of my being.

My first scent memory was being massaged by my mother in the purest essential oils as a baby. Classic florals like rose and jasmine, sandalwood, olive and ylang ylang entered the recesses of my soul. Many of these notes are part of our symphonic parfum compositions.

Garlands of Jasmine flowers gracing delicate wrists as floral bracelets were a secret passion in my childhood. 

Sandalwood is considered a sacred wood in India. The warm mesmerizing wood brings sensuality to many of our parfums.

Maurice has a great love for India and he has visited the ancient Oud/ Agarwood trees in Assam. Our Oud for Jardin Nocturne is from these ancient trees.  

How have you incorporated your heritage into your brand?

Fragrance is deeply ingrained in the Indian culture. Flowers and resins are an inherent part of the many moments of life – home, celebrations, marriages and prayer.

I was born in Bombay. My father was a physicist and my mom is a beautiful creative soul. My mom’s garden was a place of serenity and peace for her being. My happiest childhood memories are playing in the garden, chasing butterflies, smelling flowers and picking strawberries. The orange and lemon trees were mesmerizing laden with fragrant white blossoms and I would immerse my little face in their intoxicating fragrance. 

From an early age, my mom introduced me to all the flowers in the garden, the way they grew from bud to full bloom and how their fragrance changed through the passage of the time. 

Tuberoses were my favorite flowers in my mom’s garden. As a child I would sneak into the garden at night so I could inhale their nocturnal beauty under the moonlight. I was drawn to the sensual, voluptuous fragrance that emerged in a small little flower at night.

What characterizes a Daniela Andrier fragrance? Elegance, intelligence, modernity, and that “it factor” that cannot be quantified, yet can always be smelled. As TFF’s 2025 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award honoree, Andrier is someone whose impact on the scent landscape cannot be denied: Over the course of her 40-year career, she has created countless iconic fragrances, including Maison Margiela Untitled (the recipient of TFF’s Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year Award in 2011), Tiffany Eau de Parfum for Tiffany & Co, MYSLF for Yves Saint Laurent, and a host of beautifully expressive scents for Prada, including the wildly influential Infusion d’Iris.

Born in Heidelberg, Germany, Andrier studied philosophy before turning to perfumery, and echoes of that thoughtful, deeply human discipline can still be detected in her approach to fragrance. She honed her craft at the prestigious Roure Perfumery School in Grasse, and spent the early days of her career living in New York City, where she created such remarkable scents as Calvin Klein Contradiction (1997), Emporio Armani She (1998), and Gucci Rush for Men (2000). She has four children with her husband Gilles Andrier, Givaudan CEO, and together they are a true fragrance couple. Indeed, they now share well-deserved TFF accolades. Additionally, Daniela has previously accrued 8 Fragrance Foundation Awards for her creations.

Guests at the June 5th ceremonies at Lincoln Center may sense Andrier’s “it factor” in the air: She has created Lincoln in June, a special ambient floral scent for the evening that welcomes guests as they walk into the sumptuous lobby. Here, she takes a moment to reflect on her career, dreams, successes, and inspirations.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

I think it is a style avoiding clichés of any kind, and the encounter between the “strangeness of déjà vu” and the “astonishing,” newly combined.

What was the first fragrance you bought, or the fragrance you first remember making a big impression on you?

It was Chanel no 19, worn by my aunt who was a very beautiful woman. I was a child and I remember saying to her, “your smell is noble like the one of autumn leaves.”

Do you have a favorite raw material to work with?

Yes, a favorite that keeps changing almost every day.

What accomplishments are you proudest of in your career?

Working in the same company as my husband was challenging. Despite the uncommon setup of working for Givaudan but remotely in my own lab for the last 18 years, I am proud it worked out well and that I could be a successful perfumer.

What has made the enduring relationship that you have had with Prada so unique?

I became the perfumer I am, thanks to Mrs. Prada and Fabio Zambernardi. It opened my fantasy, and it gave me endless inspirations.

What are some of the inspirations that you frequently draw from for your work?

The unexpected combination of colors, the mixture of the rare and the banal, the power of allusion, the importance of playing with the power of evocation, the necessity to avoid cliché, the unnecessary urge of being modern, the intelligence of getting inspiration and depth by being humble and learning where we come from, and by understanding tradition and the importance of culture.

What does it mean to you to be awarded the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award?

I am very honored to receive such a recognition. What really makes me happy with the award are the comments I receive from my peers, clients, family and friends.

What originally made you want to become a perfumer?

As a child I used to mix the fragrances of my mother.

For many years, I thought perfumes were entirely created by fashion designers. I did not know that one could actually become a perfumer. Once I heard someone talking about this profession, it was like an instant revelation. From then on, I knew nothing could stop me from becoming a perfumer.

How did your previous studies in philosophy affect your approach to perfumery?

I chose to study philosophy, because strangely enough, I knew something else was waiting for me and that it would take time to find it. Until I would, I picked up philosophy, because this is what I had really loved in school.

I think I still have this love for reflection, it is part of who I am and therefore of my perfumery.

What scents do you dream of that you have not yet captured?

The Master Perfumer I admire the most is Nature. For example, I would love to put the endless beauty of the smell of lily of the valley in a bottle. And it is true for every smell in nature.

We are getting a little bit closer but we are never as genius as nature. Thankfully, new technologies are providing us with more and more raw materials that help us get better.

If brand founders are the restaurant and a fragrance is the meal then perfumers are the chefs expertly crafting a product for the masses to devour. Days two and three of The Fragrance Foundation Gallery and Pop-Up Shop each showcased a panel anchored by perfumers, the people behind the scents. Attendees on Saturday, March 22 were treated to a discussion about the connection between fragrance and music led by IFF’s Pascal Gaurin while Sunday’s attendees were immersed in the importance of heritage and storytelling with Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux. 

Unlocking the Connections Between Fragrance and Music 

The worlds of music and fragrance collided on day two of TFF’s Gallery and Pop-Up Shop as guests were delighted with a classical music performance by flutist Amir Farsi and harpist Parker Ramsay. Farsi, who is currently pursuing a Bachelor of Science in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing at F.I.T. is also the recipient of The Fragrance Foundation’s Diversity Scholarship. 

“The thought behind this program was to model it after the structure of a fragrance,” says Farsi. 

His program, listed below, evoked a sensorial overlap as he linked certain pieces to notes and accords used to formulate a scent. Farsi likened Reena Esmail’s Zinfandel to notes of cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg while Valerie Coleman’s Danza de la Mariposa reminded him of tropical, waxy florals and the French Salon Set was reminiscent of gauzy florals and diffusive nature of scent. Astor Piazzolla’s Cafe 1930 was thought of as the dry down of a fragrance.

• JS Bach – Sonata in E Flat Major for flute and harp

• Nico Muhly – Excerpt from The Street for solo harp

• Valerie Coleman – Danza de la Mariposa for solo flute

• French salon set: Maurice Ravel – Habanera, Joseph Jongen – Danse Lente, and Gabriel Faure – Morceau de Concours

• Reena Esmail – Zinfandel for solo flute

• Astor Piazzolla – Cafe 1930 for flute and harp

After the musical performance, attendees enjoyed a conversation between Pascal Gaurin, vice president and senior perfumer at IFF and Farsi. While many recognize the scents that Gaurin has brought to life for brands including Eauso Vert, Armani, Givenchy, Henry Rose, Ralph Lauren,  and Tom Ford among others in his 30 years as a perfumer, it’s not widely known that although his career is in perfume, his passion is music. 

“I listen to fragrance more than I smell fragrance,” says Gaurin. “Music is a huge part of my life. I’m not a musician but for me music was my story-teller. As an only child with working parents, music was a way for me to get the stories that I wasn’t getting as a child.”

During the conversation he made references to many connections between the two spaces including common terminology like notes and accords, likening the chorus of a song to the heart notes of a fragrance and even pointed out that the pop-up shop functioned as a Spotify of sorts “This is the Spotify of fragrance,” he says. “Here, you can come to a place that pushes people to discover a universe that some of them are shy about and that allows them to listen to the people behind the brand and discover a fragrance they might not have had access to.” 

Gaurin also emphasized the importance of capturing a person’s attention and tapping into their ability to recollect. “Saying a fragrance smells good is not enough for me,” he says. “It’s all about if you remember it, and with music it’s the same thing.” 

Centering Mexican Heritage and Diverse Storytelling in Fragrance 

Niche fragrance, storytelling, diversity, and the role of the perfumer was the focus of the panel discussion held on Sunday, March 23 between famed Givaudan perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the founders of Eauso Vert, Tanya Gonzalez and Faye Wood and founder of Arquiste, Carlos Huber. With diversity and inclusion as an integral pillar of TFF, those sentiments were woven throughout the afternoon’s engaging discussion. 

“Something that I put out there immediately is I am Mexican,” says Flores-Roux. “I am very proudly Mexican, and I am basically the only Mexican perfumer working in the international arena of fragrance creation.” 

Flores-Roux’s background, heritage and unique lens allow him to connect with places and ingredients on a different level to communicate hyper-specific scent stories. 

“Perfume is language. Perfume is communication,” says Flores-Roux who has 36 years of experience under his belt. It’s a statement that shines through in the fragrances he creates like the aromatic woody scent DOS MIL AÑOS for Eauso Vert which tells the story of the El Árbol del Tule—an ahuehuete tree–which is Nahuatl (the language of the Aztecs) for cypress. 

“We worked with Rodrigo for our second collection, the Herencia collection, which is based on and inspired by Tanya’s Latin heritage,” says Wood. “We aimed to really bring to the forefront Mexican and Latin storytelling through fine fragrance.” 

Also a botanist, working with and understanding and translating the essence of plants comes naturally to Flores-Roux. 

“A lot of the feedback [for DOS MIL AÑOS]  is that there’s a feeling of inhaling and exhaling the way a tree does,” says Gonzalez. “So when people smell it they feel very grounded in the moment. That’s the moment this scent is meant to mimic.”

For Huber’s brand Arquiste, he aims to tell a story of a time and a place through each scent. Born in Mexico City and formerly an architect, Huber calls this experience “olfactive restoration.” 

“When you tell a Latin American story, you talk about ingredients, influences and references from all over, from Asia and Europe to the Americas,” says Huber. “That’s what I wanted to express with Arquiste. I wanted something that had Mexico as its heart but at the same time told stories from all over.” 

Each time he works with Flores-Roux they often discuss what stories should be told with each scent. “What if we could smell what this story is telling us from 200 years ago,” he says. “What if we could take that and put that experience on our skin?” 

This thought process can be experienced in Arquiste’s Adriatic aromatic scent, A Grove by the Sea. For wearers, this fragrance instantly transports them to a small island bursting with the aromas of fig, cypress and olive groves.

As the conversation continued, listeners were able to experience both fragrances as they were spritzed on blotters and passed around, adding to the interactivity of the intimate and immersive session that closed out the final day of TFF’s Fragrance Day Pop-Up Shop.

IFF kicked off the new year of 2025 with a Global Perfumery Summit in Valencia, Spain. A team gathering of over 120 perfumers, scientists, researchers and senior management, hosted by IFF SVP, Scent Innovation, Valery Claude, came together for an occasion ten years in the making, with Erik Fyrwald, IFF’s CEO as guest speaker and participant. The spirit was about connection, celebration, inspiration, and vision set in the beautiful Spanish backdrop of Valencia with a day’s visit to IFF’s largest ingredients Manufacturing sites in Benicarlo, which was also celebrating its 100^th anniversary.  

Beyond gathering perfumers of all generations, junior to master, and leaders from around the globe, the vibration of energy, excitement and passion was felt by all and brought back as they returned home, still elated by the many celebrations, creative team activities all set in the beautiful Spanish setting. The workshops and team discussions revolved on creation, and accelerating the IFF innovation agenda. This included one of the industry’s hottest topics recently, AI.  

 One thing is clear hearing back from the perfumers: The connections made over this time together left a resounding impression on each of them. Meeting face to face and spending time together, reconnecting with colleagues from around the world, sharing common challenges, all led to paving the path forward for innovation. Each perfumer sees the rapid pace of change in  perfumery. This summit was an occasion to reinforce IFF’s commitment to their artists of perfumery. It also shone a light on their outstanding researchers, chemists, agronomists, and more, the visionaries and innovators who invent our molecules and natural extracts, at the heart of the art of perfumery today and tomorrow. 

What did you learn about the ways in which AI might be most applicable to perfumery? 

“As a perfumer at IFF for many decades now, I love how our AI enabled tools, like Scentchat™, give us direct access to consumers’ perception of ingredients and fragrances: that is invaluable. It gives us a starting point and information that can help to accelerate our creative process as we then build this understanding into the fragrances we create.”  Laurent le Guernec, VP Perfumer 

What was the most valuable takeaway from the conference for you personally?  

“This is my first perfumer summit and experiencing the personal connection with the perfumers around the world was immeasurable. We work in a fast-paced environment and to stop and connect with our perfumery peers who understand our day- to- day work was unforgettable. It has immediately impacted how I create moving forward.” Victor Bartash, Junior Perfumer 

What was your favorite moment?  

“After the day at Benicarlo, we were amazed and incredibly inspired by the magnitude of work, research, and advancements that our scientists, who we now refer to as Artists of Molecules, are facing every day. Their creativity and passion astounded us and left us all with the highest level of respect for their brilliance that goes into our creations. On the final evening of the summit, we all wanted to show our gratitude and admiration with a standing ovation for them and a loud celebration of joy and recognition.” Patty Hidalgo, VP Perfumer

The contributions and impact of the Hispanic and Latin American communities to global culture are countless. While one month is never enough to truly appreciate and salute the people, places, and rich legacy, TFF embraces the opportunity to celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month with a snapshot of words of inspiration and reflections from founders and perfumers.

A passionate perfumer who grew up between San Francisco and Jalisco, Mexico Ashley blends her cultural heritage with traditional French perfumery, drawing inspiration from her surroundings to create unique, story-driven fragrances.

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations?

My heritage plays a pivotal role in shaping my fragrance creations. As a kid growing up in San Francisco, my backyard was filled with the intoxicating aroma of angel’s trumpets and the spicy, aromatic scent of eucalyptus pods. These memories are deeply embedded in my olfactory palette.

Conversely, my summers in San Buenaventura, Jalisco (Mexico), introduced me to a contrasting olfactory world—one filled with the warm, dry air of the ranch, the rich scent of leather from cowhide chairs, and the sweetness of tropical fruits like guava and mango. This juxtaposition of scents from two distinct environments fuels my creativity, allowing me to blend these influences into my work. I strive to incorporate these underrepresented olfactory elements into my fragrances, creating a narrative that honors both my Mexican-Caribbean roots and the traditional French perfumery techniques I have studied.

Are there particular ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate to when you need to be inspired?

Absolutely! Inspiration for me comes from many directions. In terms of natural raw materials, I find myself drawn to rosewater natsource, which is upcycled and sustainable—a concept I’m deeply passionate about. I also love working with various types of vanilla and sandalwood, as they evoke such rich, personal memories and emotions.

Beyond ingredients, fashion has always been a significant source of creativity for me. I’m especially inspired by the work of designers like Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pharrell Williams. Their runway shows, with their bold aesthetics and compelling narratives, often spark new ideas for my fragrance storytelling. Ultimately, I believe that inspiration can be found in every corner of life, and I remain open to all the scents, experiences, and artistic expressions the world has to offer.

As a child, Lisa, influenced by her French and Mexican cultures, had an insatiable curiosity for the world of perfume that she enriched with multiple readings and a vast collection of miniatures that form her first olfactory library, until she expressed the desire to become a perfumer at the age of ten. She studied at MANE Perfumery School in 2014 and joined Mane Mexico in 2017, where she works as a Regional Perfumer Latam.

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations and brand story?

Mexico is a country full of contrasts, exuberance, profusion, paradoxes; it certainly influenced me in my way of creating, trying surprising associations. I attach great importance to details, as Mexican baroque influenced me in this way. Latam is also cheerful, vibrant, colorful. I like to translate that spirit in my fragrances, particularly by working on fruity notes, as natural as possible.

Are there particular ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate to when you need to be inspired?

Being a perfumer has allowed me to condense my love of nature, art, travel and storytelling. I’m deeply moved by architecture and design; I consider perfume an architectural object, with its purpose, its functionality, and its soul. When I need to take inspiration, I always come back to Luis Barragán’s houses, which are havens and a deep source of calm and beauty inside Mexico City’s chaos. Among his work, the influence of light and colors to change the mood and the emotions, the use of local raw materials as the volcanic stone to bring new textures resonates with my approach when creating a perfume. I also admire the work of Oscar Niemeyer, Alexander Girard, Bouroullec brothers, as well as architectural creations of fashion designers as Hussein Chalayan, Iris Van Herpen or André Courrèges.

Another constant inspiration is certainly gardens, especially botanical gardens. Their harmony lies on how they are organized, on how they invite us to daydream, their atmosphere, the plants and flowers that were chosen to be combined. Concerning specific ingredients, there are two natives of this continent that I use a lot: Cardamom for its vibrancy and Tonka bean for its richness.

The contributions and impact of the Hispanic and Latin American communities to global culture are countless. While one month is never enough to truly appreciate and salute the people, places and rich legacy, TFF embraces the opportunity to celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month with a snapshot of words of inspiration and reflections from founders and perfumers.

Female and Latin-founded, EAUSO VERT is the conscious-luxury vision of beauty industry veterans Tanya Gonzalez and Faye Harris.

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations and brand story?

There are so many layers and nuances to each person’s Latin experience, mine being heavily rooted in my upbringing as a first-generation Mexican American. Storytelling has always played an important role in how we connect with our heritage. My grandmother’s anecdotes relating to her life in Mexico have influenced my own love of storytelling and everything that I create, hoping to connect with others by adding texture to experiences through scent, music, writing and more.

The vibrancy of my culture – family visiting, food cooking, music playing – has always served as a natural source of inspiration for me when developing scent. I never begin an idea for a scent without first exploring the music that could potentially serve as the soundtrack for that particular fragrance. It stems from the love that my parents had of music and its constant presence within our home.

Hispanic Heritage Month is a special moment for the brand as many are still becoming aware of our Latin heritage. We launched a Latin-inspired collection by the name of HERENCIA (“HERITAGE”), giving us the opportunity to showcase some of the traditions and ingredients pioneered by Latino communities. The fragrance industry as a whole has yet to fully reflect the cultural richness and vibrancy of our community, so our latest collection is our way of driving greater representation in a space not having much Latin influence.

Are there particular ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate to when you need to be inspired? 

Mexico has been such a huge source of inspiration for me, specifically the region where my grandmother grew up, San Luis Potosí. Whether it be through the food, music or environment, I find myself at my happiest when surrounded by the language and people of Mexico. Many of our newer scents reflect this as well – from Capulin to Zapote Negro, we’ve woven the rich tapestry of my homeland into our fragrances.  My hope is that by developing fragrances inspired by my own culture, more will feel compelled to do the same.

A Colombian perfumer known for her bold and evolving fragrances, Adriana Medina blends artistry and science to create powerful scents that reflect her vibrant personality and culture. 

Adriana’s notable creations: 

• LANCÔME Idôle
• VICTORIA’S SECRET Bombshell
• MARC JACOBS Daisy Wild
• HOUSE OF BŌ Oro Verde

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations?

My Hispanic heritage influences my fragrance creations in many ways from what I create; I want people to be joyful and enjoy the fragrance as much as I do. I want to change people’s mood for the day or feel good about themselves. I want to be able to bring back a beautiful memory or transport them to a special place. That is the magic of fragrance; you can change someone’s life immediately. My fragrances are a reflection of my personality, my culture, and my upbringing. I love to add a dash of positivity, optimism, and good energy in what I do. And also, I love to surprise them!

Are there particular ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate to when you need to be inspired?

Music is definitely my muse. I love to play music on my way to work, and in my office I am always playing music, which puts me in a groovy mood to create and those that know me know I have a playlist quite unique, all genres for sure. I love design and architecture and truly admire the professional work of those in that field. I love designs by Santiago Calatrava, Zaha Hadid, and the one and only Antoni Gaudi. Botero is one of my favorite sculptors. I love fashion; I inherited that passion from my grandmother, who came to this country and was a seamstress for many years. She used to make my clothes when I was younger, and we would spend the weekends shopping for textiles, designing clothes, and making pants, dresses, shirts, and coats. I got the sense of style from her, for sure. She has always been my source of inspiration. I am inspired by Colombia, our geographic diversity, and our people. Each region is very different, but we share the love for our country. Ask any Colombian and we are all very proud of where we come from.

Originally from Toledo, Spain, Elena was immersed in different art forms since her childhood, having always seen creativity as the perfect way to discover the world. It was during her early years at the University while studying to become a pharmacist that she discovered perfumery. Upon receiving her diploma, she decided to follow her dream to become a perfumer by joining ISIPCA perfumery school in 2014 followed by joining Robertet’s school in 2020 where she soon started her career in Grasse and joined the New York Robertet team in 2023.

Elena’s notable creations:

• ZARA HOME Ombre Musc Collection
• NATURAPATHICA Chill Alchemy Reed Diffuser

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations?

Born and raised in Toledo, Spain, scent is infused within our culture. A favorite “scent memory” was during Holy Week, where we would decorate the streets with wild Thyme and Rosemary.  The scent was incredible!  I was also very influenced by the cistus labdanum and the orange flowers in Andalucia.  All those scents deeply inspired me, and I love to work with them in my creations today.

Are there particular ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate to when you need to be inspired?

Travel is my main source of inspiration and more specifically, discovering the local cuisines of every place I visit. Also, I’ve now been living in New York for over a year, and I am very inspired by the diversity and cultural richness of the city!

 Carlos Viñals is a Cuban-American is known for his expertise in crafting faceted, memorable fragrances. With a passion for both his heritage and the art of perfumery, he has contributed to the creation of iconic scents for global brands.

Carlos’ Notable Creations:

• MIND GAMES Gambit 
• VICTORIA’S SECRET Bare
• ETERNITY FOR MEN  Reflections  
• CAROLINA HERRERA 212 VIP Men 

How has your heritage influenced and inspired your fragrance creations and brand story?

 As a Latino, much of my inspiration comes from the way I was raised. My Cuban parents instilled in me a deep passion for life, a commitment to sharing happiness with others, and an openness to embracing new experiences.

Are there any ingredients or locations or other cultural inspirations that you gravitate towards when you need to be inspired? 

Absolutely, and often! I draw deeply from my Latin heritage when I’m seeking that extra impact or hook in a fragrance. For instance, I turn to the rhythms of Latin music when I want to infuse vibrant energy and movement into the top notes. Gaudí’s visionary architecture inspires me when I’m aiming for something unconventional and disruptive, while my favorite Spanish desserts—Flan and Dulce de Leche—provide the perfect source of sweet, creamy indulgence when I want to evoke irresistible addiction.

“I am honored to have been recognized by The Fragrance Foundation as this year’s Lifetime Achievement Perfumer. It’s the greatest joy of my life, as well as my passion, to create fragrances that take you on a personal journey.”

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud was born in Grasse into something of a fragrance dynasty—his father and grandfather were master perfumers, and his mother worked for legendary master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska—but it was not a given that he would become a scent creator himself. “When at eight years old, I told my father that I wanted to be a perfumer, he told me that I would have to be prepared to work very hard, and that I would need to have true passion in order to succeed,” he says. Every night, his father would arrange blotters scented with raw materials on his desk, and each morning young Cavallier-Belletrud would sniff them and take notes. “It was like a game,” he says, “but it helped me, step by step, learn the language of perfume.”

When Cavallier-Belletrud heard that he had been awarded TFF Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, he says, his first thought was how thrilled his parents would be. “My mother passed away a few months ago, and so I could not help but feel nostalgia. I owe everything I am to my parents, especially in terms of being free as a creator. As the small guy I was when I started in this business and the small guy I am today, I would never have dreamed of such an honor. And now, having my daughter—who is also a perfumer—with me, I feel very proud to show her that everything is possible in life.”

Over the course of his storied career, Cavallier-Belletrud has created acclaimed fragrances for the likes of Christian Dior, Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, and Lancôme. Now with LVMH, he has been the in-house perfumer for Louis Vuitton since 2012 and has been for almost 30 years the creator behind many of Bvlgari’s most beloved fragrances, rom the iconic Pour Homme in 1995, to BVLGARI LE GEMME and the BVLGARI ALLEGRA collection more recently. When we speak, Cavallier-Belletrud is in what he calls his “smelling room” at Les Fontaines Parfumées in Grasse. With blotters scattered across his desk and gentle light streaming through the windows, he reflects upon his career, his legacy, and a few of his favorite things.

Does it feel especially significant for you to be awarded Lifetime Achievement Perfumer in New York?

Yes, I am so proud that this award is coming from the US. I have loved the United States forever and I have worked with quite a lot of American perfumers and with a lot of American brands, and I have always been welcomed. Even when I was 20, 24 years old, I was welcomed as a perfumer. At that time in France I was perceived as a very young guy and certainly not yet a perfumer. So I’ve seen the difference between the two, and working in the US has always been, for me something unique. 

How did growing up in a family so connected to the world of perfume shape you as a child?

I come from an era when children were quiet at lunch and dinner, and listened to our parents’ conversation. They spoke in May about the quality of the rose flowers, or about the beauty of the scent of the jasmine. I remember my father speaking about Japanese perfumes after coming back from two months of traveling through Japan. It was evident that this world was my world, even if I didn’t recognize that at that time. My childhood in Grasse was very happy. I was very focused on discovering things. I developed lot of curiosity about things because it wasn’t like today when you can find everything on Google—you had to explore things for yourself. I was curious about why the jasmine bloomed only three months a year or the rose only three weeks a year. I was always very connected to nature.

What is it like for you to work with your daughter, Camille, as a perfumer?

She is the first woman in the family to become a perfumer in 500 years, so… no pressure! When she was about 12 years old, she came to my mother and said, ‘I want to do what papa is doing.’ We discussed it and I said, we can start the same way I started with my father: smelling raw materials, so that you can understand that perfumery is more than just ingredients, it is also emotions. My job was to teach her how to memorize raw materials and how to approach projects, but also to help her express her creative personality as a woman. This job is a lot of work, a lot of commitment, and you need a lot of love for others and for the brands you are working with. You will sometimes be surrounded by doubts, but you will always return to enthusiasm and positivity. When I am depressed, I smell jasmine from Grasse or bergamot from Italy, and I recover my joy.

You are known for your trailblazing use of the ingredient Calone. When you first used it, did you suspect it would make such a splash in the perfume world?

My story with Calone goes very far back. When I was young, working with my father, I went to get an ingredient out of the fridge and the door was stuck. I pulled very dynamically and some of the bottles fell down and spilled. Immediately this scent of freshness came to me that was  really incredible. I looked at the bottle, and it said Calone—which was a material I did not know.

The next day, the floor still smelled amazingly fresh. When my father came into the lab he said, ‘Who is the idiot who used such a powerful ingredient?’ That was around 1979. Over the years, I forgot this material, until I began working on L’Eau de Issey in the early 1990s. The brief was: If water had a smell, what would it be? Immediately I remembered this scent, Calone, in the laboratory. I started the project with Calone, surrounded it with flowers and woods, and three weeks later it was done. Frankly, I did not expect such success. And it’s good because if you are trying to create trend, it will never happen. But I did know that something was happening, because before the launch my wife wore the fragrance out to dinner in Paris, and a couple who had been staring at us approached and said, ‘Can you tell us the name of your perfume? Because since you arrived there has been a scent in the room that is fantastic, and like nothing else we have ever smelled.”

What do you think defines a truly great perfume?

It’s like people: Character makes you unforgettable. All the great successes have unique personalities. You recognize them everywhere. Perfume is not a commodity. It is more than an accessory. It translates a very secret part of your personality, connecting with your childhood, with your inner self, with who you are. That is why it must have personality itself to be great.

What do you like to do when you are not working?

I love to be at home, because I have a huge garden and I love to connect to nature. But I also love to travel, and I love to visit cities and see what artists are doing. I love to have a good meal with friends. I enjoy beauty and I celebrate the beauty of life. It is important to remember what a miracle it is.

I also love to shop, which is perhaps unusual for a man. I can spend a whole day shopping. I do it frequently. I enjoy going to new stores and seeing different concepts. I like the classic things and the very disruptive things. For me it’s really a pleasure just to look and to try products. It’s all about discovery.

What would your perfect day involve?

I have many perfect days here in Grasse. I wake at quarter to five the morning. The perfect day is in spring or in summer, having coffee in my garden, looking at the Bay of Cannes and waiting for the sunrise. I love all the scents of the garden, in every season. Today it’s raining and yesterday it was warm, so there is a scent in the air of earthy notes, but also roots, leaves, and the orange flowers that are blooming. I believe the best perfumer in the world is the wind, because it carries these fantastic scents—and it is always different.

Then I take care of my dogs—I have three—spend time with my wife, and go to the office. To get there I drive a special road where you have all the views of the French Riviera, with mountains and blue sky. It is the perfect environment for inspiration. At the office we start with a half day of smelling the work we have done the day before, then have a big lunch in the garden if the weather is good. In the afternoon there is more smelling, more work, more meetings and calls. On a perfect day I have a lot of energy and a lot of ideas and I love this because ideas bring more ideas. What I really love is to create. I wake in the morning and look at the sea and dream of many things and tell myself that whatever I do, I will start with a hope of making something good.

Food & Fragrance, an Immersive Dinner Experience

As a delightful and delectable countdown to Fragrance Day™, TFF hosted a special dinner event the first week of March, a first for the Foundation, that reimagined Hav & Mar, Marcus Samuelsson’s foodie hotspot, into a fragrance-forward space for one night only. Eight ingredients, ten perfumers, and an award-winning emerging female chef who shares TFF’s passion for sustainability became the centerpiece of a celebration of raw ingredients that touch our lives from the foods we eat to the scents we wear. Creating a journey of olfactory and taste exploration, scents of fresh florals, fruits and foods filled the air, as TFF reset the table with the trending notes of the season and the perfumers from our member fragrance houses.

At the heart of any fragrance or dish, is the perfumer who always finds the right notes to evoke an emotional connection and the chef who finds just the right ingredients to entice the senses. As March signals the start of Spring, the time was ripe for a collaborative endeavor that celebrated the source of their creative inspiration, the delicious ingredients found in both fragrance and food. From the fragrance house to the kitchen, TFF with Executive Chef Fariyal Abdullahi of Hav & Mar, created an immersive experience that touched and tempted the senses from taste to scent, spotlighting the star ingredients of the Spring season.

The essence of the season’s essential ingredients of Banana, Coconut, Ginger, Orange, Lemon, Mango, Strawberry, and Vanilla shared in cuisine and fragrance creations were captured for an elevated multi-sensory experience pairing food and fragrance.

The bar was transformed into an exhibition space for the fragrances that married their connection to the ingredient. From Marc Jacobs banana inspired Daisy Wild Eau de Parfum to the strawberry based Gingham Gorgeous by Bath & Body Works and Coach’s Love Eau de Parfum, the array of fruit and floral forward fragrances was extensive. Both LoveShackFancy and Givenchy, sweet on coconut, infused the ingredient into Forever in Love Eau de Parfum and Irresistible Very Floral, respectively. The essence of orange burst through in Costa Brazil’s Aroma and Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl Blush Elixir while mango emerged in Nectarine Petal Eau de Parfum by Clean Beauty Collective H2Eau Collection. Lemon zests Byredo’s Animalique Eau de Parfum. Ginger spices Tumi’s Awaken Distilled Extrait de Parfum. Vanilla notes continued on a high note into the season with Chris Collins’ Long Kiss Goodnight, Victoria’s Secret Bare Vanilla Cashmere Eau de Parfum, and Sol de Janiero’s Cheirosa 59.

The sit-down dinner for the creators, fragrance enthusiasts, and beauty editors, all who revel in the transportive and emotive connection to fragrance, came together to break bread and celebrate the season’s ingredients. The curated menu spotlighted the fundamental food ingredients that have become the foundation for many iconic fragrances and signature scents.

Tables filled with Jacques Huclier, Adriana Medina and Linda Song of Givaudan, Mathilde Bijaoui and Ugo Charron of Mane, Jérôme Epinette of Robertet, and Catherine Selig of Takasago, and Honorine Blanc, Gabriela Chelariu and Frank Voelkl of DSM-Firmenich, who enjoyed the flavorful cuisine and captivated the audience as they spoke to the power of connection between their featured fragrances and their culinary counterparts, as well as the common bond of sustainability.

The multi-course menu of global pairings included a strawberry salad, snapper wrapped in banana leaves, coconut-infused curry rice, and ginger-spiced meatballs capped by vanilla cream puffs, the perfect accompaniments to the refreshingly lighter fare of the season. As the gourmand trend shows no signs of slowing down, the blending of food and fragrance was a festive way to celebrate the artisanship of perfumery and the craft of culinary arts with an eclectic, sustainably sourced cuisine, created by Chef Abdullahi as it paid homage to her Ethiopian heritage. Complementing the cuisine was a curated wine list featuring BIPOC and women producers.

It was a moment for fragrance lovers to savor as media including Allure, Ebony, Fashionista, GQ, Glamour, Good Housekeeping, Harlem News, The Zoe Report, Town & Country, The Wall Street Journal, WWD, and many others along with fragrance enthusiasts and influencers including Fat Mascara and The Perfume Room, as well as fashion and food friends of TFF from Francisco Costa, Rebecca Moses and Melba Wilson joined the festive dining experience.

This month marked the third annual webinar dedicated to the mission of #FragranceForwardTFF, which launched in Fall 2021. This year’s panel, Intentional Inclusivity: The Value of Diverse Perspectives, was moderated by Emmy Award-winning broadcaster and NY-1 Noticias Weekend Anchor Birmania Rios, and included Arquiste Creator and Perfumer Carlos Huber, Givaudan perfumer Adriana Medina, and Diptyque Director of Marketing Eduardo Valadez. Together, the group discussed a variety of topics ranging from how important it is to ensure that people from all backgrounds have access to information, inspiration, and education about the fragrance industry, how important it is to see the individuality in every consumer, and how inclusivity can enliven not only the fragrance business the but fragrances themselves. For this edition of Accords, the panelists dive deeper into the importance of DEI, and how the industry can best support #FragranceForwardTFF.

What has your unique background brought to your career and the way that you approach & appreciate fragrance?

I think coming from a multicultural background has made me more open and interested in representing different cultural voices. I have Jewish roots that originated in places like Poland, Lithuania, Greece and Turkey, and my family emigrated to Mexico in the 1920s. They became very proud Mexicans, grateful for a new life in the New World. I’ve been extremely fortunate- thanks to the opportunities and education our life in Mexico afforded us, I’ve been able to travel the world freely, choosing to settle in New York City not because of any persecution or struggles back home, but because I’ve been raised to see myself as a citizen of the world. It’s made me curious about the world in general, without prejudice. As a fragrance developer, it made me want to explore and develop perfumes and stories from around the world that exemplify how we’re all connected: via our love of scent, cultural ties, trade, immigration. I like stories that connect us. Perfumes are compositions that bring different things together, like people, and sometimes the most beautiful ones are all about this contrast.

What are some of the ways that you believe that an inclusive approach most benefits a fragrance story or a brand as a whole?

Because we need to tell more than one side of the story. I’m a minority in more ways than one. I’m Jewish, Mexican and gay, and all of this makes me who I am. Life and people are diverse and complex. When you listen to other points of view it makes you a better leader, a better fragrance developer. You understand that people will have different experiences with your scents, so by bringing them into the fold, you’re creating a more rounded product.

What are the things to consider in order to ensure an authentic dialogue between consumer and brand?

Respect and kindness above all. We must remember that the consumer is a real person, but behind the “brand” you also have real people, working hard, trying to do their best. Always be respectful and treat people the way you would like to be treated.

How can you and members of TFF best contribute to #FragranceForwardTFF?

Support independent brands, look beyond the mass market. Explore the niche perfume shops and websites that support small brands and explore our scents. 

What has your unique background brought to your career and the way that you approach & appreciate fragrance?

I come from Colombia, a country full of passion, resilience and positivity. All of these qualities were essential in becoming a perfumer. In fact, I put them into action every day within my work—I approach every creation as a new adventure.

Each brief is quite unique so I always keep in mind what my fragrance is going to communicate and how the end consumer is going to feel.

What are some of the ways that you believe that an inclusive approach most benefits a fragrance story or a brand as a whole?

It’s important to consider the general consumer; in the USA, we are a mix of different cultures where hispanics are taking a major role in fragrance purchasing. We’ve been wearing fragrance since we were babies, it’s are part of our culture! The more you know about a specific culture, the more you can provide to them, attract them and make them connect with your brand.

What are the things to consider in order to ensure an authentic dialogue between consumer and brand?

Consumers want brands that are a reflection of their diverse desires and needs. Ensuring authentic communication with a consumer is about putting them first. In doing so, being transparent and consistent is critical in creating trust and enhancing credibility.

How can you and members of TFF best contribute to #FragranceForwardTFF?

As an industry, we need to continue to prioritize an ecosystem of diversity through an inclusive approach which includes everything from representation, education to communication.

What has your unique background brought to your career and the way that you approach & appreciate fragrance?

Scent has been an influential and integral part of my Mexican heritage, a culture which is passionate for experiencing everyday life through the senses. Since birth, having been immersed in the rich and diverse, multi-sensorial cultural experiences, provided this innate passion that I wanted to explore and pursue. This ultimately propelled me to a career in the beauty and fragrance industry. I continue to be fascinated by the idea that fragrance can allow you to express a feeling and a sensation.

What are some of the ways that you believe that an inclusive approach most benefits a fragrance story or a brand as a whole?

Inclusivity is an essential element to any fragrance story. We need to tap into more than just the visual messages that bring a fragrance to life, we can’t neglect the need to explore the various cultural aspects that allow everyone to feel connected, heard and seen within the story.

What are the things to consider in order to ensure an authentic dialogue between consumer and brand?

To ensure the conversations are meaningful, and engaged on a deeper level, authenticity is fundamental. Our conversations must have resonance and relevance. Consumers must feel a sense of trust in a brand to connect and engage for the years to come.

How can you and members of TFF best contribute to #FragranceForwardTFF?

I believe this is very simple, although not always easy—we need to continue to have conversations rather big or small at all levels. We need to keep the dialogue as a continuum if we want to see change in our industry. We need to actively look for varied perspectives that will not only enrich our industry and the people who work in it.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?  

I traveled to Costa Rica and it’s so rich in terms of nature and feelings of freedom and exploration. I was particularly inspired by the coffee plantation I visited. I had the chance to smell and experience coffee flowers for the first time. As soon as I smelled them, I wanted to bring in Symrise’s Instaessence® technology to precisely capture this fresh, delicate scent  and Costa Rica is filled with lush and wonderful landscapes. I was horseback riding and came upon a tree standing in the middle of the sea. It happens at certain times of day with the tide and it was very poetic. This gave me the idea to work around a 100% biodegradable and renewable woody note we have at Symrise called SympepTM. It’s made from Guaiac wood oil and has a soft driftwood facet that would be at the center of my creation, like the tree in the middle of the sea.  

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?  

I love the creation and conceptual process. It’s amazing to experience moments, feelings, places and sensations in everyday life and then be tasked to capture and bottle them. To be able to re-experience that feeling or place in time whenever you wear a fragrance is so powerful. In my daily work, I love the challenge of adapting to an ever-changing customer demand. Our industry is in constant movement, and I like the stimulation and energy that it brings to me.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you? 

This summer I traveled to two of my favorite beach destinations, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina and Wildwood Crest, New Jersey.  I am always inspired by the beach.  The salty ocean breeze is one of my favorite scents.  When this smell hits me, I am instantly relaxed and in vacation mode.  I love working on fragrances where I can incorporate some of these salty, fresh, watery notes.

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance? 

As a perfumer, I really love recreating scents from my everyday experiences, the small yet special moments of my daily life. These fragrances are my scent memories, and I enjoy recreating an impression of a beautiful walk I’ve taken on the beach or the scent of baking a delicious apple pie.  When I smell these fragrances, I am taken back to that exact moment. 

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall? 

It is fun to blur the seasons to find new creative nuances in my work.  For fall, I am using some of the salty, watery notes that remind me of the beach and adding them to a traditional fall fragrance.  I am inspired by what the beach smells like in the fall.  A cool and crisp, outdoorsy feeling with the salty ocean air in the background.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?

Every year I go to Greece and from an olfactive standpoint the islands are packed with inspiration – from fig trees to aromatic herbs like thyme, rosemary, immortelle. Even the olive oil smells and tastes better in Greece. But, as odd as it may sound, I am most inspired by my trips to the pharmacy. I love exploring local brands, which are often harder and more expensive to find in the US. I love how they market local ingredients like yogurt or mastic into their products. So when I come back to work I think naturally these inspirations stick with me as a subconscious way of extending my vacation – because who wouldn’t want to stay in Greece!

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?

The same thing that excited me when I first started. Perfumery is about being able to play and have fun. This is usually in the evening after most people have left for the day. It’s also when I turn the music up on my Beats speaker. I guess you can call this my “playtime”. Every artist needs their playtime. It’s when I get most creative and imaginative. But I guess the real excitement comes the next day when I smell what I created the day before. It can feel like Christmas morning.

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall?

Yes actually. I have been working on this Brown butter popcorn accord. Not sure how I will develop it yet, but I love the possibilities it brings.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?

I was able to spend time in both Miami and Utah this summer. While in Florida, I enjoyed Cuban coffee and the enchanting smell of wild lilies. The vast desert landscapes out West provided mineral, earthy and sundrenched inspirations. I found the life that thrives in the desert particularly captivating as well.

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?

I feel like the consumer is willing to take more risks; they’re open to being more adventurous – which allows for creative explorations in fragrance and the use of new technologies.

This, along with Gen Z’s approach to fragrance and how they relate in quite a different way. They’re searching for authenticity, they’re extremely knowledgeable about ingredients and they want to express their uniqueness through fragrance. Through Givaudan’s new “What is love?” program, we explore just that—this generation’s olfactive exploration through the prism of love and seduction. We’ve been able to translate Gen Z’s desire for authenticity and caring love into never-before-smelled fragrance compositions.

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall?

I’m eager to pursue ideas of this ‘Farm to Fragrance’ evolution—playful, yet refined + fresh, garden-inspired expressions—in fragrance, along with more sacred and spiritual themes that lean deeper into cultural history and rituals.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?

When visiting the Canadian Rockies in Banff, Yoho National Parks, and Maine Acadia National Park I was initially quite surprised and a bit disappointed to be surrounded by so many visitors. While this at first made it harder to enjoy the beauty of nature, it ultimately compelled me to take several unbeaten paths which transported me to endless green in the middle of majestic and beautiful wet forests. Reconnecting to the raw scents, sensations and feelings brought me back to what I love about fragrances and natural materials. This vast portfolio of wet stones, cold rivers, crumpled leaves, sun-heated soil is something that I’m now exploring in my creations, trying to immerse you in the scents of the blissful outdoors.

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?

There’s a “nouvelle vague” happening where some new up & comers are trying to define a new perfumery, around new accords and centered around beautiful naturals. In a time where clients and consumers are becoming more and more educated about these, it’s exciting to be a part of defining what the future of scents might be. In such busy times, it gives us the opportunity to stop for a minute, to rethink the way we reformulate and really go back to the materials themselves.

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall?

Literal notes such as vegetables, fruits or more conceptual ones like petrichor and wet soils accords seem to be in favor at the moment and this is something I love working on and developing. Ingredients that were in fragrances for decades are also finally remerging . For example, carrot is extremely interesting and I’m working on developing an authentic accord around this scent. Another trend ongoing is the revival of 80s & 90s fragrance accords, with strong identifiable signatures, and reimagining these with a modern twist — like carrot — makes it unusual and fun, unexpected but also olfactively interesting and pertinent. 

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?

This summer I spent time in Barcelona, where I represented Cosmo International Fragrances in the Mouillette D’Argent International Perfumery Competition with my perfume inspired by the Mediterranean sun. What inspired me most when traveling were the aromas of local flora, unique cuisines, the climate, and the cultural landscape of the Mediterranean. Catalonia has always stimulated my senses in a never-ending way; the saline breeze, wild herbs and aromatic resinous pines combine with warm, dry earth and a relaxed, bright atmosphere that eases the mind and warrants artistic expression.

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?

What motivates and excites me most about perfumery is witnessing the progression involved in developing a tangible finished creation that started from nothing more than an idea. Nothing is more satisfying to me than that first sniff of each new trial and watching your unique personal vision materialize with every addition or modification of the formula. This eternal pursuit of progress has me waking up excited every day to dream, experiment, and create.

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall?

Cosmo International Fragrances has several exciting natural extracts with unique characteristics available in our palette. As the cooler weather comes around, I find myself drawn to warm, sweet, and comforting scents with character that make you feel bundled up and embraced. I have recently enjoyed experimenting with Osmanthus Craftivity, Myrtle Inca Oil Peru, and Ginger CO2 Peru, which bring a fresh, unique perspective to the classic wintery themes of spices, dark fruits, and other gourmand directions. Being able to continually explore new directions on familiar themes and experimenting with entirely new ideas and unique materials makes every day on the job an adventure.

How did your travels or experiences this summer inspire you?

This summer I moved from Paris to New York. I feel this city is a new playground where all my senses are stimulated. Inspiration is at every corner – a new pastry, the smell of coffee in the street – it is just all so different from France. It’s amazing how the places we grow up influence our olfactory tastes. I also traveled to California to go surfing this summer and I’m starting to become obsessed by the mix between the salty air of the sea, the mineral sand, the sunscreen and the surf wax infused by coconut that I used. This is something I want to recreate in a fragrance creation.

What currently excites you most about working in fragrance?

What I like about this work is that creativity comes from curiosity. I love to make a parallel between different art forms and try to apply what I discovered into perfumery.

For example, I went to see this building “couvent de la Tourette” in France, built by the architect Le Corbusier. He’s famous for his work with concrete and the way he played with the light. The simplicity, the colors, and the shapes he used give a majestic and modern impression. At that time, it was really avant-garde and groundbreaking.

After visiting it, I tried to apply what I perceived there into my way of creating. Trying to be simpler and finding ingredients that bring light and contrast because an ingredient surrounded by a good environment can express itself at its full potential.

The weather becoming chilly brings me to explore warmer notes. I’m really attracted to palo santo. I feel it’s really interesting because it has the contrast I was talking about. It’s a really creamy wood, dark and sensual with a slightly aromatic note that brings the contrast to the wood. I definitely want to integrate this smell in one of my next creations.

Are there any specific notes or ideas for fragrances that you are especially interested in exploring this fall?

As the weather becomes chillier, I begin to explore warmer notes. I’m really attracted to palo santo for example, because it’s a creamy wood, dark and sensual with a slightly aromatic note that brings an interesting contrast.

Sniff just a few of the fragrances IFF Master Perfumer Anne Flipo has composed, and you’ll immediately detect a bold, questioning, and sensitive personality behind them. A very thoughtful perfumer, Flipo is known for her quiet rigor—including a dedication to hand-written formulas—and for her outsize talent and expertise. Over the course of her now 35-year career, Flipo has created sensational scents for houses big and small, from history-making blockbusters such as Lancôme La Vie Est Belle to vibrant masterstrokes such as Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle to nuanced niche works such as L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons. Whether working alone or collaboratively, on feminine, masculine, or universal scents, Flipo’s process and goals are constant, and an inspiration for all who encounter her—and her fragrances. “My quest remains the same,” she says. “Signature, impact, pleasure!”

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I grew up in the North of France, surrounded by a wonderful garden kept by a gardener, full of flowers year round. Maybe it was that garden, or my father working in sugar, or my grandmother who lived in Laon and who excelled in the art of entertaining, the art of living, cooking: When it was time for me to choose what I was going to study, I opted for the ISIP, the French perfumery school, which offered a three-year program in flavoring, cosmetics, and fragrance, against the wishes of my parents, who wanted me to prepare the entrance exams for engineering schools.

What are the earliest scents or fragrances you can recall?

From that life growing up in the North of France, I vividly recall the flowerbeds, the orchards, the smell of tennis courts, lilac trees, lily-of-the-valley, weeping willows, ornamental cherries, peonies, and poppies. Funnily enough, American perfumery also made a lasting impression on me, as the small local perfumery carried American brands which became the staples of my mother and aunt, who wore Estée and Youth Dew. My sister also used to wear Alliage and Cinnabar by Estée Lauder as well as Charlie by Revlon.

What was your experience at school in Versailles like? Did you have a mentor?

When I started learning to smell, it felt like second nature to me. I was lucky to be trained by Michel Almairac and Jean-Louis Sieuzac, perfumers with an outstanding track record.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

I don’t believe I have a style per se, as I make it a point to blend myself in with the brands I create for.

However, there is a common denominator which I try to bring into all my creations: the immediate recognizability of a signature, the immediate pleasure it provides. It needs to be readable, impactful, recognizable: that is my style!

What are your favorite materials to work with?

Orange flower is my personal favorite, but I also love green notes which I’ve used in many different ways.

What do you personally find most fascinating or absorbing about perfumery?

I love to listen to people who come to see me and to translate their words into perfume. I also love challenges, working on brands I’ve never worked with before, and with people I don’t know, taking risks, approaching things from a different angle. I like to win as well! Today, my greatest ambition is transmission. I don’t worry about going down in history; being forgotten is of no importance. But I am keen to be a mentor to young people, to help them win and to think outside the box, to let go without letting go while letting go without letting go . . . In a word, to find themselves; because in the end that’s what it’s all about, and it can bring as much joy as pain, sometimes. It takes a lot of self-sacrifice. Perfume is hard work.

Which of your perfume creations have you been most proud of, and why?

I’m sure most perfumers will give you the same answer: it’s hard to choose between your children! I’m proud of having created the world blockbuster La Vie est Belle with my colleagues Olivier Polge and Dominique Ropion, but there are so many I’m proud of: Libre for Yves Saint Laurent, the shockingly green notes of Synthetic Jungle for Frederic Malle; the sensuality of L’Interdit; the countryside laid back feel of Jo Malone Basil & Neroli; the sexiness of Jimmy Choo; the immediate femininity of Lady Million for Paco Rabanne… and many others!

Were there specific moments or opportunities you believe were crucial or especially formative in your career?

In the 2000s my career took a new turn when I joined IFF, an exception in the male-dominated world of perfumery. When I started out, I was told, “a woman perfumer: no way.’ Luckily when my mother was raising us she was obsessed with telling my sister and I that we had as just as much opportunity as boys, if not more. At IFF, it was a relief; it was more open, there were women who had beaten the odds, like Joséphine Catapano, and Sophia Grojsman, who came up with some of perfumery’s finest fragrances. IFF was also the first company to encourage collaboration between perfumers. You have to be able to work with other perfumers: it’s a challenge, you learn from it; it’s helped me a lot. Curiosity, honesty, respect, emotion . . . That’s what takes you to the next level: humility and pleasure.

What inspires you most?

Meeting new people. The people I work with fuel my creative energy!

How do you define success?

Balance.

How does it feel to be named TFF Lifetime Achievement Perfumer?

Saying it is a dream come true is an understatement. It gives me so much pleasure, since I was informed that I would be this year’s recipient, I’ve been walking on clouds!

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I always say perfumery found me. It’s different in America, compared to other parts of the world, especially in France, where you might have family members in the field and be born into it. When you’re there, everyone knows about perfumery, it’s a celebrated art form and a very common field to aspire to work in, even at a young age. Here in America it’s much less common to have a desire to become a perfumer or to even know about it. It was a great deal of hard work, a bit of luck, and the unpredictable twists and turns of my career that brought perfumery to me.

How did growing up in Saigon affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Southern Vietnam is famous for its fertile land, lush nature and rice fields. There I was able to learn natural healing ingredients at a very young age by working alongside my grandfather, a healer who taught me how to identify, smell and harvest local healing plants. This experience is always a good reminder of how every one of my creations must connect to the beauty of nature and evoke happiness in the bottle.

What do you think is unique about the Vietnamese experience and appreciation of scent?

I would say this is two-fold. For one, my hands-on knowledge of tropical botanicals and raw materials native to Vietnam have greatly influenced my palette and how I create today. Secondly, I am grateful for my past, my heritage and my journey. I look back on it all with only positive embrace, yet my gaze is always on the future and what’s next.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

If we look around us, inspiration is everywhere. In the people we meet, the things we see, the food we eat, the music we listen to. Each moment offers something unique, and all of these moments add up to something beautiful. I try to bottle that. Even off-duty, when I’m restoring vintage cars I feel inspired. They share a similarity with fine fragrance in their beautiful design and performance.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

When I first discovered Poison de Dior at the age of 18 (also my first time smelling perfume), I became aware of a whole new world – the world of scents. From then on, I gradually realized that olfactory beauty is one of the most interesting and elusive forms of art, and so I decided to devote my life to perfumery.

How did growing up in Beijing affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Growing up in Beijing or, more broadly, growing up in China, the most important thing for me is that the core of my thinking is based on Eastern philosophy. In my opinion, the emphasized non-dualistic concepts of “unity of human and nature” and of “harmony” align perfectly with the philosophy of fragrance creation. I have been fortunate to receive a Western education while also being able to think and create in an Eastern way.

What are the similarities and differences between the French and the Chinese perfume industries?

The word “culture” in Chinese directly translates to “the evolution of language”. In comparison to the mature perfume industry in France, China currently lacks a perfume culture. This means that the Chinese language, or people’s expression abilities, are not yet adapted to scents. As a result, both consumers and our direct clients find it difficult to describe their needs and concepts, which in turn affects the efficiency and cultural dissemination abilities of the perfume industry. Changing this situation requires accumulated time, as well as the responsibility of Chinese perfumery professionals, to take action.

What are some of your favorite scents?

I like Ambrox, Patchouli and Rose very much. They all have a well-rounded, quite changeable, and powerful quality to me.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

My sources of creative inspiration come from photographs, paintings from both the East and West, poetry, Japanese haiku, and of course the great works of other brilliant perfumers.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

Initially, I had no idea that there was an entire industry behind perfumes. I really stumbled upon it by luck and a series of circumstances.

I was interested in mathematics and ended up pursuing chemical engineering, but I also loved anything to do with the arts–anything creative that involved me using my hands.

I first heard about perfumery at a job interview, after university, when speaking with a perfumer. I knew immediately that it was something I would enjoy–it was the perfect combo of science and art

How did growing up in Malaysia affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Malaysia is just filled with odors. We have flowers which are very fragrant, leaves (like pandan leaves) which we use in cooking just for their smell, all sorts of spices grow in the region, we also grow coffee and tea, and the famous agar oud can be found in the forest there. Because of its warm and humid climate, the smell and its importance is somehow magnified.

What are some sources of inspiration that relate to your heritage?

I love the smell of the frangipani flower, which grows abundantly in Malaysia. Whenever I work on a white floral I draw inspiration from flowers like these. Plus, growing up with spices and tropical fruits at home, I tend to blend these smells into my compositions.

What are some of the perfume creations you are most proud of, and why?

It’s difficult to choose which ones really. I am proud of each and every creation for different reasons…Lancôme Idôle because of the team work which was incredible and wonderful, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Forever because of the accord using Givaudan’s captives which provided something innovative, and so many more!

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I have always had a love for fragrance since my childhood. I used to put my head in a fabric bag to smell my favorite fabric softener when I was a child. I remember that it just made me really happy. As a teenager, I used to go crazy trying perfumes at Duty Free shops overseas on family trips. I did not know back then what made me smell those scents so obsessively, but in retrospect, it was because of the emotions they evoke and how directly they touch our souls. It was like an uncontrollable passion that I could not explain.

How did your pharmacy studies affect your work as a perfumer?

The intense level of chemistry and botany needed for pharmacy studies still continue to impact my perfumery work. I think that the commitment and concentration that you need to know of how the tiniest of details impacts the end product are similar and equally important in both fields.

How do you express your Japanese roots in your perfume creation?

I adore Japanese minimalism, which is reflected in my creations by keeping formulas minimalistic. I want every ingredient to have a reason-to-be in the formula for the fragrance message to be bold and memorable. When I create with this in mind, I always feel clear on my intention. I also appreciate the concept of wabi-sabi, which is about finding beauty in imperfection, simplicity and impermanence. I love deconstructing formulas, overdosing some ingredients, and playing with extreme fragrance structures.

What are some of your favorite materials to work with, and why?

I love working with combinations of woody materials because they have many different textures, depths and feelings. I enjoy the opportunities we have in perfumery to use both naturals and synthetic woody materials to express our creative visions in a wide variety of ways.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

My mother loves gardening and her garden is full of fragrant flowers. As a result, I also love fragrant flowers influenced by her. I was initially attracted to perfumery when I joined the fragrance industry and smelled so many raw materials and essential oils. I had never smelled so many wonderful scents. I was impressed that the scent of every flower consists of many components which are so well-balanced in nature.

How has your Japanese heritage influenced your work as a perfumer?

One of the many parts of my Japanese heritage that influences me as a perfumer is the art of the Japanese tea ceremony. These beautiful tea rituals create a spirit of hospitality, and people can really “feel” the theme of the ceremony in the small space of the tearoom. Each ceremony can be customized, considering individual preferences and needs to create specific emotions. The same is true of my work. I am trying to create a fragrance that evokes special emotions and impressions with positive feelings.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

I get inspired from the scent of plants, music, arts and food. I especially love Japanese and French cuisine. Japanese cuisine is all about preserving the natural tastes and scents of ingredients. The way it is prepared, the delicate seasoning, and the combination of herbs and condiments are incredibly inspiring. French cuisine brings together a unique combination of ingredients and creates unexpected flavors with such a beautiful appearance.

What is your favorite raw material to work with?

One of my favorite types of raw materials are spicy lactones. Like Jasmin lactone, Wine lactone, and Celery lactone. Each one has spicy facets in the base floral note. Adding a little bit of a spicy note gives my fragrances impact, harmonizes the fresh and floral parts, and connects floral and woody parts smoothly. And it provides the authentic quality of the surface texture and structure of flowers. I’m always interested in learning more about spices from around the world, learning new cultures and understanding how to use regionally important spicy notes in intriguing new ways.

On June 15th, TFF will award the Perfume Extraordinaire Award to one of the finalists who dare to take risks and challenge conventions to create truly outstanding—and out of the ordinary—scents. For this month’s edition of ACCORDS, the perfumers behind 2023’s five Perfume Extraordinaire finalists reveal their inspirations and share how they brought these unique scents to life.

What was the inspiration behind BDK Parfums Gris Charnel?

Gris Charnel Extrait was born from the original, Gris Charnel EDT, a fragrance with many contrasts between luminous and dark notes. In its second chapter, the extrait, I played with quintessential creamy and enveloping notes, the notes that I love to work with the most. Rather than simply creating a more intense version of the EDT, I worked with David to intensify the notes in the fragrance that give a unique intensity. I am often asked what kind of perfume I would create for myself. Well, this would be Gris Charnel, no doubt.

What are some of the elements that make the scent unique?

I wanted to magnify the sensuality of the original signature of Gris Charnel, to be even more magnetic and captivating. I played with the different tonalities of sustainable Madagascar vanilla and vetiver bourbon to push the intensity of Gris Charnel’s powerful, woody signature. I also used one of my favorite ingredients on the MANE palette, Cardamom Pure Jungle Essence™ to bring freshness in a very elegant way.

What effect do you want the perfume to have for the wearer?

I want the wearer to feel sensual and a little enigmatic, a feeling of elusiveness that is at the same time carnal, cool and sexy as is the name, Gris Charnel.

What originally sparked the idea for D.S. & Durga Leatherize?

I wanted to make something that could turn any other perfume into “a leather.”

How does the fragrance express your style as a perfumer?

I often aim to do something classic in a modern way. Our house style often has an edge, but I always want to make wearable perfumes that bring people joy. LEATHERIZE touches upon all of these.

What effect did you want it to have for the wearer?

I think it is a transparent, kaleidoscopic leather perfume – it takes the sniffer from fresher butterscotch clean leather down to a harsher, Earthier horsey animalic leather in the drydown.

What was the inspiration behind Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade?

We wanted to do something joyful yet sensual. It started with the idea of a green explosion–I introduced the rhubarb note but balanced it with luxurious woody facets to give it an authentic elegance.

What do you believe makes the scent especially unique?
It’s a powerful and memorable scent; it’s a diffusive scent that balances the refinement of a great signature.

How did you want people to feel when they smell it?
Joyful and confident.

What was the inspiration behind Matiere Premiere Radical Rose?

In 2016, I founded an organic flower farm in the region of Grasse, near the French Riviera, where I was born. I am a 7th generation perfumer, and I have unforgettable memories of perfume flower harvests at my grandparents’. When they stopped their farming activity, it took me a few years to realize I simply could not let this amazing bond with natural ingredients and know-how collected over generations disappear. This is how I became the only Perfumer in the world to grow his own ingredients. My first plantation was Rose Centifolia. And with Radical Rose, I wanted to create the fragrance with the highest possible dosage of Rose Centifolia from Grasse.

How were the specific materials important in achieving the final effect?

Rose Centifolia from Grasse has specific olfactive qualities, due to the terroir and the way we produce it. Our farming is organic, without any pesticides, and we plant and prune our rose trees in very specific ways – In Grasse we say that a rose tree has to “fight” a little, in order to bloom with profusion. Our Rose Centifolia has a very rich, multi-faceted smell, both deep, almost dark, and also bright and airy. When you use an extreme dosage of Absolute from this Rose, all the facets express themselves almost to an excess. I’ve selected only a few ingredients, of equally high quality, to turn this wild overdose into a perfume signature that stays true to the complexity of our rose, with power and long-lastingness. I’ve used Saffron and Pepper Berries Oil from Jamaica to exacerbate the bright, spicy facets, and Patchouli Oil Indonesia and Labdanum Absolute Andalusia to highlight the dark, woody facets.

What do you believe makes the scent especially unique?

In my eyes it is unique, because at the heart of this scent are the roses I grow on my own organic farm. But above all, Radical Rose is unique because no other scent contains this much Absolute of Rose Centifolia from Grasse, because it’s a rose like no other, not the pink soft rose you could expect, but complex, like a chiaroscuro, with no pre-defined gender.

What was the inspiration behind Mind Games Gardez?

Chess is such a classical game with strong vintage ties and timeless allure. There are these layers of duality to the game—like the two players and the juxtaposition of the black and white elements of the board itself. Much of this was our inspiration. Leather is the base of Gardez and it’s a reminder of the game’s classic elements. But then a playful popcorn note brings in something unexpected.
-Emilie Copperman

I agree, chess is a game of luxury, surprise and delight, and unexpected twists and turns. A great deal of thought goes into each move. It’s all very nuanced and that was our inspiration in approaching creation. We’re like the two players in the game, working together from two regions with two points of view, Paris and New York.
-Nathalie Benareau

How does it relate to the Mind Games Fragrance line as a whole?

Mind Games, as a collection, links the strategy and brilliance of Chess, with the innovative and hypnotic effects of perfumery. The fragrances transport you to the crucial moments of competition in a test of character, skill and intellect. Gardez is an olfactive depiction of the two sides playing against each other, gracefully pulled together by the game.
-EC

What effect do you want the perfume to have for the wearer?

I want the wearer to feel the sensual, enveloping impact of this fragrance. It’s so velvety because of the leather note. And then the popcorn adds creamy indulgence. A dichotomy of strength and delicacy, Gardez reminds the wearer that they can be bold and vulnerable.
-NB

TFF has an ongoing partnership with The Monell Center, a nonprofit institute in Philadelphia dedicated to exploring the science of smell. Monell Research Scientist Pamela Dalton has become a regular and cherished guest in TFF’s Fragrance Day celebrations, sharing valuable, thought-provoking insight into how smell—and its loss—can affect health and mental outlook. For this year’s TFF Fragrance Day Virtual Event on March 21^st, Dalton spoke with Levy about new science surrounding COVID-19 anosmia and the research and programs that Monell is currently focusing on. Here, she shares more about what the institute is learning about smell’s relationship to the brain and emotions, and what advances we can hope to see in smell testing.

What are some of the ways that smell loss can affect people cognitively and emotionally?

Many people who lose their sense of smell often report emotional changes such as sadness and depression. Of course, some of this can be understood as grieving for the loss of the ability to enjoy food and beverage, smell the world around them and especially the smell of a loved one. However, the close interaction between the olfactory structures in the brain and the limbic system (i.e., emotional center) structures strongly suggests that the lack of olfactory input can disrupt emotional processing as well.

Olfactory decline is associated with cognitive impairments, and that has largely been attributed to the fact that the central brain structures involved in olfaction are often the first location of impact in neurodegenerative diseases. However, more recent discussion has centered around whether lack of input or stimulation to the olfactory brain structures is what is responsible for the onset of neurodegeneration, the appearance of plaques and tangles in the primary olfactory cortex. Sadly, we will have an opportunity to find this out as we now have many millions of people worldwide, often younger individuals, who have not yet and may not ever recover from COVID-19 related smell loss.

What are some of the current programs and specific research channels that you are working on now? 

Our lab and others at Monell are still working on developing and deploying our rapid smell test called SCENTinel, which was originally conceived as a way to screen for a virus like SARS-COV-2, which manifested initially in dramatic loss of smell. We hope to utilize this test in a study of adults at risk for neurodegenerative diseases as a way to separate which aspects of olfactory function are impacted in each disorder, thereby leading to an earlier and more specific diagnosis. We are also interested in working on promoting the concept of universal smell testing in order to fully characterize this important sensory system across all age groups and importantly, to be able to track changes that may signify other types of disease or illness. Monell will host a 2-day conference in November that will bring together scientists, physicians and hopefully patients to further this goal. Our Patient Centered Outcomes Research Institute funded survey that recruited over 6000 people in just 3 weeks gave us great insight into how devastating the loss of smell can be and that there is insufficient information about treatment and resources, even among physicians, for patients to access.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

We discovered at the Notables Breakfast that the majority of the Class of 2023 never aspired to work in the fragrance industry, as most of us did not know this was an option at the onset of our careers, yet each of us shared such passion for what we do! Despite having different backgrounds and roles, our collective love of fragrance was visceral and radiating within the walls of the TFF offices that morning! I am beyond thrilled to have been nominated by Firmenich, awarded by TFF and join this distinguished group of gifted creatives! I look forward to partnering with the amazing team at TFF as part of the Notables Think Tank and on their DEI initiatives to ensure that the next generation of talent is aware of the amazing opportunities within this industry.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Growing up, I imagined that by 2023 we would be able to teleport or time travel. While sadly (especially for those of us that commute) physical teleportation is not yet a reality, the magic of fragrance is that it can and does immediately transport us – with one breath, we can be instantaneously brought back to a cherished childhood memory or a destination halfway around the world, or even feel enveloped by a loved one that is no longer with us! At Firmenich, the creativity of our perfumers allows us to transport over 4 billion customers several times throughout their day!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a wonderful recognition for the passion I bring to work every day. I feel very honored and grateful.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

As Perfumer, the answer seems to be obvious for me: by creating fragrances. Also, I believe that the passion for fragrances is closely linked to the passion for raw materials, whether they are naturals or synthetics. Working within a fragrance house enables me to highlight these raw materials. I particularly like to use natural essential oils from Maison LAUTIER because being part of Symrise I know better the supply chain and feel closer to the raw material, they smell amazing. There is also a sustainable aspect that I like by empowering women and local communities. Then, together with the customer’s vision, we give life to the fragrance and hopefully inspire the world.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I’m still absorbing this amazing recognition. Our industry is full of stand out talent and I am very happy to be counted among them.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

My favorite experiences in fragrance houses over the years have been working with incredibly diverse and talented perfumers. I work with them to uncover the stories, the secrets, and the signature entwined within each creation. My goal is to teach a new generation of evaluators to look deeper, and to take the time to give meaning and soul to a fragrance creation. A “story full” fragrance connects and enchants and lives and breathes. That is a powerful tool to connect people everywhere.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It simply means the world to me! I have admired The Fragrance Foundation as long as I have been in the industry so to be able to be a part of the TFF family, especially being able to represent a company like Givaudan at the same time is a dream come true.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I adore working at a fragrance house and being at the true center of creation. The opportunity to work with the best perfumers in the industry to create fragrances that have a tangible and lasting effect on the consumers is something I am grateful for every day.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I am particularly touched to have been nominated by IFF as the 2023 Notable. It is wonderful to have within our Industry an organization such as The Fragrance Foundation and its key members who relentlessly develop meaningful programs, highlighting individuals in different roles and great causes to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance, and aiming at sparking career aspirations for upcoming generations.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

The adventure of crafting a fragrance is fascinating, the magical story that goes with it, working alongside incredibly talented artists, our perfumers, hand in hand with our clients and partners, drawing on the past to create the future of fragrances to awaken the extraordinary senses for a better world. Being able to share this passion with others, whether neophytes or experts is always highly gratifying!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a huge honor to be named a TFF Notable, and I am truly grateful to be a part of the Notables Crew! We all share a genuine passion for fragrance, which is the driving force behind TFF’s Mission. I am looking forward to my first Think Tank, because it is an opportunity for my voice and unique ideas to be heard, while also making a positive impact.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

There is a deep connection between scent and memory. Unlike anything else, fragrance can conjure up memories of the past or become something new altogether. Scent is a very powerful tool because it is so closely tied into your emotions. In a way, fragrance makes you feel something. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to inspire and connect with people through my perfumery work.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

Being named a TFF Notable is an incredible honor and humbling experience, yet a great source of pride. It signifies not only hard work and dedication, but also recognition and appreciation from the leading experts of the industry. One of the many responsibilities that comes with being a Notable includes driving the TFF initiative forward. My goal is to spread awareness of the benefits of fragrances and how the industry is diverse, equitable, and inclusive.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

It provides unique opportunities to connect with customers, creators, and the wider industry to build relationships, inspire meaningful conversations and promote awareness of the craft and experience of fragrances. By utilizing my regulatory expertise to develop an educational presence, the complexities of fragrance creation and the ever changing regulatory landscape and scientific aspects of the artistry of perfumery can be brought to light. Working at Robertet offers the invaluable opportunity to bring joy and inspire others to discover the world of fragrance.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In the past few years, we have seen more clean fragrances and I think that 2023 will be a year where we will see more sensual/warm scents emerging. I think that now after Covid, people are going out more and starting to wear bolder scents like big woods that can be attractive. I think we will also continue to see more gender fluid scents as people are wearing what they enjoy versus based on gender.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

I think that the digital world is having more impact than ever on consumers and how they engage with the world and, in turn, with their scent. This is something I believe we will see more of in store and through scent experiential moments.

For both personal and for home, I feel that the consumer is conscious to select a scent that they love, regardless of any gender or marketing or note, but based on how they feel as they want their home to smell pleasant and relaxing but still enjoy the scent they personally wear through the day.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

The emotional power of scent will play a vital role in how consumers engage with fragrance for themselves and their homes. Givaudan studies reveal that 89% of people believe that a fragrance can improve their overall well being. They are looking for “feel-good” elements in their lives, now more than ever. Scent has the power to trigger emotions and consumers have come to expect that fragrance can and should do more than just smell good. 

Our research also shows that consumers now have a greater sense of self and their motivation for fragrance has shifted to a place of self-empowerment, self-expression and the belief that they are worth it. This has led to a greater exploration of scent experiences and new territories as consumers look for ways to feed their need for individualism and emotion-led scent.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We see the emergence of scents that allow for an escape into nature, reimagined for a generation in search of new connections. Authentic green notes and sea accords, infused with mindful adventure. We also envision scents that reestablish consumers’ sense of self and purpose, fueling new expressions of optimism and spirituality. Feather-like notes with comforting and cocooning elements that are incredibly personal and profound, amplifying the effect of the time we spend with ourselves and reflecting the influence of spirituality and higher powers. As consumers seek balance, inclusivity and positive energy, we will see the emergence of fragrances that bring energy and focus, including bright citruses, calming accords, energizing aromatics and blooming florals.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

We predict a continued shift towards playful and comforting scents that offer mood-boosting benefits. We can expect to see cherry and berry notes taking center stage while new interpretations of rose and Gen Z favorite, vanilla, will make a comeback. Soft and delicate yellow mimosa flower, a popular fragrance ingredient in Europe, is now making its way into American perfumery with launches such as Eauso Vert’s Sintra, created by IFF perfumer Pascal Gaurin using our LMR natural Mimosa by IFF.

We’ve also seen an increase in barely-there, second skin fragrances that we expect to evolve into warmer, musky scents interpreted in solar, salted, and milky spaces with spice or fruity combinations. We see this trend accelerating through the innovation from molecules like AmberNat, IFF’s first renewable and biodegradable Amber captive. We also expect an increase in woody and darker, leathery scents, thanks to ingredients such as LMR upcycled Oakwood absolute, found in Scents of Wood Oak in Oak, or IFF soft leather-smelling Saffiano.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We foresee the consumer engaging with fragrances as a form of self-care, with wellness and aromatherapy benefits emerging as a key purchase driver. Smart sourcing will also impact fragrance purchases, with consumers gravitating toward transparent brands looking into greener ingredients. We predict an increase in digital activations among fragrance brands and expansion in the metaverse. We will see brands interacting with consumers in new ways such as digital shopping, NFT’s and digital fragrances. TikTok, which now accounts for 45% of social media-driven fragrance sales, will continue growing in popularity through the #PerfumeTok. We also predict brands will re-launch discontinued cult classic fragrances for a nostalgic, positive feel and to support customer loyalty. 

We’re also seeing a continued growth of luxury home scents, with a growing number of brands addressing that segment with haute-perfumery positioning: Ginori 1735 with its playful Luke Edward Hall launch, the relaunch of Paul Smith home fragrances, the continued success of Frederic Malle, diptyque, Nette, and other such brands.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In 2023, we’ll continue to see consumers looking to fragrance as a means of self-expression and ultimately to express individuality. Much of this will be captured with disruptive and unexpected combinations of notes that are intentionally imagined by perfumers to spark contrast. Boy Smells’ new Woodphoria launch is the perfect example of this – where notes of cardamom, black pepper, and fig in isolation are incredibly different but nevertheless compelling when combined.

At the same time, genderful launches will be on the rise as the lines have become increasingly blurred across all categories of fragrances. Sustainable storytelling will also continue to evolve and become even more paramount to consumers as they continue to prioritize caring for the planet.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

Scentscaping has become a household term overnight! Consumers are looking to elevate their home space using and experimenting with home fragrances via traditional methods (candles, reed diffusers), but also exploring new technologies – automated, app-enabled diffusers and more. So inevitably the interest and therefore investment level in home fragrance has greatly increased. Many of the fine fragrance trends will also be reflected in the home – consumers will be considering how to select a home scent that ultimately delivers on self-expression and speaks to the desire to find a unique home signature scent. And just like with fine fragrance, consumers will also be more tuned in to ingredient safety and sustainability.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

Evolved, unique greens will make their way into fragrances as notes of plant leaves emerge with a nuanced approach to the fresh palette. We can look forward to fresh-cut herbs, plush mosses, green teas, and anything that smells green becoming even more popular—it puts us in touch with our natural connection to earth. 

Big blooming bouquets reminiscent of the 80s are back to make a statement, partially due to nostalgia, but also because consumers want to indulge in concentrated and qualitative, long-lasting juices, and they are willing to pay more for it. Departing from intimate, clean scents, the new year will see fragrances with rich heart notes made up of intense florals to evoke a romantic, feminine aura.

Genderless woods will be everywhere, evolving into more smoky silhouettes highlighting resins, myrrh and smoky woods like oud. 

Viva Magenta is the 2023 color of the year, so we also anticipate seeing the color come to life in the fragrance world as it’s predicted that Red Berry will continue to be a rising star inclusive of Raspberry, Strawberry, and Lychee notes.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee? 

Transportive fragrances will take people out of their homes and into a scented escape, as well as happy and nostalgic scents that continue to resonate with consumers seeking joy in everyday moments.

More than 60% of consumers are interested in seeing their home scents in personal care forms, so we can expect to see more brands play cross categories, offering the same scent across product forms. This may elevate everyday categories as well, as luxe enters home and personal care.

Consumers are going to be looking for premium products that they love at an affordable price. That said, they are willing to pay more than in the past for high-quality and uniqueness.

People may also start to shift away from the celebrity and name-brand fragrances to instead shop fragrances that really speak to them, their individuality and their personality.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

At Takasago we have identified several macro trends that have implications for Fine Fragrance and CPG categories in 2023 and beyond. During uncertain times of volatility and stress, people seek out fragrances that will help them regulate their mood. We have seen fine fragrance, air care and personal care launches featuring comforting gourmand, woody and amber notes that wrap you in a gentle cocoon of coziness. We expect that will continue into 2023, and we will continue to find new ways to express this comforting sensation.

There is nothing that can clear the mind quite like time spent outdoors, immersing ourselves in the simple yet majestic beauty of nature. With a renewed focus on eco-responsibility, fragrance notes that bring us closer to transformative outdoor experiences are resonating. In 2023 we will see more leafy greens, clean herbal aromatic and gorgeous floral notes that allow us to dream and be transported to places both real and imagined.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We are closely monitoring retail trends and consumer habits related to fragrance and are very excited about what the future holds for our industry. We believe the next wave of hyper sensorial experiences both at retail and online are emerging with hugely positive implications for our brand partners. Takasago is unveiling our new Metaverse platform in 1Q 2023, where we will be engaging with clients and consumers to unveil the next frontier in connecting, collaborating, co-creating and creativity.