Vera Wang’s impact on American fashion cannot be understated. A former figure skater and Vogue editor, she revolutionized and modernized bridalwear when she opened her first boutique in 1990—and she has since brought her unerring good taste to everything from eyewear to tableware, bedding to jewelry, even to vodka. She has also been prolific in the world of perfume: her beloved fragrances—nearly 30 of which have launched since the first, Vera Wang, debuted in 2002—transcend the Big Day to become lifetime signature scents. Here, the iconic designer, who was recently awarded the National Medal of Arts by President Biden, reflects on her surpassingly successful career, and shares why she believes that perfume is the ultimate accessory.

What did your experience as a skater and early career as an editor bring to your sensibility as a designer?

Skating gave me a physical ability that’s quite rare in the fashion world. And before I ever went into fashion, I was already involved in fashion, because skating is probably the only sport in which your performance involves how you look, how you dress, what the choreography is, and what the music is. That’s not so different from putting together a fashion show.

As a fashion editor, I was exposed to more fashion in one run through at Vogue than most people see in a lifetime. You’re sitting there for eight hours, and there’s clothing from all over the world. It’s tried on, discussed, evaluated. Is it good enough for the magazine? Is it something that’s going to create a story? Is there a trend? Fashion, for me, is so much about line. It’s about the body. Lyricism, sensuality. I’m so connected to my own body because of my history. Every designer brings something from their life to their work. I brought 22 years of using my body for expression, and using my mind.

What do you think it was about your early wedding dress designs that struck such a chord with people?

I was the girl who was never getting married. I got engaged at the ripe old age of 38 and three quarters. We didn’t even have time to arrange a wedding, we were both so busy working. And when I went wedding dress shopping… well, you can imagine. I didn’t intend to wear a traditional wedding gown, which, at that time, was basically a uniform, with all kinds of frilly things and leg of mutton sleeves. I just couldn’t relate to any of it, and most of the other women getting engaged were 15 years younger than me. So I ended up designing something and having it made. That’s how it all started. I realized there was an opportunity to bring an editorial eye, and a real fashion sensibility, to bridal.

You recently received a National Medal of Arts from President Biden. How did it feel to be recognized with such an honor?

The United States has been so prolific in its contribution to all the arts and humanities, and to sports, it’s incredible. And when you think of getting a medal from the President, for the arts, it’s a bit surreal, I thought of all the other people that should have gotten it instead of me. So many American fashion designers have made such great contributions to making American style so influential. I’ll cite two of my friends: Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren, my ex-boss. They exported American culture to the world. What’s even more ridiculous is that I was the first one to get an award for fashion, because I presume fashion had never been considered an art.

But have you ever tried to dress a woman’s body, a real, live woman? Have you ever tried to change her life or envision her in a different way? If that’s not an art form, I don’t know what is. I am really proud that I was awarded this medal for that reason, because my whole life has been devoted to, hopefully, making women feel comfortable and not intimidated by fashion.

How has your Chinese American heritage enriched your life and work?

I grew up having to be a blend of cultures. Chinese families have a very distinct culture. It’s based on respect for elders, on discipline, hard work, tenacity, humility, and being grateful for opportunities. You don’t forget that kind of upbringing. And you do bring that along with you, throughout your life. I felt very grateful to have gotten the job at Vogue. And grateful to have gotten a job at Ralph. And grateful for having had the opportunity to create my own company, and to have had people understand what I was trying to do.

What do you love most about fragrance?

First of all, it conjures up memories. There’s a sensuality of fragrance that you feel, and you experience, but so do people around you. It’s a way to communicate. It’s about mood and individuality, and self-expression. In a way, fragrance is the ultimate accessory. And I think that it’s sexy. I remember whenever I used to work really late, and when I had a dinner date or something, I would just put on a bit of fragrance. Some women do lipstick, but for me it was always fragrance. I would just put a bit behind my ears, and I would transition from a frantic workday to feeling feminine, and ready to go out.

What role does it play in your daily life?

It’s an every day, every way type of thing for me. I always put something on in the morning. And when I’m going out at night, I always remember to spritz myself, because it puts me in a different place. That’s what’s so amazing about fragrance. It can do that for you, just like music can.

There are friends of mine who have their scent. And there are friends of mine who like to explore. I think fragrance has evolved. The new generations are a bit more adventurous, and they like to find new things. There’s more flexibility. But it’s also their lifestyle and seasonality, the occasion. Lots of girls like lighter in summer. Many other things start to enter into their choices of scents, I think, from what I have experienced with all the women around me.

What differentiates a bridal fragrance from any other scent?

The enormity of the event. It takes on so much emotion on your wedding day. It takes on a very different symbolism. God knows, I’ve attended enough weddings, and done enough weddings. I don’t know how many thousand I’ve done in 34 years, but I do know that scent plays such a significant role because it’s something that you’ll remember, probably, forever. It immediately conjures up where you were, what you were doing, how you felt. And hopefully, those are wonderful memories.

What is your process when you’re working with perfumes and fragrance?

It’s always different. I’ve done a lot of fragrances. When the first Vera Wang fragrance came out it was a stronger fragrance than what was popular at the time. But I had been brought up and raised in the French fragrance tradition, so I felt that it was more authentic for me to do a fragrance that was a bit stronger. I remember working on it was such an education. It was smelling different trials, testing, having the coffee beans there, spraying it all over your body, your wrist, your finger, your elbow, your arm, your neck. It was a labor of love.

And every perfumer works differently. Of course, I had my own story that was from my past, and from my youth, and from my education. But starting with that first fragrance, I began to learn about top notes, dry downs. I’m always learning. And certainly, fashion changes in fragrance as well. Sometimes women don’t want musky or heavy, they want something very light or they want unisex. Things evolve. That’s what makes it so challenging, but it also gives you a chance to be creative.

Among your Vera Wang fragrances, what’s your favorite?

It’s like asking which is your favorite child! I really did love my first one. And Princess came out of a personal story. I was driving my daughters around West Palm Beach, and they had all their friends with them. I had about five girls in the back seat. I think they must have been eight to 10 years of age. And I’m thinking, at the same time, of a new fragrance concept. And I said, “What do you think about ‘Princess?'” And they started screaming in the car. Because obviously, they all wanted to be Disney princesses. They all wanted to wear crowns. And so we got Vera Wang Princess. It was never meant to be about royalty, per se. It was such a bigger concept. There is no limitation to what the word “Princess” can be. Rock Princess, the next one, was inspired by the movie Almost Famous, and the love of music in this country, young people, garage bands, flannel shirts, guys on skateboards, suburbia. And every single Princess that followed… from Princess Night, about going clubbing, to Preppy Princess, which was about girls in kilt skirts and blazers, like Gossip Girl… was different but touched on something in popular culture.

And now we have Rock Princess 2023.

Yes, a relaunch of Rock. It’s a very different time now. Guys aren’t all running around in flannel shirts on skateboards. There are cell phones, there’s Coachella. I felt it’s got to be much more about the influence of rappers, the star power of the Beyonces and Rihannas of this world. It’s really about being cool, being glamorous, the love of makeup and nails and glitz, and all these things that did not exist 20 years ago. I said, “If we’re going to bring Rock back, it’s got to be a different Rock.”

What are your plans for future scents?

We have another scent in the pipeline. It is not part of the Princess family, and I think it’s incredibly exciting. It has a different price point. It’s higher, with more essential oils. It’s got its place, I think, with the brand, because we really span from accessible to haute couture. So I think that it’s the right time for this to happen. I can’t say any more yet… but it’s coming.

How do you support the Fragrance Foundation’s DEI initiative, #FragranceForwardTFF?

First of all, I think that Linda Levy has done an insane job. I have to give her kudos. She has been nothing but supportive of me, and a very good advisor, as she is to all, in this business. Anything that we can do as a brand, anything I can do as a designer, and a woman, and someone has been lucky enough to work in the fragrance industry—we’re going to do whatever we can to be supportive of Linda and the Fragrance Foundation’s work. Linda is just unstoppable. I say that in the most complimentary way. It was not just a position for her, it’s a calling. And I think every fragrance firm would agree. She has gained enormous respect from the entire industry, because she is someone who believes so passionately in this industry and what can be done to make it better. It’s refreshing. And it’s encouraging, and it’s exciting.

ELOREA

Founders Su Min Park & Wonny Lee

How does Elorea bring the inspiring heritage of Korea to life?

Elorea brings Korea’s heritage to life through fragrances that draw inspiration from the country’s natural beauty, traditional practices, and rich scent culture dating back to 500 B.C. Scent played a significant role in the daily lives of Korea’s ancestors, who believed in its power to promote well-being by clearing the mind, protecting the body, and dispelling negative energy. As this aspect of our history is lesser known, we believe it is essential to highlight it through our brand. Our fragrances reflect the traditional approach to scents while offering unique olfactive experiences with the finest ingredients sourced from Korea and around the world. By telling the story of different aspects of our culture, we strive to capture the essence of our heritage through thoughtfully crafted products.

What is the philosophy behind the brand?

ELOREA is a portmanteau of ‘Elements’ and ‘Korea’. The philosophy behind our brand is to draw inspiration from Korea’s rich history of fragrance and lifestyle, capture, preserve, and share the stories of our heritage. Our brand is built on the foundation of balance, blending traditional and modern elements, classic and unconventional ideas, as well as sustainability and luxury. We believe in sourcing only the highest quality materials and producing in small batches with exceptional care. Our mission is to create fragrances that evoke a sense of balance and harmony, not only in the scent but in the overall experience.

What does having a unique identity and rich cultural reference points bring to the fragrances themselves?

Having a unique identity and rich cultural reference points brings depth and meaning to the fragrances themselves. Each Elorea fragrances are more than just a scent- they are a way to connect with and appreciate the beauty and complexity of Korean culture, and they serve as a way to explore and experience the world beyond one’s own perspective. By drawing on cultural heritage, Elorea is able to create fragrances that are unique, meaningful, and unforgettable.

FORMOSA

Founder Shining Sung, Bottle Designer Marc Rosen, Master Perfumer Honorine Blanc

What was the original idea behind Formosa?

Taiwan used to be called Formosa when in the 17th Century, the Portuguese sailors sailed past Taiwan and saw how beautiful the island was, they called it Ille Formosa, beautiful island. Since then, Taiwan has always been known as Formosa!

I came from Taiwan and love Taiwan. I have always been active in promoting Taiwan in cultural programs, in art and music. Since Marc Rosen is a good friend and I always admire his talent for designing the famous and beautiful perfume bottles, one day I just came up with the idea of having Marc design a perfume bottle to celebrate and promote Taiwan by calling it Formosa, to bring the name Formosa to the world.

How do the notes in the fragrance conjure the beauty of Taiwan?

This fragrance was inspired by the unique beauty of Taiwan. The exotic native Plum Blossom, the Rose Petals and Tiger Orchid together with vibrant indigenous Mandarin and candied lemons are enveloped in musks and sheer Amber to capture the essence of this magical place.

How does the bottle design reflect the brand’s heritage and Taiwanese culture?

I was inspired by Taiwan’s contrast between the modern and the antique. For example, the modern architecture and their predominant position in supplying the world’s computer chips vs their position in being a leading exporter of Jade. Hence the very contemporary and sculptural crystal bottle capped with a faux carved Jade ball. As a designer my object is always to create a design that both looks and feels tactile.

ISSEY MIYAKE

How do Issey Miyake fragrances express Miyake’s Japanese heritage?

In 1992, Issey Miyake created his first signature fragrance for men, L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme, which was inspired by traditional Japanese baths and the smell of yuzu, a citrus typical to Japan. With its vibrant freshness that combines strength and balance, the fragrance established itself as truly timeless and iconic, an elegant and recognizable scent and bottle in the world of perfumery.

What are the most important elements of the brand’s cultural background and philosophy?

Issey Miyake was a Japanese fashion designer who was known for his technology-driven clothes design, exhibitions, as well as fragrances. His international background allowed him to get the best influences from Tokyo, Paris, and New York creating a cultural melt, fulfilled by diversity and intelligent creativity.

Issey Miyake’s brand philosophy has never deviated. The brand’s goals are still to create fragrances that convey a message, inspire everyone with hope, present simple yet functional designs that are at once accessible and universal, while never losing a sense of wonder. As with his clothing design, Issey Miyake would ensure to create fragrances that are not only pertinent to lifestyles but are also founded in pure essentials.

How has the brand’s unique sensibility set it apart in the fragrance industry?

For the past thirty years, Issey Miyake perfumes have been celebrating nature in all its forms and manifestations. This unconditional love for nature can now be seen in a commitment towards tangible actions towards its preservation. It also represents the future for the perfume industry, which needs to move towards more environmentally conscious production in general.

Issey Miyake Fragrance as a brand has a genuine vision for its sustainable development. Previously, he was always inspired by nature, and very respectful of it too, and this commitment is reflected in all the perfumes as well as in their packaging as the brand continues to move forward and expand.

KENZO

How does Kenzo express Kenzo Takada’s Japanese heritage?

KENZO has only one creative credo, that of its founder: the world is beautiful.

KENZO perfumes take up the themes and values dear to Kenzo Takada: nature, flowers, happiness, freedom, dreams, youth, and the fusion between East and West. Tradition and modernity. Excellence and attention to detail.

What does the East Meets West philosophy behind the brand bring to the scents themselves?

A unique olfactory journey. Each creation leaves a strong and poetic signature in its wake.

What are some of the ways that the brand’s heritage has set it apart in the fragrance
industry ?

KENZO perfumes will be from the very first, against the current, far from the trends, in the vanguard with a philosophy carried by the love of the beautiful and the good. Pioneering fragrances that have marked the history of perfumery.

LILANUR PARFUMS

Co-Creator Paul Austin

What are some of the ways that LilaNur is dedicated to celebrating the rich floriculture of India?

LilaNur was born in the flower fields of Madurai, in Southern India. Due to India’s biodiversity, it grows an abundance of pristine natural ingredients used in haute perfumery – from flowers to spice, woods, gums, herbs and more. Our vision has always been to craft traceable fragrances woven around these ingredients – and the communities where they are cultivated, processed and used in daily life.

Working with our foundational partners – Jasmine CE – and a community of 5000 flower pickers, we’ve established the Rosabagh (which means rose garden) Foundation with a mission of nurturing rural workers whose livelihoods are dependent on the floriculture economy. The Jasmine C.E. team facilitated the planting of Rose Centifolia in Madurai to fill out the crop calendar covering seasons when fields were fallow and no picking work was available. Not only was this a source of full-year work for the picking community, it also led to an extraordinary outcome: LilaNur Parfums facilitated the addition of this unique Indian-grown Rose Centifolia to the international perfumery palette and it is our greatest hope to extend the global demand for this specialty. It is a stand out star of Fabrice Pellegrin’s masterpiece “Gul Rouge” scent.

What is the philosophy behind the brand?

LilaNur Parfums’ mission is to inspire the world with India’s rich fragrance culture, build awareness around its array of natural perfumery ingredients, and to drive opportunities to the thousands of rural workers whose livelihoods depend upon India’s floriculture economy.

From its inception, LilaNur Parfums forged partnerships with Jasmine C.E. in Madurai – the country’s leading supplier of floral absolutes to the fragrance industry – and the Firmenich Naturals Innovation Group in Grasse to create fully traceable and innovative scents from field to flacon.

What does having a unique identity and rich cultural reference points bring to the fragrances themselves?

India is alive with scent. Its vast array of flowers, spices, and herbs are such a key part of daily life and have been an intrinsic part of Indian culture for millennia. Each of our Eau de Parfums is a portrait of LilaNur India’s rich fragrance culture – and its scenting rituals. For example, our Vettiver Mousson references the vetiver roots woven into mats that are placed in windows and splashed with water to act as a natural air conditioner. The cooling breezes are filled with the fresh, earthy smell of damp vetiver roots. And once the monsoon arrives, this smell mingles with the wet, humidity of the rains along with the first flush of jasmine.

Our Davana Ceder Eau de parfum is a herbaceous scent that originates from an Indian plant holy to the Hindu deity Shiva, the god of transformation.

Rajni Nocturne is a scent that captures the night-blooming tuberose, called rajnigandha (night-fragrant). This tuberose is harvested before dawn to ensure the integrity of the scent.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I always say perfumery found me. It’s different in America, compared to other parts of the world, especially in France, where you might have family members in the field and be born into it. When you’re there, everyone knows about perfumery, it’s a celebrated art form and a very common field to aspire to work in, even at a young age. Here in America it’s much less common to have a desire to become a perfumer or to even know about it. It was a great deal of hard work, a bit of luck, and the unpredictable twists and turns of my career that brought perfumery to me.

How did growing up in Saigon affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Southern Vietnam is famous for its fertile land, lush nature and rice fields. There I was able to learn natural healing ingredients at a very young age by working alongside my grandfather, a healer who taught me how to identify, smell and harvest local healing plants. This experience is always a good reminder of how every one of my creations must connect to the beauty of nature and evoke happiness in the bottle.

What do you think is unique about the Vietnamese experience and appreciation of scent?

I would say this is two-fold. For one, my hands-on knowledge of tropical botanicals and raw materials native to Vietnam have greatly influenced my palette and how I create today. Secondly, I am grateful for my past, my heritage and my journey. I look back on it all with only positive embrace, yet my gaze is always on the future and what’s next.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

If we look around us, inspiration is everywhere. In the people we meet, the things we see, the food we eat, the music we listen to. Each moment offers something unique, and all of these moments add up to something beautiful. I try to bottle that. Even off-duty, when I’m restoring vintage cars I feel inspired. They share a similarity with fine fragrance in their beautiful design and performance.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

When I first discovered Poison de Dior at the age of 18 (also my first time smelling perfume), I became aware of a whole new world – the world of scents. From then on, I gradually realized that olfactory beauty is one of the most interesting and elusive forms of art, and so I decided to devote my life to perfumery.

How did growing up in Beijing affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Growing up in Beijing or, more broadly, growing up in China, the most important thing for me is that the core of my thinking is based on Eastern philosophy. In my opinion, the emphasized non-dualistic concepts of “unity of human and nature” and of “harmony” align perfectly with the philosophy of fragrance creation. I have been fortunate to receive a Western education while also being able to think and create in an Eastern way.

What are the similarities and differences between the French and the Chinese perfume industries?

The word “culture” in Chinese directly translates to “the evolution of language”. In comparison to the mature perfume industry in France, China currently lacks a perfume culture. This means that the Chinese language, or people’s expression abilities, are not yet adapted to scents. As a result, both consumers and our direct clients find it difficult to describe their needs and concepts, which in turn affects the efficiency and cultural dissemination abilities of the perfume industry. Changing this situation requires accumulated time, as well as the responsibility of Chinese perfumery professionals, to take action.

What are some of your favorite scents?

I like Ambrox, Patchouli and Rose very much. They all have a well-rounded, quite changeable, and powerful quality to me.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

My sources of creative inspiration come from photographs, paintings from both the East and West, poetry, Japanese haiku, and of course the great works of other brilliant perfumers.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

Initially, I had no idea that there was an entire industry behind perfumes. I really stumbled upon it by luck and a series of circumstances.

I was interested in mathematics and ended up pursuing chemical engineering, but I also loved anything to do with the arts–anything creative that involved me using my hands.

I first heard about perfumery at a job interview, after university, when speaking with a perfumer. I knew immediately that it was something I would enjoy–it was the perfect combo of science and art

How did growing up in Malaysia affect your sensibility as a perfumer?

Malaysia is just filled with odors. We have flowers which are very fragrant, leaves (like pandan leaves) which we use in cooking just for their smell, all sorts of spices grow in the region, we also grow coffee and tea, and the famous agar oud can be found in the forest there. Because of its warm and humid climate, the smell and its importance is somehow magnified.

What are some sources of inspiration that relate to your heritage?

I love the smell of the frangipani flower, which grows abundantly in Malaysia. Whenever I work on a white floral I draw inspiration from flowers like these. Plus, growing up with spices and tropical fruits at home, I tend to blend these smells into my compositions.

What are some of the perfume creations you are most proud of, and why?

It’s difficult to choose which ones really. I am proud of each and every creation for different reasons…Lancôme Idôle because of the team work which was incredible and wonderful, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Forever because of the accord using Givaudan’s captives which provided something innovative, and so many more!

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I have always had a love for fragrance since my childhood. I used to put my head in a fabric bag to smell my favorite fabric softener when I was a child. I remember that it just made me really happy. As a teenager, I used to go crazy trying perfumes at Duty Free shops overseas on family trips. I did not know back then what made me smell those scents so obsessively, but in retrospect, it was because of the emotions they evoke and how directly they touch our souls. It was like an uncontrollable passion that I could not explain.

How did your pharmacy studies affect your work as a perfumer?

The intense level of chemistry and botany needed for pharmacy studies still continue to impact my perfumery work. I think that the commitment and concentration that you need to know of how the tiniest of details impacts the end product are similar and equally important in both fields.

How do you express your Japanese roots in your perfume creation?

I adore Japanese minimalism, which is reflected in my creations by keeping formulas minimalistic. I want every ingredient to have a reason-to-be in the formula for the fragrance message to be bold and memorable. When I create with this in mind, I always feel clear on my intention. I also appreciate the concept of wabi-sabi, which is about finding beauty in imperfection, simplicity and impermanence. I love deconstructing formulas, overdosing some ingredients, and playing with extreme fragrance structures.

What are some of your favorite materials to work with, and why?

I love working with combinations of woody materials because they have many different textures, depths and feelings. I enjoy the opportunities we have in perfumery to use both naturals and synthetic woody materials to express our creative visions in a wide variety of ways.

What initially drew you to perfumery?

My mother loves gardening and her garden is full of fragrant flowers. As a result, I also love fragrant flowers influenced by her. I was initially attracted to perfumery when I joined the fragrance industry and smelled so many raw materials and essential oils. I had never smelled so many wonderful scents. I was impressed that the scent of every flower consists of many components which are so well-balanced in nature.

How has your Japanese heritage influenced your work as a perfumer?

One of the many parts of my Japanese heritage that influences me as a perfumer is the art of the Japanese tea ceremony. These beautiful tea rituals create a spirit of hospitality, and people can really “feel” the theme of the ceremony in the small space of the tearoom. Each ceremony can be customized, considering individual preferences and needs to create specific emotions. The same is true of my work. I am trying to create a fragrance that evokes special emotions and impressions with positive feelings.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

I get inspired from the scent of plants, music, arts and food. I especially love Japanese and French cuisine. Japanese cuisine is all about preserving the natural tastes and scents of ingredients. The way it is prepared, the delicate seasoning, and the combination of herbs and condiments are incredibly inspiring. French cuisine brings together a unique combination of ingredients and creates unexpected flavors with such a beautiful appearance.

What is your favorite raw material to work with?

One of my favorite types of raw materials are spicy lactones. Like Jasmin lactone, Wine lactone, and Celery lactone. Each one has spicy facets in the base floral note. Adding a little bit of a spicy note gives my fragrances impact, harmonizes the fresh and floral parts, and connects floral and woody parts smoothly. And it provides the authentic quality of the surface texture and structure of flowers. I’m always interested in learning more about spices from around the world, learning new cultures and understanding how to use regionally important spicy notes in intriguing new ways.

TFF proudly celebrates Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month in this issue of Accords! By featuring individuals in our fragrance community who share how their heritage, culture and experiences contribute to their creative vision and fragrance success, we recognize our diversity makes us all stronger together in the fragrance world.

Vera Wang’s drive and evolution from figure skater to editor to designer and on to fragrance creator and more, is truly exceptional! In this interview, our editor April Long prompts Vera to share inside personal stories that perhaps only the Veragang have heard before and allows our audience to truly get the inside scoop.

For all she has achieved so far and for all that is still ahead the culmination was during March, Women’s History month, when President Biden honored Vera Wang with the National Medal of Arts. Click here to see the ceremony at the White House!

The very talented AAPI Perfumers and brand creators share their visions and fragrances based on their history, while each and every one is extraordinary and unique. Enjoy the journey we take you on in May Accords!

#FragranceForwardTFF

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On April 5th, TFF celebrated the big reveal of 2023 Award Finalists at a festive lunch at Cipriani 42nd Street, hosted by TFF President Linda G. Levy and Author and TV Personality on Spectrum News NY1, Cheryl Wills. Wills effused about her love of fragrance and the role it plays in her life, and a special moment was reserved to present her inspirational book, Emma, which was given to attendees at the event’s close. Among the many big announcements of the day—Anne Flipo will be receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award at the June Awards ceremony. Previously announced, Nicolas Hieronimous, L’Oréal CEO, will be honored with the Hall of Fame Award. At the luncheon, the Finalists in 19 categories were named, as were the winners in 5 categories. Here, we spotlight Four of the Indie Fragrance of the Year Finalists, intriguing and expressive perfumes that embody the limitless creativity and passion that smaller brands bring to the world of scent.

What does it mean for you to be nominated for the TFF Indie Fragrance of the Year Award?

It is an honor to be nominated, especially among so many other deserving and innovative fragrance brands in the Indie category. We are excited Ink has resonated with so many, just like the art of tattooing this fragrance was inspired by.

What is the philosophy/guiding principle behind Akro as a brand?

Akro began when founder Anaïs Cresp was living in London. She became enraptured by the scents around her; by the flower stalls, coffee houses, charcoal grills, by the whiskey and leather of the grand old Irish pubs and the inescapable haze of weed in the air.

After a long, lost summer of indulging in everything the city had to offer, Anaïs hit on an idea; that these distinctive aromas could be bottled and turned into fragrances. Anaïs turned to her father, Master Perfumer Olivier Cresp at Firmenich, and together they began to share ideas, stories and eventually scents. Soon enough, Akro was born.

What do you believe makes Ink particularly special?

Everyone remembers their first tattoo; the fear, the sensation, the adrenaline rush, the futile attempts to hide it from your parents…

For those who’ve fallen under the spell of this ancient art, it’s much more than a bit of body decoration; it’s a reminder of a time, a place – a fleeting moment that becomes a permanent memento. In many ways, a good fragrance works similarly – something you carry on your skin, to remind you of who you were at a moment in time. At Akro, we’ve always been fascinated by the parallels between tattoos and perfumery, which is why we’ve created Ink.

What does it mean for you to be nominated for the TFF Indie Fragrance of the Year Award?

It is a great pleasure and an honor, all the team involved here is giving its best, so it’s a great reward for us to be recognized again this year.

What was the inspiration behind Santal Calling?

With French perfumer Antoine Maisondieu at Givaudan, we tried to translate our fascination for this precious and almost mystical note.

How to mix contemporary Parisian inspirations with this iconic ingredient to create a bright and soothing scent that leads to an ultimate addiction.

How do you want people to feel when they smell it?

I don’t know if all the addictions are comfortable, but this is what we wanted to create: an ultimate skin fragrance, urban, protective, reinsuring but also very sensual and totally mesmerizing. We want them to feel ultimately comfortable with it, we want people to be addicted to the notes.

What does it mean for you to be nominated for the TFF Indie Fragrance of the Year Award?

Matiere Premiere is still very new to North America, so it is a thrill and privilege to have our newest scent, Crystal Saffron, recognized in this way. We are excited to be included and congratulate all the nominees in the indie category and beyond.

What is the philosophy/guiding principle behind Matiere Premiere?

Our mission is in our name, MATIERE PREMIERE is the French for raw material. The best natural ingredients are selected from around the world, favoring ethical and organic channels. MATIERE PREMIERE perfumes contain between 85% and 92% natural ingredients, and they are vegan and phthalate free.

Aurélien Guichard, Founder and Perfumer at Takasago, also produces the house’s own roses and tuberoses at an organic farm in the Grasse region of France.

What inspired Crystal Saffron?

“I wanted to create a fragrance built around an overdose of natural Saffron, like never before.” – Aurélien Guichard, Founder and Perfumer of the House

Saffron Oil Greece is the main and extremely precious ingredient of Crystal Saffron. It is obtained from the dried stigmas of hundreds of thousands of crocus flowers, grown under the unique sun and light of Greece in the Kozani region, and is considered to be the most qualitative saffron in the world.

What does it mean for you to be nominated for the TFF Indie Fragrance of the Year Award?

It is a great honor to be nominated. I’ve been wearing Le Gris for years before bringing it to market and it’s fulfilling to see it received by the community with the same enthusiasm I feel for it.

What do you believe makes Le Gris particularly special?

Pascal Gaurin at IFF is a brilliant perfumer, and with Le Gris, he has managed to make something so complex and distinguishable; There’s a single-pointedness I find really addicting in it. It lifts me up.

What is its place in the Taffin collection as a whole?

It’s a widely appealing scent. The freshness is attractive to many, and the woods and bergamot notes connect with those who prefer stronger scents. It’s well rounded both olfactively and in terms of who is drawn to it.

On April 22nd, billions of people around the world celebrated Earth Day, marking the 53rd anniversary of the important event that was initiated in 1970. This year’s theme, Invest in Our Planet, encourages education, raising awareness, and taking action in areas encompassing climate literacy, tree-planting, reducing consumer waste, supporting sustainable fashion and more. The fragrance industry participated with a broad range of programs, discussions, and launches, finding new ways to make existing products more sustainable and communicating with consumers on multiple platforms about ingredient sourcing and eco-friendly packaging.

Several TFF member brands extended special offers to consumers. Diptyque rolled out fragrance refills beyond its New York Prince Street location (the flagship for its fragrance refill program), and Robert Piguet Parfums launched refillable 8ml sprays of popular scents Fracas, Casbah, V, and Oud.

Other brands chose to spotlight storytelling about ingredients. Bulgari Parfums focused on the new Allegra fragrance Ma’Magnifica and Magnifying Sandalwood Essence, sharing the importance of preserving and protecting Sandalwood trees, while also tying in the Allegra packaging, which comes from 80 percent recycled materials. Six Scents Parfums re-released Wolfsbane, one of Les Potions Fatales, the brand’s collection of fragrances inspired by poisonous flora, in a new clean reformulation with all-new Earth-friendly packaging, in that every element is biodegradable or recyclable. Floral Street brought Sunflower Pop, featuring sustainable sunflowers, to the foreground as a fragrance focus, and Veronique Gabai chose to highlight her use of refillable bottles and natural ingredients that are sourced ethically and sustainably. Homecourt, which uses upcycled ingredients developed with Givaudan in many fragrances and features packaging made of 100% post-consumer recycled materials, announced plans to debut a refill format.

House of Bō pushed the brand’s Conscious Luxury Campaign video, in which founder Bernardo Möller presents House of Bō’s efforts to remain as sustainable as possible, from sourcing natural and organic ingredients through using repurposed materials in the fragrance flacons. 5 SENS, meanwhile, made a $25,000 donation to the Oceanic Society, which supports global ocean cleanup reducing marine-life-imperiling plastic pollution.

Lastly, D.S. & Durga gave us all something to meditate on—literally—with the launch of a new candle, Be Still, featuring a scent of pure incense resin to encourage contemplative thought. Valuable for Earth Day, and beyond.

On June 15th, TFF will award the Perfume Extraordinaire Award to one of the finalists who dare to take risks and challenge conventions to create truly outstanding—and out of the ordinary—scents. For this month’s edition of ACCORDS, the perfumers behind 2023’s five Perfume Extraordinaire finalists reveal their inspirations and share how they brought these unique scents to life.

What was the inspiration behind BDK Parfums Gris Charnel?

Gris Charnel Extrait was born from the original, Gris Charnel EDT, a fragrance with many contrasts between luminous and dark notes. In its second chapter, the extrait, I played with quintessential creamy and enveloping notes, the notes that I love to work with the most. Rather than simply creating a more intense version of the EDT, I worked with David to intensify the notes in the fragrance that give a unique intensity. I am often asked what kind of perfume I would create for myself. Well, this would be Gris Charnel, no doubt.

What are some of the elements that make the scent unique?

I wanted to magnify the sensuality of the original signature of Gris Charnel, to be even more magnetic and captivating. I played with the different tonalities of sustainable Madagascar vanilla and vetiver bourbon to push the intensity of Gris Charnel’s powerful, woody signature. I also used one of my favorite ingredients on the MANE palette, Cardamom Pure Jungle Essence™ to bring freshness in a very elegant way.

What effect do you want the perfume to have for the wearer?

I want the wearer to feel sensual and a little enigmatic, a feeling of elusiveness that is at the same time carnal, cool and sexy as is the name, Gris Charnel.

What originally sparked the idea for D.S. & Durga Leatherize?

I wanted to make something that could turn any other perfume into “a leather.”

How does the fragrance express your style as a perfumer?

I often aim to do something classic in a modern way. Our house style often has an edge, but I always want to make wearable perfumes that bring people joy. LEATHERIZE touches upon all of these.

What effect did you want it to have for the wearer?

I think it is a transparent, kaleidoscopic leather perfume – it takes the sniffer from fresher butterscotch clean leather down to a harsher, Earthier horsey animalic leather in the drydown.

What was the inspiration behind Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade?

We wanted to do something joyful yet sensual. It started with the idea of a green explosion–I introduced the rhubarb note but balanced it with luxurious woody facets to give it an authentic elegance.

What do you believe makes the scent especially unique?
It’s a powerful and memorable scent; it’s a diffusive scent that balances the refinement of a great signature.

How did you want people to feel when they smell it?
Joyful and confident.

What was the inspiration behind Matiere Premiere Radical Rose?

In 2016, I founded an organic flower farm in the region of Grasse, near the French Riviera, where I was born. I am a 7th generation perfumer, and I have unforgettable memories of perfume flower harvests at my grandparents’. When they stopped their farming activity, it took me a few years to realize I simply could not let this amazing bond with natural ingredients and know-how collected over generations disappear. This is how I became the only Perfumer in the world to grow his own ingredients. My first plantation was Rose Centifolia. And with Radical Rose, I wanted to create the fragrance with the highest possible dosage of Rose Centifolia from Grasse.

How were the specific materials important in achieving the final effect?

Rose Centifolia from Grasse has specific olfactive qualities, due to the terroir and the way we produce it. Our farming is organic, without any pesticides, and we plant and prune our rose trees in very specific ways – In Grasse we say that a rose tree has to “fight” a little, in order to bloom with profusion. Our Rose Centifolia has a very rich, multi-faceted smell, both deep, almost dark, and also bright and airy. When you use an extreme dosage of Absolute from this Rose, all the facets express themselves almost to an excess. I’ve selected only a few ingredients, of equally high quality, to turn this wild overdose into a perfume signature that stays true to the complexity of our rose, with power and long-lastingness. I’ve used Saffron and Pepper Berries Oil from Jamaica to exacerbate the bright, spicy facets, and Patchouli Oil Indonesia and Labdanum Absolute Andalusia to highlight the dark, woody facets.

What do you believe makes the scent especially unique?

In my eyes it is unique, because at the heart of this scent are the roses I grow on my own organic farm. But above all, Radical Rose is unique because no other scent contains this much Absolute of Rose Centifolia from Grasse, because it’s a rose like no other, not the pink soft rose you could expect, but complex, like a chiaroscuro, with no pre-defined gender.

What was the inspiration behind Mind Games Gardez?

Chess is such a classical game with strong vintage ties and timeless allure. There are these layers of duality to the game—like the two players and the juxtaposition of the black and white elements of the board itself. Much of this was our inspiration. Leather is the base of Gardez and it’s a reminder of the game’s classic elements. But then a playful popcorn note brings in something unexpected.
-Emilie Copperman

I agree, chess is a game of luxury, surprise and delight, and unexpected twists and turns. A great deal of thought goes into each move. It’s all very nuanced and that was our inspiration in approaching creation. We’re like the two players in the game, working together from two regions with two points of view, Paris and New York.
-Nathalie Benareau

How does it relate to the Mind Games Fragrance line as a whole?

Mind Games, as a collection, links the strategy and brilliance of Chess, with the innovative and hypnotic effects of perfumery. The fragrances transport you to the crucial moments of competition in a test of character, skill and intellect. Gardez is an olfactive depiction of the two sides playing against each other, gracefully pulled together by the game.
-EC

What effect do you want the perfume to have for the wearer?

I want the wearer to feel the sensual, enveloping impact of this fragrance. It’s so velvety because of the leather note. And then the popcorn adds creamy indulgence. A dichotomy of strength and delicacy, Gardez reminds the wearer that they can be bold and vulnerable.
-NB

The Fragrance Foundation 2023 Awards season kicked off April 4th at our annual Luncheon event which was bigger and better than ever! At elegant Cipriani 42 on a magnificent Spring day, we had an exciting event celebration with 300+ guests. I shared the big reveal of Anne Flipo, Master Perfumer at IFF, as this year’s Lifetime Achievement Perfumer. Anne will be honored at our TFF Awards ceremony on June 15th at Lincoln Center. 

In addition to announcing the Finalists in all 19 Awards categories and 5 category winners, Indie brands were highlighted with fragrance demonstrated before the luncheon from:

Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco 

Arquiste Parfumeur Indigo Smoke     

Marc-Antoine Barrios Encelade 

Parfums Quartana Lerofante Extrait de Parfum 

Perfumehead Cosmic Cowboy 

Taffin Fragrance Le Gris

Veronique Gabai Ready for Rose 

The Phluid Project INTENTION Eau de Parfum 

Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron  

 A great surprise for the guests was our multi-talented Emcee Cheryl Wills, Author and TV Personality on Spectrum News NY1, who shared the story of her great great great grandparents Emma and Sandy Wills. Now Emma’s story continues to be shared as the books have already been passed on to TFF’s community of children, schools in NYC and more.

As sustainability is a major priority for all at TFF, members celebrated in store and online on Earth Day and more with a myriad of activities.

We look forward to a fabulous Mother’s Day in May as well as the exciting Consumer Choice Voting.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

March brings us the joy of Fragrance Day, and it is also International Women’s History Month. To celebrate this important recognition of women’s contribution across all fields, and in keeping with #FragranceForwardTFF, TFF President Linda G. Levy spoke to two very inspiring leaders in the fragrance industry: Sabrya Meflah, President, Fine Fragrance IFF, and Tricia Butler, President, Givenchy and Kenzo, North America LVMH. In video segments that made their debut as part of TFF’s Fragrance Day Virtual Event on March 21^st, Levy joined Meflah and Butler to discuss their career trajectories, accomplishments, and goals for the future. For this month’s ACCORDS, they take the time to reflect upon team building, mentorship, and the future of women in the fragrance industry (spoiler alert: it smells bright!).

You have been at IFF for 27 years in different roles. What are the biggest changes you’ve seen in the company and industry?

When I started at IFF, I was impressed to see so many empowered women who were making the industry: Mrs Lauder first and foremost, and in Europe women like Vera Strubi, Chantal Roos, Patricia Turcq Paquelier… These women deeply transformed the perfume industry. On the fragrance creation side, while the industry was mostly made up of male perfumers, IFF had a very different position from that of its competitors: perfumers like Josephine Catapano had shaped the American perfume industry, working with Mrs Lauder to create Youth Dew. Sophia Grojsman had created some of the blockbusters of the 80’s and 90’s, from Beautiful and Trésor to Eternity and Paris, paving the way for a new generation of empowered female perfumers who then joined our ranks as I started into IFF.  

These young female perfumers are now master perfumers, VP perfumers, and continue to be a role model for the next generation. We also have a strong corporate commitment, heralded by Franc Clyburn, IFF CEO: by 2030, 50% of our senior executives across IFF will be women. 

How do you foster an environment with your team so that they feel that anything is possible?

This is how I was brought up, by a mother who taught me that indeed, anything is possible, if you will it. That is my almost obsessional message to my team: if you will it, if you really will it, it is in your hands to make it happen. And I trust them completely, to make anything happen. 

What challenges do you think that women in the fragrance industry specifically face?

I don’t see specific challenges relating to our industry for women. I believe this is an industry where they have been empowered for a while now. However, there is still a glass ceiling, when I look at the small number of female CEOs. 

The beauty industry seems to be a very fertile ground when it comes to equality and diversity, if only because it is dedicated to beauty, men as much as women. It is a rallying industry and not a dividing one. Fragrance knows no borders, no race, no gender: its inclusive powers are limitless. 

Fragrance creation mirrors society, its evolution, much faster than many other industries: so let’s embrace its full diversity!

How would you describe your leadership style?

I believe everyone on our team is there because they add value and their voice matters. Communication – open, honest, thoughtful and kind, is critical and necessary to get the best out of everyone. Leadership and ownership from every chair builds a sense of belonging and commitment to the brand and to the team at large. We have been working hard to remove the standard hierarchical approach so often found in office settings in order to help us be nimble and develop skills and strategic thought processes at every level. Trust is critical and no one wins alone. I believe success is a team sport.

How do you help people find their voice and feel empowered in your team?

The short answer is you have to level the playing field. Actually accomplishing this though, really takes a lot of effort and requires the whole team to be on board in order for the forum to be a true “safe” space for EVERYONE. For me this goes back to building a culture of honest communication and feedback, in real time, on the spot. We encourage everyone on the team to have conversations with the teammate that is the subject matter expert (or can solve or remove the roadblock), this means ideas, concerns and even tough conversations. We created a Call to Courage, together as a group – we have it printed and shared it with everyone. We committed to: Leading ourselves and others with empathy, curiosity and from a place of learning (not judging). We agreed that we would have tough conversations (or provide feedback), in real time with Kindness and Clarity. And we committed to consistent collaborations and communication in order to foster a Culture of Trust. We are a work in progress but have all identified accountability partners to keep us focused and honest with ourselves as well as the others.

What is your advice for women who are embarking on careers in the fragrance industry?

I think that the path for everyone may look a little bit different but first, you need to have real clarity of what is important to you – the values that light you up and find a company/team that is similar in those focuses. This is the single best way to guarantee you look forward to getting up in the morning and going to work. Then I would say identify 1-2 people that you want to learn from and ask them to be a mentor (I believe peer mentorship is as important as having someone in that Sponsorship role) and spend scheduled quality time with them. I believe we are incredibly lucky to be in this industry, for the fact that the majority of the leaders want to share, want to build for the future and truly believe in investing in talent!

When Fragrance Day arrives on March 21st, it’s not just the first promise of spring that’s in the air. It is also a time to smell the scents of a new season, with a flurry of launches from brands big and small. Among TFF Members, there were many exciting introductions. Boy Smells debuted Emotional Illuminations, a candles-and-functional-beverages collaboration with Kin Euphorics utilizing mood-altering technology, Cartier featured Les Écrins Parfumés, a collection of scented candles, Shalini Parfum offered a limited-edition Aurora flacon, and new spritzes debuting for Fragrance Day included Clean Beauty Collective’s Apple Blossom, Diptyque’s L’Eau Papier, Elorea’s Forgotten Words Collection, Jo Malone London’s Blossom Collection, Kilian’s limited-edition Blue Moon Ginger Dash, Harlem Candle Company’s Speakeasy EDP, Kayali’s Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense, Givenchy’s Gentleman’s Society, NEST New York’s Balinese Coconut Perfume Oil, Phlur’s Solar Power, Sol de Janeiro’s Rio Radiance Perfume Mist and Michael Malul London’s collection of three new fragrances—Agar + Myrrh, Amber + Smoke, and Rose + Honey.

When it came to retailer activity, Fragrance Day 2023 was also brimming with enthusiasm and engagement, with consumers turning up to shop in person as well as following along on social media. Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy participated in a MACY’s LIVE at Herald Square, exploring new scents and dispensing tips in a very special segment that lit up Instagram and can still be watched on Macy’s home page. She also made an appearance at Nordstrom, which orchestrated a digital experience online as well as an instore celebration with multiple media outlets during which Levy discussed how to buy scents for yourself and others. Bloomingdale’s celebrated with a virtual event for Maison Francis Kurkdjian, with National Training and Events Director Joan Tanis discussing the history and creative inspiration behind the brand’s latest scent, 724 EDP; Saks promoted the day on social through Instagram and Facebook; Sephora trumpeted the scent-central day with social posts, emails in-store brand events, and offers including complimentary samples with every fragrance purchase; Victoria’s Secret Beauty and Ulta also supported the day majorly with special offers both instore and online.  

Meanwhile, TFF celebrated March 21st in a major way with exclusive virtual content from influencers, brands, fragrance houses, and leaders in the industry, all viewable on demand throughout the day and on TFF’s YouTube channel. Click here to watch content from Fragrance Day 2023! The first 1,000 US-based registrants to sign up received a complimentary Scent Journey kit, containing fragrances from TFF members including Costa Brazil, Floral Street, House of Bō, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Maison Margiela and more. There was further Fragrance Day support at TFF’s Scents of Success partners Florida State University, Spelman College, City College of New York , and F.I.T, with inspiring and educational special events that engaged students with the exciting world of fragrance as they discovered their Scent Journey Kit’s.

  Fragrance Day 2023 was bigger than ever, and yet another success. As an important moment when fragrance takes center stage and all can join together to experience, experiment, and extol the pleasure and joy it can spark, the day truly did live up to TFF’s mission: To inspire the world discover the artistry and passion of fragrance.

TFF has an ongoing partnership with The Monell Center, a nonprofit institute in Philadelphia dedicated to exploring the science of smell. Monell Research Scientist Pamela Dalton has become a regular and cherished guest in TFF’s Fragrance Day celebrations, sharing valuable, thought-provoking insight into how smell—and its loss—can affect health and mental outlook. For this year’s TFF Fragrance Day Virtual Event on March 21^st, Dalton spoke with Levy about new science surrounding COVID-19 anosmia and the research and programs that Monell is currently focusing on. Here, she shares more about what the institute is learning about smell’s relationship to the brain and emotions, and what advances we can hope to see in smell testing.

What are some of the ways that smell loss can affect people cognitively and emotionally?

Many people who lose their sense of smell often report emotional changes such as sadness and depression. Of course, some of this can be understood as grieving for the loss of the ability to enjoy food and beverage, smell the world around them and especially the smell of a loved one. However, the close interaction between the olfactory structures in the brain and the limbic system (i.e., emotional center) structures strongly suggests that the lack of olfactory input can disrupt emotional processing as well.

Olfactory decline is associated with cognitive impairments, and that has largely been attributed to the fact that the central brain structures involved in olfaction are often the first location of impact in neurodegenerative diseases. However, more recent discussion has centered around whether lack of input or stimulation to the olfactory brain structures is what is responsible for the onset of neurodegeneration, the appearance of plaques and tangles in the primary olfactory cortex. Sadly, we will have an opportunity to find this out as we now have many millions of people worldwide, often younger individuals, who have not yet and may not ever recover from COVID-19 related smell loss.

What are some of the current programs and specific research channels that you are working on now? 

Our lab and others at Monell are still working on developing and deploying our rapid smell test called SCENTinel, which was originally conceived as a way to screen for a virus like SARS-COV-2, which manifested initially in dramatic loss of smell. We hope to utilize this test in a study of adults at risk for neurodegenerative diseases as a way to separate which aspects of olfactory function are impacted in each disorder, thereby leading to an earlier and more specific diagnosis. We are also interested in working on promoting the concept of universal smell testing in order to fully characterize this important sensory system across all age groups and importantly, to be able to track changes that may signify other types of disease or illness. Monell will host a 2-day conference in November that will bring together scientists, physicians and hopefully patients to further this goal. Our Patient Centered Outcomes Research Institute funded survey that recruited over 6000 people in just 3 weeks gave us great insight into how devastating the loss of smell can be and that there is insufficient information about treatment and resources, even among physicians, for patients to access.

This year The Fragrance Day and surrounding days were BIGGER than ever! We are growing participation beyond the fragrance community by engaging consumers through our online events, retail events and major TV exposure across the USA!

TFF premiered on March 21st to an online audience of nearly 8,000 pre-registered viewers of which half were consumers! TFF members’ exclusive content includes participation by brands, Fragrance Houses, Perfumers, The Monell Center and so much more! All this great content continues to be accessible, so please visit our Youtube Channel to view all the fabulous Fragrance Day content on demand! 

As we celebrate the final days of Women’s History Month, Sabrya Meflah of IFF and Tricia Butler of LVMH share how they inspire their teams in this issue of Accords, with further insights based on their Fragrance Day discussions with me. Dr. Pam Dalton from the Monell Center provided further updates on the sense of smell research.

My TV tour was an exciting Fragrance Day marathon with 8 MILLION media impressions, with 10 in market and national TV interviews + 7 online features. While I was in person in the studio here in New York City for NY1 Spectrum with Cheryl Wills In Focus series for Women in Business, the Spring TV Tour from TFF’s office studio included appearances covering several states across the nation.

Fragrance Day’s major activities also included student interactive events to celebrate with our Scents of Success partners at The City College of New York, Spelman College, Florida State University and the Fashion Institute of Technology. TFF’s Sharné Jackson and Cheryl Fried partnered with brand teams from Givenchy, NEST New York and more bringing Fragrance Day to the campuses.

We look forward to more scent journeys with you this Spring as The Fragrance Foundation Awards season gets underway!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On February 15th, The Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy was honored with the first-ever Catalyst Award from the New York Urban League. Presented at New York City’s Plaza Hotel during the NYUL 2023 Champions of Diversity Event, it was a thrilling moment for Levy and a momentous recognition of her leadership in advancing Diversity, Equity and Inclusion within the fragrance industry.

The New York Urban League is one of the nation’s oldest civil rights organizations, dedicated to furthering economic empowerment, career development, job training, education, mentorship and health advocacy for New York’s underserved BIPOC communities. This year’s Champions of Diversity celebration kicked off with a breakfast and morning Symposium that included insightful sessions on Leading While Black and Brown, with Chris Collins of World of Chris Collins among the panelists, and Emerging Trends in DEI, for which TFF’s Executive Director Sharné C. Jackson shared her knowledge and expertise alongside Corey Smith from LVMH, Sharon Foretia from Blackrock, and Chris Metzler from National Urban League.

Joined by more than 250 leaders from the fragrance industry and beyond, the Champions Awards presentations took place over a lunch hosted by Arva Rice, President and CEO of New York Urban League, emceed by WNBC-TV anchor David Ushery, and chaired by Helen C. Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer at FINN Partners and NYUL Board Member. Levy’s Catalyst Award was accompanied with a video tribute in which friends and colleagues praised her vision and commitment to galvanizing DEI within the fragrance industry, including Fragrance Society Founder Tiff Benson; Tricia Butler, President, Givenchy and Kenzo, North America, LVMH; Chris Collins, Founder World of Chris Collins; Ann Gottlieb, President, Anne Gottlieb Associates; Sharné Jackson, Executive Director, TFF; Nicole Monson, Senior Vice President, Estée Lauder Companies; Giancarlo Pérez and Bernardo Möller, founders, House of Bō; Linda Song, senior perfumer, Givaudan; and, Jerry Vittoria, TFF’s Board Chairman and President, Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich.

Levy’s TFF presidency has been defined by her tenacious drive to equalize and democratize the industry, expanding TFF membership and spearheading #FragranceForwardTFF, the sweeping initiative that launched in October 2021. Just as she has reshaped the goals of TFF to direct the organization towards an equitable future in which all voices are heard, she has inspired the industry to take a pledge to increase workplace diversity and create career and educational opportunities through mentorships, scholarships, proactive recruitment and allyship. As Vittoria states in his tribute, “Linda has always been a catalyst of change, a catalyst of courage and a catalyst of doing the right thing. She puts DEI at the forefront of all TFF activities and is dedicated to bringing people together and opening the door for the exciting possibilities that the fragrance industry offers.”

The day was a triumph and inspiration for attendees as well as for Levy’s fellow Champions Awards recipients: Kim Davis, Senior Executive Vice President, National Hockey League, who was named Leadership Champion; HR&A Advisors, named Champion in Recruitment, Retention & Belonging; Clarissa Moses-Washington, Manager of DEI, JetBlue Airways, named Rising Star Champion; and Kenneth Ebie, Executive Director, Black Entrepreneurs NYC, named Equity & Inclusion Ambassador. And, in keeping with TFF’s ongoing drive to forge new initiatives that create lasting change, the NYUL 2023 Champions of Diversity Event introduced the Fragrance Foundation Catalyst Initiative, a partnership that will benefit NYUL’s Diversity Lab and provide training, career development, mentorship, and job opportunities for professionals of color interested in careers in the fragrance industry. The initiative is supported by all 200+ TFF member companies in a focused effort, including Fragrance Houses, Brands, Retailers and related businesses.

The Fragrance Foundation’s annual Notables awards ceremony is one of the most anticipated—and often, truly moving—events on the fragrance industry calendar. The 18 individuals who were inducted into the Notables Class of 2023 on February 7^th at the Hudson Yards headquarters of L’Oreal Luxe embody all of the qualities that make the scent world so inspiring: passion, creativity, initiative, and advocacy. In this month’s Accords, we celebrate the new TFF Notables, all of whom are dedicated to upholding the #FragranceForwardTFF DEI pledge. They share what the honor means to them, and what they look forward to as they join the growing Notables Think Tank to brainstorm initiatives that will continue to energize and galvanize progress in the industry and beyond.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

This incredible industry is filled with so much talent, so I truly mean it when I say I am honored to be recognized. I look forward to learning and collaborating with this amazing group both past and present, as we continue to push boundaries within the fragrance industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable? 

I am constantly pushing myself to deliver high-class products to keep my brand relevant and top of mind. As I collaborate with Notable fragrance professionals, I look forward to instilling a sense of purpose into how we are thinking about product development whether that be through product innovation, sustainability, or getting product to counter in the most efficient way.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am very proud and grateful to have been named a TFF Notable.

It is a privilege to work in fragrance and even more to be recognized by my peers and The Fragrance Foundation. I am very excited to join this group of talented individuals and to impact the new generation by sharing my experience in this incredible industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

Having lived in Europe, Asia and America, I will bring my multicultural experience and insights to the young people in the industry. I will always bring positivity and energy into the room.

With my experience in Global and Local Marketing positions, I have the understanding of the full creative process from the blank page to the bottle of fragrance on shelf all over the world including consumer insights, product mix, media and channel strategies. As an ambassador of the #FragranceForwardTFF movement, my focus will be to educate and promote DEI in the inclusive and open world of scent.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am honored to join this esteemed group of 2023 notables and support The Fragrance Foundation in so many magnificent initiatives this year. I’m so excited to have the opportunity to get to know and share new and innovative ideas and learn from my fellow Notables. Together we will collectively be contributing to the growth, awareness and future of our industry, and it will be the most rewarding aspect of this incredible honor and opportunity.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I will bring my expertise and insight to the table as a 2023 Notable. My approach is always a 360 view. All training I create at Bulgari Parfums is through the eyes of an educator, a client and a client advisor. I believe being able to share experiences of how to properly train our teams not only to sell fragrance but engage our clients and bring out the emotions within them through fragrance will contribute to our initiatives and industry elevation throughout the year and beyond.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am excited to be a part of a growing group of industry professionals whose main goal is to constantly evolve the fragrance industry in a positive direction. I look forward to meeting with the notables at the quarterly Think Tanks to strategize and brainstorm on important topics that are affecting our industry – today and in the future.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I have a unique role at L’Oréal. Not only am I the only fine fragrance expert based in North America, but I am also very integrated into the Ralph Lauren global marketing team and lead their fragrance development process. With this background, I have developed and refined a few skills: love of fragrances; knowledge of raw materials, natural ingredients and sourcing; being able to define a brand’s olfactive philosophy; understanding and translating marketing language to perfumery language; engaging with a consumer through product testing; investigating challenges and brainstorming solutions; working with many cross-functional teams at a time on multiple projects.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I feel very privileged to be included in such a remarkable group of talented individuals all paving their way within the fragrance industry. I look forward to having the opportunity to learn from this network but also contribute in upcoming Think Tanks, which will hopefully foster new ideas and deepen education tools available to expand our community.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I am able to bring a global perspective, merging both my experience in fashion and beauty, to shine a spotlight on the magical world of fragrance and the boundless memories and diverse places it can transport you to.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

Having worked on leading fragrance brands like Yves Saint Laurent and currently Maison Margiela fragrances, I have had the opportunity to use the power of scent to create fragrances that engage and bring joy to our consumers. As a TFF Notable, I am excited to continue to engage and educate consumers on not only the inspiration, but also the emotional connection of fragrance.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I look forward to massively accelerating consumer connections. At L’Oréal, it is our mission to build deeper consumer relationships, to retain high value customers and increase their lifetime value. I strive to continue to use testing, insights and analysis to put the consumer first, at the center of all decisions.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

Fragrance holds a very special place in my heart. It is so much more than what meets the nose. In times of self-doubt, it has brought me confidence. In times of discomfort, it has brought me solace by transporting me to memories of joy and happiness. What excites me about being a Notable is the privilege of serving as an ambassador for the fragrance industry and The Fragrance Foundation. This platform will allow me to share my passion for fragrance, inspire future leaders and educate those who would otherwise be unfamiliar with everything this beautiful industry has to offer.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

As a Muslim and proud Veteran, I am very passionate about all the work that The Fragrance Foundation has done with #FragranceForwardTFF. I commit to support these efforts by continuing to challenge the status quo and deepening my understanding of people’s diverse experiences and identities to create more inclusive fragrances. I will leverage a test and learn mindset to create marketing campaigns that deepen consumer connections and grow the category.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am very excited to be part of this impressive cohort of people that demonstrate such dedication and passion for the fragrance category and our continuous discussions on how we can contribute to a more equitable and ever evolving industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

A never ending quest for understanding how consumers see and interact with the category and to keep finding new ways to make the experience of finding, wearing and learning the stories behind each fragrance simple, relevant, accessible and delightful; throughout the entire 360 experience.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

We discovered at the Notables Breakfast that the majority of the Class of 2023 never aspired to work in the fragrance industry, as most of us did not know this was an option at the onset of our careers, yet each of us shared such passion for what we do! Despite having different backgrounds and roles, our collective love of fragrance was visceral and radiating within the walls of the TFF offices that morning! I am beyond thrilled to have been nominated by Firmenich, awarded by TFF and join this distinguished group of gifted creatives! I look forward to partnering with the amazing team at TFF as part of the Notables Think Tank and on their DEI initiatives to ensure that the next generation of talent is aware of the amazing opportunities within this industry.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Growing up, I imagined that by 2023 we would be able to teleport or time travel. While sadly (especially for those of us that commute) physical teleportation is not yet a reality, the magic of fragrance is that it can and does immediately transport us – with one breath, we can be instantaneously brought back to a cherished childhood memory or a destination halfway around the world, or even feel enveloped by a loved one that is no longer with us! At Firmenich, the creativity of our perfumers allows us to transport over 4 billion customers several times throughout their day!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a wonderful recognition for the passion I bring to work every day. I feel very honored and grateful.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

As Perfumer, the answer seems to be obvious for me: by creating fragrances. Also, I believe that the passion for fragrances is closely linked to the passion for raw materials, whether they are naturals or synthetics. Working within a fragrance house enables me to highlight these raw materials. I particularly like to use natural essential oils from Maison LAUTIER because being part of Symrise I know better the supply chain and feel closer to the raw material, they smell amazing. There is also a sustainable aspect that I like by empowering women and local communities. Then, together with the customer’s vision, we give life to the fragrance and hopefully inspire the world.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I’m still absorbing this amazing recognition. Our industry is full of stand out talent and I am very happy to be counted among them.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

My favorite experiences in fragrance houses over the years have been working with incredibly diverse and talented perfumers. I work with them to uncover the stories, the secrets, and the signature entwined within each creation. My goal is to teach a new generation of evaluators to look deeper, and to take the time to give meaning and soul to a fragrance creation. A “story full” fragrance connects and enchants and lives and breathes. That is a powerful tool to connect people everywhere.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It simply means the world to me! I have admired The Fragrance Foundation as long as I have been in the industry so to be able to be a part of the TFF family, especially being able to represent a company like Givaudan at the same time is a dream come true.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I adore working at a fragrance house and being at the true center of creation. The opportunity to work with the best perfumers in the industry to create fragrances that have a tangible and lasting effect on the consumers is something I am grateful for every day.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I am particularly touched to have been nominated by IFF as the 2023 Notable. It is wonderful to have within our Industry an organization such as The Fragrance Foundation and its key members who relentlessly develop meaningful programs, highlighting individuals in different roles and great causes to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance, and aiming at sparking career aspirations for upcoming generations.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

The adventure of crafting a fragrance is fascinating, the magical story that goes with it, working alongside incredibly talented artists, our perfumers, hand in hand with our clients and partners, drawing on the past to create the future of fragrances to awaken the extraordinary senses for a better world. Being able to share this passion with others, whether neophytes or experts is always highly gratifying!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a huge honor to be named a TFF Notable, and I am truly grateful to be a part of the Notables Crew! We all share a genuine passion for fragrance, which is the driving force behind TFF’s Mission. I am looking forward to my first Think Tank, because it is an opportunity for my voice and unique ideas to be heard, while also making a positive impact.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

There is a deep connection between scent and memory. Unlike anything else, fragrance can conjure up memories of the past or become something new altogether. Scent is a very powerful tool because it is so closely tied into your emotions. In a way, fragrance makes you feel something. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to inspire and connect with people through my perfumery work.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

Being named a TFF Notable is an incredible honor and humbling experience, yet a great source of pride. It signifies not only hard work and dedication, but also recognition and appreciation from the leading experts of the industry. One of the many responsibilities that comes with being a Notable includes driving the TFF initiative forward. My goal is to spread awareness of the benefits of fragrances and how the industry is diverse, equitable, and inclusive.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

It provides unique opportunities to connect with customers, creators, and the wider industry to build relationships, inspire meaningful conversations and promote awareness of the craft and experience of fragrances. By utilizing my regulatory expertise to develop an educational presence, the complexities of fragrance creation and the ever changing regulatory landscape and scientific aspects of the artistry of perfumery can be brought to light. Working at Robertet offers the invaluable opportunity to bring joy and inspire others to discover the world of fragrance.

What a great way to celebrate Black History Month! 

The New York Urban League honored me and The Fragrance Foundation for its first-ever Catalyst Award. The Champions Awards symposium and luncheon at The Plaza in NYC was attended by many TFF Board members and members of the fragrance community. The half day event gave all attendees an opportunity to learn about NYUL programs and meet their talented team. This was the official launch of The Fragrance Foundation Catalyst Initiative, which will benefit NYUL’s Diversity & Inclusion Lab and provide training, career development, mentorship and job opportunities for professionals of color interested in careers in the fragrance industry. 

Thank you to Arva Rice, NYUL CEO, and Helen Shelton, Chair of this event and Chief Diversity and Inclusion Officer at Finn Partners. Helen and our Executive Director Sharné Jackson at TFF have been valued partners for their vision, guidance and implementation of TFF’s DEI initiative #FragranceForwardTFF. 

There was huge media outreach, as well as many in the media reaching out to us, with results that are monumental. The TV coverage, as well as far reaching media online, brought our industry initiative to the forefront. Now #FragranceForwardTFF has been amplified to the entire USA big time, and we will continue to galvanize the community uniting all for our #1 priority DEI.

February was also a milestone for the first in person Notables event after the last two years celebrating virtually. With L’Oréal Luxe as our generous hosts at their Hudson Yards Le Café, the evening celebration was fabulous and each 2023 Notable shared their passion for fragrance and their personal dedication to #FragranceForwardTFF. In this issue of Accords, you can learn more about these truly Notable individuals who we value to join the Notables Think Tank and contribute to our TFF future!

Next month we look forward to celebrating The Fragrance Day on March 21st and the weeks around that date, as well as International Women’s History Month!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

TFF is hitting the ground running in 2023, planning the year’s exciting events (stay tuned) and kicking off another 12 months of community, communication and commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF. We are also welcoming new faces to the TFF Board of Directors, a group of esteemed individuals whose experience, ideas and talent are vital to TFF and all we hope to achieve. For the January Spotlight of ACCORDS, three new board members—Agnes Landau, Lori Singer, and Verane de Marffy–each of whom oversee multiple brands and unite multiple voices, take a moment to share their thoughts on being newly elected to represent their company and how they intend to drive TFF’s vision and DEI mission forward in the coming year.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

L’Oréal is now the #1 luxury fragrance company in the US and I am extremely proud to be celebrating my 20th year with the group. Having worked on some of the top brands in our industry like Ralph Lauren and Yves Saint Laurent Fragrances, L’Oréal has always commanded the highest standards for our fragrances, from sourcing responsibly to deeply respecting each perfumer, to ensuring the quintessential essence of each brand. Our teams at L’Oréal are profoundly committed to creating Fragrances that engage, educate and bring joy to consumers. Now, L’Oréal is putting sustainability at the heart of its vision. TFF is the premiere representative of our community and shares the same values as L’Oréal. By joining the board, I can work with other amazing leaders to help create programs and actions that help advance both L’Oréal’s and the TFF’s missions.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

First of all, we have the credibility, the scale, the resources and the responsibility to drive TFF’s mission. From Lifestyle brands like Ralph Lauren, to Couture brands like Prada to the Collection brands like Maison Margiela, L’Oréal’s extremely wide portfolio allows us to drive that passion and engagement for people from all backgrounds. Fragrance is a luxury but it should be inclusive and make everyone dream. With our retail partners especially, we work together to bring the best quality and experience of fragrances to all.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

I am particularly excited about supporting TFF’s mission to break barriers for people of all backgrounds to launch, grow and sustain careers in fragrances. This is probably the biggest opportunity for our industry today. DEI also happens to be a key priority for the L’Oréal group. Personally, I have already committed to recruiting even more diversity in my team, which is particularly key as we look to ensure that our fragrances respect the needs and perspectives of our end consumer. Another way to take action is to ensure that our campaigns have diverse representation. A recent example is the renovation of the Ralph Lauren Romance campaign, which has traditionally featured a Caucasian straight couple and now stars a bi-racial lesbian couple. I feel extremely proud of this move, especially since the Ralph Lauren brand has always been a very active supporter of LGBTQA+ rights. Finally, I have volunteered to participate in the DEI initiative at TFF as well as join the education committee. This is the one that I am most excited about. I am very passionate about helping young adults to discover our industry and hopefully support to educate the next generation of Fragrance professionals.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

At Parlux, I work with an incredible roster of multi-faceted brands and talent, which gives me first hand insights to pop culture, sustainable practices and futuristic web 3 metaverse opportunities and more!  I am extremely passionate about the fragrance industry and want to share my experience with the TFF board and bring new ideas to the table. I am so excited to be amongst my industry peers to continue the art of fragrance storytelling, to a wider audience. 

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Parlux fosters a culture of excellence and creativity, and this discipline is in lock step with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. My team and I create the most compelling fragrances and brand campaigns that spark connection and emotions. Our fragrances evoke memories such as feeling joy, falling in love, getting married or re-living a dreamy vacation.

We are committed to putting the customer first, creating new and evocative fragrances to be an affordable luxury that brings a spark of je ne sais quoi to the world.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

The Parlux portfolio consists of diverse fashion brands and talent who have been on our roster for decades. I am committed to increasing our DEI roster with new brands and am already having some amazing conversations (shhhh!). I am very proud of the talented and diverse team that I have built at Parlux. With this experience, I am already taking action and committed to help the advancement of DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

First of all, I have a deep passion for fragrance and its power to transform. I am also very excited to be the first Latina in The Fragrance Foundation Board of Directors. Latina consumers are very sophisticated and highly involved in the fragrance category. As the population in the US shifts and the proportions of people of color increases, I believe this bodes well for the category overall.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I think the Shiseido fragrance business perfectly aligns with The Fragrance Foundation mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. The Shiseido fragrance stable is composed of some of the most notable and iconic names in the fragrance industry; Hermes, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake, Tory Burch, to name a few. We at Shiseido share a deep passion and respect for the artistry and craftsmanship involved in creating a fragrance.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

I believe that we always start with what we can immediately impact. Therefore, bringing more people of color into the organization in my case, Shiseido is a top priority for me. We need those voices at the table if we want to really address their needs. Being the first Hispanic in the Board of Directors of TFF, I think it is also my duty to use my voice and position to bring others along.

Two more fragrance industry veterans who will be taking a TFF Board of Directors seat this year bring unique perspectives: Larry Berman of Arcade Beauty, whose leading role in sampling, blending and fragrance filling puts him and his company at the intersection of diverse brands and at the forefront of new experiences for the customer; and Vanessa Dabich, who brings her energy and expertise to Strategy, New Ventures, and Communication at the historic House of Creed. Here, they reflect on what joining the TFF Board means to them and how their commitment to #ForwardTFF will galvanize positive change within the fragrance world.

What does it mean for you personally to join the TFF board?

As I have been in the industry for over 30 years, I have always admired the leaders in the industry and have fond memories of my very first Fifi awards. I remember the week or two after the awards, waiting for Cosmetic World to deliver to our office, so we could see not only if our picture made it into the extra-large edition, but all of the glamor that accompanied the night. Additionally, as the foundation has provided so much for the industry that I have loved for so many years, I am thrilled to be able to spend my time helping give back as well.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Being part of Arcade Beauty, the global leader in sampling, blending, and fragrance filling, I am constantly experiencing not only new fragrances, but also new up and coming brands as well. I love hearing their stories behind their fragrances and I enjoy the excitement that they have in launching something they created. We frequently lower our MOQ’s ( minimum order quantities) to help the Indie Brands grow, as we know they may not have the volume that the larger brands have, and we are also willing to help partner with them on pricing so we can grow together.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

One of Arcade Beauty’s social objectives is promoting diversity as well as preventing discrimination and harassment at the workplace. I currently have a very diverse sales team and continue to ensure that our leadership team is interviewing and hiring from a large pool of backgrounds. Additionally, in my personal life, I am very involved in a non-profit organization run by my wife, named The Bass Foundation. The Bass Foundation provides food, winter coats, mentoring, and academic scholarships for the underserved communities in New Jersey. This month was one of our largest events where we were able to distribute brand new winter coats to every student at the Louverture Elementary School in East Orange, NJ.

What does it mean for you personally to join the TFF board?

TFF is such a prestigious organization. It’s a true honor to join the TFF board with such esteemed industry colleagues. I’m excited to learn more from this incredible group and help to better serve the fragrance community together.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I love and respect TFF mission. Our work at The House of Creed is truly in sync with these values.  Fragrance inspires people in so many ways and to work in an industry that can transport with one spritz, is awe inspiring. 

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF

DEI is an important cornerstone of all meaningful growth and change not just at our company, but within the industry and obviously our daily lives. I’m committed to making significant in-roads through meaningful, inclusive programming working with diverse content creators and business partners.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In the past few years, we have seen more clean fragrances and I think that 2023 will be a year where we will see more sensual/warm scents emerging. I think that now after Covid, people are going out more and starting to wear bolder scents like big woods that can be attractive. I think we will also continue to see more gender fluid scents as people are wearing what they enjoy versus based on gender.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

I think that the digital world is having more impact than ever on consumers and how they engage with the world and, in turn, with their scent. This is something I believe we will see more of in store and through scent experiential moments.

For both personal and for home, I feel that the consumer is conscious to select a scent that they love, regardless of any gender or marketing or note, but based on how they feel as they want their home to smell pleasant and relaxing but still enjoy the scent they personally wear through the day.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

The emotional power of scent will play a vital role in how consumers engage with fragrance for themselves and their homes. Givaudan studies reveal that 89% of people believe that a fragrance can improve their overall well being. They are looking for “feel-good” elements in their lives, now more than ever. Scent has the power to trigger emotions and consumers have come to expect that fragrance can and should do more than just smell good. 

Our research also shows that consumers now have a greater sense of self and their motivation for fragrance has shifted to a place of self-empowerment, self-expression and the belief that they are worth it. This has led to a greater exploration of scent experiences and new territories as consumers look for ways to feed their need for individualism and emotion-led scent.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We see the emergence of scents that allow for an escape into nature, reimagined for a generation in search of new connections. Authentic green notes and sea accords, infused with mindful adventure. We also envision scents that reestablish consumers’ sense of self and purpose, fueling new expressions of optimism and spirituality. Feather-like notes with comforting and cocooning elements that are incredibly personal and profound, amplifying the effect of the time we spend with ourselves and reflecting the influence of spirituality and higher powers. As consumers seek balance, inclusivity and positive energy, we will see the emergence of fragrances that bring energy and focus, including bright citruses, calming accords, energizing aromatics and blooming florals.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

We predict a continued shift towards playful and comforting scents that offer mood-boosting benefits. We can expect to see cherry and berry notes taking center stage while new interpretations of rose and Gen Z favorite, vanilla, will make a comeback. Soft and delicate yellow mimosa flower, a popular fragrance ingredient in Europe, is now making its way into American perfumery with launches such as Eauso Vert’s Sintra, created by IFF perfumer Pascal Gaurin using our LMR natural Mimosa by IFF.

We’ve also seen an increase in barely-there, second skin fragrances that we expect to evolve into warmer, musky scents interpreted in solar, salted, and milky spaces with spice or fruity combinations. We see this trend accelerating through the innovation from molecules like AmberNat, IFF’s first renewable and biodegradable Amber captive. We also expect an increase in woody and darker, leathery scents, thanks to ingredients such as LMR upcycled Oakwood absolute, found in Scents of Wood Oak in Oak, or IFF soft leather-smelling Saffiano.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We foresee the consumer engaging with fragrances as a form of self-care, with wellness and aromatherapy benefits emerging as a key purchase driver. Smart sourcing will also impact fragrance purchases, with consumers gravitating toward transparent brands looking into greener ingredients. We predict an increase in digital activations among fragrance brands and expansion in the metaverse. We will see brands interacting with consumers in new ways such as digital shopping, NFT’s and digital fragrances. TikTok, which now accounts for 45% of social media-driven fragrance sales, will continue growing in popularity through the #PerfumeTok. We also predict brands will re-launch discontinued cult classic fragrances for a nostalgic, positive feel and to support customer loyalty. 

We’re also seeing a continued growth of luxury home scents, with a growing number of brands addressing that segment with haute-perfumery positioning: Ginori 1735 with its playful Luke Edward Hall launch, the relaunch of Paul Smith home fragrances, the continued success of Frederic Malle, diptyque, Nette, and other such brands.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In 2023, we’ll continue to see consumers looking to fragrance as a means of self-expression and ultimately to express individuality. Much of this will be captured with disruptive and unexpected combinations of notes that are intentionally imagined by perfumers to spark contrast. Boy Smells’ new Woodphoria launch is the perfect example of this – where notes of cardamom, black pepper, and fig in isolation are incredibly different but nevertheless compelling when combined.

At the same time, genderful launches will be on the rise as the lines have become increasingly blurred across all categories of fragrances. Sustainable storytelling will also continue to evolve and become even more paramount to consumers as they continue to prioritize caring for the planet.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

Scentscaping has become a household term overnight! Consumers are looking to elevate their home space using and experimenting with home fragrances via traditional methods (candles, reed diffusers), but also exploring new technologies – automated, app-enabled diffusers and more. So inevitably the interest and therefore investment level in home fragrance has greatly increased. Many of the fine fragrance trends will also be reflected in the home – consumers will be considering how to select a home scent that ultimately delivers on self-expression and speaks to the desire to find a unique home signature scent. And just like with fine fragrance, consumers will also be more tuned in to ingredient safety and sustainability.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

Evolved, unique greens will make their way into fragrances as notes of plant leaves emerge with a nuanced approach to the fresh palette. We can look forward to fresh-cut herbs, plush mosses, green teas, and anything that smells green becoming even more popular—it puts us in touch with our natural connection to earth. 

Big blooming bouquets reminiscent of the 80s are back to make a statement, partially due to nostalgia, but also because consumers want to indulge in concentrated and qualitative, long-lasting juices, and they are willing to pay more for it. Departing from intimate, clean scents, the new year will see fragrances with rich heart notes made up of intense florals to evoke a romantic, feminine aura.

Genderless woods will be everywhere, evolving into more smoky silhouettes highlighting resins, myrrh and smoky woods like oud. 

Viva Magenta is the 2023 color of the year, so we also anticipate seeing the color come to life in the fragrance world as it’s predicted that Red Berry will continue to be a rising star inclusive of Raspberry, Strawberry, and Lychee notes.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee? 

Transportive fragrances will take people out of their homes and into a scented escape, as well as happy and nostalgic scents that continue to resonate with consumers seeking joy in everyday moments.

More than 60% of consumers are interested in seeing their home scents in personal care forms, so we can expect to see more brands play cross categories, offering the same scent across product forms. This may elevate everyday categories as well, as luxe enters home and personal care.

Consumers are going to be looking for premium products that they love at an affordable price. That said, they are willing to pay more than in the past for high-quality and uniqueness.

People may also start to shift away from the celebrity and name-brand fragrances to instead shop fragrances that really speak to them, their individuality and their personality.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

At Takasago we have identified several macro trends that have implications for Fine Fragrance and CPG categories in 2023 and beyond. During uncertain times of volatility and stress, people seek out fragrances that will help them regulate their mood. We have seen fine fragrance, air care and personal care launches featuring comforting gourmand, woody and amber notes that wrap you in a gentle cocoon of coziness. We expect that will continue into 2023, and we will continue to find new ways to express this comforting sensation.

There is nothing that can clear the mind quite like time spent outdoors, immersing ourselves in the simple yet majestic beauty of nature. With a renewed focus on eco-responsibility, fragrance notes that bring us closer to transformative outdoor experiences are resonating. In 2023 we will see more leafy greens, clean herbal aromatic and gorgeous floral notes that allow us to dream and be transported to places both real and imagined.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We are closely monitoring retail trends and consumer habits related to fragrance and are very excited about what the future holds for our industry. We believe the next wave of hyper sensorial experiences both at retail and online are emerging with hugely positive implications for our brand partners. Takasago is unveiling our new Metaverse platform in 1Q 2023, where we will be engaging with clients and consumers to unveil the next frontier in connecting, collaborating, co-creating and creativity.

The New Year 2023 has begun with a major lift off as we all are moving forward at a velocity we have not been able to activate or maintain for the past few years. While challenges will continue and possibly accelerate, growth and reinvention are key to our success.

We at TFF are welcoming new Directors to our Board, with several featured in this issue. Some we have known for years, and all are in exciting positions for which we value their fresh perspectives and appreciate their support and contributions. 

Starting this month, together with all of the Board, we are formulating plans and exchanging ideas to build the future together based on our mission and objectives. New initiatives will unfold in the coming months and our newly formed TFF Committees will define strategies and action plans for DEI, Education, Sustainability and Consumer Engagement. All we achieve will include #FragranceForwardTFF expanding our community; welcoming and celebrating all! 

This issue also includes the forecast and commentary from Fragrance Houses who share their 2023 visions for ingredients and consumer fragrance habits. The trends and ingredients evolve based on scientific discoveries, cultural shifts and ever changing lifestyles, so while we find some shared predictions, each of the houses also have unique insights.

All of us at TFF look forward to in person events in the next months with you all, as well as all you can share socially online to keep us updated. As we celebrate the Lunar New Year we look to the year of the Rabbit which predicts longevity, peace and prosperity, which we wish for all in the fragrance community and beyond!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

2022 was an exciting time for TFF and for the fragrance industry as a whole. Coming together again in new ways—both IRL and digital–and working towards a more diverse, inclusive future were major themes for all. For the final issue of ACCORDS in 2022, TFF asked board members to reflect on some of the changes and achievements they witnessed over the past year. In regard to TFF’s biggest priority, #FragranceForwardTFF, all agree that major strides had been made and that there was an overall championing of fresh voices and faces. “There is a greater sense of community and inclusion across all touchpoints,” says Tricia Butler, President North America Parfums Givenchy, Kenzo Parfums, Acqua di Parma, LVMH. “There is a definite sense of pride and an increase in participation” throughout the fragrance world.

“Acknowledging the reality and ‘previous’ state of the industry, while seemingly an easy task, was a major first step,” says Pierre Wulff, Director, Robertet Group. “Starting this conversation, driving awareness of the industry’s shortcomings, its lack of representation and inclusivity, and ultimately prioritizing it and making it part of the everyday conversation has been an exciting and inspiring shift. With this, we’ve already started to see more representation in the industry, more newcomers, and more spotlights and even major investments in brands previously overlooked.”

“I’ve seen a true focus being put on changing the landscape to a more inclusive one, through efforts made to nurture diverse talent and to help ensure that the fragrance industry represents and champions diversity in all its forms,” says Jerry Vittoria, Chairman TFF and President Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich. “This has taken shape in the form of more educational outreach such as panels and webcasts, creating features that highlight new founders, and putting together scholarships to attract the younger generations. Overall, there’s a united goal of setting a high standard of excellence, encouraging the beauty community as a whole to reflect the perspectives of, and in turn better serve, the consumers we create for.”

The fragrance consumer shifted in 2022, as world circumstances and individual behavior continued to evolve. “Fragrance continues to be a category where consumers have deep passion, both for themselves and for gifting,” says Penny Coy, VP Merchandising, Prestige Skincare and Fragrance ULTA. “Interestingly, throughout the pandemic consumers expanded engagement with fragrance as they began to more regularly layer scents into their personal rotation, creating different use cases for different brands. As they explore the category, consumers have continually gravitated towards newness this year – whether a new brand or new product from established fragrance brands. We’re seeing Gen Z embrace fragrance more regularly as TikTok continues to fuel fragrance chatter and trends, creating opportunities for all brands in the space to establish and nurture consumer relationships.” Butler noted that “There are more fragrance consumers. We are seeing a younger consumer and an increase in male consumers. EDPs, Parfums and stronger concentrations are on the rise.”

“Today’s consumer goes beyond gender or normal segmentations—instead today we focus on fragrances that suit a personality or evoke an emotion,” says Vittoria. “In turn, the shopping behaviors have adapted and we find that consumers are now going through multi-channels and are well informed and more purposeful in their selections. They are looking for brands that have an authentic voice with values they can relate to such as in sustainability and diversity efforts.”

These days, says Wulff, the fragrance consumer is “Everyone! The person looking for self-care solutions, the person looking to indulge, treat themselves, stay curious and engaged, and of course, the existing fragrance obsessed. As fragrance has become paramount in everything we consume and surround ourselves with – our homes, our work space, our beauty routines, entertainment and more – there is a growing audience and interest in the category and desire to infuse it in all lifestyles and aspects of our lives.”

For Julianne Pruett, VP Fine Fragrance Sales, Symrise the biggest change was “level-setting post pandemic. Back to live, in-person interaction means a decline in home care (candles) vs 2020/21 and an increase in EDT/colognes (going out, back to office) coupled with an increase in sales at brick & mortar stores vs peak of online. However, the online overall increase from 2019 is here to stay.”

More than anything, perhaps, fragrance continued to be a beacon of joy for consumers, and a way to connect with themselves and each other. “In a world suffering from unprecedented divisions, war and insecurity, the fragrance category is playing its role in terms of bringing positivity to each person’s world,” says Alex Choueiri, Global President, Ralph Lauren Fragrances L’Oréal. “Fragrance is no longer about seduction only, it is showing its power as a hedonistic tool with healing properties to the mind, and it is also about togetherness.”

Personally, TFF board members—like everyone else—found renewed inspiration in their personal lives, as they returned to the office with more flexibility, and in the world of scent, which continues to move towards a positive and diverse future. “Speaking on behalf of my team, 2022 welcomed a wonderful shift back to meetings in real life with our fragrance brand partners,” says Coy. “Experiencing new scents, being inspired by brand stories, offering reactions to the notes, packaging and future campaigns – these experiences energize us. We’re inspired by the creativity, newness and enthusiasm brands and consumers bring to the category and love working with our brand partners to deliver many beautiful fragrance possibilities to our guests.”

“We are seeing innovation daily, be it in sustainability efforts or through digital advancements, all being driven by a renewed appreciation of scent,” says Vittoria. “Scent today is seen as a powerful engine that can transform our mood and deliver active benefits rather than just an accessory—and this makes our work that much more exciting.”

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

Homecourt is a collection of beauty products for the home, disrupting the household products industry with fine fragrance, clean skincare-inspired formulas, and sustainable packaging.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

The Homecourt team looks forward to networking, building additional relationships, and learning from others in the fragrance industry as we continue to innovate.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

Homecourt will contribute our passion for “The Beauty of Homecare” and continue to educate all on the art of scentscaping and decorating your home with fragrance. We are recruiting new customers to the world of fine fragrance via our innovative and accessible products like surface spray and dish soap. As Homecourt grows, we are excited to build new careers in the fragrance industry and are committed to practicing diversity, equity, and inclusion in our recruitment and culture.

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

BROWN GIRL Jane infuses the power of wellness into masterfully crafted fragrance collections designed to boost mood and reduce stress. Working alongside preeminent perfumers and inspired by the richness of diversity, BROWN GIRL Jane’s award-winning and solution-forward scents are not only an olfactive escape but are powered by clean, clinically studied ingredients designed to marry function and fragrance.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

We’re thrilled to join the TFF family and hope that our membership in this esteemed organization can help elevate the conversation around diverse perspectives within this industry, deepen connections with other experts and founders, and highlight our distinct, wellness-forward approach to scent and the emotionally transformative power of fragrance.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

Our mission and ethos at BROWN GIRL Jane is wonderfully complementary to that of TFF, and as a brand that works tirelessly to center a global, multicultural audience, we will continue to ensure that the world of fragrance is inclusive, reflective, and diverse. We are scent-obsessed, not only because of its ability to quite literally shift mood and create a personal aura, but because it is a remarkable industry where true craftsmanship still exists. We hope that our membership serves as an example to others that they too belong and that diverse brands and founders have unique and valued contributions to share with this industry.

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

We believe in CELEBRATING all life’s magical moments, INNOVATING so we are always serving her, PERSONALIZING everything so it’s all done her way, DESIGNING the most luxurious dresses and scents, and finally, KINDNESS – so she doesn’t have to worry about anything. It is our mission to help anyone and everyone find the look that will allow them to be the best, most genuine version of themselves on their wedding day or any special occasion. Our fragrance line aims to capture this feeling and allow them to revisit this special moment in their lives.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

We have 70 years of experience crafting magical moments and empowering shoppers globally. While the fragrance category is new for us, we are excited to join a community of renowned brands with like-minded values of serving customers and empowering individuals through the storytelling art of fragrance.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

David’s is grounded in our core values to empower people to innovate, create, and celebrate and it shows. In 2022 Forbes named us on their Best Employers for Women List, using results from a survey that is based on a variety of criteria including working conditions, diversity, and how likely employees are to recommend their employer. We are proud to offer inclusive and fun environments to empower our employees shine, in turn fostering passion, and overall growth, we hope to inspire others to do the same. Our brand ethos of ‘serving her or serving someone who is’ speaks to our overarching mission to welcome and celebrate EVERYONE for all of life’s magical moments.

What makes the fragrances that you have created unique?

My fragrances are unique because they were intentionally created to complement the wearer’s aura or essence. These are soft scents that do not overpower. 

What is the feeling or atmosphere that you would like your scents to create?

The feeling I want my customers to leave with is one of fullness and beauty. I have a quote that answers this perfectly, “You are the masterpiece, everything else is an accessory.”

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry? 

My fragrances are not cookie cutter and do not follow the recipe for quick hand grabs. I take my time when it comes to creating my scent collection which gives way for my artistry in perfumery and those involved to shine. I am a huge advocate of DEI and think it’s necessary in an industry that can get pretty stale, pretty quickly. Without diversity, there’s no growth, no evolution and gaps in the industry offering. I will continue to promote DEI by being intentional and supportive of diversity in brand campaigns and spotlighting DEI brands on my social platforms.

What makes the fragrances that you have created unique?

This is a complex question, I can say first of all the way in which it is made we have followed the enfleurage technique. Second the raw materials, our Fior Di Chinotto Parfum is made with the petal Chinotto flower, a unique citrus tree harvested only in Liguria West Coast of Italy. This fragrance is inspired by the fearless women because it follows an interesting storytelling of this plant.

What is the feeling or atmosphere that you would like your scents to create?

Unique and visible recognizing the niche and artisanal aspect of the art of perfumery. Between the notes of Chinotto, honey, jasmin, I enhance the beauty of the women.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

I think that our Fior Di Chinotto perfectly contributes to inspire the world to discover the artistry and the passion of fragrance. Being a family focused business in the fragrance world since 1980, we create this unique scent with the intention to give a tribute to the niche and artisanal fragrance world. We are constantly developing.

I am thinking of proposing a webinar-funded scholarship towards education, programs and recruitment. I have already discussed with Mrs. Virginia Bonofiglio in hopes that we can organize something in 2023.

We have created a solid cosmetic collection that received awards in Italy and the US. This is one of the top lines in fragrance for sustainability! You will have the chance to try this unique fragrance soon!!!

As the year 2022 draws to a close, the content for this issue of Accords includes reflections of members of the TFF Board of Directors and new 2023 TFF members who we welcome for the coming year. This time of year is so focused on our fragrance community surging in sales, we were limited in time and space to those who could contribute in a very rapid turn around and we thank them for sharing their insights.

Thank you also to April Long, our fabulous Accords editor, who was able to weave this interesting mix of perspectives in this issue from retailers, fragrance houses and brands. Our #1 priority #FragranceForwardTFF will always be included in all we do as a united community as you will find new voices join us and all together we continue to take action.

When we return in January to launch the new year, we look forward to a January TFF Board meeting where we will all share and introduce a few new Board members and welcome many new 2023 members whose brands range from Indie to mega size.

All of us on the TFF team wish all of our fragrance community on the planet very happy holidays and a healthy, prosperous New Year 2023! We are grateful for your support and guidance, as we look forward to 2023 with exciting new events, activities, and action all focused on the positivity of fragrance.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On October 25th, TFF celebrated 2022 Circle of Champions honoree Artemis Patrick with a lively dinner event at 583 Park Avenue attended by hundreds of beauty and fragrance industry leaders. As Executive Vice President and Global Chief Merchandising Officer for Sephora, Patrick’s impact on how fragrance is bought and sold cannot be under-stated, and the evening highlighted not only the inspiring breadth of her achievements—from the way she has pioneered Sephora’s retail prowess to her dedication to DEI and ensuring inclusivity within the company and on the sales floor—but also the unflappable attitude, enterprising vision, and sense of fun that she brings to work every day (always in her signature cowboy boots). For this edition of ACCORDS, Patrick reflects on her career, and what it means to be recognized for accomplishments so close to her heart.

What does it mean to you to be inducted into the TFF Circle of Champions?

It is truly such an honor! The fragrance category has always played such an integral role in the Sephora experience, and it has been so exciting to not only witness but to play a part in driving forward the evolution of the category. To be recognized by the esteemed Fragrance Foundation and receive the Circle of Champions Award is just thrilling for me and my team.

When Sephora first came to the US in 1998, with a giant fragrance organ in the middle of the store imported from France (believe it or not, we still have one in our corporate office!), everyone knew we were the underdogs in beauty, but we were an even bigger underdog in fragrance. And every single fragrance merchant that has walked through the Sephora doors for the past 24 years, has had to fight to disrupt and innovate, and their hard work has truly paid off. This award is for them.

What have been some of the most defining moments of your career?

I have been very fortunate to work for a company that believes in continuous innovation and in pushing boundaries; since its inception, Sephora has always managed to be at the forefront of what is new and next in beauty, and it’s been thrilling to play a role in that. But there are of a course a few moments of which I’m especially proud:

In 2018, my team and I launched the Clean at Sephora program, which effectively established “clean beauty” as a category and set the standard for how to think about and shop for such products. Clean at Sephora has experienced tremendous growth since then – including strides made in the fragrance category, which has historically not been a place where “clean” is easy to achieve – and ultimately prompted the subsequent debut of our Clean + Planet Positive program in 2021, which accounts for product sustainability as well. Beauty shoppers continue to be increasingly ingredient-conscious and sensitive to how their choices impact the planet, and I’m so proud that we have played a leading role in helping them to better understand and navigate what can be a complex and confusing category.

Another proud moment came in 2020, when calls for racial justice were quickly taking hold. Aurora James, Brother Vellies’ founder (and friend of Sephora), very publicly issued a call-to-action for retailers to take the 15 Percent Pledge and commit to building a product assortment of which 15% are Black-owned brands – and Sephora was the very first major retailer to step up and do so. Since then, we have reached 15% in the hair care category and have more than doubled our assortment of Black-owned brands – in part through our Accelerate brand incubator program, which focuses exclusively on supporting and launching BIPOC-owned brands. But this is a long-term journey we’re on, and we look forward to launching even more BIPOC-owned brands in the months and years to come.

Lastly, another defining moment of my career was the transition to my full-time global position. When the role of global CMO was first created, it was done with the intent of accelerating the global expansion of exclusive and differentiated brands, and I’m so proud of the great strides we’ve made the past few years. This has been such a rewarding and exciting time in my career, and I look forward to continuing to expand Sephora’s global reach with my incredibly talented team.

What have been the greatest challenges you have faced?

The pandemic was one of the hardest times both professionally and personally. It was a time when leaders had to figure out different ways to keep their teams motivated and connected in a time of extreme uncertainty. By nature, I get so much of my energy by the people around me, so being isolated from my team and our brand partners was especially challenging. I learned during this time that in order to take care of others I had to also take care of myself and tried to encourage my team to do the same. I also learned how important the power of connection is, and made conscious efforts to connect in other ways (a quick call, a kind text) and am cognizant now more than ever how important those human connections are in building a strong company culture.

What is the best career advice you ever received?

I once was in a situation where the issue at hand was so overwhelming that I wasn’t sure where to start. I remember my leader at the time telling me “if Rome is burning, protect your house.” In other words, control only what YOU can control. While it may seem simple, it’s so important that as leaders we focus on what we can control and help guide our teams to do the same. This advice always guides me if I’m feeling overwhelmed and I think also helps me prioritize!

What would you say the future of fragrance retail holds?

While fragrance was once something that was viewed as more special occasion-based, the pandemic really changed the way consumers engage with the category, as people began to turn to it more and more as a form of self-care, both with personal fragrance and home fragrance. We’ve seen that behavior hold strong and anticipate people will continue to shop the category in that way.

We’re also seeing that younger consumers are highly engaged with fragrance. This is a generation that cares about the planet, transparency, diversity and inclusion – and they shop with those values at the forefront. So for fragrance brands to succeed, it will be very important that they understand the nuances across different generations and how to communicate and connect with each – especially Gen Z.

How have your accomplishments aligned with #FragranceFowardTFF?

#FragranceFowardTFF is such an inspiring and important initiative for the fragrance industry, as we all collectively commit to shaping the industry to truly reflect the very diverse community we serve. This could not be more in line with the work we do at Sephora, where we have very much been focused on diversifying our product assortment.

The reality is that there are not yet many Black founders in the fragrance industry, but we and the Fragrance Foundation share the common mission to change that. We launched Jackie Aina’s home fragrance, FORVR Mood, as well as World of Chris Collins last year, and work closely with them to continue building and growing their businesses.

Ultimately, we at Sephora are committed to helping to make the beauty industry at large more representative and truly in service of beauty lovers everywhere – and #FragranceForwardTFF is certainly poised to do the same for the fragrance industry.

TFF places tremendous emphasis on the importance of education—and access to education for all—in creating a future in which the fragrance industry is truly inclusive. The Fragrance Foundation FIT Diversity Scholarship, introduced in 2021, is a powerful door-opener for students from diverse backgrounds interested in pursuing careers in scent. The annual, $100,000 academic award is dedicated to helping students on both the undergraduate and graduate levels of FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance education programs follow their dreams—and, ultimately, bring their creativity and passion to the fragrance business as a whole. This year’s winners, Yasmin Hussain and Monique McKenzie, both undoubtedly innovators-in-the-making, share their love of fragrance, their professional and academic aspirations, and how their commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF will build a better tomorrow for all.

What first inspired your desire to pursue studies towards a career in the fragrance industry?

I’ve always loved fragrance so in the fall of 2020, I took the Advanced Perfumery course at Pratt Institute with Raymond Matts. Learning about the intricacies of each note really fascinated me. Before taking that class, I never knew that the smell of rose had so many individual parts to it! Smelling different notes and families and seeing how they were used in different fragrances made me want to keep learning more and more about what goes into a fragrance.

What are you excited to learn more about in regard to the fragrance industry?

I’m excited to learn more about how fragrance is advertised. I’ve always been interested in both print ads and commercials so I’m excited to learn about the process that goes on behind that. I also look forward to learning more about the science behind fragrance, it’s as interesting as it is challenging.

What does it mean to you to be honored with the TFF FIT scholarship?

I feel endlessly grateful to be given this opportunity, it has enabled me to focus solely on my studies. Not only that, it has also made me feel like I have a place in the industry. Linda, Sharné, and Christina have gone out of their way to be welcoming, affirming and inclusive towards me. I have connected with them on a personal level and feel thankful to The Fragrance Foundation for prioritizing DEI initiatives in education.

How do you believe you can be part of #FragranceForwardTFF moving forward?

I hope to be able to tell stories and create feelings of nostalgia for people like me. I think we all have something different that we can offer and I hope to be able to represent that for people who don’t feel seen or heard. I also hope to one day give people from underrepresented backgrounds affirmation that they too have a place in the fragrance industry.

What first inspired your desire to pursue studies towards a career in the fragrance industry?

My first memory, and frankly love, of fragrance comes from my father. Living in Virginia Beach, my father often traveled for work during the week, joining my mother and I on the weekends.

While I didn’t quite know all the days of the week, I knew it was the weekend when the scent of my father’s Ralph Lauren legendary Polo fragrance arrived at our home in Virginia Beach. Ralph Lauren describes the fragrance as “celebrating the timeless appeal of the sporting lifestyle” while blending “the very best of wood, leather and other natural scents to convey a handsome, enduring character.” And my father was quite the handsome character.

I could easily find myself entranced in the top and middle notes of lime zest, leather and cedar once he walked through the door. But it was the scent of balsam, patchouli, and oakmoss, the base notes, that stayed throughout the week, lingering in all the places he was…the kitchen table where we ate dinner, the sofa where we watched weekly episodes of In Living Color and even my pillow where he tucked me in. I often found myself perusing through my parent’s closet and even trying on my father’s jackets and shirts to recreate that moment of him walking through the front door.

Nearly forty years later, my father still wears that fragrance. While a seemingly innocuous fragrance in a green glass bottle, it proves how much power fragrance has. Fragrance has the power to comfort us, to make us feel at home, and even to bring us joy and laughter; for decades, it’s been an inside joke between my mother and I about how much of the fragrance my father wears.

What are you excited to learn more about in regard to the fragrance industry?

It’s this power of fragrance that inspired me to join the Class of 2024 of the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master in Professional Studies program, the only program of its kind in the U.S. where classes are held in the only working fragrance laboratory on a U.S. college campus. Not only will this program provide me with in-depth knowledge about the role of scent and hands-on olfactive training, I’ll learn to identify consumer preferences as well as the societal, cultural, and other trends that shape them, like familial relationships akin to my relationship with my father, and turn those into brand stories, integrated marketing communications strategy and brand loyalty.

What does it mean to you to be honored with the TFF FIT scholarship?

With the support of The Fragrance Foundation, I can further the organization’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance while also serving as a face for the diversity, equity and inclusion pledge and how people can commit to breaking barriers for people of all backgrounds in launching, growing and sustaining careers in the fragrance industry.

How do you believe you can be a part of #FragranceForwardTFF moving forward?

According to The Cut, Nielsen reported in 2018 that Black people were the biggest consumers of fragrance, responsible for 23 percent of the market (which translates to $151 million) while making up 14 percent of the population. Despite being such avid consumers of fragrance, Black people are rarely, if ever, represented in the industry — whether in advertisements, behind the scenes, or in retail spaces. With the support of the Fragrance Foundation and their objective to nurture talent, I’ll design and create a functional fragrance for a consumer product as part of my final joint interdisciplinary project with a focus on diverse and underrepresented communities. This will aid in my pursuit of innovation in the cosmetics and fragrance industry. Ultimately, I want to leverage my 15 years experience designing campaigns that evolve brand positioning, drive brand awareness and build brand equity for the most iconic and recognized global brands to inspire brand affinity and consideration, increase cultural relevancy and reach diverse audiences within the fragrance industry.

How do you approach holiday candles and scents for diptyque?

Diptyque’s holiday candles are important for consumers, and something they eagerly look forward to. They are highly anticipated and always an exciting challenge for me to create – each candle must be unique, powerful and synonymous with pleasure.

I like to design surprises by proposing very different scents every year. Something I really look forward to is the idea of knowing that I’m going to participate in the magic of the holidays. Diptyque’s holiday collection, it’s like Christmas before the hour!

What were the inspirations behind this year’s collection?

This year, the theme is nostalgic, childhood memories in 3 different accords: a seasonal pine tree, with unexpected accents of mimosa, a wood fire blended with swirls of hot chocolate and the third is the idea of a snowflake if it had a scent. I was very inspired by the idea of imagining a smell to represent a snowflake – its star-pattern shape is so delicate, and inspires you to imagine the most beautiful fragrances.

The idea was to capture the magic and beauty of the holidays.  

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

The smell of a Christmas tree. Imagining the scent of snowflakes. The spices used in a festive cake. But what I love the most, is the mix of all of the season’s amazing smells, they’re so distinct yet complementary.

What were the inspirations behind the Harlem Candle Company St. Nicholas candle?

The Harlem Candle Company St. Nicholas candle was inspired by the feeling of comfort, nostalgia and unique memories associated with family time enjoying freshly baked cake together. The brightness of winter citrus infused with a special blend of spices and woody notes create joyful holiday spirit all year around.

How is creating a candle scent different from a traditional fragrance?

Creating a candle scent is like composing music where all the ingredients of the scent will diffuse simultaneously in harmony. While crafting a traditional fragrance is like writing a story where the ingredients of the fragrance will appear, take turns, and reveal themselves magically over time.

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

The holiday season smells for me a contrast of warmth and freshness where the outdoor crispy air fuses with textured ambery fragrances and delicious spiced fruit cake baking in the oven.

How do you approach holiday candles for NEST?

It starts with pursuing or capturing a specific moment or emotion – almost always something rooted in nostalgia, but of course something new and different for NEST. And from there, it becomes ingredient driven – what are the notes or ingredients evocative of the moment we want to bring to life?

What were the inspirations behind the 2022 NEST holiday scent?

The idea was, quite simply, to capture peak holiday – the vast but very specific array of scents that quintessentially represent the season – those iconic spices and fruits, citruses, but also warming, cocooning gourmand notes for those indulgent cravings.

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

For me, it’s always been a combination of holiday flavors and seasonal ingredients – gourmand, indulgent, sweeter notes (those of hot chocolate, cinnamon, eggnog, roasted chestnuts) – but it’s also all about the outdoor winter elements and those that capture nature in its rawest – crisp woods, fir balsam and frosted pine, or even cozy, smoky fireplace vibes.

Our November Accords includes valuable and inspiring content from 3 perspectives: our 2022 Champion, Sephora’s Artemis Patrick, the first ever TFF FIT Diversity Scholarship recipients, and perfumers who share their holiday candle creativity. Although their roles are certainly different – retail executive, students and perfumers – all share their passion and appreciation of fragrance.

November is a special month for all of the fragrance community as we celebrate Thanksgiving here in the USA and look forward to the holidays next month globally. This year the meaning of Thanksgiving and all the holidays has an even greater feeling of gratitude than possibly ever before. Although the globe is filled with challenging news daily, we have a renewed appreciation for health, happiness and our in person gatherings. As a fragrance community and industry, our gratitude extends to all consumers who have discovered and elevated the important role fragrance plays in daily life to enhance their experiences, transport them spiritually, indulge in self care and of course enjoy the “invisible accessory”.

Happy Thanksgiving from the entire TFF team!

We appreciate your support and are grateful we are united with #FragranceForwardTFF to welcome all and celebrate together. We wish you all great health, happiness and success as we kick off the holiday season and fragrance shopping!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On October 20^th, TFF broadcast its second annual Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion webinar: Moving Forward, Together. For this installment of the Foundation’s ongoing and committed effort to galvanize and support DEI initiatives throughout the fragrance industry, national news anchor (and fragrance lover) Arthel Neville moderated a compelling talk with Bernardo Möller, Founder and Creative Director of House of Bö, Nicole Monson, Senior Vice President, Equity and Engagement at the Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and Shawn Outler, Chief Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Officer at Macy’s Inc. In a thoughtful, in-depth conversation, the three discussed how and why the inclusivity tenants championed by #FragranceForwardTFF are so important and impactful for fragrance brands large and small, fragrance retailers and marketers, and the consumer. Here, they share their thoughts about where the industry stands, and what they hope to see moving forward, together.

What does inclusivity mean to you when it comes to fragrance – from the scent to the ingredients to the design?

I love how the process of creating a fragrance is so specific to its creator’s life story, whether it is inspired by personal memories, culture or background, but by the time it reaches consumers it is a totally subjective experience open to each person’s interpretation. Fragrance is a universal language that is not constricted by race, color, background or sexuality. 

House of Bō’s minimalist design and aesthetic is meant to inspire neutrality.

How do you make sure that your message of inclusivity is in everything you communicate to the consumer?

House of Bō is a community where your definition of self is not only encouraged but celebrated. We believe that authenticity leads to more meaningful human connections that ultimately nurture our soul. When you learn to appreciate your own uniqueness you will understand the value of accepting others as they are. It’s about embracing everything about yourself. It’s your story, your culture, your heritage, your color, your body type, your sexuality.

Inclusivity is at the core of our brand DNA. Everything we do, from our storytelling, to our campaigns and posts, is meant to reflect sustainability, diversity and inclusion. As a small company we make sure we surround ourselves and work with people who uphold and share our values and we are proud to say that our work-force and talent consists of a diverse group of minds that allows us to see things from different perspectives.  

What has been the most impactful progress you have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far, and where do you think the most work still needs to be done?

Diversity Equality and Inclusion is a topic that is being discussed across the board in all sectors and thankfully the fragrance industry is not staying behind, thanks to people in executive positions who truly care about this subject. It’s important to ensure we keep appointing people who genuinely understand the value of having a diverse and inclusive work environment. 

These conversations have had the most impact on me because I am an example of how these platforms create opportunities for people like me to have a voice and to showcase my interpretation of fragrance. These conversations lead to change and these changes inspire young entrepreneurs to think it is possible to follow your dreams. 

We have to keep the conversation alive and make sure we continue to support brands that carry this message in a genuine way, and by genuine I mean brands that are not just looking to check off a box. More and more consumers are searching for brands that they can relate to. People don’t want to buy just a pretty product, they are looking for communities that share their same values and ideals. 

I would love to see more perfumers from different walks of life succeed, not just women but also trans, queer and all other minority groups.

What do you think an inclusive fragrance industry looks like from a consumer’s perspective?

An inclusive fragrance industry is one where consumers feel heard, where their needs are met in product offerings, and where they see themselves reflected in industry marketing practices. In addition, inclusivity means having the fragrance industry engage in the communities in which their consumers live and work on issues that matter to them year-round. Brand investment needs to be ongoing, not solely when engagement with historically marginalized groups seems convenient, like during Black History Month or Pride Month.  

An inclusive fragrance industry is deliberate and focused in the actions it takes to be more inclusive and intentionally prioritizes marginalized communities, including increasing accessibility and taking meaningful actions to ensure perfumers, and other fragrance industry employees actually look like consumers. Representation is critical. There must also continue to be an evolution of language – a move away from terms that are offensive and incendiary.  

The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. aspires to be the most inclusive, equitable, and diverse beauty company in the world. We are constantly evaluating and evolving in DEI—a core tenet of our overall business strategy—to ensure progress towards this goal. When companies take the position of people first, beginning with the support and cultivation of their employees, advocacy for all is given a wider lens. Being intentional in our marketing and product offerings and allowing our consumers to see themselves in our brands, increases returns in brand reputation, consumer affinity, and leadership in our industry.

How do you think that strides in DEI within corporations will affect the fragrances that are made and the way that they are sold?

Consumers, investors, non-profits, and other stakeholders are holding corporations accountable to prioritize DEI in every facet of their operations. With greater awareness of the systemic barriers that impact historically marginalized communities, comes a greater responsibility for the fragrance industry to be more bold, ambitious, and impact-focused when it comes to inclusion practices. 

The strides that are being made by corporations to prioritize and invest in DEI undoubtedly will have an effect on the ways fragrances are made and sold. Indeed, the progress will help reduce and hopefully eventually eliminate the barriers to entry into the industry. For instance, corporations are deciding to make corporate investments in entrepreneurial programs, and professional development that is engaging talent from marginalized communities. The racial diversification of talent brings the variety of perspective that the fragrance industry needs to be relevant to racially diverse consumers in product offerings, marketing practices and the markets in which it engages. 

We’re also seeing an evolution toward more gender inclusivity, with the use of gender-neutral notes like sandalwood, patchouli, and amber, as opposed to fruity, floral scents that have dominated historically. These steps away from the gender binary, and other boxes that exclude the non-dominant culture, are essential on the path to an inclusive industry. 

But there is much more to be done to deliver a fragrance landscape that is as dynamic and diverse as the consumers we hope to serve.

What has been the most impactful progress you have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far, and where do you think the most work still needs to be done?

The most impactful progress that I have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far has been where companies and organizations make DEI a strategic business imperative backed by commitments that can be measured, evaluated, and evolved. 

At ELC, we’ve backed up our intention by making public-facing and internal commitments — starting with commitments to racial and gender equity. We’ve created our new function, the Equity and Engagement Center of Excellence, and established a Gender Equality Taskforce to drive accountability around this work. Progress towards our goals includes: Creating Advancement Opportunities for Black Talent (since its launch, we have increased our hiring of Black candidates to 18.8%, surpassed our goal of doubling our hires from historically Black colleges and universities, created a program with Florida A&M University offering summer internships with teams in NYC and Miami along with scholarships, and more); Investment in Systemic Change (We distributed a total of over $11.8M to support external organizations and non-profits advancing racial and social justice and addressing disparities); and Making Strides Toward Equal Pay for Women (Globally, 55% of positions VP and above are held by women and we’re on track to achieve women’s pay parity this year). 

Our industry requires more diversity represented across all levels and particularly in leadership. Removing bias from our hiring, evaluation, and promotion practices and creating workplaces where employees of color and other historically marginalized groups, feel safe, valued, and have opportunities for advancement, are critical. We must go beyond simply attracting talent to retaining talent and investing in marginalized communities to cultivate a diverse talent pipeline. In addition, a great deal of work remains to provide access to resources for entrepreneurs in the fragrance industry. For most, it is cost prohibitive to build a fragrance brand without financial support from corporations, investors and community-minded organizations. Finally, there must be a heightened focus and sensitivity to marketing practices in the fragrance industry. Clear actions need to be taken to ensure that models that appear in marketing campaigns no longer over index on white, heteronormative models. 

What are some of the more effective DEI strategies you’ve seen so far?

I think companies that have been most effective when they have tapped into diverse communities in the right way, and really listened to understand better what’s impacting those communities and how to address them.

We’ve had ERGs for years, but we’ve seen a different level of activation with our ERGs and advocacy as it relates to them. I think most recently about what happened in Buffalo and Uvalde and the Dobbs decision. Our ERGs have really stood up and we have allowed them to take the lead in driving conversations with those who don’t really understand how these different societal issues have impacted communities. Bringing folks together to express how they feel and what this has meant to them, and allowing others to listen and be educated. We have created this environment, and I think that has been successful.

I think overall everyone was running to the table in 2020 to make a declaration about what they were going to do. The companies that did it well went back to their values and said here’s who we are and made a decision about whether or not anti-racism was in line with those values and then began reinforcing that with everybody in their organization. Those who did it really well followed it up with real action, held people accountable, and put real measurement around it. It’s about activating the people in your work force, standing for something and making a declaration, but also taking action and driving accountability, because that’s how you impact the business you do every day. And I think where the real change happens is when you can change the systems in which you operate to include a more diverse and equitable environment.

How can the industry be more accountable in driving DEI across all levels?

We must create a holistic plan that addresses all levels of the issue with clear measurable goals. This includes internal and external, audience and stakeholders. For example at Macy’s our DEI strategy has five focus areas: our colleagues, customers, suppliers, community, and marketing. And for each area we have set targets we want to meet. Additionally, there must be alignment and accountability across all levels of an organization on these goals. Aspirations, accountability, and action. You also have to be public about it, share it, be very clear, so that everyone understands what you are marching towards.  

What can we do as a community to support #FragranceForwardTFF?

Join us in creating meaningful, impactful, sustainable, measurable, transparent goals as it relates to this work. I would also say, let’s reframe the conversation. This to me is always about opportunity: the opportunity to understand each other better, to discover new businesses and get at new categories and really expand and grow our industry at large. I just say, what a huge incredible opportunity we have every day to elevate what we do and include more voices and grow. This is the next evolution of our industry, let’s embrace it in a positive and meaningful way for greater change and impact for all.

Diversity brings ideas, energy, and insight to any field, but building a truly inclusive workforce begins with education: for students, knowing what opportunities exist can be the first step towards discovering and flourishing in a rewarding occupation. This month, TFF rolled out its exciting Scents of Success Career Panel Discussion Series, in which TFF and six participating member companies conducted educational sessions about careers in the fragrance industry at Florida State University, University of Rochester, William Paterson University, Spelman College, City College of New York and Rutgers University.  These panels brought 500 students together with fragrance professionals to discuss roles at fragrance houses, brands, retailers and more—highlighting the fact that the fragrance industry has many entry points, and is committed to recruiting and retaining teams that reflect the entire USA population. The feedback from these events was overwhelmingly positive. 

As Sophia Bressani, a student at Florida State University, said of the event with Cosmo International Fragrances, “I could tell all the panelists were very passionate about what they do, and it made it a very fun, engaging, and insightful panel discussion.” 

For Priyansh Patel, a student who attended the Rutgers University event with Robertet, the experience was truly mind-opening: “As an engineering and business student, I never even knew fragrance companies like Robertet existed. However, this event bridged the gap between my two passions and showed how they are interrelated. From learning the chemical backgrounds of creating the ‘perfect scent’ from Robertet’s Senior Perfumer to understanding the business strategies that are necessary to sell perfumes, I am extremely grateful to have been able to gain exposure to this field.”

Keokuk Kight, Quality Enhancement Plan Manager Institutional Effectiveness, Spelman College, noted that the college’s October 12^th panel with L’Oréal was “a fabulous opportunity to bring industry professionals to the students to have real-life and behind-the-scenes conversations about the fragrance industry. Students were able to ask questions, network, and get information on valuable internship opportunities. It was a true gem of an experience.”  

Spelman student Kathleen J. Bostick was so inspired that she has already begun exploring how she might bring her passions and educational expertise into the fragrance world: “Attending this event was incredibly beneficial to me,” she said. “I have a strong background in plant biology and having the opportunity to see firsthand how the marketing is implemented in such a dynamic product was very eye opening. Seeing the Black women speak about their experiences was incredibly inspiring and I am really happy that a company with such prominence and success is devoted to creating spaces for Black women and equity. I was left with interesting ideas on how neuroscience can be utilized in a customer’s reaction to smells from these fragrances and potential extraction techniques that could be utilized for this product. I decided to reach out to several representatives for further guidance on future opportunities there may be for someone with my background. I am excited for what the future holds!”

Students at the City College of New York event with LVMH lauded it as “refreshing and valuable,” and, as student Lol Amu said, “the panelists and Fragrance Foundation members were very warm and encouraging to students.” For CCNY student Nisa Manzar, “the Scents of Success panel was an amazing opportunity for CCNY Ad/PR students to learn first-hand what it’s like to work in the luxury fragrance world. Hearing the panelists stories of how they got to where they are today was both inspiring and informative. Some of the panelists also spoke about their day-to-day responsibilities within their roles which helped us as students get more familiar with what working in the luxury industry looks like. Hearing from successful professionals that were once in the same boat as students was very comforting.”

It wasn’t just the students who benefited from these enormously fruitful events. Seeing the enthusiasm and boundless potential that the students brought to the table energized and inspired the panelists too. 

As Vanessa Santarossa, LVMH Head of Education and Events, said of the CCNY event, “Connecting with the students left me feeling invigorated and recharged!”

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

Cosmo’s corporate mission is “People, Parfum, Purpose,” so naturally, we were excited that we had the opportunity to be a part of this discussion as we and The Fragrance Foundation alike, all strive to make it our Purpose as mentors within the industry to enhance the world of fragrance through education. It was a pleasure to exchange and share with a group of young talents who were thoroughly engaged and already showed excitement and passion for the industry at this point in their studies.

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

As a Notable myself, I understand the mission is to lead, promote the industry and help guide future generations, and what better way to do that than expand our reach and inspire the next generation of future fragrance lovers! Exploring new career profiles will be crucial as we develop new strategies as a company, and by collaborating with universities around the country, we have an excellent opportunity to expand the scope of the fragrance industry. 

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

They were an incredibly dynamic group of students who were really interested in all aspects of the industry! Many were eager to understand the process of fragrance creation and the role of a perfumer so having a perfumer present in the discussion was especially exciting for them. They also understood that the fragrance industry is very consumer-focused, so speaking to them about the importance of consumer insights, the connection between fragrance and brand identity, and how we make our client’s stories come to life through fragrance was a key part of our discussion. We were also asked about our individual roles and personal journeys, so sharing the stories of how our careers began in the fragrance industry was fun.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

It is important because the industry will never stop evolving, and we must be ready to evolve with it, and attracting new mindsets and new ways of thinking will be crucial to stay relevant. The consumer landscape is changing, and diversity, equality, and inclusion are at the forefront of it all; this initiative will help to open the industry up to many more professional profiles, which will help us grow and answer future demands. Creating meaningful connections and experiences where we can inspire minds, nurture young talent and embrace new ways of creative thinking will be a must! 

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

It was an amazing experience being able to represent the fragrance industry for the Scents of Success Career Panel discussion. It was empowering to see the engagement from the students and their excitement around the fragrance industry. Having the opportunity to share not only my experience, but my colleagues’ experience in the industry and shed light on diverse backgrounds intrigued a lot of the students and warranted an interactive discussion.

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

I am passionate about the fragrance industry and continuing to build and move it forward. I also love helping others achieve their goals and providing guidance to be successful. Being a part of this program gives me the platform to not only speak about my passion, but also be excited about the future of the industry and guide them on a successful path.

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

They were interested in the communication and interaction a house has, both internally and externally. Conveying the message that it truly takes a village to build a fragrance, they were interested in what happens at each step of the process from sourcing raw materials, to making the fragrance, to obtaining the brief, to manufacturing, etc. They learned more about the layers of what goes into making a product and that was interesting for them.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

The fragrance industry is filled with opportunities, and I am so thankful for the doors that it has opened for me. This initiative is so important to continue to push our industry forward to innovate, create, and be an inclusive place to work. We live in an ever changing marketplace and we need dynamic leaders to help us continue to evolve and be at the forefront of innovation. I would love to see more involvement and collaboration between brands and suppliers with universities – promoting who we are, what we do, and educating students on the beautiful world of fragrance.

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

My colleagues and I were so proud to host a career panel with the Fragrance Foundation and Coty. This event allowed students an up close look at working in fragrance by hearing personal stories from panelists, each with different backgrounds, skill sets and passions. From fragrance development and marketing to digital and supply chain, we had a global mix of experts who shared real world anecdotes on what their day-to-day looks like and advice for those looking to break into the industry.  

Even with the formality of an organized event, the conversations felt very personal and real. Students asked practical, smart questions and we all learned a little more about each other. We walked away as inspired as the students!

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

Seeing is believing. Growing up in NY, I was very familiar with career paths in finance, law and psychology. I saw these fields first hand through family and friends. I treasured fragrance, but thought of it as a special treat or something to purchase. As I met experts in the industry overtime, I started to have those “aha” moments, picturing myself working alongside them. One future mentor literally opened her laptop once over dinner and showed me a presentation she was working on so that I could visualize what “a day in the life” could look like. This program lets us ‘open up the laptop’ across a range of roles for a new generation of talent.

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

We were all excited by the passion from students and the practical questions they asked. They were very interested in decoding job titles, connecting school disciplines with fragrance positions, what the day-to-day might look like and how we used soft skills to influence colleagues at work. At a school known in part for medicine, engineering and business, it was inspiring to watch students realize in real time new potential paths ahead, pairing multiple disciplines to find success and joy in fragrance.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

Fragrance inspires connection, we find ourselves in our favorite scents and experience the artistry of it together. Open panel events and mentorship opportunities help us grow as an industry to reach new audiences and talents. Would love to see the world of experts mirror the diversity of our passionate consumers, sharing more stories and creative visions along the way.

October at The Fragrance Foundation included several significant events. Therefore, we are featuring our annual DEI webinar and the rollout of Scents of Success in this issue of Accords and will highlight the Circle of Champions and more in the November edition.

October 20th we proudly presented our 2nd annual DEI #FragranceForwardTFF webinar, “Moving Forward Together” an extraordinary, inside look at the fragrance industry – decoding DEI and sharing insights from some leading voices from a variety of perspectives. We applaud our extraordinary Moderator, Arthel Neville who is a trailblazing broadcaster in news and programming who led the panel discussion and the result was captivating, insightful and inspiring.

We greatly appreciate our panelists including Bernardo Möller for sharing his personal and professional journey including his view of the challenges and rewards of entering the fragrance industry with the debut of the House of Bō. Shawn Outler for Macy’s, Inc. and Nicole Monson for The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. also contributed significantly, sharing how their companies have implemented DEI policy, practices and measurement to their employees as well as to consumers. We are united that DEI is an opportunity, and there is much ahead to be accomplished. Together as a fragrance community we must take action to achieve our goals: to recruit, hire, retain and celebrate diversity in all aspects.

TFF and our members will continue this ongoing dialog and most importantly we will continue to take action to lead the fragrance community so that our future industry reflects the diverse USA population. We will not stop!

If you have not yet viewed the webinar, or wish to replay it or share it with others, click through here to our new TFF YouTube channel.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

New York 1 anchor Cheryl Wills knows a newsworthy event when she sees one—and on September 7^th, when she reported directly from The Fragrance Foundation’s inaugural Connections Brunch at Melba’s restaurant in Harlem, she was making news, not just presenting it. Both New York 1 and Wills—who has been with the network since its debut—were marking 30 years of broadcasting, a milestone that made the TFF occasion even more festive. And what a lively event it was: The brunch brought together some 40 industry leaders—including Chris Collins, founder of World of Chris Collins, Teri Johnson of the Harlem Candle Company, and Francisco Costa, creator of the award-winning beauty line Costa Brazil, designers, journalists, influencers and style makers—to celebrate New York Fashion Week and share the latest on #FragranceForwardTFF, the groundbreaking initiative driving DEI in the fragrance industry. Wills, a passionate perfume devotee herself, was connected with TFF via Helen Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer and head of DEI strategy with  Agency of Record Finn Partners, and as the success of the day proved, it was a match made in fragrance heaven. Here she shares her favorite moments of the day and why she believes TFF’s work is so impactful.

What were the highlights of your experience at the TFF Connections brunch?   

The TFF Connections brunch was, shall we say, scent-sational! What a thrill to be in the presence of change agents in the fragrance industry and to meet so many movers and shakers while munching on Melba’s famous chicken and waffles! Linda did a marvelous job hosting the event! Her sincerity and love for the fragrance industry shined through. And you could hear a pin drop during her riveting on the spot interviews with entrepreneurs like Chris Collins.

How did the TFF Connections brunch at Melba’s in Harlem prove to be a great kick off to NYFW & celebrate NY1’s 30th anniversary?  

Great question! NY1’s 30th anniversary is also a celebration of arts and culture and that, of course, includes the fragrance industry! The brunch tied everything together under ONE ROOF!! As someone who has been with NY1 from DAY ONE, this was a really special moment for me! I covered fashion week and many fragrance related stories for more than a decade and met fashion icons like BETSY JOHNSON and reported on her fragrance line and countless others! So this was a delicious reunion for me as well!

Why is an event like the TFF Connections brunch important for New York media?  

The brunch is critical for members of the media to connect the dots and learn more about the fragrance industry from those who know best! Linda Levy is a great connector and thoroughly understands the multi-billion dollar fragrance industry! Linda Levy is also a terrific ambassador for building the brand and her assortment of media titans did just that.

What are your impressions of the #FragranceForwardTFF Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiative?  

The diversity angle is especially important to me because I know first hand that the global fragrance industry is dominated by whites. Chris Collins is a trailblazer and it was imperative that he was placed front and center at this important event. There are difficult questions that still need to be addressed.  WHY is Chris Collins one of the very few black-owned fragrance sold at Bergdorf Goodman? Aside from celebrity endorsements by Rhianna and Beyonce etc., the global fragrance Industry has a lot of work to do to level the playing field and welcome perfumers of color to the table. The Fragrance Foundation’s diversity initiative is what drew me to this event! 

What do you love about fragrance, and how do you use it in your daily life?  

Thanks to the amazing gift bag from this exclusive event, I am now baptized in the WORLD OF CHRIS COLLINS! I’ve been wearing it every single day and sharing his amazing journey from supermodel to super-entrepreneur with everyone I meet! I love how fragrance makes me feel. Once I am made up and just before I get dressed, I strategically spray perfume -in all the right places. It’s the finishing touch. When I was a little girl, we lived in public housing in New York City and I will never forget my mother always left the house wearing Charlie – which she routinely purchased from Woolworths! I couldn’t wait to grow up and do the same thing. Now that I’m all grown up and painting the town, it’s my honor to following in my mother’s fancy footsteps!

Melba’s restaurant in Harlem is as celebrated for its welcoming, convivial neighborhood atmosphere as it is for its raved-about comfort food. What better place to make new friends and mark noteworthy progress in #FragranceForwardTFF’s push for diversity, equity, and inclusion in the fragrance industry? The three brand-founders featured at the TFF Connections brunch— Chris Collins, founder of World of Chris Collins, Teri Johnson of the Harlem Candle Company, and Francisco Costa, creator of the award-winning beauty line Costa Brazil—have all been deeply involved and aligned with #FragranceForwardTFF, and each brought a unique perspective and true enthusiasm to the event. Here, the trio of game-changing brand creators reflect on their experiences at the brunch, and share why networking moments that bring together the perfume world with new media are so important for all.  

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you? 

The connections! Seeing old friends and making new relationships is what Linda Levy and The Fragrance Foundation is all about. She’s an amazing connector. I always leave her gatherings with new ideas and excitement for what’s to come.

Why do you think an event like this is important, both for the media and the brands? 

It’s imperative that people see fragrance as it really is — for everyone. Fragrance is a headspace. It should transport you to a place of safety, comfort. It has no boundaries. We need to communicate that.

How does Costa Brazil support #FragranceForwardTFF, and what do you hope to see in the future?

We’re both all about sustainability and inclusivity; our missions have long aligned. I’m very inspired by the magic of nature and science, something you can tell if you’ve smelled my unisex perfume Aroma, which features ingredients from the Amazon that evoke stress-reducing phytoncides as well as a patchouli-type oil that was sustainably made in the lab of my parent company Amyris. The perfume comes in either a base of upcycled ethanol derived by Bonsucro-certified sugarcane, or long-lasting pataua oil, the latter of which has great skin hydration and firming benefits. We can make beautiful fragrances using safe sustainable ingredients that don’t rely on petrochemicals or vulnerable plants and animals. And it’s important we do it now, because scent plays a large role in how we internalize life and regulate emotions. Costa Brazil’s tagline is spray it, layer it, evolve with it—and I truly mean that.

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you?

The highlight of the TFF Connections Brunch for me was being able to introduce myself, my passion for fragrance and how I came to create the Harlem Candle Co.  It was an honor to meet and network with the journalists and reporters who also have a passion for fragrance and beauty.

What did it mean for you that Connections was held at Melba’s?

I LOVED the fact that the Connections brunch was held at Melba’s in Harlem as Melba’s has become an institution and a place where artists, creatives and influential people in Harlem convene on a regular basis.  I also loved how conveniently located it is relative to where I live.

How does the Harlem Candle Company support #FragranceForwardTFF, and what do you hope to see in the future?

As a relatively new brand among The Fragrance Foundation members (joined in 2020) we hope to become more involved in helping and mentoring the next generation of niche brands owned and operated by women and people of diverse backgrounds.

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you?

Besides the delicious food and meeting the great Melba herself, it was nice to meet and talk to the other amazing brand founders that joined the brunch.

What did it mean for you that Connections was held at Melba’s?

To me it was very special to have a fragrance event in Harlem. The neighborhood where I live and where my fragrance brand was born.

As someone who has been involved with. #FragranceForwardTFF from the beginning, what are some of the biggest impacts you have seen from this initiative?

 I’m absolutely thrilled with how far the Fragrance Forward initiative has come. Shining a spotlight on the brands, founders and professionals of color in the fragrance industry is beautiful to see.

How does your Colombian heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance? 

In the Colombian culture you love to wear fragrance, it’s part of who you are–it compliments your style and personality. You have fun with it. We like to experiment with different scents and if we fall in love with one fragrance, it’s a fragrance of a lifetime.

What are some of the ways you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations? 

I feel fragrance ingredients are like colors and they evoke experiences and emotions. Culturally we are known for being very positive and optimistic. I want my fragrances to give people joy, take them to a special moment in their lives or to where they have never been before. 

What moments from your career are you proudest of so far?

In 28 years of my perfumery career, I have had a few moments of pride and joy. First, being the creator of VS Bombshell–a brand I connected in my younger years and creating their No.1 scent has been incredible. Also the co-creation of Lancôme Idôle and the work I continue doing with L’Oréal with more to come. I feel very honored as a latina perfumer to be given the opportunity to work in their brands, my ideas resonate with them. And I truly feel very valued, appreciated and recognized. Thanks to all the clients that believe in me, what makes you different makes you very unique and let’s continue breaking a few more barriers.

How does your Mexican heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance? 

Even if I’m now an “adoptive” New Yorker, having lived in Manhattan for over 26 years, I look back at my Mexican roots and I approach perfume making very “Mexicanly”… (is that a word?). That is, I do it with passion, with respect for history and the past, with optimism and full heartedly. Mexico is a country of contrasts, of culture, of enormous riches, or resilience. Just recently, for the third time, a powerful earthquake hit Mexico City on the same date (formerly, in 1985 and 2017). This is uncanny and the effects of these phenomenons are devastating. Although they are always a source of sadness for everyone, it’s also comforting to see how the Mexican people help each other, recover swiftly and rebuild towards the future with an impressive resilience. 

What are some of the ways that you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations? 

Mexico is an unfathomable source of inspiration for me. Being the only Mexican perfumer working in the international arena of fine fragrance creation, I wear my Mexican badge proudly and I apply my knowledge of my country very frequently. Be it through my motherland’s food, its music, its literature, the arts, the architecture and archeology, its landscapes or its biodiversity (Mexico is the second country in the world with most original botanical species in the world) I infuse every single perfume I make with this deep love. I can mention Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Jose Maria Velasco and Roberto Montenegro as artists I love; Carlos Pellicer and Xavier Villaurrutia as poets that bring me a lot of pleasure; literary authors Octavio Paz and Juan Rulfo; Luis Barragan as a star architect; and my cousin Gabriela Camara as a splendid contemporary chef when it comes to food! Also, I can affirm that Mexico has the best male singers in the world: my week is not complete if I don’t listen to Mijares, Jose Jose or Alejandro Ferandez. 

What did it mean for you to celebrate Mexican ingredients and inspirations through your collaboration with House of Bō? 

When Bernardo Möller and I started working together on the three perfumes for his brand, we focused on the experience of growing up in Mexico and on the references that we had as  olfactive “imprints.” The “agua de colonia” theme was explored in Agua de Santos. For La Mar, we evoked the sometimes powerful sea breeze (or wind, rather) of the Mexican Pacific Coast, more rocky than sandy.. and for Espirtu, we came up with a never made before woody accord inspired on the precious wood of a Mexican tree called Macuilis. Bernardo grew up in a house in Guadalajara that is surrounded by those trees, and when I mentioned that I was studying its particular woody scent, we knew we had built a connection that is anchored in a deep passion for everything Mexican.

How does your Cuban heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance?

When you are born and raised on an island, it is inevitable to be inspired by its geography and climate, from the vibrant hues of the Caribbean ocean to the lush verdant nature and even the sun’s radiating heat. In many ways, this has inspired and marked my personal style when it comes to fragrances. I enjoy creating airy, sweet, and irreverent fragrances that combine fresh and tropical fruity touches with notes of spices, exotic flowers, and sea salt to evoke memories of early summer afternoons by Havana’s Malecon. I also like to indulge in combining rich scents of brown sugar, honey, tobacco, and rum to achieve a sophisticated yet relaxed background effect that evokes bold vintage impressions. It is said that fragrances are a reflection of personal taste, but I believe they can also be a reflection of a country and culture. I can share that, as Cubans, we are drawn to daring, strong, and long-lasting fragrances, just the same as our need for our morning cafecito.

What are some of the ways you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations?

I have recently enjoyed working on a fragrance creation inspired by the most well-known and delicious Cuban cocktail, the mojito. It was stimulating and rewarding to capture the essence of this Cuban classic! From the intensity of the white rum to the cool freshness of mint, the zesty acidity of the lime, and that final sweet touch of sugarcane… the perfect balance of notes for this Cuban girl! It is also fragrances like this where I love to work with one of my favorite Cosmo Ingredients, the Peruvian Lime MD. It is juicy, fresh, zesty, and sparkling, the perfect raw material to conjure up the scent of a Mojito.

What moments of your career are you proudest of so far?

I don’t believe in isolating my career into one proud moment. I believe that when we take pride in our daily work, there is greatness in every project and every fragrance creation. 

I would say that one of the most creative but also fulfilling and joyful experiences I’ve had as a perfumer was being invited to create exclusive fragrances for an immersive live event that was done in partnership with the Miami Symphony Orchestra, located in the historic Moore building in the Miami Design District. Not every day do you get to observe the reaction of hundreds of people enjoying your fragrance while they listen to Wagner and Debussy! Having attended the performance with my family, it was truly a memorable evening that will always have a special place in my heart. 

I also believe that one of my greatest achievements is being part of the Cosmo International Fragrances family!

September marked a major milestone in the BIG return to the office, New York Fashion Week, the UN General Assembly and many fragrance events brought people together at a pace we have not experienced for over 3 years. The timing was perfect for us to host the premiere of TFF Connections Brunch at Melba’s in Harlem.

It was exciting to kick off the new season of fragrance, fashion and culture at such an iconic Harlem restaurant known for not just great food, but for a welcoming ambience to all. The group that gathered was intimate enough that every attendee had the opportunity to make new connections and renew friendships that were virtual in what felt like forever these past few years.

Last fall, as many of you may know, The Fragrance Foundation launched #FragranceForwardTFF.
In this issue of Accords, our editor April Long has captured our spirit of the new event with a Spotlight on our great new TFF TV connection, the extraordinary TV Talk Show Host and Author Cheryl Wills. Cheryl kicked off the NY1 30 year anniversary and NYFW with the exuberant TFF crowd and spent time getting to know the fragrance community.

I had this great opportunity to share The Fragrance Foundation commitment of advancing industry diversity, equity and inclusion. This was the perfect moment to do this by creating connections, fostering connections and inspiring connections and by taking action. We invited guests to make our connections expand to communities and consumers who have not been engaged with us previously. Our mission must expand its reach and we are taking action to reach out to all those who make up the USA population, specifically to those who are underrepresented in the fragrance community.

September Accords features in Scents & Sensibility the 3 brand creators, Francisco Costa, Teri Johnson and Chris Collins, who were special guests highlighted at the event who shared their first hand experiences of making TFF connections.

In celebration of Hispanic Heritage month, we are pleased to share insights from 3 talented perfumers Cosmo’s Esther Morales, Givaudan’s Andriana Medina and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, who share their connection to their heritage and how it inspires their fragrance creations.

A special THANK YOU to our strategic leader and partner Helen Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer of Finn Partners who strategizes all aspects of #FragranceForwardTFF with our TFF Senior Director Sharné Jackson and myself as women of action.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

How do you create a bona fide “fragrance destination” for shoppers? Just ask Jeff Gennette, Macy’s, Inc. Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, who has positioned Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury as precisely that. The enterprising leader, who has been honored with the prestigious 2022 TFF Hall of Fame Award, has long understood the power of storytelling and interactive experience in fragrance retail. He has made fragrance central to the shopping experience, intuitively recognizing how intrinsically connected it is with fashion and beauty.

This understanding comes from experience. Gennette began his nearly four-decade retail career in 1983 as an executive trainee at Macy’s West in San Francisco. In March of 2017, Gennette was elected Chief Executive Officer of Macy’s, Inc., and Chairman in February 2018. Over the years, he has served in key roles as EVP and Director of Stores for Macy’s Central, and as Chief Merchandising Officer, keeping fragrance front-and-center in the retailer’s merchandising mix.

Gennette’s deep understanding of the consumer — from how they wish to move through a store to how they buy, use, and gift scent — has propelled Macy’s, Inc. to the top tier of fragrance retail. Even more meaningful is the tone that he has set: His commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion has positioned Macy’s, Inc. as a role model in making the fragrance world open and equitable for all.

What does it mean to you to receive the Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame Award?

I am incredibly honored to be receiving this award, but most importantly, I think it’s a testament to the role Macy’s, Inc. has played in elevating and growing the fragrance industry. I humbly accept this award on behalf of my entire team and our valued fragrance partners, without whom this wouldn’t be possible.

What led you to first join Macy’s?

Macy’s is well known in the industry for its executive development program, and the opportunity at a young age to get management experience was what first drew me to the company. I thought I would stay a couple of years and then go to business school, but here I am four decades later. I wouldn’t change a thing.

What lessons did you learn early on in your career at Macy’s that have continued to be relevant in your role as Chairman and CEO?

There are two lessons that still guide me today. One, is the importance of being your authentic self. When you can come to the workplace living your truth, you can fully engage, innovate and bring different viewpoints to the table. The other is to always focus on the customer. Without an unwavering focus on what is right for the customer, you can’t successfully lead a retail business.

What have been your proudest career achievements?

Hopefully that will continue to evolve over time, but right now I would say that I’m most proud of successfully steering Macy’s, Inc. through the most challenging parts of the Covid-19 pandemic. Our team really came together to recover the business and emerge as a healthier and stronger company. I’m so proud of the incredible work that all my colleagues did to continue to deliver for our customers during this unprecedented time.

How and why is fragrance so important to Macy’s?

The Fragrance business is important for our company because it evokes powerful, emotional connections for our customers. Together with our fragrance partners, we have built the business into a powerhouse in the beauty industry, giving customers the opportunity to discover new scents that complement their unique personal style.

What are some of the key ways that you keep customers engaged with fragrance at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and Bluemercury?

We continue to invest in the fragrance shopping experience across our stores and digital platforms.

We’ve developed rich, creative, sensory experiences that support this emotional purchase. This includes collaborations with our valued partners on product launches, storytelling and leveraging customized digital tools that enable us to bring the very best of the in-store experience to online shoppers.

It is also important for us to innovate and find new ways to engage our customers with the fragrance business through experiences like our recent integration of scents into the Macy’s Flower Show. We’ve also continued to inspire discovery through digital channels as showcased by our live shopping programming on Macys.com and Bloomingdales.com.

What have been the biggest changes you have seen in consumer behavior regarding fragrance over the years?

We have seen fragrance explode as the perfect gift for any occasion. Today we enjoy a strong business in custom gift sets and baskets for all gifting holidays. It’s not only a staple gift for Mother’s Day or Valentine’s Day, but fragrances have also become the go-to gift for marking special moments in people’s lives. We have also seen customers evolve to become true fragrance connoisseurs, increasingly knowledgeable and discerning about what makes a fragrance unique and how that fits with their personal style.

How would you characterize the current state of fragrance retail?

The business continues to expand, adding new and returning customers to the category. The past couple of years have further highlighted the importance of fragrance and scent memory for our customers. Fragrances reminded them of locations they missed or special memories during these trying years. They have also become the perfect self-treat for those seeking a pick-me-up.

What do you predict for the future of fragrance retail?

The next evolution in the business has begun. We’ve started to see how the customer is seeing fragrance as part of their whole lifestyle. They want scent for themselves, their home, car and office. They are making fragrance an essential part of their ecosystem. We also see a huge opportunity for growth, particularly in the luxury segment.

How does TFF’s DEI initiative #FragranceForwardTFF resonate with Macy’s values and practices?

Macy’s, Inc. and The Fragrance Foundation both see diversity, equity and inclusion as bedrock values. They are paramount to creating an equitable future that allows colleagues to be their authentic selves, that reflects and values diverse customers, and one that supports our shared communities. We applaud the work that The Fragrance Foundation is doing to create a more equitable world for all.

Anyone who has watched the documentary NOSE: The Most Secret Job in the World, which follows François Demachy on his travels around the globe, is unlikely to forget witnessing the master perfumer’s passion for selecting exquisite raw materials—just as anyone who has smelled his creations, including Dior Eau Sauvage and Dior Joy, is unlikely to forget experiencing their olfactive magic.

Raised in Grasse, where his father was a pharmacist, Demachy studied medicine before turning to perfumery and embracing the bounty of his native soil. He spent years as the Director of Research and Development at Chanel, and in 2006 became the Perfumer-Creator for Dior, where he dreamed up imaginative and evocative fragrances for the Maison until retiring in 2021.

From meticulous perfume craftsman to somewhat reluctant—or at least very humble—movie star, Demachy is a true legend in the industry. He is known for his gentleness and thoughtfulness, and for his dedication—especially through his relationships with raw material producers in Grasse—to making sure that beautiful ingredients will be available to perfumers for a long time to come. “Maybe in the future I could be a producer of raw materials myself,” he says, speculating on what he might do next. “Who knows? Perhaps I will try. It would be a nice way for me to complete the circle—to be at the very beginning of perfume.”

What does it mean to you to be awarded TFF Lifetime Achievement Perfumer?

It’s hard to say, because there are two feelings. On the one hand, it means it’s the end of my career in a way. On the other hand, I am delighted, of course! I am so proud to receive this award. It is a real honor.

What made you want to be a perfumer?

As the French say, when you eat, you get hungrier: Your appetite comes as you eat. I would say that I didn’t really feel a calling or anything like that to be a perfumer, but my one big advantage is that I grew up in Grasse. And when you are in Grasse, you are never very far away from perfume. Apart from that, it was because I failed in all my efforts to become a doctor or join the medical field in one way or another. At the time, my father was extremely desirous that I should become a doctor, so I tried to obey him, but at the same time I wanted to do something different. So, I decided to try perfumery.

You are known for your love of naturals and your engagement with raw materials. How has that passion shaped your career?

When you learn something in your youth, it stays with you. It leaves a stamp in your mind. And that’s what happened to me. I was lucky because I had the experience of working early on with some very technically knowledgeable and well-established perfumers, even though they were not well known because they remained on the sidelines. They showed me how to use raw materials, particularly those from Grasse, and flowers especially. There is no perfume without flowers—that’s what I learned—and it became part and parcel of who I am. So, when I am making a formula, it just comes out instinctively. It is innate.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

I tend to be extremely fussy. I am very fastidious. Perfume for me starts off with an idea, and then I give that idea a shape, and then I put that shape into practice and work to improve it. That’s how l like to proceed. I go into the nitty gritty. As I mentioned, I had two great professors. One was Jean Cavallier, the father of Jacques Cavallier, who taught me that in a mixture of items no one product should stand out. A balance is required. My other professor was Henri Robert, who at the time was the perfumer for Chanel, and he trained me on certain features of raw materials – not the raw material as such, but certain characteristics – and how to use them properly in a perfume. It’s all this knowledge that left its stamp on me and on my formulas. Like everyone, I have my preferences—there are certainly ingredients that I like to use. Patchouli and amber, in particular. I can’t say I have a style, exactly. But it’s true that I like to give perfumes a feeling of roundness, if that makes sense.

You created a modern classic with Dior Eau Sauvage. What do you think is the secret to its success?

I don’t know if there is a secret to it. If there were a recipe, I would have used it again and again. I think most of all it’s about continuity. You start off by choosing your ingredients, and I was very lucky because I was able to select my own raw materials, which was a huge advantage. It’s like in a restaurant where the grand chef selects his own ingredients, and more than half of the end result comes from the quality of those ingredients. And then of course there are certain characteristics of the raw materials. Amber, for instance, is very animal-like. It has a sensuous effect that is deeply and profoundly appealing to us even if we are unaware of it. It’s not something you distinguish, but you feel it, and you want it. So, there you go. Sauvage appeals to the unconscious—that’s how I did it.

Having lived in New York and Grasse and traveled so extensively, what have you observed about the way that people engage differently with fragrance around the world?

There is not really much of a difference. When you talk of perfume, it is a universal language. In fact, that’s the specialty of perfume. If I were to draw a parallel, the closest would be cooking or cuisine. You may not be Chinese, for instance, but you might still love Chinese food. It’s a similar quest for different tastes, for different experiences. Think of our love of spices, though they are used differently around the world, or lavender, rosemary, aromatic herbs—they speak to a universal desire for pleasure. I think that is what this whole thing is about. It’s a story of feeling, of emotion. That has always intrigued me. I have tried to make perfumes that are a source of pleasure for all, that have a universal appeal.

What do you consider to be your greatest legacy?

What I am most proud of is that I actively participated in the renewal of certain very exceptional raw materials from different countries, and particularly from Grasse. I can see the results of the effort today. There are so many perfume houses, so many companies that want to come to Grasse now. Ten or fifteen years ago, Grasse had lost its role, but now it is coming back, and I am so proud of this achievement. I would take that as my legacy.

For more than 40 years, filmmaker Louie Schwartzberg has been capturing the slow, intricate processes of nature. Whether by filming flowers as they open up in time-lapse, or tracing the fascinatingly complex world of mushrooms, as he did in his riveting 2019 documentary Fantastic Fungi, Schwartzberg aims to guide our eyes and hearts to understand and appreciate the beauty of the natural world around us. His next film, which will premiere later this year, will be titled Gratitude REVEALED, and devoted to all of the ways that our experiences—and the planet we live on—can be better when we take the time to feel thankful for each other and this incredible web of life that we are a part of.

In 2021, Schwartzberg was TFF’s partner for Fragrance Day, when his short films of blooming flowers featured prominently throughout the event and on social media, illustrating perfectly and profoundly the occasion’s floral theme. That collaboration has proven to be important and enduring, which is why TFF showed a trailer for Gratitude REVEALED—and welcomed Schwartzberg onstage—at the 2022 Fragrance Foundation Awards, opening the evening’s festivities with a message of thankfulness and community.

What led you to start working on your next film, which is about gratitude?

I started it over a decade ago when I showed a teaser trailer at a TED x SF event, and it went viral. That led to a book, an interview with Oprah on Super Soul Sunday, and lots of heart-warming comments as people said they watch it every day and turned it into a practice. During the pandemic I could not travel, so I finally assembled the nuggets of wisdom and magic moments I have been capturing over the last 40 years, and built this mosaic of gratitude, weaving people together who are diverse, sharing their wisdom, luminaries and remarkable ordinary people, who all have a story and a gift to share.

One of the hardest aspects of the pandemic was disconnection from each other, losing things we often take for granted like seeing friends and family, going out to eat or seeing a movie. Appreciating the little things in life, being grateful for what you do have, is a beginning step going forward out of this pandemic.

How does gratitude connect to nature, and to its preservation?

When you watch a bee pollinate a flower, filling you with wonder and awe, that makes you present in the moment, and that beauty and awareness engenders gratitude. Gratitude for the sweet fragrance the flowers give, gratitude for the fruits, nuts, seeds, and vegetables that will unfold from what I just witnessed. And since I love it, and comprehend that it is the foundation of life, I will do everything I can to protect it.

What does gratitude mean for you personally?

My parents were Holocaust survivors, so living under their roof I saw how grateful they were for every blessing that came their way, a roof over their heads, food on the table, a steady job, and the miracle of being able to have children after what they went through.

How does gratitude connect to the world of the senses – in particular, smell?

I am grateful for the colors, patterns, rhythms, textures and aromas that flowers give us, seducing us to love and care for them, manipulating me to have cameras filming them in time lapse non-stop, 24/7, for over four decades. Squeezing 40 years into 20 hours of film.

How do you think people can become more mindful about experiencing life from a perspective of gratitude?

When you are grateful, you are present, which is what mindfulness is all about: Not thinking about the past or future, but truly being present with another person or in nature. Being present with yourself is what meditation strives for, and we can shortcut that practice by just being grateful.

What can we do to encourage it in others?

If you express your gratitude for others, it actually makes you feel good. And the person you shared your gratitude with will share the gift of gratitude with someone they are grateful for, and the energy of love and compassion keeps rippling out exponentially.

How can taking the time to appreciate the small, beautiful things around us – like blooming flowers or the scent of a perfume – enhance our happiness?

Not only do these moments of appreciation make us present, which is medicinal and good for the soul, but it also pulls you out of the draining world of social media, being distracted by eye candy that is not nutritious. When you fill your mind with good feelings, there is little room left for negative thoughts to enter.

What have been some of the most profound examples of gratitude that you witnessed when making your film?

Filming Erik Weihenmayer, the blind ice climber who climbed Mount Everest. He lost his vision as a teenager and yet overcame adversity and climbed the seven highest summits, and had a family. Courage and resilience are a big part of gratitude because, as Erik said, “sometimes things are taken away, and sometimes things are given to you, and you have to appreciate the things that you have.” These are the stories I love to tell.

What do you consider the mission of your work as a whole?

To unveil the mysteries, by making the invisible, visible, so we can celebrate life.

What has been most satisfying about your collaboration with TFF?

Working with Linda Levy and her team, who bring such passion and creativity to this wonderful event and organization.

TFF Awards 2022 on June 9th at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center in NYC was an extraordinary reunion of the fragrance community after 3 long years. We had an exciting lineup of presenters along with dynamic co-hosts Mario and Courtney Lopez who all share our passion for fragrance as well as our commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF. This signature event included TFF Awards Finalists to celebrate, announcements of TFF Awards Winners and featured iconic Honorees Jeff Gennette of Macy’s Inc. and François Demachy formerly at Dior.

The theme of the evening was Gratitude based on a creative collaboration with award winning artist and filmmaker Louie Schwartzberg. Louie’s incredible time lapse cinematography capturing flowers in miraculous ways brought grandeur to the presentations of all categories of awards.

For all of us in the fragrance community who have great respect and admiration of nature, we had a new guide in Louie who joined me on stage to share his vision. In addition videos of flowers in kaleidoscope mandalas opened and closed the presentations.

We inducted Jeff Gennette into The Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame. This award from the Fragrance Foundation is our way of recognizing a person in the industry who has contributed in a significant and impactful way to the fragrance business. In addition, the person to whom we award this honor must be aligned with our mission and our values. Personally and professionally, Jeff Gennette exemplifies all we stand for at TFF.

Our 2022 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer François Demachy was honored and met many of us for the first time in person after a long pandemic delay. However all of us were happy to hear from François “that it all started for him in New York” where at long last he was returning to be celebrated for his many achievements. I have gotten to know François from across the pond for decades, as I had the exhilarating experience launching Dior Sauvage as a retailer. We had a plan and instead we set a sales record for a launch together.

If you were not able to join us in person June 9th, please experience the highlights at TFF’s website or just click here for the sizzle reel and individual TFF Awards Winners.

Thank you to the entire fragrance community for your support of TFF Awards and throughout the entire year! We are grateful for all of you.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

A few years ago, it might have been hard to imagine the impact that the pandemic has had on the fragrance industry, particularly in the way that it sparked an explosion of the home scent category. With people spending so much more time in their personal spaces, scented candles, diffusers and other ambient fragrances took on new importance: They became tools to create or alter moods, to mark time, and to deliver joy and peace in a time of chaos. Now that the consumer has truly been awakened to their magic, home scents are certain to remain strong. They have become as much a part of the fabric of our lives as the perfumes we wear on our skin: Just as desirable, and thanks to the continued innovation of imaginative brands, increasingly as creative and diverse. Here, the finalists for the 2022 TFF Candle & Home Collection of the Year Award reflect on the state of the industry and share the inspiration behind their lauded products.  

Boy Smells, Fantôme Collection

Matthew Herman, Co-Founder & Creator                     

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Starting in March of 2020 we saw dramatic increases in demand for the candle and home fragrance category. During these uncertain times the home has become much more than just a place to sleep. It has become an office, a sanctuary, and an extension of ourselves and our identities. Being able to bring small luxuries into the lives of our customers and offer some respite from external stressors brings us a lot of joy. In 2021-2022 specifically, we saw dramatic year over year growth in both home and personal fragrance. It’s been great to participate in the fragrance conversation at a time when it seems to be so greatly appreciated by the consumer. 

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

One of our brand pillars is what we call the ritual of closeness. This is the customer’s ability to self define selfcare. We believe that becoming true to yourself is paramount to your quantity of life. Our Fantôme Collection celebrates this with olfactive structures that encourage a ritualistic sense of meditation. Each of the three scents takes one hero accord, whether that be Thè, Iris or Copal and mixes it with deep smoked accords of wood, leather and spices. Each of the hero accords has an eternal sensibility to them as well as a rich history of different cultural usage throughout time. We hope these very focused olfactive creations induce introspection and reflection. 

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Creating Boy Smells is a creative second act for myself and David Kien, our other Co-Founder. Having started in fashion and joined the fragrance industry not through training but through deep admiration and personal love it is humbling and astonishing that we have been recognized by The Fragrance Foundation. Being nominated alongside these iconic brands and legendary noses is a highlight of our journey so far. 

dipytque Paris, Curiosity is a Treasure

Julien Gommichon, President Americas

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Over the past two years, consumers have become increasingly invested in their homes and wellbeing; during this time the brand acquired new clients, discovering the brand online, and through our recent store expansions and incredible 60th anniversary celebration last year. The brand also continues to innovate and add newness to the category, most recently with the introduction of the reed diffuser, which is seeing great success and adding incremental sales to the home category.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

This was our fifth and final collection of diptyque’s very exciting 60th anniversary year. The common thread of this collection is curiosity, an inheritance passed on by the trio of founding artists who were all astute collectors. Their ability to discern the beauty in all things and unearth wonders led to the success of the Maison. This collection encapsulates this curious lifestyle, which brought us a whimsical and giftable holiday collection.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

We are thrilled to be included in this category. Our holiday collections are always so near and dear to the brand’s heart; an annual moment that reflects the core ethos of our founders. The success of this collection is now being further emulated through this nomination, reflecting the growing desirability of the brand.

Jo Malone London, Townhouse Collection Diffusers

Celine Roux, Head of Fragrance Development

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Jo Malone London has always been a lifestyle brand offering scents for the home which create scented stories tailored to any and every space.

Scenting your lifestyle has become even more important recently, where people want to create their own unique space which feels right for them. At Jo Malone London, we experienced unprecedented growth in our home category within the last few years, with significant uplift in our Global Home mix of business, especially our Candles and Diffusers.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

In Autumn 2020, we launched The Townhouse Collection – a new selection of scents created for the home that takes inspiration from the scented scenes and celebrated moments within a London townhouse; from freshly baked temptations in the drawing room to colorful stories among the vines in the garden room. Six candles make up the collection, each one capturing the unique mood of a particular room or moment within the home.

Wild Berry & Bramble is our ‘welcome home’ scent; a scented pathway leading you to the Townhouse. It was important to have an opening scent in the collection because it’s something you experience when you walk into a person’s home. We felt ours had to be very British and outdoorsy, with this fantastical image of arching brambles and sun-warmed bushes brimming with berries. It creates an inviting mood; it is so joyful and juicy thanks to the fruity blackcurrants and the refined aromatic facets of clary sage and geranium.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

For us, it’s always a real honor to be recognised by our consumers.

Mizensir, Winter Candle Collection

Alberto Morillas, Master Perfumer & Founder

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

The Candle & Home fragrance category is a growing market. It is a market that has become more and more important because it has become a lifestyle. People like to buy candles to personalize their interior. It’s a sign of refinement. There are more and more brands on the market so there is something for every taste and budget, like perfumes!

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

For the Winter Collection, I wanted to create a poetic and imaged collection by bringing together rich and varied emotions via subtle notes, both delicate and suggestive. Each of the Winter edition scents tells a story, the names of which are the titles: the mountain, the chalet, the coziness, the vacations, the emotions, the memories and the well-being. It is a reflection of my universe and my vision of winter.

With these candles, I wanted you to be able to travel and dream even if you are at home. It is an opening of the mind and imagination.

Let yourself be spellbound and seduced by these fragrances that will catch you by surprise with their magical contents.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

For Mizensir and myself, it is a huge honor to be selected for the Consumer Choice category. It makes me happy because there are so many choices and brands on the market and it means that many people have been seduced by Mizensir’s signature and know-how. This is really important to us.

Nest New York, Wild Mint & Eucalyptus Home Fragrance Collection

Laura Slatkin, Founder

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

As the greater population remained working from home, or spending more time at home in the past year, the “Scent your Sanctuary” trend continued. During 2020, people found great comfort in fragrancing their homes and creating an enjoyable ambiance to soothe their souls or awaken their senses. Home fragrance is now an important ritual for one’s everyday lifestyle.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

The inspiration for Wild Mint and Eucalyptus fragrance and our move into the wellness category began five years ago. I experienced this amazing eucalyptus fragrance in the steam room of The Beverly Hills Hotel while on a trip touring colleges with my daughter, Ali. It was so extraordinary to enter The Beverly Hills hotel steam room and inhale this amazing aroma—it immediately lifted my spirits, rejuvenated me and cleared my mind. We asked Jerome Epinette to create a fragrance inspired by the essence of Eucalyptus and we created this outstanding fragrance together—Wild Mint and Eucalyptus. That single experience was the starting point that inspired us to turn to time-honored botanicals and create a collection of wellness fragrances that could enhance one’s body, mind, and spirit.  

 What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Both The Fragrance Foundation and being nominated for this award is very important to everyone at NEST and to me, both professionally and personally. It’s the industry’s stamp of approval for work well done. It’s a great honor to be nominated —but we want to win!

The Consumer’s Choice awards category is an important one for TFF and the fragrance brands that are nominated, for it truly represents the voice of the shoppers who are buying and enjoying fragrance. This year, the diverse array of nominees is testament to the breadth, creativity, and robust health of the fragrance business as a whole. For this month’s Accords, we quizzed the contenders for Women’s Prestige, Women’s Popular, and Men’s about what it takes to make a crowd-pleasing scent.

Women’s Prestige

Dolce & Gabbana, Dolce Rose

Virginie Bourliere,  US VP Marketing for Shiseido Fragrances

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

One of the latest flowers to join the Dolce bouquet, Dolce Rose expresses a new facet of the Dolce girl – bold, upbeat, and sociable – while also celebrating the most iconic of flowers, the rose. The rose acts as a symbol of love, beauty and femininity that is one of Dolce&Gabbana’s iconic patterns. The fragrance, crafted by perfumer Violaine Collas, is an addictive fruity floral, combining delicate rose absolute and crisp rose centifolia with soft musks and tangy redcurrants. Joyful and full of energy, Dolce Rose is a rose of exquisite allure.

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

With this fragrance being especially geared towards our Gen Z audience, Dolce Rose is meant to be playful, fun and energetic. Every component of the fragrance, from the rosy hue of the glass bottle to the vibrant red flower cap, reflects the vivacious spirit of the fragrance. Like its counterparts in the Dolce bouquet fragrance collection, Dolce Rose captures a fun and happy attitude in a fragrance that emulates the lively and daring approach of the Dolce girl: a girl with a vibrant mood and playful energy who speaks her mind and brings her spontaneous feminine spirit to the streets.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

It’s an incredible honor to be among such worthy competition and it’s a testament to our partners and our teams for making this fragrance a great success and for being so well received by our customers.  

 

Kayali, Vanilla 28

Mona Kattan, Founder

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

As a fan of gourmand fragrances, vanilla has always been a go-to note for me, and when we were creating this juice, I wanted something super addictive and indulgent but also comforting and delicious. It was important that this juice could stand on its own or be the perfect topper when it came to pairing it with other scents. I always say Vanilla | 28 is like the whipped cream on your favorite dessert. It just makes everything sweeter, more delicious. 

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

When we were developing this brand, Vanilla | 28 was launched with three of our other juices to reflect my love of fragrance layering. All the fragrances were designed to stand on their own and to be layered with others from the original collection to create a certain mood. We got so much criticism in the beginning with people saying, ‘You’re going to tell people to buy two perfumes, you’re insane!’ But layering is so authentic to my heritage and my fragrance experience and I wanted to share that ritual. I owe a lot of the success of this juice to the fragrance community. They have been so supportive and sometimes I truly have to pinch myself when I watch YouTube reviews and TikTok videos showing what they are layering with Vanilla | 28. The love has been overwhelming!

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer’s Choice category?

“It’s surreal to be amongst so many legendary brands. We launched Kayali less than four years ago and it’s been such a challenging journey. There’s been many times where I thought we would not be able to survive as an indie niche brand trying to do something very differently – but with the incredible support of our community and our amazing team, we’ve been able to create something really special and it’s such an honor to be nominated.

MCM

Jean Madar, CEO of Interparfums, INC.

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Capturing the essence of the brand’s DNA of travel, MCM Eau de Parfum is a transcending journey. Fragrance deconstructed, this spirited floral woody aroma remixes classic perfumery with cutting edge technology resulting in a disruptive scent designed for the global nomad generation. Drawing inspiration from MCM’s cult-classic Stark backpack, the one-of-a-kind bottle design represents an unmistakable synergy between fashion and fragrance.

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

MCM is synonymous with freedom of movement, hence we wanted to conceptualize our DNA of mobility through a fragrance that captures the essence of discovery–from sentiment to scent. Our consumer is not confined by rules, gender, boundaries, or location–travel is their creative expression. The MCM fragrance joins them on their voyage of exploration and discovery across real and virtual worlds.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

We are truly honored by the outpouring of consumer love for the brand. We believe in every person’s right to express themselves. We find ourselves constantly inspired by this creative and curious new generation of universal citizens, all of whom represent a perpetually mobile tribe of style-setters who freely write their own stories without rules or boundaries.

Women’s Popular

Billie Eilish, Eilish

Lori Singer, President Parlux

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

The fragrance is purely a creation of Billie’s own necessity because she, in her own words in an Allure feature, “desperately wanted to wear something that didn’t exist… yet.”  The captivating Amber Gourmand scent, featuring notes of sugared petals, soft spices and vanilla is one that the star had been chasing for years and years, until finally, she created it. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

Billie wanted her fragrance to be personal, relatable and intimate. She says, “I just want everybody to be able to see themselves in this bottle and see whoever they wanted to see in the bottle.” “It’s really about embracing yourself, being confident, and loving how you look and the way you feel.” 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Billie was quoted in Vogue saying “Perfumes have been one of my greatest joys in life, and I’ve always wanted to make one.” So Eilish being a Finalist for the Consumer Choice category has made the star “Happier Than Ever.”

Dolly Parton, Scent from Above

Dolly Parton

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance? 

I have been dreaming of my own fragrance for years and I feel like it really was “Scent From Above.” It’s bright and irresistible like butterflies in a garden. It has top notes of mandarin, blackcurrant, crisp pear and fresh peony, heart notes of jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and vanilla, and base notes of sandalwood, fir, musk, tonka bean, amber and patchouli. Overall it’s really just floral, fruity, casual and feminine. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers? 

The first part that was important to me was that I personally loved it. I have been experimenting with fragrances all my life, mixing and matching scents and oils, flowers and soaps; Anything that I thought smelled pretty, I wanted to try. As an adult, I’ve been blending my own scents together to come up with my personal signature scent. I only hoped that it would strike a chord with other people, and it looks like it has. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

What an honor! I am so proud that we were considered at all, let alone becoming a finalist. All my life I have loved playing in beauty products. Lotions, makeup and of course perfume. Being a finalist in this category means the world to me because it’s for the fans, and I just love that! 

Guess, Bella Vita

Jean Madar, CEO of Interparfums, INC.

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

GUESS is known for its iconic advertising imagery featuring women who embrace all facets of life and the power of their femininity.  This fragrance was inspired by the confidence of the Guess women who celebrate and enjoy life, who create their unique story, their beautiful life, their own “Bella Vita”! 

Designed to celebrate the allure in the personality of the GUESS women, Bella Vita is a floral amber fragrance that opens with bright sparkling top notes, then transitions to a hypnotic luscious heart, and finally leaves a sensual radiant trail. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

Fragrance has the power to create an emotional connection.  We wanted to create a scent that would immediately transport us to the glamorous iconic world of GUESS. The GUESS Bella Vita fragrance unmistakably conveys these elements with an irresistible twist, so the consumer has an instant connection to the brand they know and love. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

GUESS is thrilled that Bella Vita is a finalist for the Consumer Choice category! Bella Vita is the first feminine blockbuster fragrance created by Interparfums for the GUESS brand. We are truly honored to receive recognition for bringing the passionate, zesty spirit of Bella Vita to life and our work in elevating GUESS in the world of fragrance. It is exciting for us to see how much the consumer continues to embrace the iconic glamour status of the brand. 

Philosophy, Amazing Grace Jasmine

Taous Bellahsene, philosophy Global Marketing Senior Director

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

With Amazing Grace Jasmine eau de Toilette, we wanted to create a fresh, luminous and comforting twist on our iconic favorite — Amazing Grace eau de Toilette. The team was inspired by the delicate and sensuous quality of the jasmine flower, translating it into a modern and alluring fragrance story and bright, eye-catching packaging.

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

The most important element was to keep the connection between the Amazing Grace eau de Toilette and the new twist — which is the softness of the fragrance and the easy to wear aspect — while modernizing the Amazing Grace story with a distinct emotional facet.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

It’s a true honor for Amazing Grace Jasmine eau de Toilette to be included in the finalists — a testament to how the ‘whisper-soft’ quality and timeless sillage of Amazing Grace resonate with consumers around the world.

Victoria’s Secret Tease Crème Cloud

Kristen Lagoa, Vice President of Merchandising, Beauty and Accessories 

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

When developing Tease Crème Cloud we were looking to expand upon the gourmand positioning of our Tease fragrance. We were looking for a fragrance that still exuded Tease’s playful positioning but in a softer, dreamier way. When we first smelled Tease Crème Cloud we were instantly attracted to its light-as-air sweetness which is led by the whipped vanilla meringue. It then opens up to a luminous floral heart of exotic santal flower—which gives it this addictive hook. At the base is a bare musk accord that softly floats on skin. The scent inspired everything: the name, the design, the marketing campaign. When you experience it you feel like you are floating on a delicious cloud.

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

A fragrance must be emotional, it has to take you somewhere. That doesn’t necessarily mean a physical place, but can be a mindset. Customers connect with fragrances that fit their various moods and personalities. That emotion, then, must come through as a well told story across every aspect of the fragrance. Secondly, it must be memorable. There are so many fragrances out there. We are always looking for that note or combination of notes that pull you in so you always go back for more. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

Our customer is at the heart of everything we do. For our product to have made enough of an impact for them to take time out of their day to recognize us…there is no greater honor.   

Men’s

Burberry, Hero

Aurélien Guichard, Perfumer

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Burberry Hero features a new masculine spirit exploring the house codes of duality and the power of the animal kingdom. A man in search of transformation and metamorphosis as new modern heroism.

On a personal level, in the middle of my property in the south of France (where I grow rose centifolia), 3 majestic cedar trees dominate the land and overlook the fields of roses. They must be around 50 meters high now. They are strong, they live through a generation of people and they are of extreme beauty. Last year, one cedar got struck by lightning… a year later, the magic scent of the wood remains in the air and the tree still stands. This fragrance is a tribute to this tree.

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

The success of a fragrance, I believe, comes in how close the final version is to the initial concept, and how well it pairs with the campaign, the bottle, and the name. The talent involved will all contribute to the success. The fragrance is one element and a very important one, but success is found in the strong link to the brand heritage and the vision of the designer. 

Stetson, Spirit

Emmanuelle Bonte, Chief Marketing Officer

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Stetson Spirit was inspired by the 40 year relationship of the Stetson Original with its customers. As an iconic American brand, Stetson has always stood for the pioneering, authentic, adaptable, and diverse core of the American spirit and Stetson Spirit continues to build upon that. Stetson Spirit captures the energy of younger consumers into a scent that’s fresh, vibrant, and rooted in adventure. 

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

It’s not often that we see a bold, updated idea of a brand that is iconic and embodies the spirit of Americana. With the Stetson Spirit, we embrace a new generation of adventure. from ranchers and cowboys to musicians and mavericks. Stetson Spirit is made for each individual style whether they adventure outdoors or around the city. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

We see the launch of Stetson Spirit as a reflection of our evolving times, a fragrance that captures the desire for adventure, freedom, and individuality. We are honored to be recognized for our bold reimagination to reflect our evolving times. 

Tumi, Continuum [12:00 GMT]

Alex Shalbaf, President and CEO

 What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

As the third fragrance introduction from TUMI fragrances, Continuum [12:00 GMT] TUMI Eau de Parfum was created as a celebration of adventure in achievements, the perfect companion on his journey, whatever it may be.

The Perfumer, Catherine Selig, described her inspiration as “Crafted around the idea of fusing an unforgettable, earthy ingredient such as tobacco leaf into a drydown of precious ingredients to reinvent the classic oriental structure. A juxtaposition of ingredients that work harmoniously together to create a raw sophistication, an olfactive duality that is hard to resist.”

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

A fragrance that instantly connects with the consumer is a fragrance that stands out in the men’s category. Not only does the fragrance need to be aesthetically pleasing to the male or female consumer, it must also capture their senses. Additionally, the accessibility of the fragrance is very important in today’s market. Continuum [12:00 GMT] TUMI Eau de Parfum definitely represents a fragrance that stands out in the men’s category.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

It is truly an honor to be recognized by the Fragrance Foundation, especially to be nominated for an award that will be voted on by consumers. It is also validation of the hard work by the many people that brought Continuum [12:00 GMT] Eau de Parfum to the market.  

VS Him Deepwater

Kristen Lagoa, Vice President of Merchandising, Beauty and Accessories

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

While many customers love our Men’s Fragrance VS Him Platinum we were noticing more and more customers coming in asking for a fresh olfactive as an alternative to the woody scent of Platinum. The Team worked on this fragrance that opens with bright notes of Frozen Bergamot mixed with aromatic fresh water and Blue Sage. All wrapped in a deep, comforting layer of woody Cedar Leaf. 

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

Just like a women’s fragrance, a men’s fragrance has to transport you, it has to convey a story. I think VS Him Deepwater is a very visual fragrance. When I smell it, I can picture myself floating in the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?  

Our customer is at the heart of everything we do. For our product to have made enough of an impact for them to take time out of their day to recognize us…there is no greater honor. 

What constitutes a Perfume Extraordinaire? Many things: Unique or especially tantalizing ingredients, an unusual composition, a stop-you-in-your-tracks olfactive impact, powerful storytelling. But perhaps more than anything else it comes down to a certain verve on behalf of the perfumer—a facility with raw materials and a willingness to take risks. Here, the noses behind the 2022 TFF Perfume Extraordinaire nominees share their inspirations and give us a peek into their creative processes.   

 

D.S. & Durga St. Vetyver, David Seth Moltz

What was your inspiration for St. Vetyver?

Whenever I travel to the Caribbean, I look for local made cologne. You often find them wrapped in jute sitting in baskets on the floor of shops. They smell old-fashioned and recall sailors of the high seas with aromas of bay rhum and citrus. ST. VETYVER places one of the most beautiful extracts of the region (Top Fraction Haitian Vetyver) into a spicy sailor cologne reimagined for modern tastes. 

What did you want the experience of wearing this scent to be like?

I think ST. VETYVER gives one the chance to armchair travel to Caribbean climes with carefree airs by the sea. It smells fancy and of old world sophistication, sort of like aromatic resort wear.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It is a great honor to be considered for this based upon the juice alone! It is perhaps the “purest” award for a perfumer. Good luck to everyone!

Kilian L’Heure Vert, Mathieu Nardin

What was your starting point for L’Heure Verte?

The creative idea behind L’Heure Verte came to life during a scented session with Kilian. Kilian and I were smelling and sharing about MANE’s raw materials when we came across Absinth. Absinth, a bold, exquisite and powerful ingredient with a storytelling that perfectly fitted with the spirit of Kilian’s Liquors collection. Indeed, a few decades back, Absinth was known to be the signature drink of the traditional “Happy Hour” and served with a touch of sugar. From this intoxicating note, we chose a triptych of Violet leaves absolute, Patchouli Gayo Pure Jungle Essence™ and Licorice absolute to enrich and contrast Absinth, the star ingredient of this new opus.

How do the notes that you used conjure the feeling or atmosphere you wanted the perfume to have?

Absinth is a challenging raw material to craft with. Its rich aromatic scent is difficult to tame and control. Therefore, I chose to embrace it with Patchouli Gayo Pure Jungle Essence™ to enrich the intoxicating facet of Absinth with a darker sensuality. Then a duo Violet Leaves and Licorice, to enhance the intoxicating aromatic and herbaceous notes. A perfume with an addictive and unforgettable sillage.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It is a recognition to be nominated and selected among the finalists by experts with whom I share a passion for fragrances. It was a challenging creation, but thanks to Kilian’s strong beliefs and vision, the project gorgeously came to be.

LilaNur Parfums Davana Cèdre, Honorine Blanc

What was the inspiration behind Davana Cèdre?

With Davana Cèdre, I wanted to get out of my comfort zone and play with cedarwood and beautiful Indian ingredients in a new way. The idea behind this fragrance is to magnify all the facets of cedarwood, even its imperfections. This is why I combined it with naturals, such as herbaceous davana, and an earthy, spicy angelique. Unique Firmenich musks also helped to enhance the warm sensuality of the cedarwood on the skin.

How did you approach working with the unique ingredients to create a fragrance that honors India?

The two main pillars of this fragrance are davana and cedarwood. On one hand, the cedarwood brings the strength, the intensity of life in India and its wild and vibrant nature – a strong energy I felt when I was there. The davana, on the other hand, brings the sacred spirituality. The elevated spirituality that I experienced while meditating in temples is an intense emotion that I can’t forget. Thanks to Lilanur, I was able to capture and bring back all these memories in Davana Cèdre.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It’s an honor to be nominated in this unique category. It highlights the choice of ingredients, the structure of the fragrance and the creativity of the perfumer. It’s all about the métier.

Maison Margiela Replica Matcha Meditation, Maurice Roucel & Alexandra Carlin

What was the initial inspiration behind this fragrance?

Alexandra: I wanted to “replicate” the state of complete harmony of the body, mind and soul you reach after meditation or a yoga session. To me it’s a moment of bliss and serenity which I like to extend by drinking matcha tea. I feel like really connecting to nature. Focusing on the now, being in the moment, feeling the flow! At this moment my senses are awake and I’m in the best state of mind for creation. Matcha is also called the “Meditation” tea.

Maurice: A while ago in Tokyo on a fast-paced journey. I remember this timeless moment : a tea ceremony.  It was a very codified traditional ritual, a privileged moment that allowed me to re-focus. Simplicity, purity and peace of mind. Just like yoga, and creating a perfume, preparing matcha tea requires precise gestures, patience and concentration.

What was the creation process like?

Alexandra: Making a perfume is telling a story and giving emotion. In this quest, ingredients are “perfumers’ words”. We associate each one to a color, a sensation, a place, a noise, anything which will help us to memorize them and use them in perfumes. Matcha tea has a green seaweed bitterness and a milky sweetness. It was important to have this contrast in Matcha Meditation and it took several months to find the good balance. The second pillar is orange blossom, whose smell and taste are linked to bliss and childhood in many cultures. 

Maurice: We wanted to explore the facets of Matcha tea and create a new addictive freshness built on citrus, tea notes and comfortable warm notes of matcha using sandalwood, benzoin and white chocolate. I worked on many tea notes in my career but Matcha tea is so intriguing and unusual in Perfumery that I said “yes !” to Alexandra when she asked me to work with her. 

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

Alexandra: It means a lot to me, first of all that we managed to bring our imagination to life and that our perfume touched people. This is why we create perfumes, to provide happiness and emotion. Then, that we were right to be bold, trying a completely different way to create a tea note in perfumes. So happy to be nominated with the one who was my mentor in Symrise and gave me so much.

Tom Ford Ebene Fume, Rodrigo Flores-Roux

What was the starting point for Ébène Fumé?

The original inspiration comes from Tom Ford himself. He loves rich woody characters and is always interested in exploring new dimensions of that olfactive universe. He then discovered Palo Santo (which literally translates to “holy wood” or “saintly wood”) which is the resinous wood of an aromatic tree endemic to the Americas. Its wood and resin emit a powerful incense like scent, and are particularly redolent while being burnt. Mr Ford wanted to evoke a meditative, introspective feeling through a sensual and thought provoking scent, rich in new woody nuances. At that time, I had been working on a rich and powerful woody harmony and it was only natural to graft a rich Palo Santo accord to it, perfected through burning the wood and also using Givaudan’s ScentTrek™ technology. This resulted in a mysterious, perfumed talisman that could connect Earth to Heaven…and beyond.

What do you believe makes this fragrance so special?

I love to think that while Ébène Fumé is nature at its most mysterious and enigmatic, it becomes extremely amplified through the high tech woody ambery ingredients. This innovative encounter ushers both a rich natural feeling and a highly abstract fragrant message. Watching the volutes of thick, fragrant Palo Santo smoke, the image of a black, highly polished object came to mind, intriguingly holy. The scent vocabulary was a parade of Palo Santo wood accord, African Ebony Wood, black pepper, coniferous notes and rose. Ébène Fumé is a unique combination of dark elements that delivers a flash of bright light, a perfume harmony that transcends with spirituality and meditative calm.  

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

I couldn’t feel more honored and privileged to be one of the nominees for this prestigious award. I am very proud and humbled to receive this acknowledgement from my peers and from notable members of the perfume industry of today, so all my gratitude goes to them for it. Additionally, I am celebrating my 30th year working as a perfumer, so being part of this list of candidates feels particularly special. Again, thank you!

We are in the final countdown to June 9th for the 2022 TFF Awards, where we will gather in person for the first time in 3 years for this signature event. Now is the perfect opportunity to celebrate TFFAwards Finalists and share the storytelling behind 5 TFF Award categories. While several awards categories are voted on by TFF members to determine the ultimate winners, these Finalists ultimate winners are determined otherwise. 

In our Accords sections’ “Spotlight” + “Scents and Sensibility”, we feature those Finalists in the 4 Consumer Choice categories where consumers submit ballots to determine the ultimate winner. We asked the creators or brand leaders of those who achieved Finalist status to share their inspiration and their perspective on the significance of being a Finalist. Unfortunately, a few Finalists were not able to provide their responses in time for publication.

Accords’ “What the Nose Knows”  features the Perfumers who created the Finalists for Perfume Extraordinaire, the exceptional award based only on the fragrance itself. This is the only award category eligible for nominations by fragrance houses or brands with in-house perfumers. It is judged confidentially and anonymously by perfumers who were not creators of nominations this year. The expert judges complete a confidential ballot focused only on the fragrance itself with a variety of evaluations, and each of the fragrances are submitted in a standard “agnostic” bottle, so that there is no identity.

Every year I advocate celebrating all the Finalists, not just the winners.

This year, more than ever, I must emphasize that reaching Finalist status

which was achieved by indies, mid sized brands and mega-sized brands was a major competition with many in a close race to the final count. 

While all winners for each category will be announced live at the TFF Awards June 9th, let’s celebrate all the Finalists and all who attend and be grateful for this major reunion of the community!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

Sustainability can have different meanings for different brands, but all can agree one thing: its importance. From recyclable packaging components to the way that ingredients are sourced and processed, the fragrance industry is stepping up to ensure that the impact it makes on the planet is minimal and responsible. Consumers, too, are driving this change, with increasing expectations regarding brands’ transparency regarding environmentally friendly practices. For Earth Month, ACCORDS tapped four brands with strong sustainability messages—Ralph Lauren Polo Earth, Costa Brazil, Amen Candles & House of Bō—to talk about what they are doing to protect the planet, and what we can look forward to in the future from the fragrance industry as a whole.

Alex Choueiri, Ralph Lauren, L’Oréal

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

Sustainability has become an essential part of what all industries need to focus on. Our communities, our employees and our customers are expecting that from us. For the fragrance industry to continue to thrive, we have to revisit everything we do and try to improve. 

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

With the launch of Polo Earth we tried to do a deep dive on every aspect of our marketing mix and tried to push the boundaries to make our product as consciously designed as we can. We learned in that process and started implementing some of the learning (refillability, lighter glass weight, sustainably sourced verified ingredients, post consumer recycled carton and glass) to other products in our range.         

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

We hope we will continue the journey. We dream of seeing plastic free pumps. Our wooden cap will no longer have a plastic insert from next year. We are also working with all fragrance houses to increase the number of certified sustainable ingredients and fair trade certifications. Much more needs doing but it is an exciting journey.

Francisco Costa, Costa Brazil, Amyris

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

Sustainability needs to be important for all brands right now. For me, and Costa Brazil, it marks the beginning of our story. When I first went into the Amazon and learned more about the benefits of Brazilian ingredients, and self-care rituals from the Yawanawas, I directly sourced everything from them. It was as clear and simple as I’d hoped it could be. Of course, as we grew, the challenge became how to scale and continue to be sustainable. Fortunately, that’s when I met Amyris, leaders in biotechnology and now our parent company. They have helped us choose an even more sustainable path, from packaging to procurement to providing products like Aroma with proprietary ingredients such as Clean Ethanol, which is a non-toxic alternative to other ethanol alcohols because it’s derived from Bonsucro-certified sugarcane, not petrol, it’s non-GMO and, to top it off, it’s upcycled. It’s better for the environment, and you, without sacrificing efficacy. Today, we’re more sustainable than I could have ever imagined.

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

Sustainability is part of the everyday for us. We are always talking about ways to improve, across all tentpoles: animal, environmental and human welfare. We are sustainably sourced, environmentally responsible, cruelty free, and we truly care about our partners on the ground in the Amazon. That said, every time I go back into the rainforest, and witness just how hard and long a sourcing trip for a single ingredient like Breu is, I realize how unsustainable it is for those communities. 

 Currently, we’re in the process of formalizing an agreement that supports these communities through commitments to buy directly from them, and at a fair price, an acknowledgment of their hard work and culture, while also developing sustainable alternative ingredients in the Amyris lab. This way, we can harvest at the amount that will help the forest and its people thrive, but also allow us to scale and push the conversation around clean science.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

Safer ingredients. More transparency. Cleaner science. Ongoing respect for nature. There is so much potential when it comes to fragrance. In the office, we have been speaking a lot about the direct line scent has into our immune systems. I want to change the purpose of fragrance. They shouldn’t mask who you are or be worn for others; they should be worn for you, to make you feel better, and help you smell like the best version of yourself. And they should be free of toxins and full of benefits like phytoncides, which are chemicals emitted from trees that have a proven physiological effect on our parasympathetic nervous systems. Aroma evokes such chemicals. How incredible is that? The future of clean beauty and particularly fragrance is incredibly bright.

Rodrigo Garcia, AMEN Candles

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

The oceans are speaking, the earth and climate are calling us to immediate action. Sustainability is not enough and it’s time for Regeneration. Fragrance brands have been using plastics and contributing to plastic contamination to the ocean for decades and this has to stop. We know it is hard, we don’t claim to be perfect, and we don’t expect to fix issues overnight, but what is important is to start incorporating this in all new products and make incremental changes. The philosophy should be  “As Sustainable As Possible As Soon As Possible”. 

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

AMEN started because I was having headaches from paraffin candles, and after searching for many years I partnered with an artisanal candle maker in Grasse to create paraffin-free sustainable candles using vegetal wax. It resulted in a unique combination of sustainability principles with French savoir-faire and high-end design. So since inception we started free of oil-derivative paraffin, and then while defining packaging we refused to use packaging that takes 500 years to decompose for a candle that only burns for 50 hours, and decided to ‘grow’ mushrooms carbon negative packaging for our candles.

AMEN is not about measures that we took to be sustainable, but about our way of thinking to be sustainable from the beginning, is in our DNA, and this is actually how sustainability is taught at universities, is not one measure, but a way of thinking and considering the sustainability aspect of every decision.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

There will be two main changes: in the short term a plastic ban on packaging and in the long term a shift to more natural, conscious ingredients.

Soon, it will become unthinkable for a brand to use single-use plastic. Our mushrooms carbon negative packaging is our manifesto. It costs 10 times more than a plastic styrofoam, and as a young brand it was a tough decision to reduce our margins, but we believe that we have to lead by example and support new biodegradable alternatives whenever possible so other brands and designers see that it is possible. Clients support this initiative, and department stores are incredibly supportive, with dedicated areas like Conscious Curation at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The more brands use biodegradable alternatives, the prices will become more affordable. That is the only way to live in a world without plastics. Recycling is good for the mind to feel less guilty, but it is not good for our oceans.

I am optimistic that we can change this in the right direction. We are in a moment of awakening and shifting towards a more natural, conscious and regenerative period at all levels.

Bernardo Möller, House of Bō 

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

As we move into the future, and society has more access to information, we have become more aware of the issues that affect our planet. I think people are realizing that Earth is rare and precious and we must protect it. Sustainability has not only become a growing trend in fragrance production but in everything we do and consume. Thus, it is important to lead by example by choosing materials and manufacturers that are aligned with this message of sustainability to create an environment where conscious purchases become a priority for consumers. We call it Conscious Luxury, the responsible production of quality goods.  

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken? 

Our packaging is made from FSC certified paper, our caps are made from reclaimed travertine marble stone, and our glass bottles are manufactured from recyclable glass in a facility that uses sustainable energy. We are also currently developing a refilling program. We believe all these measures contribute to our goal of creating quality goods that minimizes our impact on the environment.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

We hope there continues to be a growing commitment within the fragrance industry to use sustainable and responsibly sourced and manufactured  ingredients. Ultimately I believe people will become more aware we are a product of this Earth, which is a system of ecosystems that are all connected. It’s in our best interest to make sure we focus more on cohabiting instead of inhabiting irresponsibly. To achieve this change we must educate and guide the consumer in the right direction by creating trends which ultimately lead to a greater impact. We have a duty to protect our environment which is ultimately the source of inspiration for everything we do.

The Finalists for TFF’s 2022 Indie Fragrance of the Year all bring something fresh and intriguing to the table. Arquiste’s Peau recreates the scent of skin; The Maker’s Stag is inspired by the modern nomad; Shalini Parfum’s Fleur Japonaise conjures the peacefulness of Sakura season in Japan; Sous le Manteau’s Odisiaque No. 6 was inspired by an 18^th century aphrodisiac recipe; and Veronique Gabai’s Le Point G celebrates female sexuality. Following this month’s TFF Awards Finalists luncheon, we asked each brand’s founders—Olivia Bransbourg, Veronique Gabai, Lev Glazman, Carlos Huber and Shalini Kumar—to share the inspirations behind these outstanding fragrances with ACCORDS.

Olivia Bransbourg

Sous le Manteau, “Odisiaque n°6”

Nathalie Feisthauer, LabScent – Perfumer

What is the inspiration behind Sous le Manteau?

It was on the rediscovery of apothecary formulas forgotten in a 19th century pharmaceutical book, in particular love potions, that I designed Sous Le Manteau: A house of confidential, intimate perfumes, which could only exist for oneself. Inspired by the bewitching power of these ancient potions, I entrusted the perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer with the mission of extracting from these aphrodisiac charms what makes their essence. A bewitchment, loving and timeless. The result is a collection of unisex fragrances decorated with the Best Newcomer Award 2020 awarded by the Fragrance Foundation UK. Poudre impériale, Fontaine Royale, Cuir d’Orient, Essence du Sérail, Vapeurs Diablotines, and Odisiaque n°6: six intriguing or addictive proposals, designed in Grasse with the finest raw materials, an 18% concentration and 100% organic alcohol. Six expressions of yesterday’s love transfigured by the olfactory language of today.

What is the story behind Odisiaque No. 6?

Odisiaque n°6 was designed to evoke the languorous state of a world that is slowly waking up. “I taste the odisiaque hour of your return.” Odisiaque n°6  draws its inspiration from an aphrodisiac formula written in the 18th century by Jean-Claude-Adrien Helvetius, great physician to Louis XV and Marie Leczynska and member of the Royal Academy of Sciences. After an aromatic and zesty accord of Bergamot and an extremely rare essence of Cascarilla specially made available for this formula, Odisiaque n°6 reveals all the warmth of a feasting heart of wild and dry grass. A short formula, whose transparency serves to sublimate the addictive, suave and carnal fragrance of the absolutes of Mate, Liatrix, Tobacco and Tonka Bean. A perfume “made to go and listen to the sea,” according to the playwright Florient Azoulay, to whom Odisiaque n°6 immediately inspired the breath of an oceanic poetry.

Veronique Gabai

Veronique Gabai, Le Point G

Frank Voelkl, Firmenich – Perfumer

What prompted you to create Veronique Gabai fragrances?

Scent is my passion and has always been my creative expression. After years creating perfumes for remarkable brands, I decided to launch my own, with the desire to bring “sunshine for the senses and the soul”. It is all about light and sensuality.

Inspired by the Cote d’Azur where I was born, my brand is there to offer a sensorial escape to the Mediterranean and a connection to Nature through our ethically sourced raw materials and an effort towards sustainability. 

Our sillages are luminous, our rendition on skin extremely sensual. 

I also wanted people to express their personality through scent, so we made this idea part of the line and the experience. Our perfumes can be layered with our Eau du Jour or Eau de la Nuit, also available in Body lotions,  to enhance either the luminosity or the sensuality, and to create a unique signature. We also made sure to offer a personality test based on the correspondence of the senses to help find the perfect one!

And then again, our clients can wear their perfume the way they want, all from re-usable beautiful objects, from our gorgeous refillable bottle, to our on the go travel case or our line of jewelry pieces containing a mini spray. Fun, gorgeous and lasting a very long time….

What was the inspiration behind Le Point G?

I am inspired by women, their generosity, their strength, their subtlety, their stories. I wanted to pay homage to their bodies, their sensuality, their pleasure and do so through the eyes of another woman, with affection, respect and a bit of humor. 

So came le Point G (or the G spot) a perfume built like a pulse, a vibration and a crescendo, from the kiss of rose and iris, the caress of musks, the soft bite of leather, the depth of woods and to the pure pleasure of vanilla. A climactic perfume in other words, one everyone would want to look for, and hopefully find! 

Frank Voelkl of Firmenich was my partner in creating this perfume, a delicate balance of softness and power, and Jennifer Massaux put it all in images, with tenderness and passion. 

Demanding skin chemistry, this perfume is quite unique, probably like our relationship with pleasure and intimacy. You have to try it for yourself!

Lev Glazman

The Maker “Stag Eau de Parfum”

Jerome Epinette, Robertet – Perfumer

What is the story behind The Maker?

Alina and I always sought to bring unique, meaningful — and simply beautiful — experiences to life and this philosophy led us to open the doors to The Maker. 

What began as a bespoke hotel redefining the bohemian travel experience in Hudson, NY, has expanded into a multi-faceted lifestyle brand with a fragrance collection inspired by inhibitions melting away— bottling hotel travel fantasies we’ve lived or long to. 

As beauty veterans who transcended to hospitality, returning to fragrance, a huge passion of mine, has allowed me to inspire guests through sensual spaces and now provocative scents.

What inspired Stag?

Stag is inspired by the modern nomad. Somebody who leaves a mark wherever they roam. Cool and charismatic, yet diabolically independent, their touch is fleeting but their impression is everlasting.

I wanted the fragrance to smell like a rich, clean blend of seductive woods, a scent that smells like innate confidence.

Carlos Huber

Arquiste Parfumeur “Peau”

Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Givaudan – Perfumer

What was the inspiration behind Arquiste as a brand?

ARQUISTE has always been about transporting you to another place in time. 

My career started in architecture and historic preservation, so when I started learning about perfume under the mentorship of Rodrigo Flores-Roux I was fascinated by the timelessness of scent: you can smell an actual eau de cologne formula created in the 17^th century and if you pay attention, it can transport you back to that world: the perfumer’s vision, the style and sense of beauty of the era and the raw materials available. 

So with that in mind, before I start a development on a fragrance, I research a fragrant setting as one would an architectural or archeological site. I like to travel and identify diverse stories from around the world that connect people and cultures. I then identify and categorize the details behind these sites into foundational, structural and ornamental notes, which in turn are translated into base, heart and top notes. 

Working with experienced and inspired perfumers like Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Yann Vasnier and Calice Becker, and using high quality, sustainable and responsibly-sourced materials completes the architectural vision of form, function and material quality. 

What was the inspiration for Peau?

Our goal with Peau was to recreate, as vividly as possible, the scent of skin: particularly, the idealized scent of a lover, the memory of their scent. No story felt more evocative than Roman Emperor Hadrian and Antinoös, his lost lover. Hadrian commissioned thousands of sculptures of Antinoös all over the Roman Empire, so that through the idealized representation of his body, his memory would be preserved forever. 

Likewise, this fragrance seeks to bottle (and preserve) the idealized scent of the human body. There’s surprising botanical ingredients like white pepper that helped us evoke that slightly spicy, salty and soft musk in skin. My favorite thing about it is that it’s ever present and familiar, while at the same time being hard to describe. Working on this with Rodrigo Flores-Roux was cathartic, especially during a year of lockdowns like that of 2020. We wanted to express longing, intimacy and closeness. To identify that special scent behind the nape of a lover’s neck that tells you you’re home. 

Shalini Kumar

Shalini Parfum “Fleur Japonaise”

Maurice Roucel, Symrise – Perfumer

What inspired you to create Shalini Parfum?  

My journey from Haute Couture to Haute Parfum was destined to happen. I had not envisioned creating a Perfume House.  It all started when I met Maurice Roucel, the renowned Master Perfumer. A friend introduced me to him when he had just moved to New York City from Paris. 

At the time, I was still creating Haute Couture for my own Fashion House, and Maurice visited my atelier. He immediately connected to the timeless elegance of my designs, and a friendship between us was born. As this friendship flourished, we decided to create together a fragrance that would echo the standards of Haute Couture – a composition of the purest, supreme-quality raw materials, executed with Maurice’s extraordinary talent and artistic sensibility.  

Our first perfume was my namesake, SHALINI, which we created on a cold, November afternoon in New York. It was an olfactive painting of my soul – inspired by childhood memories of inhaling the nocturnal beauty of tuberoses in my garden. I desired to present SHALINI in a Lalique crystal flacon that would reflect its exquisite beauty. We introduced the perfume to Bergdorf Goodman with great success, and we were asked to launch Shalini Parfum there exclusively.

What inspired Fleur Japonais?

The series of seven perfumes that I created with Maurice Roucel is inspired by the changing moods and passions of the soul.  Each of our perfumes reflects a stage in the journey of life. Nirvana is life’s final stage, during which the soul comes to the understanding of self, purpose and destiny. A sense of peacefulness prevails in that understanding. It is the transcendent beauty of life that I desired to capture in FLEUR JAPONAIS. 

In Japan, the Sakura and the Samurai are deeply connected, due to the fleeting nature of their lives. FLEUR JAPONAIS is the synergy between the softest of flowers, and the strongest of Japanese men. Naturally, the perfume is an ode to the revered Japanese cherry blossoms. The “Sakura season” is a time of renewal, as well as of celebration of life, as the pink flowers embrace the temples of Kyoto. The delicate flowers are part of the Buddhist themes of mindfulness, and of living in the present.  Maurice brilliantly added the purest frankincense to the composition, thus radiating serene strength and meditative energy.

I see FLEUR JAPONAIS as a timeless metaphor for human existence; it is soft but also tenacious, sensual in all its spirituality, and absolutely heavenly. 

We would like to express our gratitude to the judging panel of the prestigious Fragrance Foundation Awards for recognizing this perfume as one of the five 2022 Finalists in the “Indie Fragrance of the Year” category. We are extremely proud and overjoyed.

Sudden smell and taste loss has become a well-known symptom of COVID-19. However, some people have also woken up to discover that their usual beloved coffee odor has been distorted and now smells like garbage or rotting meat, a condition known as parosmia. Others smell cigarette smoke, for example, when no odor source is present, a condition called phantosmia.

Now, investigators at the Monell Chemical Senses Center, and colleagues at AbScent, the University of Reading, and Technische Universität Dresden, have teased out the differences between these two conditions and described them in the peer-reviewed journal Chemical Senses. Knowing the distinct patterns of demographics, medical history, and quality-of-life issues associated with each condition may provide insight into the organization and function of the olfactory system, as well as help physicians better treat their patients. AbScent is a non-profit charity in the UK, founded by Chrissi Kelly, dedicated to raising awareness and understanding of smell disorders.

“It’s clear from our results that these distortions in smell are distinct and common among those with smell impairment,” said lead author Robert Pellegrino, PhD, a Monell postdoctoral fellow. “Identifying patterns in these conditions is a first step to discovering their underlying biological cause.

“We hope this work will attract more research on the reason for these conditions, followed by intervention to help these patients.” For example, the team discovered that parosmia tends to occur three to six months after smell loss, so while this smell distortion has a huge effect on quality of life, it typically resolves faster than phantosmia or smell loss. “And that’s extremely useful for some patients to know,” he added. Despite the obvious differences between parosmia and phantosmia, most studies do not separate them in their analyses and have not gathered quantitative data, instead relying on narratives of anecdotal patient experiences.

The team suspected there might be important lessons to learn by studying what is unique about each condition. They designed a questionnaire to better understand nuances of these disorders of smell to produce quantitative data to describe each state, allowing them to compare and make conclusions about the differences between the conditions. From this, they created a severity metric for research and clinical use, based on the combined frequency and duration of distortion episodes.

“There are major differences in patients’ experiences with these distortions, with some more severe than others and the capacity to cause significant impact on their quality of life. This work could not have been done in the first place if it was not patient-driven,” said Pellegrino. “For instance, these patients frequently report that they are continually reminded of their disorder, which may lead to such mental health conditions as depression. This study arose out of conversations with and comments from people experiencing these difficult disorders.”

The team surveyed over 2,100 people with at least one olfactory disorder acquired during their lifetime. They found that odor distortions were common at 46 percent, with respondents reporting either parosmia at 19 percent, phantosmia at 11 percent, or both at 16 percent. They used an online questionnaire distributed globally in English, with the United Kingdom and the United States representing the largest proportion of respondents. Primary areas of recruitment were the website of the patient advocacy group AbScent and social media posts to AbScent’s Facebook and Twitter accounts. Survey data were collected between May 2019 and October 2020.

The distinctions between the disorders include:

Age and Gender: Parosmia patients were more likely to be female and younger than individuals who were phantosmic or had full (anosmic)/partial smell loss (hyposmic). In contrast, phantosmia was more prevalent in 41–50 years olds, and anosmia or hyposmia was more prominent in older individuals. There were no differences in gender between phantosmic vs. anosmic or hyposmic sufferers.

Cause: Viral infection led to parosmia more often than other smell disorders, while traumatic impact to the head led to phantosmia more often than other disorders.

Improvement Timeline: Parosmic individuals were more likely to say their condition improved over time and recovery coincides with the timeline of physiological recovery. On the other hand, phantosmia was more stable, with no change in improvement across time.

Triggers: Most parosmic patients cited specific distorted sources of smell, while only a few phantosmic individuals could identify a source of their smell distortions. When describing the triggers of distorted smelling episodes, parosmic individuals cited odors, such as roasted coffee or garlic. In contrast, phantosmic sufferers noted locations, time, specific sensory input, stress, or memories.

Word cloud of nouns used to describe triggers of parosmia, with size representing word frequency across 375 parosmics.

The neurological mechanisms of parosmia and phantosmia are still debated among scientists. The Monell team’s work supports a parosmia hypothesis that a sensory neuron (located in the nose) tuned to one odor mistakenly signals the presence of a different odor. “This miswiring may create a flip in the odor perceived, with good odors smelling bad and bad odors smelling good,” said Pellegrino. Phantosmia, on the other hand, might happen if the brain is discharging sporadic signals, leading to odor hallucinations in an individual. Next steps to untangle the cause include confirming these ideas in animal models and translating findings back into treatments to help the patients who report a dramatic impact to their quality of life.

Other research team members are Joel D. Mainland, PhD, Monell; Christine E. Kelly, MSc, AbScent; Jane K. Parker, PhD, University of Reading; and Thomas Hummel, PhD, Technische Universität Dresden.

Research was supported by the National Institute on Deafness and other Communication Disorders of the National Institutes of Health (T32DC000014).

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The Monell Chemical Senses Center is an independent nonprofit basic research institute based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Founded in 1968, Monell‘s mission is to improve health and well-being by advancing the scientific understanding of taste, smell, and related senses, where our discoveries lead to improving nutritional health, diagnosing and treating disease, addressing smell and taste loss, and digitizing chemosensory data.

Our April issue of Accords includes 3 important topics in celebration of Earth Month: sustainability, Indie Brands and an update on the sense of smell from Monell research. Although the topics seem divergent, each topic typifies what we have in common. We are united that scent is essential to our well being, enhances our lives and we all must respect our planet Earth. 

Sustainability is an important focus for the fragrance community. We are united as an industry and are implementing new practices in the entire product cycle from ingredient sourcing to the ultimate packaging. This is a journey we are on now and will be forever with fragrance houses, brands, retailers and all. We highlight leaders of brands that vary in size to show clearly how all can engage in this effort and their stories take us on travels from the jungle to the urban corporate office.

The 2022 Fragrance Foundation Awards Finalists in the Indie category represent brands each created with a unique story and point of view. They were judged objectively by a panel of experts with no brand affiliation. From TFF’s point of view indies are not competitors as each fabulous brand has its own unique personality and scents.

Once again, we thank the Monell Institute for sharing the latest significant research to keep us informed about the sense of smell. This information resonates with us all and we appreciate the clarity as there is much information available affecting those with COVID and other medical challenges that is confusing at times.

Happy Earth Day today – April 22nd! Let us all celebrate together the joy of fragrance as Spring brings us the promise of renewal and reconnecting with nature and IRL reunions!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

This year’s virtual TFF event to celebrate Fragrance Day on March 21st raised the bar for exceptional participation and engagement, and the digital program emphasized the importance of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion to forge a bright and flourishing future for the industry. Among the highlights of the day were two especially inspiring women who have risen to great heights in their careers: Carol J. Hamilton, L’Oreal USA, Group President Acquisitions Women, and Ilaria Resta, Firmenich, Global President Perfumery Division and Executive Board Director, Women Driving Industry Diversity & Innovation. These two titans discussed their career paths and current roles with Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy and Fragrance Foundation Senior Director Sharné Jackson, and shared their thoughts on the importance of mentorship and why the #FragranceForwardTFF movement is such a crucial step in opening up the world of fragrance to creative and passionate individuals from all backgrounds. Read on for some of the highlights.

Carol Hamilton, L’Oreal USA, Group President Acquisitions Women

Linda G. Levy:
Being a woman and rising up as you have is a major accomplishment. Why is diversity—including women, and LGBTQ+ and beyond—so important in the industry?

Carol J. Hamilton:
Diversity is so important. I am very happy that our industry is embracing diversity—I believe in a truly deeper, newer way than before, which was often storytelling but without really digging in and doing the hard work of searching for and righting and balancing the many big inequities of the past. You have to fix things before you can truly start treating everyone equally, because if you just start treating everybody equally and problems and inequities still exist, those are just going to persist as you try to equalize the workplace.

If you are curious about people, if you love people, if you respect people, and you create a diverse group of people on your team through your hiring practices and your retention practices, you will have a much happier and therefore more productive team. The different points of view when you have a diverse team, versus one that is not diverse, are remarkable. Every once in a while, I am thrown back to what I experienced a lot early in my career, which was walking into a room of white men in their 40s or 50s all wearing pretty much the same suit in pretty much the same shade of grey or navy and looking at them and thinking: how am I going to learn from these people? They all become one in your lens. Now when I walk into a room I see so much diversity.

When I met the Youth to the People [Hamilton spearheaded the brand’s acquisition by L’Oreal] team for the first time, I saw that they walk the talk: They embody diversity from the ground up. And it makes their business so much stronger, because they understand the voice of the consumer through their diverse employee population. I am very proud that they have done that, and that L’Oreal is learning even more deeply how to reflect that kind of best practice in our teams at large. It’s one of the most important questions we’re all facing as leaders in this industry.

LGL:
Why is it so important that the Fragrance Foundation be involved as a leader in this initiative with #FragranceForwardTFF?

CJH:
First of all, I love it. It’s so important for the fragrance industry, because the fragrance industry has some stereotypes to shed. We’re known as being very French, for a start, and I think of diversity as cultural diversity as well. So spreading the incredible competencies that it takes to create a beautiful long lasting fragrance is really exciting for this industry culturally, and I think that sometimes the stereotypes that our industry can convey through our advertising – man gets girl, for example – it’s exciting for all of us to think about how we can sell fragrance, how we can create this unbelievable emotion that fragrance evokes, in a different format, with different cultural icons, with things that are not that one standard that just keeps repeating the past and violates who human beings are today. We are so much more interesting than that, and I think that the fragrance industry can embody and reflect all of us, and with your work it’s really starting to happen.

Ilaria Resta, Firmenich, Global President Perfumery Division and Executive Board Director, Women Driving Industry Diversity & Innovation

Sharné Jackson:
What have been some of your most rewarding career moments, and what advice would you give a young person who wants to pursue a career in the fragrance industry?

Ilaria Resta:
When I look back at my career I don’t see achievements, I see the faces of the people I have worked with over the last 25 years. I can vividly remember the moments we shared. And for me the biggest reward is when I can promote people in their career and when I see people in my organization growing. I am also really rewarded by transformation in the business. I love when you are the architect of a change—seeing the change and the disruption that you plan happen successfully.

As for advice, I would say the same to anyone starting a career in any field: I believe in the power of the three L’s: love, learn, and legacy. You need to love what you do. Love doesn’t always come easy. You will have hurdles. But what’s important is that you see the bright side of your love and feed your passion. Second, if you keep on learning every day and move from an attitude of ‘I know everything, I know how it’s done’ to one of openness and learning every day and learning new ways of solving problems that will give you agility and the ability to adjust to new realities. And the third one is legacy. You need to be able, when you do a job, to look back and be proud of what you left behind. It could be on the business side, or it could be a fragrance you created. What’s important is that you have that as a lighthouse as you keep on working.

Linda G. Levy:
Why is Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion so necessary in the industry and why is #FragranceForwardTFF so important?

Ilaria Resta:
It is fundamental. Diversity is an obligation to represent society. And as society changes, diversity will change, and the meaning of diversity will change. I am a true believer that we need to be a mirror of society and represent in an equitable way our society. Today, it is not the case in this industry. And it’s surprising, because this is an industry whose products are consumed by women and loved by women and we have amazing women creators. But still, diversity is not there in the management teams, and there is no diversity across geography in terms of ethnicity, so I see many gaps in diversity. It is fundamental that as leaders in our roles in the industry we need to push for it and enforce it. Sometimes you need to force something from specific hiring practices and focus on diversity as criteria number one. I hope one day this will no longer be the case because we will reach a level of parity.

I am surprised that we lack diversity because it is very well proven by millions of studies that diversity improves business results – and not only that it improves creativity because through diversity and different points of view creativity increases and creativity is the lifeblood of this industry. So, I see no reason why we shouldn’t push for diversity. It’s an effort, because starting from the schools there isn’t even equal representation there, and I’m not talking only about sexual representation but also country of origin, sexual orientation, everything – so even at the base of our recruitment we cannot find diversity.
But what we cannot achieve we need to create. We need to give the tools to educate the people who are under-represented in our industry. We should as an industry talk about how we can create the conditions for all of the under-represented people to have access to our industry.

As we all know, discovering new scents and brands is a great, and supremely rewarding, delight. Fragrance Day 2022 brought this to life with segments that featured three influencers welcoming new members to The Fragrance Foundation, telling the stories of the brands and sharing their olfactive impressions while showcasing a selection of exciting, intriguing scents.

First up was Tiff Benson (@tiffbenson), a self-described New York perfumista, who began with Robert Piquet Parfums, a brand “known for their elegance and sophistication in fragrance” and “iconic beautiful black bottles.” She described the newest offering Bandit Supreme, a leathery, green, aromatic, mossy fragrance, as “retro with a modern twist,” “the perfect unisex scent for chypre lovers,” and “a must-try.”

Next, Benson presented LilaNur Parfums, India’s first luxury fragrance house, which celebrates the riches of Indian floriculture through the lens of French perfumers, saying, “I really admire how the brand embraces its own culture and its unique perspective on fragrance.” She highlighted Rajni Nocturne, which “is all about the scent of night-blooming tuberose” and the Discovery Set, which contains 7 perfumes, including her favorite, the “stunning” Agar Epice.

About Lumira, a luxury niche house from Australia, Benson said, “This company sticks by its ethos which is to be sustainably conscious– using only non-toxic, cruelty free, vegan ingredients. I love that.” She shared Radiant Oud—“If you like resinous, slightly sweet, alluring fragrances, Radiant Oud will leave you with a lasting impression”—and called out Tuscan Fig as a favorite from Lumira’s perfume oil collection.

Benson demonstrated how to use House of Bo’s ingenious fragrance primer, then gushed about the scents themselves, all created by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux—especially Espiritu: “I am obsessed with this wonderful woody fragrance with a touch of leather as well as floral notes of iris and rose. I receive so many compliments when I wear it.” Another new favorite? Libertine, by The Maker, a brand connected to the Maker Hotel in Hudson New York and created by the founders of Fresh. “I love this as a skin scent because the white musk really does pop off the skin in a natural, familiar way.”

Lastly, Benson introduced La Maison Valmont, a luxury fragrance collection made in Italy and inspired by stories of Venice. About Just Bloom, which has notes of lily-of-the-valley, ambergris and gardenia, she said, “This fragrance is warm and buttery; it’s a sensual floral that’s inspired by the contemporary woman. It’s polished and elegant like all of the fragrances from this brand.”

Emma Vernon, fragrance content creator on TikTok, a comedian, and the host of The Perfume Room fragrance podcast (@perfumeroompod) welcomed the next batch of new TFF members, starting with black-owned, female-owned Mair. The fragrance Peony Silk, she said, “is a fragrance for someone who is going to order a mimosa with a meal. Because it’s sophisticated and elegant, but it’s fun. This is that friend who gets ready before everyone else but looks the most put together.”

From Aspen Apothecary, a black-owned, female-owned, CBD infused, cruelty-free and vegan brand founded in 2020, Vernon shares Dusk, a new scent with notes of grapefruit, fig, lily, cedarwood, frankincense, patchouli. “It has an air of luxury in an effortless way,” she said, comparing it to those people who never seem to need reservations to get into the most in-demand restaurants. “The frankincense and patchouli really ground it in something deep and stunning.”

Vacation, she said, “does sunscreen better than sunscreen does.” She painted the picture: “You’re at an all-inclusive resort, basking in the sun, a little bit wet in your bathing suit, lying on a pool toy, lathering on coconut oil in one hand and drinking a pineapple daiquiri in another.” That she said, “is Vacation in a bottle.”

Sir Candle Man (@sircandleman), the Zimbabwe-born, Los Angeles-based candle lover who curates and reviews luxury candles for his followers online, presented new TFF members with candles, but also provided a series of tips on how best to enjoy and use candles in the home. “I personally love a brand that has a story, is backed by a master perfumer, and burns clean,” he said, demonstrating this point with Mizensir, by master perfumer Alberto Morillas. About Palo Santo, a candle with notes of Ceylon tea, cinnamon, and woods, he said, “It feels like a candle you would burn in a sacred space. A candle to give you respite from the crazy busy world.” He showed off his 5-wick Santal Vanille from Voluspa, a brand he said “creates fragrances that transport you to another world,” and gave a major tip: Before you light a candle, always trim the wick to a quarter inch. This keeps the flame from getting too big and creating smoke, and also prevents soot build-up.”

From Source Adage, which creates unique handmade candles made with essential oils, he sampled Great Plains, a green, meadowy scent that he said “smells exquisite. I imagine being in the countryside, on a horse, wearing leather. It’s outdoor luxury.” And then, another tip: Always burn a candle long enough to make sure the entire surface melts, which will ensure that you always get an even burn.

A beautiful candle vessel can become a permanent fixture in your living space, with a multitude of uses. Sir Candle Man, a big believer in using candle vessels as décor, reveals Sacred Ember, from Wickers Creek. “it’s the kind of candle you want people to see when they walk into your home.” And even better? “It smells like a warm hug with friends by a campfire.” Lastly, Sir Candle Man demonstrated how to extinguish a candle—and blowing one out is not best practice. Instead, try using an elegant candle snuffer or a wick dipper. Because don’t you want to treat your beautiful scented candles with utmost care? As Sir Candle Man said in closing: “Take care of your candles and they will take care of you.”

The Fragrance Foundation has developed a strong relationship with the Monell Chemical Senses Center, the country’s leading research facility for all things related to how our sense of smell functions and affects our behavior, moods, and overall health. For the second year in a row, Monell research scientist Dr. Pamela Dalton joined Linda G. Levy in conversation for Fragrance Day, and shared fascinating insight into what has been learned regarding how COVID-19 manifests loss of smell, and how Monell’s SCENTinel Program, which has applications far beyond the pandemic, can help everyone track changes in their olfactive acuity.

Linda G. Levy:
What can a person do to regain their sense of smell if they continue to experience it as part of Long Covid?

Pamela Dalton:
If it’s persistent, they should consult a physician, especially an ENT or someone who can ensure there is no swelling or congestion that would affect the lack of smell. Usually with Long Covid that is not the case. It has to do more with the cells that are responsible for letting our olfactory receptors send smell signals to our brains. For that reason there are not many treatments that we know of. One thing that helps many people is smell training. You select four or five different odors. They can be spices, essential oils, or personal care products. Things that you remember how they smell. And twice a day you take about five minutes in the morning and five in the evening, and you intentionally smell them and think about what the memory of that scent was like even if you’re not getting any scent at all. This seems to be able to restart the process of smelling for some people.

LGL:
Could smell loss happen over and over again if someone is reinfected?

PD:
Unfortunately, yes. I personally know people who had smell loss with the first variant, and then when Delta came around they were reinfected despite being vaccinated and boosted. They did lose their sense of smell, but they recovered both times. We don’t know how repeat insults to the system can affect smell, but we are learning all the time. It’s a horrible thing, but it is an important opportunity for us to remember to value how important our sense of smell is and also to learn as much as we can about how it works and what can disrupt it.

LGL:
What is Monell’s SCENTinel test?

PD:
We were intrigued that one of the first symptoms of Covid was sudden loss of smell and taste. In many cases it was an earlier signifier than a fever. Our idea was to develop a way that people could be quickly screened.

Our SCENTinel test is a unique smell test. It measures four different aspects of our ability to smell, and it is done in less than two minutes. Most smell tests are of the scratch and sniff variety, where you scratch a card and are asked to describe what you smell. We embody four different types of metrics in one test. The card has three patches, only one of which contains the odor. You lift the cover – you don’t have to scratch it – and you decide first of all which patch contains the odor. The second question is how strong the odor is. The third is what does it smell like, and you are given four images to choose from. And the final question is, how pleasant is it? Because some people who have smell loss from Covid, as they begin to recover, have a distortion that makes things that used to smell good smell very bad.
We were funded by the National Institutes of Health to develop this as a screening method for Covid but we see it as having broader implications for understanding the ability of people to smell more generally. We’re all about universal smell testing. In the same way that we get our eyes and ears checked, we should get our sense of smell tested throughout our lives. Right now, SCENTinel is a research tool but very soon we hope it will be available for sale.

LGL:
Why is it so important to know where you are with your sense of smell and how it changes over time?

PD:
Changes in our ability to smell can tell us so much about underlying health conditions. We know for example that many neurodegenerative diseases start with an inability to smell, years before there is a cognitive decline or, in the case of Parkinson’s, before there are motor symptoms. Seeing changes in your sense of smell over time may tell you that you need to be screened. Or it might tell you that you need to have a methane detector installed in your home, for example. There have been many stories over the course of the pandemic about one person in a home who hadn’t lost their sense of smell being able to alert others, who had lost their sense of smell, to a fire. These are potentially life-saving situations and show just how important it is to know if our sense of smell has diminished.

For readers wanting to receive a SCENTinel card, please email: rapidsmelltest@monell.org. And, for people wanting to continue learning about the science of smell, please visit monell.org/fragranceday.

While this spring continues to evolve globally with uncertainty and ever evolving change affected by war and the pandemic, we are dedicated to joining forces with our community to share the creativity, innovation and transformative powers of fragrance.

Our March issue of Accords provides highlights of the BIG day. You can still experience any segment via TFF’s website. March 21st, The Fragrance Day 2022 elevated this annual celebration to a new height and was viewed on the day by more than 3000 viewers. Replay was available the next day and thousands viewed on their own around the globe.

We received great reviews on the content, with Perfumers called out as the greatest stars who shared trends from fragrance house members or their creative process with brand creators. The new event feature of the Scent Discovery Kit, received by the first 1000 US residents to register, was a major success and the ability to experience the scents while learning its story was considered of great value to all.

Fragrance Day was also a natural progression of #FragranceForwardTFF, our #1 priority to galvanize the industry for Diversity, Equity and Inclusion. As March is Women’s History Month, we were fortunate to include discussions with two fabulous and successful women of the industry: Ilaria Resta of Firmenich and Carol Hamilton of L’Oréal, who inspired us with all they shared.

In addition, the annual TFF interview with the Monell Center’s Dr. Pamela Dalton on the sense of smell and the impact of Covid was highly informative. TFF will continue our connection with Monell and share updates throughout the year.

While TFF offered this free event to all, The Fragrance Day was celebrated by retailers and brands across the USA with both in store and online special events and promotions. This year we had more media coverage than ever before, generating coverage to a potential audience of over 200 million via TV, print and social media.

Enjoy this issue and make every day Fragrance Day!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Keta Burke-Williams, Founder

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

Aspen Apothecary exists to create non-toxic, earth friendly fragrances that amplify you as you are. We are inspired by a story our Jamaican mother told us that showed us the power of scent and memory. We are inspired by the knowledge that beautiful fragrances that make us feel good can be crafted without many traditional toxins, and we are driven by the belief that we are all deserving. We are enough as we are, and our fragrances exist to celebrate that!

Why did you decide to join TFF?

We were particularly inspired to join TFF after attending a webinar and learning more about the #fragranceforwardtff initiative. It’s no secret that the industry is not diverse, and we want to be change-drivers reshaping that narrative of who can be the faces behind the brands. We are excited to be members alongside some members and institutions with incredible industry knowledge and passion. We can’t wait to learn from other members, and share our unique perspective as newcomers to the industry to see how we can all take part in helping the world experience the power of scent. I truly believe scent has the power to make us feel and help us connect, and The Fragrance Foundation does important work to help us all consider what the future of fragrance can and should look like.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Black, female founded and owned, our very existence is driving change in fragrance. We want to change who has a hand in creating fragrances and who fragrances are created for. We are creating fragrances for those of us who have been left out of the traditional narrative, due to color, belief, self-expression, or identity.
We are so excited to bring our unique viewpoint because we believe fragrance has the power to connect us. It allows us to recognize the humanity in one another. For us, fragrance and the power of scent are the ultimate form of self-care, so we are excited to inspire others to experience the world of fragrance!

Mara Dumski, Chief Fragrance Experience Officer

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We simply want to bring the beauty of fragrance to more people, more often. That ambition led to innovation that blends fragrance, creativity, and technology together to create a home scenting experience unlike any other. We are curators and collaborators with a diverse and prestigious marketplace encompassing the perfect fragrance experience for all individuals.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

Quality changes everything. If our fragrances aren’t the best, created by the best in the industry, we have no place in millions of homes. We know that being part of The Fragrance Foundation gives us the opportunity to rub shoulders with industry leaders, and leads us to putting the best fragrances in the homes of our customers. It is a privilege to associate with organizations prioritizing shared values like the Fragrance Foundation’s mission of diversity, equity, and inclusion.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Our innovative marriage of fragrance and technology delivers the experience of scent to homes in a way people have never quite felt before. Pura and the Fragrance Foundation understand that fragrance can change your day, your mood, your life, and your attitude. Scent transports you to places where memories are emotional and opens your heart for music to play and colors to dance. Through Pura’s belief in the power of fragrance, we bring the voice of the future to The Fragrance Foundation.

Robert Dobay & Christopher Draghi, Founders

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We are just as passionate about the process of creating a fragrance as we are about sharing it with the world. Because we formulate the initial accords and facets for target compositions in-house before going to the team at the fragrance house to perfect, our brand’s distinct point of view is inherent in each of our final fragrances. It is important to us to have original scents that are uniquely “adage”.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

The Fragrance Foundation has the credibility and the resources to help us introduce our brand and to connect with the best in the industry. Our love of fragrance, the formulation process, and the excitement of bringing a finished product to the shelf is a shared joy in the community that we look forward to participating in.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Beyond expressing our passion for what we do, we hope that we contribute to the education of the fragrance consumer as well. Our fragrances are not only an expression of our own passion and creativity but also of the mastery of a team of expert perfumers and evaluators. We cherish that partnership, we learn from it ourselves, and try to inform our audience of what is involved to bring a fragrance to life so that they have a better appreciation for the scents they wear.

Brittany Bell, Director of Fragrance & Education

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We believe that though our eyes show us the world, it’s what we breathe in that brings us closer to it. At Voluspa, we handcraft scents filled with the essence of exotic locations, rare ingredients and unique experiences, and package them in vibrantly evocative designs that capture a true sense of place. Every fragrance enables a personal journey of discovery that brings the best of the world into your world and expands your horizons along the way.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

We are thrilled to join the TFF to connect with like-minded industry professionals and brands who are passionate about fragrance and fragrance culture. We are so excited to utilize our membership with TFF to further learn and immerse ourselves in the industry and to continue to grow and develop our products and brand.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

With the strike of a match, our complex, globally-sourced fragrances instantly construct a world around you that illuminates your unique interests and passions. Not only do our products ignite a sense of adventure and travel, the vessels themselves are equally captivating, transforming not only your mood but physical space as well, through the use of colors, intricate patterns, textures and more. Our fragrances inspire others to unlock a world of discovery through scent by their transportive qualities, erasing the space between memory and reverie to fill in the details of a daydream.

The Fragrance Foundation welcomed a new class of TFF Notables in a virtual ceremony on February 16th, warmly congratulating a group of eleven individuals who had been nominated by their colleagues for their outstanding career performance. The message shared by all was TFF’s commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion in all aspects of the fragrance industry. The importance of taking action on this front was reinforced by both Jerry Vittoria, Chairman, the Fragrance Foundation, and President, Fine Fragrance Global, Firmenich, and Linda G. Levy, President, The Fragrance Foundation, and each of the Notables was asked to express how they personally would pledge to deliver on the #FragranceForwardTFF mission.

As the Notables will join TFF as ambassadors in the Scents of Success career path series, a series of educational initiatives involving visits to colleges throughout the country, education played a key role in many of the speeches. Notable Amy Caljean, Senior Fragrances Development Manager at MANE, said, “It is time to set the stage for the new and long-awaited standard of our industry. As an ambassador of this movement, my focus is to educate and guide students of my alma mater how to pave their path into this industry. I have the special opportunity to promote exciting careers for those who may not know what awaits them in the inclusive and very human world of scent.” Notable Segolene Dewey, Fragrance Development Manager Firmenich, who established the company’s Changemaker Committee, expressed a devotion to mentoring programs and to “educating external talent about this magical world of fragrance.” Notable Vanessa Marques, Senior Project Coordinator, Symrise, pledged “to be a part of conversations with students from any and all backgrounds on how they too can build a career within this space,” and Notable Alison Zimmernmann, Global Marketing Director Calvin Klein & Marc Jacobs Fragrances, Coty, said, “It is a privilege to work in an industry that empowers people in their everyday lives. I look forward to dedicating my time with the Fragrance Foundation to bring awareness to the many career opportunities in the industry, actively reaching out to universities and new communities.”

Others voiced their commitment to opening up inclusion among consumers as well as in the workplace. Notable Shui Hwang, Senior Marketing Manager, Luxury US Coty promised to pass on her knowledge and opportunities “in particular to diverse audiences,” while Notable Melissa Lombardo, Marketing Manager IFF, stated, “It is our job to authentically represent our consumer’s voice and story.” Notable Alexa Kagan, Senior Brand Manager of Marc Jacobs Fragrances at Coty, said, “I’m so proud of our industry for championing Diversity Equity and Inclusion in the workplace. I am taking actionable steps with DEI starting with the hiring process, making sure we are bringing diversity to our teams every day but also following through and making sure that everyone is comfortable and has a voice at the table. I hope everyone takes this as a next step in their workplace too.” Notable Kristin Wiacek, Director Consumer Insights, Takasago, noted that “since fragrance creation requires a range of talents, from creative to analytical, it can be applicable to all people with varying skill sets. I look forward to sharing my personal experiences within consumer insights, as we represent the voice of the people and how we approach Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion is critical to our research, from data collection to storytelling.”

Some Notables expressed their DEI mission as being inseparable from the greater mission of fragrance itself—that is, to bring joy to everyone in the world, regardless of their background, gender, or beliefs. Florie Tanquerel, Cosmo International Fragrances Perfumer, talked about the way that fragrance can bring happiness and enact real inclusive change, citing her work creating a candle for Labyrinth Made Goods, which gives money to women who have experienced incarceration, and Notable Hassan Benabid, Director of Education Tom Ford Beauty, Kilian Paris, and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, Estée Lauder Companies, said “I want to inspire people that fragrance is all about joy. It’s not about being a man or a woman, everyone is equal.” Notable Gianni Magliaro, Sales Account Executive, Robertet vowed, “My goal is to continue to push our industry forward to create, innovate, and to be an inclusive place to work,” adding words that sum up the positive future outlook for everyone involved in The Notables ceremony as well as the fragrance world as a whole: “The fragrance industry is a place everyone can call home.”

Bernardo Möller, Founder and Creative Director

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?
Creating an experience that helps tell a story behind each scent. I believe perfumers are truly architects of memories.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumer(s)?
Rodrigo Flores-Roux and I are both Mexican therefore we were able to draw a lot of creativity from our upbringing as we were inspired by similar things growing up. For Espiritu, we used Mexican Maculis wood notes which is a kind of tree that surrounded my childhood home and for La Mar we used sea water notes which reminded us of our times with our family in Mexico’s coastline. I believe these notes were key in making these fragrances truly unique and transportive.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
We really focused on making a collection of scents that were truly transportive and universal. These scents not only represent memories but heritage as well. The sea water notes of La Mar, the incorporation of mexican maculis wood in Espiritu, and our modern interpretation of the generational Mexican Agua de Colonias with Agua de Santos truly made these scents story tellers that are made with the highest quality of natural, raw, and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Lev Glazman, Co-Founder

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?
I always dream about fragrances with specific accords and compositions in my head, which are inspired by a personal story, a moment or place. What I love about this process is taking the perfumer on my creative journey, which makes it an incredible collaboration to create the fragrance I imagine in my head. It’s inspiring to see how the perfumer interprets my dream and then brings it to life with their technical craft.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumer(s)?
I find the opportunity in the creative process is to not just interpret an ingredient singularly, but how it smells in its own environment.
For example, when I’m dreaming about a tuberose, I’m envisioning not just how the tuberose smells on its own, but also how it smells in nature. The smell of the earth that is warmed by the sun, the smell of the trees nearby, and the scent of the air around it. These are the integral components when developing a multi-dimensional accord of any composition.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
When we created The Maker collection we wanted to make sure every fragrance has their own unique character, but also an interconnectedness between them to tell a harmonious story. They are all sensual, complex, and easy to layer together.

Dakota Green, Executive Chair: Operations

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?

Carlos Huber and Rodrigo Flores-Roux are simply the best at what they do, and we had so much fun bringing our signature scent to life with them. Our brand is all about creating “leisure enhancing” sunscreen products, and through the development process we identified that people have a really deep connection with the smell of sunscreen. It’s not something you’d realize until digging into it, but with scent and memory being so intrinsically tied, nearly everyone has a cherished memory of sunscreen. One sniff brings you back to the best times of your life: you’re out of school, hanging out by the pool, and your only worry is when the sun is going to go down. Carlos and Rodrigo were able to bottle that emotional, nostalgic, and beloved poolside experience that so many people share.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumers?

Carlos and Rodrigo both have really rich, treasured memories of spending family vacations in Acapulco, and during the creative process they dove into those moments – reminiscing about how the salt air mingled with pool water and sunkissed skin. They called upon notes found in classic sunscreens to give you a jolt of nostalgia at the start, but layered these with beautifully nuanced notes that capture classic poolside memories such as plastic pool toys, pool water, and even swimsuit lycra to completely transport you to a sunsoaked, poolside daydream. “VACATION” by Vacation® is all about celebrating those joyful moments of leisure like they remembered from their holidays in Acapulco, and the scent welcomes you to relish in your own cherished summer memories.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?

With a focus on “leisure-enhancing” products, our fragrance does exactly that; whether you’re in a conference room in the middle of December or on a tropical beach, our signature scent will ensure that you find yourself in paradise. By incorporating an elevated take on nostalgia (in both the formula and the packaging), spritzing “VACATION” by Vacation® offers a welcome respite from the everyday. It’s the scent of sunscreen and summer, sprayable on demand.

Chad Lavigne, Founder

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance with a perfumer for your brand?
We were very lucky to be able to have all of the perfumers on-site for the initial brand brief. We were all gathered along the Hudson River touring the site that inspired the brand and I could see the excitement when we were along the beach, in the cave and experiencing the texture in the building. It made such a difference compared to most briefs that land in a presentation deck. After touring the site we spend a good deal of time reviewing the individual fragrance concepts and it all just “clicked”. It was so inspiring having the perfumers out of the traditional briefing format.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumers?
We did explore IFFs “Living” technology during one phase of the fragrance development. Essentially it can extract the headspace of any living ingredient or object and then be recreated. Being able to capture the essence of an aged whiskey barrel gives you the opportunity to layer in profiles that are signature to your brand. The possibilities were truly endless.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
Each one of the fragrances that live within the brand are creations based upon authentic experiences. For example, Whiskey Nights was born from a visit to a small tavern in the town of Tivoli. For me the space captured the essence of whiskey culture with its aged wood , warm lighting and unusual edit of whiskeys and bourbons. For Sacred Ember, I experienced my first Native American teepee. I was so entranced by the olfactive journey that I experienced but honestly apprehensive about how to best describe the experience with the perfumers. Today, it is by far my favorite fragrance within the brand so hats off to Pascal.
One could say that I am obsessed with fragrances that capture a narrative as opposed to a heavy lean on the ingredients. We are burning our Indie Summer candle as we speak because I am done with the snow and it takes me to bohemian summer days just thinking about the scent. Perhaps my days working with Ralph Lauren are still in my bloodstream…

This Accords issue takes us forward into 2022 with the Fragrance business continuing to remain strong. Consumers embrace fragrance in ways that were strengthened this last year as a personal invisible accessory, as well as an emotional escape to transport us or enhance self-care.

For this issue we asked some of our new TFF members to share insights about their brands so our community could get to know them personally. The brands range from newly launched to established brands who wanted to join our community officially with TFF membership. We hope all of our readers will join us in welcoming all who are based throughout the USA, with brand stories that are each unique and fascinating.

We are also highlighting TFF 2022 Notables, whose words will translate to action for diversity, equity and inclusion #FragranceForwardTFF.

Looking forward to celebrating The Fragrance Day March 21st with you all in store and at TFF’s virtual event!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Manfred Thierry Mugler, who sadly passed away on January 23rd, was a true visionary whose impact on fashion and fragrance cannot be overstated. Having launched his eponymous designer label in Paris in 1974, he ascended to superstar status in the 1980s with his dramatic-yet-graceful silhouettes: emphatically structured shoulders, wasp waists, and prominent peplums that reshaped the body as well as the fashion landscape. Everything he did, from his over-the-top runway spectacles to his lavish, unforgettable advertising campaigns was uncompromising and unlike anything that had come before—something that was also true of his revolutionary approach to fragrance, which he truly believed to be a wearable art. In Part 1 of Accords’ special edition dedicated to Mugler’s genius, two women who worked with him closely— Mugler & Azzaro Global President L’Oreal, Sandrine Groslier-Douhet, and Nicole Fischelis, the fashion expert and former Saks VP who introduced Mugler’s collections to the USA—share memories of their charismatic, legendary friend.

What was your experience working with Thierry regarding the launch of Angel?

Let me quote Manfred himself who said: “I always wanted to make a perfume that could have a common resonance for everyone, something close to tenderness, to childhood. I wanted to have such a sensual contact with this perfume that you almost want to eat the person you love.”

A blue fragrance? A star shaped bottle? A scent with the notes of food? How many times would he hear it was impossible! But Manfred Thierry Mugler would not know the word impossible!

He wanted to create something never seen before, never smelled before which would break the stereotypes and conventions. Indeed, no one could stop him in this dream. Angel really did revolutionize the fragrance industry and created the news fragrance genre: the gourmands.

Angel is the quintessence of the Mugler spirit. A hymn to pleasure, the sensual and carnal fragrance of a woman who is part-angel, part-demon. This fragrance has a power of metamorphosis, with the interplay of multiple facets it is the essence of femininity.

What is your most cherished personal memory of him?

I remember so many bright afternoons of creation with him, ideas that burst forth, his great enthusiasm to push the boundaries of our industry. I remember these difficulties in accepting legal or technical constraints. And this sentence he said to me one day when I asked him to sign a contract: “Do you believe Sandrine that I came to Earth for this kind of thing?”

He felt on a mission. He always wanted to surprise people, to amaze his fans, to create deep emotions and connections with people. A few days ago, again, he told me “Sandrine, I want to make people dream, put magic in their lives, give them a scene and provide strong emotions.” He was a magician.

How would you describe his creative vision, and what made him so unique?

Manfred Thierry Mugler was a genius of everything and had a profound impact on fashion and beauty worldwide. He was a man who inspired, refused compromise and consensus, the one for whom there were no limits.

He was a creator with infinite energy and a boundless sense of creativity who dreamed much harder and further than the others and who built a rich, multiple, coherent legacy. He was nourished with fantasies; he refused nothing, dreamed of himself handsome and strong like the titans of comics, post-war American comic strips.

Manfred Thierry Mugler wanted everything, ran everything and finally obtained everything, being always ahead of his time. He also pioneered the diversity and inclusiveness in fashion, exploring the human in all its dimensions and invented a life to excess.

Apart from his undoubted genius, extreme and uncontrollable, he was a very sensitive and generous man and this is how I will remember him.

What was so revelatory about Thierry’s approach to fragrance, and how did it relate to his fashion creations?

I think that if I should use just two words, this would be BOLDNESS and EXCESS!
Manfred did not know the limits, that is why in the perfumes you have so many overdoses of ingredients, they were at the times an olfactory shock. They were and still are very polarizing, delighting those who refuse half measures and compromise.

According to Mugler, perfume is the absolute art of metamorphosis. Like fashion, it means staging oneself. It enhances the personality, shapes the aura and offers freedom to be someone else, the pleasure of being known and recognized without unveiling yourself. The olfactory shock has a magical effect: it allows those who wear a Mugler fragrance to accept the various facets of their personality, to play on duality, and really enjoy it.

What do you believe his legacy will be in the fragrance world?

I think it will be Freedom. Freedom to create with no fear to break the codes.
Let me sum it up with another quotation of Manfred Thierry Mugler that concludes it perfectly: “I know why my perfumes are so attractive. It’s exactly the same thing that made me so popular as a fashion designer: a signature without concessions, very recognizable and outside conventional codes.”

How did you first bring Thierry Mugler to America?

At the time, I was running the Paris buying office for Saks Fifth Avenue. I was in charge of discovering new talent. That’s how I discovered many designers Saks launched in those years, including people like Christian Lacroix, Claude Montana, and Thierry Mugler. I got a phone call from Thierry’s representative in the early ’80s, and she came to my office with a suitcase. That’s how they did it at the time. She opened the suitcase on my desk, and she pulled out this jacket with this entirely new construction with these shoulders, and a peplum—typical of Mugler. I could not believe what I was seeing, because it was so modern, and so fresh, and so beautifully made. I fell in love with it. Saks bought the line exclusively, right away.

Saks continued to have a great business with his ready-to-wear collection. We used to attend every single show that he produced in Paris, which was so grand, and so spectacular, and so inspirational, and so new and different, with all the star models, the music and the decor. There’s a retrospective going on in Paris right now, at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, where you can see videos of the shows from those years. They were incredible.

What do you remember about the launch of Angel?

We launched Angel fragrance with an event at Saks. I’ll never forget it. Diana Ross came with Mugler to present it. It was an incredible evening and party.

I was completely in love and obsessed with Angel. I think the best way to explain what makes it so special is that it’s all the senses. First of all, the blue color. And then the way that star bottle feels in the hand. And the smell… The jasmine. Personally, I always love jasmine. And the fruity, sweet smell is like a flavor. But it’s not just the way that it touches your senses—it also elevates your imagination. There is definitely a magic to it. You see that star, and it takes you somewhere else.

What are your personal memories of Mugler himself?

Thierry was an amazing persona. He was modest, in his own way. He was always very extremely cheerful, and charming. And his vision was totally futuristic. And he was an artist. He was a designer, but he was an artist, and he was a show maker, and he was a photographer. He had so many different talents. He was a great individualist, but at the same time with a wonderful character.

Everything he did had so many dimensions.

Yes! The fragrance had unique dimension, and the clothes had a unique dimension. Not just enhancing your femininity, but at the same time it was sort of promoting you, giving you strength, because of the construction. They were very wonderful to wear. You wore them, they didn’t wear you.

What do you think his lasting legacy will be?

The magic of his work, you still see today. It came to me when I saw the retrospective in Paris. I got kind of emotional, because it brought me back to this whole time of my career. And it was very clear to me the influence that he still has on the new generation—you can see it in rising designers, the lines of his work.

And the fragrance is also going to remain. It’s unique. It’s individualistic. That’s why it’s still so successful. And the bottle… I mean, everyone keeps it. It’s like an art object. And it had such an impact. Not just the fragrance and the bottle, but even the advertising around it. You never saw that before—Jerry Hall on that mountain! I think the man was a genius.

The creation of Angel, Mugler’s pioneering debut fragrance, is the stuff of legend. When the now-iconic bottle hit perfume counters in 1992, it was a shock to the system—a scent so new, unusual, wonderful, and addictive that it could not be ignored. In bold contrast to the minimalist scents trending at the time, Angel was a patchouli-drenched, cotton-candy sweet juggernaut that single-handedly launched an entirely new olfactory category: gourmand. Even its presentation was a sensation, from the faceted star-shaped bottle—a collectable work of art in itself—to the arrestingly beautiful blue-hued juice. Conceived with then-president of Thierry Mugler Parfums Vera Strubi and perfumer Olivier Cresp (who was then with Quest International, now incorporated into Givaudan), Angel manifested Mugler’s vision to devise a scent that could stop traffic, but also become a classic. And become a classic it has—30 years later, it is still a best-seller. Here, perfume historian Michael Edwards, who so expertly chronicled Angel’s creation in his must-read book Perfume Legends II, and Cresp himself share what made Angel such a lightning bolt
in the world of fragrance.

What was the starting point of Angel for you?

The starting point was the brief I received while I was at Quest international. Mr. Mugler wanted a very powerful fragrance; he was looking for a kind of overwhelming fragrance. For his first fragrance ever, he wanted something outstanding.

I showed him an idea I had which was called “Patchou.” It was a rough patchouli blended with vanilla. Among all the fragrances he had in his hands, Patchou came across as his favorite. He fell immediately in love with this scent.

What were the challenges in creating something so extreme and different, but also wearable?

In order to make it more feminine, we tried to open up the fragrance by adding some floralcy, but it didn’t work. It just wasn’t right.

Then one day, he spent the whole afternoon telling me the story of his life. He was born in Strasbourg, in Alsace [in the eastern region of France], and he talked mostly about his grandmother, and about his childhood. He recalled waking up in the morning and going to the kitchen, tasting and smelling nice things such as milk blended with chocolate, and “pain au raisins” pastry (raisin bread). He also had memories about fairs in his hometown, and he told me how much he loved the color of blue sky and the stars. He also told me about visiting countries like Russia and his encounters with the people and the country – that was during the era of Perestroika. I discovered he was really gifted as a photographer to shoot the stars, the blue skies…

After that in-depth conversation, I went back to my lab; in order to get the blue color, I was using some watery elements, but again it wasn’t right. So I tried to grow the gourmand aspect. I moved my fragrance towards something edible, by using praline, chocolate, honey. It went on for two years to work on modifications. There were 620 trials in total.

After so many experiments, we found the right dosage/ balance between patchouli and vanilla. That’s it!

When did you realize that you had created a truly game-changing scent?

We knew we had a nugget in our hands because we had so many compliments from those wearing the fragrance. Suddenly we were on a trend, but we discovered only later that we were creating a new olfactive family. After the launch, maybe two years later, we realized that the fragrance was totally unique, a kind of UFO, and opening up a new family called “gourmand.” It was incredible. It was a new family no one had explored yet.

For me, Angel is also the first “niche” parfum, in the sense that there were few stores, but Thierry wanted to be number one among competition. He already knew the importance of word of mouth, and of street marketing.

What are your personal memories of working with this larger-than-life artist?

His behavior throughout the project was fantastic. I was in front of a genius, but he always remained humble, respecting everybody around him. He was a very simple man, but very open-minded. He was a visionary and always looking at the future, with so many projects in his mind.

What fragrance trends do you predict for 2022?

After the past two years of uncertainty and change, we are all finding solace in fragrances that support us emotionally. We are seeking comfort, balance, confidence and joy from the micro moments in life and we find gratitude in these spaces. Scent is fulfilling a huge role with emotional benefits coming from fine fragrance, candles, body washes and beyond. In 2022, new expressions of scent will help express our individuality, balance our wellbeing and strengthen our sense of self. We also expect gender neutral fragrances will continue to show strong performance as Gen Z are driving this trend into the future.

What do you think we will see happen in categories such as home and innovative scent delivery?

People today see their homes as their safe havens, their shelters from the storm. When at home, they are interested in immersive new experiences linking all of their senses with current and emerging technology. “Always on” scent delivery that can be customized via smart devices will continue to evolve and grow in popularity. New expressions of freshness, comfort and wellness will be sought after both at home and in the car. Candles are booming. We expect that the delightful ritual of lighting a candle and creating a mood at home will show no signs of slowing down in 2022 and beyond. People are also looking for a true connection with nature and are seeking more authentic, sustainable scents with biodegradable / biobased, fully transparent source storytelling.

What ingredients or notes do you think we will be smelling more of?

As we look ahead to 2022, we will be seeing more sustainable ingredients woven into the composition and storytelling of our fragrance creations. Forest bathing has been celebrated and elevated in almost every product category. As we move forward, we will see recognizable notes from nature woven in intriguing new ways to bring us a new clarity. Be on the look out for highlights such as gorgeous gardenia, warm cedar, vibrant vetiver, the dual roses of perfumery, awakening teas and earthy patchouli.

What fragrance trends do you predict for 2022?

At Firmenich, consumer expectations and desires are thoroughly monitored. In our two years of tracking consumer sentiment throughout the uncertainty of the Covid crisis, we have seen that motivations to buy perfume have shifted. Today, in addition to seduction and indulgence, consumers are looking for fragrances that make them feel safe, serene and good about themselves. Building upon this evolution, we also anticipate that fragrance products which are convenient, conscious and offer active benefits will continue to see growth in the future. As a perfumer, it is an exciting time to explore new olfactive territories that integrate and support these consumer shifts.

Delving further into the topic of conscious consumers, this is a trend which we have continued to watch strengthen over the past few years, particularly driven by Gen Z consumers who are highly engaged in the concept of clean and sustainably sourced fragrance ingredients. Another shift that I am excited to see and proud to support is the expanded presence of new, diverse fragrance brands. I have had the pleasure of collaborating on projects with several of these new brands, including Oldvine Fragrance, the first global luxury fragrance brand launched by a prominent Black female floral designer, for which I created a fragrance called Meadow Bloom. Another exciting collaboration has been with the brand Brown Girl Jane, for which I have developed two fragrances. Bahia is a beautiful white floral bouquet, and Casablanca is a very sultry, sexy scent with cardamom, vanilla orchid and amber. Each fragrance has mood-boosting benefits that contain a neuroscientifically proven technology shown to elicit feelings of relaxation, comfort, calm, serenity, light, and peacefulness.
Such innovative and disruptive solutions are truly driving the future of fragrance!

What do you think we will see happen in categories such as home and innovative scent delivery?

Our homes have become multi-purpose: home of course, but also office, gym, and much more! Thus consumers are ‘scent designing’ their spaces. We have seen a rise of home fragrances, allowing consumers to escape or cocoon as they wish. Scents really have a transformative power with the ability to bring more experiences and emotions at a moment when we need them most. This trend goes further as now we are seeing a very luxury approach, with more sophisticated offerings, to scent one’s home. Candles are a great example of this. Talking about sophistication, smart homes where technology is getting integrated in people’s lives will also impact the way we scent spaces. The future for products like diffusers looks bright!

What ingredients or notes do you think we will be smelling more of?

The trend for renewable and biodegradable ingredients is gaining tremendous momentum in our industry. One recent example is the introduction of DREAMWOOD® in our palette: readily biodegradable and made by biotechnology from renewable sugar sources, this ingredient allows us to build on the mythical sandalwood note to invent a different and modern perfumery.
Naturals also continue to play a critical role in fragrance creation. Our Naturals Together collection sources from some of the most precious, innovative, and sustainable natural ingredients, supplied by 22 producers across 25 countries, contributing to the livelihood of thousands of small farmers families.
Most recently, I have used several of them – Rose, Geranium, Copahu – in a very special creation. Inspired by Very Peri, Pantone’s 2022 Color of the Year, Firmenich has developed a “Pure Imagination” fragrance collection. The fragrance I have featured in this collection is Pericherry, a Floral Fruity scent built on a cherry cola accord and wrapped in roses and blushing blonde woods. It is 96% Biodegradable and made from 92% Green Chemistry!
Another trend is the fluidity of fragrances and fragrance notes that were historically associated with one gender or another. Mixing traditionally masculine and feminine scent notes together are becoming more and more common. One example of this is a creation I worked on for Boy Smells called Tantrum, an explosive green cocktail. These types of notes and products resonate especially with Gen-Z, as we know 50% of Gen Z based in the US believe traditional gender norms are outdated.

What fragrance trends do you predict for 2022?

As we move further into 2022, the clean and green movement for fragrance will only get stronger as consumers continue to prioritize safeguarding their health and the planet. We are seeing all elements of conscious fragrance merge the ideals of safety, transparency, and trust, driving a new narrative for natural scents that highlights more than just the scent profile but shows we are embracing green chemistry and taking measurable actions to reduce our environmental impact.

What do you think we will see happen in categories such as home and innovative scent delivery?

For home, we can expect new launches targeted towards the younger consumer that promote their ideals, such as eco-consciousness and tech-savvy products. For example, different ways of delivering fragrance will continue to emerge, from alcohol-free fragrances to biodegradable diffusers to minimalistic formulas and better for the planet. The “Fragrances with Purpose” concept will trickle down to the home category, and technology will continue to play an important role.

What ingredients or notes do you think we will be smelling more of?

As we continue to focus on the sustainability message, we can see notes trending that connote the fresh, clean, and green characteristics. For example, verdant, leafy green notes such as Cosmo’s Spinach Absolute help connect the consumer to that ‘farm to fragrance’ mentality while giving back to the community.

What fragrance trends do you predict for 2022?

We are all so starved for travel and escape that I predict we’ll continue to see the launch of destination fragrances that make you feel like you’re anywhere but here. I dream of someplace very far away, like Fiji. The olfactive fantasy might begin with MANE’s Coconut Jungle Essence™ for a fresh-grated, milky, textural effect that’s contemporary and market-right. Next, I’d add a proprietary molecule called Tropicalone™, which has a musky pineapple effect. . . then see where that takes me.

What do you think we will see happen in categories such as home and innovative scent delivery?

We are all facing burnout from stress and anxiety, trying to balance work and home while feeling committed and connected. Since working from home isn’t going away, we need to surround ourselves with optimistic fragrances: energizing, fun, happy, citrus, sparkling fragrances. Home fragrance can help you transition mindsets, even (or especially) if you’re not transitioning physical surroundings.

What ingredients or notes do you think we will be smelling more of?

In the men’s market we’re going to start seeing more gourmand fragrances that US men aren’t quite used to. These will give a new addiction when combined with traditional aromatic fougere elements. We’ll also continue to see the rise of genderless fragrances, going beyond our normal comfort zone with what we think “masculine” or “feminine” are supposed to mean.

This special January edition of Accords was redefined with the untimely passing of Manfred Thierry Mugler last week. While much has been shared in the news, we reached out to TFF close friends and colleagues who knew him well to share unique insights & perspectives. From each of their distinct vantage points, each shares personal stories with some common themes providing insights to Thierry Mugler. On behalf of myself and all at TFF, we thank Sandrine, Nicole, Olivier and Michael for their contributions at this very difficult time. We have lost a visionary but he left us gifts that are eternal.

In my experience as a competitor at other fragrance brands, as a retailer with huge Mugler Parfums success, as a consumer and now in my current TFF position, I know we have lost one of a kind. Now we know with certainty his fragrance legacies are rightfully named, and we will remember Thierry Mugler forever: Angel and Alien and Aura.

Accords had reached out for Perfumers’ takeaways from 2021 & predictions for the future. There are common themes but certainly subjective interpretations of the past and future we value as insightful and inspiring from Michelle, Clement, Constance and Gino.

As the first month of the 2022 year concludes, we honor those we lost and join together as a community going forward with gratitude and #FragranceForwardTFF.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

NEXT For AUTISM has been a powerful force in providing resources for autistic individuals and their families, as well as in driving forward awareness and acceptance, ever since the non-profit was founded in 2003. With every year, the organization—and its impact—just gets stronger. To mark TFF’s ongoing Give Back support of NEXT For AUTISM—and the partnership’s third annual AARMY Bootcamp Fundraiser, which took place on December 7^th—ACCORDS welcomes NEXT For AUTISM co-founder Laura Slatkin, as well supporters from TFF Board of Directors  Mark Knitowski, SVP of Product Innovation for Victoria Secret Beauty, and from  TFF Executive Committee & Board Ron Rolleston, General Manager of Global Fragrance at Revlon, to discuss the strides made in 2021 towards making communities and workplaces more inclusive for those with autism, and what it means for them.

Laura Slatkin:

What have been the main achievements of NEXT For AUTISM in 2021?

We feel like we have cracked the code in terms of how NEXT can make a meaningful impact on what the future can hold for autistic adults. One area in particular has been the need to support the workforce of direct support professionals (DSPs).  For too long, DSPs have been without adequate training, professional development, benefits, and livable wages. To this end, NEXT For AUTISM has partnered with The ARC Westchester to launch “NEXT for DSPs,”  a professional learning model focusing on components of choice, belonging, healthy living, and life-long learning. Amidst a national workforce crisis, NEXT For AUTISM is working every day to move the needle for DSPs and this critical profession that serves our community. 

 This year, we launched NEXT for GOING OUT, an easy-to-use resource providing visual support tools for adults with autism and the professionals supporting them. Picture supports for common activities like shopping and going to the library will be easily accessible for every adult. Using visual supports improves the ability of adults with autism to be independent and have more control of their world. 

We also launched NEXT GEN CONNECT, a peer mentorship program to improve acquisition and retention of employment for autistic adults. We are leveraging the passion and skills of professionals to act as mentors. Neurotypical people can fill the role as mentors, but ideally mentors will have autism too. After we pilot, evaluate and refine our program, we will disseminate it across the myriad of channels available for mentor relationships. These include alumni associations working with soon to be college graduates, young professionals committed to promoting diversity, equity and inclusion, autism networks interested in supporting the emerging workforce—we are open to all interested.

What are some of the biggest challenges for autistic individuals in the workplace?

Adults with autism continue to face barriers to meaningful employment. In actuality, those barriers can be quite simple. As an example, some individuals with autism simply don’t interview well—yet they are highly skilled to outperform on the job, so what should the “interviewing” process look like for an autistic individual? Other times the barriers are more complicated. With a heightened focus on diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) efforts, and thanks to a grant from the Bhatia Family Foundation awarded to NEXT For AUTISM, we are creating a DEI toolkit for companies that are committed to reporting their disability statistics. NEXT for DEI encourages every business to measure their success in employing professionals with disabilities and promoting this data publicly, as they do with gender and race/ethnicity in their diversity reports.

Your son is at this age, so you are seeing many of these issues and positive experiences up close. How have NEXT resources benefited him?

David now has a sense of belonging and a sense of community. After one year of being in the NEXT program—everyone knows David in the community. The pizza parlor chefs know David likes his pizza not too hot, at the checkout counter in the local grocery store they all know it’s going to take David a little longer to put his groceries on the conveyor belt, and because he is now a known member of the community–they are very patient. At the local store where David gets his candy, he has a friend, Gina, who gives him a warm welcome when he walks in the door. A fulfilling and meaningful social life is key for any adult. Integrating into the community and having a sense of belonging is very important.

How has the pandemic affected those with autism in particular?

It’s been a challenging time. We have all experienced incalculable loss — of life, of opportunity, and of our daily patterns of living. For the community NEXT For AUTISM proudly serves, the stakes have changed. The isolation brought on by COVID-19 restrictions has only magnified the many disparities that autistic adults face at work, at home, and in their communities. We are keenly aware of how disconnected from their larger communities individuals with autism and their families often feel, even in the best of circumstances.

This was the third TFF/NEXT For AUTISM/AARMY event.

How does each year’s event build on this partnership ?

Since 2019, the GIVE BACK partnership has helped raise over $1.5M towards NEXT For AUTISM’s mission and initiatives. We are beyond grateful for The Fragrance Foundation’s commitment and generosity.  The TFF community has been a champion of opportunities and choices for autistic adults for many years, leading the way for acceptance and inclusion. On a personal note, the opportunity for me to bring my professional, personal and philanthropic worlds together has been very special on so many levels! 

Mark Knitowski:

What do you believe is the most important impact that NEXT For AUTISM has had for autistic individuals and their families?

The opportunity to provide confidence to the individuals about their value to themselves and others.  The pride they can take when they find themselves growing, evolving in a place and environment that they can be a part of.  

What has been your personal experience having a young adult son with autism, and how have NEXT programs and awareness-building been helpful?

The hope that as Kyle grows and evolves he can find what he loves to do and excel at it.  These young adults have so much to offer, they are incredibly smart and detailed. It takes patience to understand each individual for who they are and what they need, and NEXT For AUTISM programs do that. 

What is your advice to those who have recently been diagnosed, or have a family member who has been diagnosed?

Reach out. Don’t be worried about what people may think or say, as there will be people who you didn’t even know have been in a similar position, and have gone through it and have great insights. That is what happened with us. When friends and friends of friends found out Kyle was autistic, we were overwhelmed by the support and compassion. For that willingness to help, we are forever grateful. That help which started when Kyle was just about 2 helped him to progress, whereas if we didn’t have that support he may not have gotten as far as.  Get as educated as you can, believe in your missions to find out as much as you can through anyone you know who has been involved with autism.  NEXT For AUTISM is an amazing organization and resource that can guide anyone.

You have been a huge supporter of the TFF/ NEXT For AUTISM AARMY fundraisers, which are such joyful events. How do feel that these events energize the organization and the overall movement? 

The support and compassion for NEXT For AUTISM with the Fragrance Foundation’s commitment to continue to create visibility in a fun and engaging way (a little tiring, I am not in the shape I need to be in) for the autistic community has been humbling. The TFF/NEXT For AUTISM AARMY event especially embodies the spirit of so many in the autistic community, who are always pushing forward, and never giving up.   

Ron Rolleston:

What do you believe is the most important impact that NEXT For AUTISM has had for autistic individuals and their families?

The most challenging thing about autism is what happens to autistic individuals when they become adults. An autistic individual gets educational support and services through childhood until young adulthood but they all eventually age out of those programs. It is difficult for many of them to find meaningful work and integrate into the world. I think the fact this organization helps them in the next stage of their lives is very valuable. The idea that every autistic person can lead a meaningful and productive life means everything to me. It is the goal of every parent with an autistic child.

What is your advice to those who have recently been diagnosed, or have a family member who has been diagnosed?

The advice question is challenging . Every autistic person is unique. They are on a spectrum. It really depends on the individual. When children are first diagnosed, it is essential that they get early intervention in areas such as speech and language. The early intervention is key and then you see how each autistic individual responds to define their therapies.

You have been a huge supporter of the TFF/ NEXT For AUTISM AARMY fundraisers, which are such joyful events. How do feel that these events energize the organization and the overall movement? 

I think these events serve to raise money for individuals who are very much in need . As importantly, if people take the time to learn about autism, I think it benefits society as a whole, as well as the autistic community. I believe that as more people become aware of autism and its challenges, the more society will welcome autistic people into the mainstream and allow them to lead productive lives.

On December 9^th, TFF held its annual signature event, The Creatives, featuring a conversation between diptyque CEO Fabienne Mauny and beauty editor and media consultant Katie Becker. The pair sat down together at diptyque’s new boutique at 31 Prince Street in New York to talk about the history of the brand, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2021, fragrance, décor, and home scent innovation. Below, Accords presents some of the highlights.

Katie Becker:

diptyque has a very deep artistic history. What was the original vision?

Fabienne Mauny:

Our founders were three artists who created diptyque as a creative project. One was English painter, one was a French theater decorator, and one was an interior architect. They created diptyque because they wanted to do whatever they felt was true and beautiful. Much of their lives, travels, and taste was put into creating products for the original store at 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, which opened in 1961. They started with fabrics, and then they added decorative objects, and they created the first scented candles in 1963 and the first unisex perfume in 1968. That is when they really started their adventure in the fragrance world.

KB: In celebration of diptyque’s 60^th anniversary, the brand has unveiled different initiatives throughout the year. How do you nod to the heritage of the brand while still moving the conversation forward?

FM: We decided to have several moments throughout the year that paid tribute to the heritage of the brand while sharing the very special diptyque spirit with our fans. We started with a Graphic Collection, which celebrated our famous black and white logo. Next, we launched Orpheon eau de Parfum in March, which was inspired by a jazz club that once existed in the basement of the original diptyque store and which was quite famous in its time. In September, we held a contemporary art exhibition in Paris—our very first one—and opened pop-up stores in different capitals around the world. For that special event, we created five different products and revealed very special artist collaborations.

KB: What makes a perfumer a diptyque perfumer? How do you identify the noses you want to collaborate with?

FM: Our founders worked with several perfumers from the beginning. They wanted to find people who had the right connection with them and who understood their world and could translate their stories, visions, and inspirations into perfume. We continued working like this, and for our anniversary Le Grand Tour collection we worked with five perfumers. Almost all of them have been working with us for a long time. It’s a creative dialogue that we continue year after year. Olivia Giacometti worked with the founders, actually—she created Feu de Bois, for example, an iconic scent for us. Fabrice Pellegrin also worked with the founders when he was a very young perfumer. He created in 2005 Du Son, which is a diptyque favorite. We also have Cecile Matton and Alexandra Carlin, the newest perfumer in the family, creating amazing fragrances for us.

KB: Do you leave a lot of room for perfumers to come to you with challenges and ideas?

FM: We always like surprises at diptyque. Sometimes they will come with one idea, maybe they are working with a specific ingredient, or they have an idea for a specific place they would like to translate into perfume. But we also may contact them when we have a project for which we think they would be ideal. It depends. We love the olfactive accident. And all five of the perfumers who worked on Le Grand Tour have the capacity to give a little twist with an unexpected ingredient or idea that will make the product even more different and even more diptyque.

KB: diptyque is a forum for a lot of different types of artists, making fragrance into a multi-sensorial experience. What makes someone the perfect collaborator?

FM: Le Grand Tour was a fantastic experience for us. We wanted to pay tribute to the love of travel that the founders had – different cities, cultures, cities. We decided to do this project choosing 5 well known artists—from a photographer to a fashion designer to a sculptor—to celebrate the anniversary with us. We gave them carte blanche to create whatever they wanted with only one condition – it had to be scented. Each of them created something incredibly special, and it was emotional to see how these people we contacted engaged with the project and made this cultural experience really unique.

KB: How do you foster an atmosphere for your team where all ideas are welcome and people are encouraged to think outside the box?

FM: My job is to make sure that all of the talents that we have inside the house and the artists and creatives that we collaborate with can express themselves in the best possible way. I think it’s the purpose of the brand to make sure that creativity and innovation is at the heart of every product. I think that what makes diptyque different is that we have the freedom to experiment. Our whole goal is to give people some time out of time, some time for themselves, some time to let their imaginations wander.

KB: diptyque has become a home décor status symbol. How does the brand enjoy listening to the customer and how does the brand respond?

FM: It’s always extremely interesting to listen to the customers and we have the chance to have our customers from around the world coming into our stores and giving comments on social media and on our site. Our goal is to create beautiful objects that last. And if our customers use these objects in their lives for multiple purposes that is even better. We knew that our candle vessels were being used for flowers or makeup brushes or pencils, and we thought that was a wonderful idea. In this year’s holiday collection we have offered some accessories that come with the candle, for example the Nomad, which is a handle, so that they can use the jars after they are done in a new way.

KB: Can you give us a hint of what’s to come for the brand?

FM: The goal is to continue being as creative as possible, taking into account the fact that the brand is a contemporary brand and the goal is to make it a beautiful thing to enjoy for at least another 60 years to come. We have 90 stores around the world so to have this opportunity to engage customers and tell our story is an incredible thing. We will continue to create fragrances and home accessories, and continue our décor. In fact, we are just about to launch a new category in home décor: wall paper. These are beautiful prints inspired by our archives. It’s going to be fun. We are so excited about it, and about the brand’s future. We have so many ideas.

Stacey Bresnahan, Laubahn Perfumes 

As an Indie brand, how does your holiday 2021 selling season differ from any other time of the year?

It’s the busiest time of the year for us!

What excites you the most about going into the New Year? Are there any product launches or partnerships that you can share?

We are very excited about the launch of our New Fine Fragrances in luxurious glycerin soap. 

What would you want TFF’s Accords readers to know about you?

All of our fragrances are inspired by a world of dreams. Where a passion for fragrant adventures combines with the breathtaking beauty of nature. Two of our fragrances, Hinterland and Naughty Garden, were created by the amazing Ralf Schwieger. 

Rodrigo Garcia, AMEN Candles

As an Indie brand, how does your holiday 2021 selling season differ from any other time of the year?

AMEN candles in a mushroom carbon negative packaging are a great gift because it is not just a product, you are gifting the belief that if we all make conscious decisions we can live in a world without plastics. Beyond being a great gift of craftsmanship  hand made in France, and Grasse perfumery, the values behind it make it a great holiday gift for this season.

What excites you the most about going into the New Year? Are there any product launches or partnerships that you can share?

New Beginnings are an opportunity to leave things behind and start a new chapter. It’s a great opportunity that we actually have every day as every day is a new life.

We just launched our new collection of light sculptures with Sculptor Katharina Kaminski at Design Miami, which sold out in Design Miami and have a few last pieces available. We share awareness of intersex community, and celebrate the infinite human experience and beauty beyond gender.

How would you describe the impact that The Fragrance Foundation’s support has had on you and your brand?

As a South American outsider of the fragrance world, the support of the Foundation makes you feel that everything is possible no matter where you come from and whatever your background. Linda is an incredible connector of alike minds and meant to be best friends, and the support and connections along the way are key when you are an indie brand just walking the first steps.

What would you want TFF’s Accords readers to know about you?

We believe in a world without plastics and our mushroom carbon negative packaging is our manifesto. We have a list of biodegradable suppliers for you to look at and consider them for your next designs and if we all only use biodegradable alternatives then we will live in a world without plastics. Here is the list, we call this project Mushroom Conversations: https://amencandles.fr/pages/mushroom-conversations-purpose 

Carlos Huber, Arquiste 

As an Indie brand, how does your holiday 2021 selling season differ from any other time of the year?

We’ve just launched our newest scent PEAU – a very abstract, emotional scent evoking the scent of skin and the memory of a loved one. It’s all about intimacy and closeness, very relevant to the season, so my selling season is dedicated to engaging with our base on a very personal level…Intimacy is the key word: One on one, responding to social media messages, providing dedicated customer service, engaging and motivating discussions around the memory of certain scents. After years of social distancing, what does smelling the nape of the neck of a loved one mean to you?

What excites you the most about going into the New Year? Are there any product launches or partnerships that you can share?

I’m very excited for 2022 -there’s so much development work! We have fantastic new work for Vacation Inc that I’m excited to unveil. The inspiration behind the scents we’ve created is so cheeky and fun. I’m also really excited to start work on a fragrance for Sabah, the Turkish-made, NYC based footwear brand, great friends, and a brand I love. There’s a new fragrance I’m developing for ARQUISTE that I’m really inspired by: with an amazing signature. Most of all, I’m excited to keep doing what I love the most: traveling the world, researching history and finding ways to connect with it through our sense of smell. 

How would you describe the impact that The Fragrance Foundation’s support has had on you and your brand?

It’s like having a loud speaker to the industry – it propels our voice so we can be heard. It establishes and cements our part as the tip of the spear in an exciting industry. 

What would you want TFF’s Accords readers to know about you?

Above all, I want them to seek out and explore ARQUISTE Parfumeur – try our scents, our candles, our collaborations. You’ll understand what I mean by storytelling through scents, fragrance architecture and olfactive experiences.

Belinda Smith, St. Rose 

As an Indie brand, how does your holiday 2021 selling season differ from any other time of the year?

This year we’ve seen a tremendous boom in sales that started well in advance of November. As a young brand launching just four months before the pandemic we haven’t had ‘typical’ selling years to benchmark against and both our DTC and wholesale businesses have surpassed our forecasts. Our Discovery Set for gifting has been a top sku and we are already working to prepare gift sets for next year.

What excites you the most about going into the New Year? Are there any product launches or partnerships that you can share?

I’ll be ringing in the New Year back home in Australia, at long last, so I am really looking forward to 2022! At ST. ROSE we have some very exciting launches on the horizon. First up, we are thrilled to be launching into home fragrance with our first candle available in Q2. I am also thrilled that ST. ROSE is launching at some incredible global doorways especially in the European market where we’ve had customers very anxious for us to arrive.   

How would you describe the impact that The Fragrance Foundation’s support has had on you and your brand?

The Fragrance Foundation’s support has truly been invaluable. This community is made up of such inspiring individuals that I feel very lucky to have become introduced to and now count as both friends and mentors. As an indie brand to have both industry veterans and fellow brand founders to lean on for help and guidance in navigating unchartered waters is priceless. Linda and her team are such incredible brand champions.

What would you want TFF’s Accords readers to know about you?

How thankful I am. Looking back on another amazing year and everything we’ve been able to accomplish as a young brand is truly thanks to our incredible community. ST. ROSE is very mission driven and this year in addition to supporting our conservation partners through 1% for the Planet we also have started working with the Aboriginal led non-for-profit connected to our Western Australian sandalwood supplier with a special focus on youth art programs. I have always considered myself to be an environmentalist and after becoming a new mum this year I have become even more impassioned to do whatever we can to conserve and protect the wonders of the natural world for our future generations.

Holly Tupper, Cultus Artem

As an Indie brand, how does your holiday 2021 selling season differ from any other time of the year?

Our holiday 2021 season has been one of our busiest seasons. We’ve experienced tremendous growth with our DTC business. We must be agile and adapt quickly to overcome these challenging times as an indie brand. Cultus Artem is a vertically integrated company and does everything in-house, controlling every aspect of our business, from storing, packing, filling, and shipping all Cultus Artem products from our laboratory & atelier in San Antonio, TX, to marketing and customer service. 

We also use the season as an opportunity to engage with our clients on a more personal level – this can be by surprise gifting and having more one-on-one conversations with our more ardent supporters. We are one of the few luxury brands that do not participate in seasonal sale periods like Black Friday or Cyber Monday. We address the season with a more considered perspective to commerce.

What excites you the most about going into the New Year? Are there any product launches or partnerships that you can share?

I am most excited about the New Year in continuing and growing the partnerships that we have established in 2021. We’ve had much success in 2021 with new partnerships with retailers like Neiman Marcus and Beauty Habit in California, where we recently launched our skincare collection. We were also selected as an anchor brand for Bergdorf Goodman’s, The BG Beauty Edit.

There are a lot of new exciting plans for Cultus Artem in the New Year as well! We were asked to participate in a curation by Surface Magazine for their unique retail/gallery experience in the Miami Design District called Surface Area. I am thrilled that my Vetiveria fragrance and skincare collection are available to experience in a wonderfully curated space. We are also working with stylist Melissa Ventosa Martin’s latest venture, Old Stone Trade. Old Stone Trade is an expertly curated online marketplace offering handmade-to-order luxury womenswear. Cultus Artem’s brand ethos is in so much alignment with her mission of considered commerce, slow approach to luxury, and preserving essential heritage crafts. 

How would you describe the impact that The Fragrance Foundation’s support has had on you and your brand?

The Fragrance Foundation’s support has had a tremendous impact on my brand. By being a member of TFF, I’ve been able to garner new relationship opportunities that have had a genuine impact on my business. The support system TFF also provides a chance to receive invaluable industry feedback and a sense of community by the Indie Advisory Group and its members.

What would you want TFF’s Accords readers to know about you?

Cultus Artem is the vessel for my creative output and is very personal. As a founder, I feel it’s essential to ensure that my input is included in every touchpoint that a client may experience for our products. I consider Cultus Artem an outlier, and unlike most, I have the privilege of creating as I want. I am excited about the continuing development of our skincare collection and look forward to collaborating with our current retailers, making more relationships, and growing the brand. In the coming year, we will add a few more fragrances to our fragrance line, along with inspiring artist collaboration projects that will be revealed in 2022.

This December issue features major highlights of the month including two TFF signature events and great TFF Indie members available to share their holiday season perspectives. 

Our 3rd annual Bootcamp event with NEXT For AUTISM and AARMY was a success in many ways. We joined together as a community working out and supporting the cause to raise $500,000 and major awareness. This year we are especially proud of the new programs Laura Slatkin and NEXT For AUTISM created for young adults on the spectrum for enhanced everyday life skills and professional development. Our fundraiser continues through December 31st, so please join us and donate here.

Our TFF Creatives event with diptyque was terrific with so much shared about this fabulous brand never revealed before in the USA. Fabienne Mauny explained so many treasures of diptyque on the topics raised by Katie Becker’s insights. It was pure creative inspiration! In Accords we share highlights, and you can watch the full discussion on our website here.

In this last issue of the year, we featured a few special TFF Indie brand creators who took time out for us during these hectic times, to share their viewpoints. Bravo Stacey, Belinda, Holly, Rodrigo and Carlos for these outstanding fragrance brands!

On behalf of The Fragrance Foundation team, we extend our heartfelt gratitude to our Board of Directors, members and community for their support and enthusiasm all year round. The fragrance gift holiday season is soaring as we countdown to Christmas; and afterwards we all will hopefully take time off to relax and rejuvenate! TFF looks forward to reconnecting in the New Year 2022. 

Wishing you all great health, happiness and fabulous fragrance forever!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

This year’s Circle of Champions event was the first in the Fragrance Foundation’s history to honor educators. Reflecting TFF’s firm belief that access to education is key to building a flourishing and diverse fragrance industry fueled with fresh ideas, the two honorees are top-of-class veteran educators with unsurpassed knowledge about what makes the scent business tick. Virginia Bonofiglio, assistant professor and head of FIT’s undergraduate program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing (CFM), and Stephan Kanlian, professor and head of the college’s graduate program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management (CFMM), share their insights on the importance of FIT, its relationship with TFF, and education for all. 

Virginia Bonofiglio:

This was the first time that educators have been honored with the Circle of Champions awards.  What did that mean to you?

I have always believed that education is the path to success. 

The recognition by the Fragrance Foundation of the importance of education for the fragrance industry is a confirmation of the importance of educating the next generation, which is FIT’s mantra. I was deeply honored by this award and thrilled that the Fragrance Foundation and its membership values the work we are doing in preparing students for the role they will play in this fabulous industry. I applaud the Foundation’s forward thinking in making education an important part of their ongoing mission to support fragrance as a business, an art form and a societal touchpoint.

What is unique about the programs at FIT?

 FIT’s Fragrance and Cosmetics programs, CFM and CFMM, are built around academic excellence and industry know-how. There are very few college programs that follow the industry as closely as these two programs do. In order to provide the fragrance industry with innovators and game changers we need to offer students a profound understanding of the industry’s current toolkit while providing a pathway to where the industry should be going in the future. 

What has always been most important for you to teach your students about the fragrance industry?

We live in an opti-centric society. Our main way of relating to the world and things around us is by using our sense of sight. This has become even more prevalent during the time of Covid, where our reliance on screens has escalated and our world has become two dimensional. I always start every fragrance class with a review of all of the sensory experiences we need to have in order to enrich our lives. My focus is to drill down to the importance of the sense of smell and the role of the fragrance industry. I confirm for my students that in addition to covering malodors and providing pleasure, fragrances can define a decade and delineate a culture.  

What unifies the undergraduates coming into the program?

The great unifier for our students is their passion for this industry. While there are other universities that offer similar programs FIT has three distinct advantages: cost, location and a fragrance laboratory on the campus. 

Our students are a unique brand of college student that has made a choice about their field of study at the beginning of their college career. Many of them have taken high school classes on the campus and this solidifies their desire to come to FIT for the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing program. We find that students who do not get in the first time they apply, will return and apply the following year.

What is so special to you about your relationship with The Fragrance Foundation?

The Fragrance Foundation has been an integral part of the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing program at FIT since its inception.  Annette Green, President Emeritus of the Fragrance Foundation, was one of the original founders of the CFM program.  It was her vision to create a course of study at FIT that would prepare the next generation of industry leaders. The Fragrance Foundation supported the creation of a Fragrance Studio on the campus of FIT to ensure that the curriculum included a strong commitment to fragrance knowledge.

Linda Levy, current President of the Fragrance Foundation, and her team continue to support the CFM program at FIT, and CFM’s relationship to the Fragrance Foundation remains strong. We share common goals and ideas about the fragrance business. The Fragrance Foundation’s dedication to DEI mirrors FIT’s devotion to the same objective. The Fragrance Foundation FIT Diversity Scholarship demonstrates this mutual commitment. We are both ardent about education and its importance for moving the industry forward.  

We will continue to partner with the Fragrance Foundation to build a like minded community of fragrance enthusiasts including members of industry, students of fragrance, and ardent supporters of the Fragrance Foundation and its mission.

Stephan Kanlian: 

What did being a Circle of Champions honoree mean to you?

It meant everything to me. FIT educators have been very honored over the years to be the “first educator” to represent the beauty industry in many roles, all owing to the investment the industry has chosen to make in not only educating talent for industry, but “educating the educators.”

What attributes do you think are most important for a graduate to succeed in fragrance?  

First: the dual competency of being both analytic and creative, is a foundational benchmark, given the sophistication of consumer science and competitive nature of the business. Second: a global perspective and appreciation of global culture, both for consumer understanding and inspiration. Success in fragrance depends on having the mind of an entrepreneur and the heart of a poet! 

Why and how is a global perspective especially important for your students? 

 The intimacy of fragrance and all beauty products, and their representation of individual expression requires a deep knowledge and nuanced understanding of global culture.  As a former business diplomat, that seemed elemental to me when I became an educator. We normally take the students to six countries in two global regions on their academic field studies.

What do you think are the greatest achievements of the CFMM program? 

 Two things stand out as the lasting legacy of the CFMM Program: the leadership of its graduates as change agents in the re-shaping of industry, and the prescience of the student research in accurately predicting coming shifts in the marketplace and recommending ways to future proof businesses.

What have been the biggest changes you’ve seen in the 22 years of heading the program? 

Change is a constant in the consumer space – as fundamental as change in individuals themselves. I like to think of these 22 years as a “generation” and the changes have been generational, indeed: the development of lifestyle marketing, the growth in the sophistication of behavioral and consumer science, the evolution of retail, the blurring of lines of distinction in distribution, the importance of people & planet in measuring profit, the importance of supply chain to innovation, globalization, and the advent of technology have been the hallmarks of this particular epoch of change. 

What do you find most gratifying about teaching? 

I deeply admire the intellect of the fragrance industry, and to be entrusted with educating it’s best and brightest is a great honor. But the gratification of teaching itself, and the joy of watching students discover their leadership voice, is an exceptional privilege. There is no more important role in society to ensure its future than that of “teacher”, whether it is in families, schools, the workplace or volunteer organizations.

 What is so special to you about your relationship with The Fragrance Foundation?  

Without the Fragrance Foundation, these programs at FIT would not exist. It was the support and “push” of industry and President Emeritus Annette Green that established the Bachelor’s program, and her successors have all been believers in education who have partnered with FIT in creating a unique collaboration and the only working fragrance laboratory on a US college campus.  Before Linda Levy led the Foundation, for example, she was an Advisory Board member to the Master’s Program in the early 2000’s while at P&G. That combination of industry insight and academic expertise is the future of education, in my opinion, and what makes the FIT/Fragrance Foundation partnership so visionary and so special in the world of academia. In my heart I am an entrepreneur, and the limitless possibilities of this industry/academic collaboration, and its ability to push the boundaries of normal academic pedagogy, are what feed me as an educator.

TFF’s Circle of Champions event on November 4th marked a major unveiling: The Fragrance Foundation FIT Diversity Scholarship, a $100,000 academic award that will benefit FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing programs on the undergraduate and graduate levels. The gift demonstrates TFF’s commitment to diversity and to education, and will open the doors to students who may otherwise have been unable to pursue studies at FIT. Here, FIT President Dr. Joyce F. Brown and Dr. Brooke Carlson, School of Graduate Studies Interim Dean, discuss how this scholarship will benefit both FIT and the fragrance industry as a whole. 

Dr. Joyce F. Brown

What does the scholarship mean for FIT?

We are honored that The Fragrance Foundation chose to establish this exceptional and very timely scholarship fund at FIT. FIT will benefit greatly from the perspective that diverse and underserved students will bring to our fragrance labs and classrooms–our students, in turn, will benefit from exposure to a superior faculty, a forward-focused curriculum and industry best practices. This scholarship will prepare them for executive ranks and leadership roles–and transform their lives. 

What does it mean for the future of the fragrance industry?

I think this scholarship fund is a wonderful measure of the commitment to achieving diverse representation in the fragrance industry on the part of the Fragrance Foundation. I hope it will help not just to open company doors to more diverse individuals, but also–importantly–to provide a meaningful career path so that they advance as far as their talent and hard work will take them.

What are the broader goals you share for DEI within education and within the fragrance industry?

Clearly, we are aligned in making diverse representation a priority both in educational settings and in the fragrance industry. FIT is taking actionable steps to increase the number of diverse youth seeking careers in the creative industries, and with our industry partners, helping to transform the culture within those industries so that current and future employees who are part of these communities can succeed.

What do you think will be the biggest hurdles?

We recognize that real change takes time–it often happens in increments and requires constant collaboration and recommitment to maintain the momentum. But I believe we have reached a turning point in this country, and I am encouraged by the commitment of partners such as The Fragrance Foundation.  I am optimistic that together we will affect meaningful change within the fragrance industry.

Dr. Brooke Carlson

What does the scholarship mean for FIT? 

The Fragrance Foundation scholarship program symbolizes the college’s interest in helping diverse professionals in the fragrance industry progress to managerial levels and beyond. The support encourages individuals with a passion for fragrance but may not be able to afford the cost of an undergraduate or master’s degree to pursue their educational goals. 

What does it mean for the future of the fragrance industry? 

This scholarship support will be instrumental in advancing the capabilities of the industry itself. In order to best understand and serve diverse groups of consumers, fragrance industry businesses and brands must reflect that same diversity internally among their leadership and in their teams. This is as critical as are the opportunities that will be provided to diverse professionals in the industry.  

What are the broader goals that you share for DEI within education and within the fragrance industry? 

The creative and business industries offer so many varied professional opportunities and we must broaden and focus our reach when it comes to educating our diverse youth and young adults about these career paths. This must be a sustained effort embedded in everything we do. As for the fragrance industry specifically, identifying and showcasing all the career options—from fragrance suppliers to independent manufacturers, small independent brands to large global brands, and of course, retailers—is key. 

What do you think will be the biggest hurdles? 

It takes time, effort, financial support and commitment by all stakeholders to realize change. Recognizing that we need the professional talent of diverse individuals who are also representative of the national and global consumer in order to create, innovate, market, and sell fragrances and fragranced products with authentic, compelling stories that resonate will result in overcoming any hurdles.

Malinda Appel – Senior Director of Product Development, NEST FRAGRANCES

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?

The most rewarding benefit of being a CFM student was the life-long friendships I have with other graduates of the program. Over ten years later we still love using our senses to cook delicious meals together.  We celebrate our life milestones and, as we grow in our professions, we are one another’s cheerleaders – even when Finalists for the same Fragrance Foundation Award!  

What was the most important thing you learned?

Professor Bonofiglio provided the most helpful tips on how to begin a career in this industry.  We were encouraged to get involved while we studied through volunteering, interning, or working behind the counter. By doing so we could see in real time what we were learning in the classroom.  Professor Bonofiglio also stressed how important it was to make positive connections within the industry. This advice helped me successfully proceed with an ambitious opportunity received upon graduation.

How has your education at FIT helped you in your career?

My education at FIT allowed me to make career connections while I was obtaining my CFM undergraduate degree.  As a student, I was already hands-on exploring different areas of the industry, ultimately recognizing my passion for product development.  I was able to take on a targeted approach to my career directly stemming from my experiences as a student.

Gayathri Balasundar – Director of Marketing, Takasago

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?

The content and rhythm of the FIT program is incredible because of it’s community – the FIT community is generous.  From the professors and mentors to my immediate cohort and the extended alumni network and even the overseas partners – Everyone is very giving with sharing their knowledge, experiences and offering their support.  It’s the gift that just keeps giving!

 
What was the most important thing you learned?

In the world of cosmetics and fragrance, there are so many stories and stats embedded into every brand, person and product that it is important to stay open minded.  The most important thing I learned was to listen to all perspectives and challenge the status quo with empathy to move the industry forward. Today many of our alumni take this invaluable lesson to question what stories are being told in our products and what perspectives are represented around the table. 

 How has your education at FIT helped you in your career? 

Through my work ethic, education, and community, I have held key roles at several amazing companies. Over the years, I found clarity in articulating my strengths and value.  I gained the courage to leverage my inclusive spirit and own my cross-cultural background to highlight and amplify diverse voices in my work. Above all, I take the same support and strength that has been given to me by the FIT community and channel it towards those I mentor & coach.

Simone Bolotin – Senior Director, Influencer Marketing and Public Relations (US), Coty Luxury

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?

Learning from and collaborating with those who had experiences different from my own. What is unique about the program is that you learn as much, if not more, from your peers and classmates, as you do from your professors and guest lecturers. As a communications professional who tends to work most closely with other Marketing and PR pros, it was fascinating to work on group projects with classmates from backgrounds spanning HR to product development, who provided insights and perspectives that I never would have considered otherwise. The two field studies programs in Europe and Asia also provided invaluable perspectives on other cultures and shopping habits that opened my mind to new ideas.

What was the most important thing you learned?

 The value of collaboration and teamwork. Since much of the coursework in the FIT program includes group projects, I was forced to rely on classmates to deliver work essential to our collective success, relinquishing the control I was used to in my professional role. The outcome was undoubtedly improved as a result, and allowed each team member to shine and take pride in their individual contributions. As my management responsibilities have continued to grow following graduation, I have endeavored to instill this collaborative spirit and sense of pride in my team at Coty, with a mindset rooted in trust, accountability and recognition. 

How has your education at FIT helped you in your career? 

 Having a more holistic understanding of all of the aspects of the beauty and fragrance business helps me to have a more well-rounded perspective. When I talk to the perfumers creating our fragrances or the sales teams negotiating shelf space with our retailers, I am able to better understand the ways in which their roles are essential to the overall business, and how I can take a more integrated approach in my own work. The network I built with my classmates at FIT has also been incredibly beneficial, with a solid support system of industry rock stars that I am now lucky to call lifelong friends.

Sophia Gillio –  Director of Sales and Specialty Business Category, MANE

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?

The most rewarding part of the FIT CFMM Master’s Program was the ability to make lasting connections with some of the industry’s most talented people.  I like to think about my time in the program as the ultimate meeting of the minds – an all access pass to collaborate, challenge, and learn from beauty industry peers, senior executives, professors, and beyond in a way that transcends the normal limitations of corporate culture and boundaries.

What was the most important thing you learned?

The most important thing I learned is that an open mind paired with the diversity of thought and experiences of others can be transformative to growth – as an individual or as a corporation. In the CFMM Master’s program, we gained exposure to diversity of thought not only from our cohort of beauty industry executives, but from countless people around the globe through our travels to Europe and Asia. In corporate culture, I think there is often a tendency to stay hyper-focused on one’s job, one’s company, one’s industry; however, the ability and confidence to leverage the strengths and knowledge of people with different experiences, backgrounds, skillsets, and cultures opens the door to the possibility of exponential growth.   

How has your education at FIT helped you in your career? 

The depth of research we conducted in certain areas has proven beneficial to my ability to add value back to my current company and beyond.  I have a profound interest in what is next for beauty and fragrance + tech, and our culminating Capstone presentation, Beauty and Technology, laid the foundation to my knowledge of tech’s impact on human identity and societal evolution.  We are at a pivotal moment in time where our opportunity to impact the digital world in an inherently physical business is unprecedented through the metaverse and what it means for our businesses and user experiences.  I look forward to spending more time building in this space!

Kaleigh Prokop – Perfumer, MANE

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?
My FIT experience created lifelong friends, both personally and professionally.   These connections enhanced my in-person experience with a chance to learn from others’ knowledge and points of view.  With its unique focus on the beauty industry, I was able to blend my real-life with work-related projects, and push me personally into new rewarding experiences. 
 
What was the most important thing you learned?
The most important thing I learned from the program is that I can turn my passion into a career.  On the first day of History of Beauty class I learned that Perfumery was an actual career.  That class changed my life, I knew immediately what path I wanted to take!  I now have the unique opportunity to create fragrances that consumers attribute to their best olfactive memories. 
 
How has your education at FIT helped you in your career? 
I was able to secure an internship after meeting a perfumer at an event that I accompanied with FIT Professor, Virginia Bonofiglio.  That internship opened the door to my future and created opportunities that led to my lifelong career.  I started as a perfumer’s assistant, which led to my apprenticeship learning in house perfumery with a leading fragrance house.  My success can be traced to the opportunities created by my experience at FIT.

Tracy Taylor – Associate Director, Consumer Insights, Firmenich

What did you find to be most rewarding about the program?
 Walking off the stage at capstone after delivering our industry presentation!
 
What was the most important thing you learned?
 With determination and humility, almost anything is learnable. From a career standpoint, it was a true gift to be surrounded by so many other industry professionals. I was vicariously exposed to such a diverse range of roles, departments and companies, without ever leaving the classroom. The exchange of experiences with other students will always be one of the most valuable aspects of the program for me.
 
How has your education at FIT helped you in your career? 
The CFMM program helped me see beyond the specifics of my role, enabling me to grasp broader industry dynamics that impact fragrance development and our clients. I LOVED the freedom to explore new topics, ideas and business challenges, beyond my usual scope of work. I emerged feeling more confident making strategic decisions and guiding my internal and external partners. Additionally, after completing the program, I feel more integrated within the fragrance community as a whole.

The Circle of Champions event was truly extraordinary on many levels. 

On an individual level for the attendees, it was the first in-person event for the fragrance community in two years. That human connection was exhilarating and heartwarming for all 175 in the fragrance community, plus more than 50 FIT student guests.

For The Fragrance Foundation, it was a landmark for our Circle of Champions signature event as we honored outstanding educators as Champions, reflecting our core value of nurturing talent. Professors Virginia Bonofiglio and Stephan Kanlian have displayed unwavering leadership and dedication, and have shared their expertise at FIT’s programs for decades, impacting hundreds of students.

It was my great honor at this momentous event to present the awards to these Champions and to announce the first ever Fragrance Foundation FIT Scholarship dedicated to students of diverse backgrounds interested in pursuing a career in fragrance! 

The Fragrance Foundation FIT Diversity Scholarship signifies a collective commitment to diversity, and a natural next step in the advancement of our #FragranceForwardTFF initiative. It was a groundbreaking evening for us all at TFF as we showed we can amplify our commitment to championing diversity in all of its forms, and strive towards a fully inclusive industry that is an accurate reflection of our world.

The evening concluded with the guests joining me to recite the TFF DEI Pledge together as one. Click here to take the pledge! This is just the beginning of actionable steps clearly showing all we can achieve together!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On October 20th, TFF kicked off its ambitious and focused DEI initiative with Industry Perspectives on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion, a free webinar watched by more than 1,500 attendees, including beauty and fragrance executives, individuals from fragrance brands and media, as well as students and consumers across the country. The event brought to life and articulated #FragranceForwardTFF, the industry-wide inclusivity movement that TFF is galvanizing in order to push forward significant and visible change.

The event featured a thoughtful and engaging discussion from panelists Chris Collins, the founder of World of Chris Collins, Corey Smith, Head of Diversity and Inclusion for North America, LVMH, Rob Smith, CEO and Founder of The Phluid Project, and Linda Song, Senior Perfumer at Givaudan. Each of these inspiring individuals shared their personal stories with moderator Helen Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer and luxury brand marketing communications expert at Finn Partners, as well as a wealth of insight and actionable advice both for those inside and outside the fragrance industry.

Jerry Vittoria, Chairman of the Fragrance Foundation Board of Directors opened the webinar, naming DEI as the number one priority of TFF, and outlining the broad definition of diversity that the organization considers important to its mission. “Our definition of diversity goes beyond gender,” he said, “to include all contexts in which people may identify themselves as part of a minority group. These include ethnicity, gender identity, sexual orientation, different abilities, age, and a variety of backgrounds.” Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy outlined the #FragranceForwardTFF goal, “to foster a fully inclusive industry that truly represents the population of the USA” and introduced the panelists, all of whom had passionate and nuanced thoughts to share on how the entire industry can ignite and propel positive changes.

They all shared personal stories—Collins discussed his journey from fashion into fragrance, and his acknowledgment from the outset that “Whether you’re Black or you’re a woman or you’re LBGTQ+, you have to work three times as hard for anyone to take you seriously”; Song recollected her “love story” with raw materials that drew her in, and mused on how being Korean in America, and a woman, has shaped and enriched her work; Rob Smith outlined his journey from Macy’s and the corporate world into the Phluid Project, the world’s first gender free store, and the Phluid Scent Elixirs. “Why should anything be strictly male or female?” he asked. “It should be about what makes you feel good and brings out your authentic self”; and Corey Smith, who has spent more than 20 years working in DEI, highlighted the challenges and importance of initiating changes within an industry that cherishes heritage.

The panel touched on everything from the need for visibility and representation in marketing to the critical importance of the three A’s: allyship, advocacy, and activism. Corey Smith drove home the point that all efforts need to be 360—and while pledges are important, what’s even more important is “having diverse products on our shelves, products created by diverse people for diverse people.” They offered advice for anyone, but especially minorities, to break into the fragrance business, from networking to mentoring, to just sticking with it. “Don’t be afraid to fail,” said Collins. “If you’re afraid to fail, that means you’re afraid to take risks. You have to be courageous enough to know that you’re going to get some things wrong. You have to learn from your mistakes. And you can’t be afraid to ask for help.”

Song spoke about the importance of having this conversation at all levels of the industry, and thanked The Fragrance Foundation and Michael Edwards for taking a strong stance about the use of the term “oriental” in the fragrance industry, recognizing that it is outdated and offensive, and announced that Givaudan will now be using the classification Amber-y in its place. Corey Smith talked about how critical cognitive diversity is, and all agreed that greater diversity means greater creativity, output, and success. “There is a value in difference,” he said. “Innovation comes from difference. Productivity, efficiency. All of that comes from a bunch of different people sitting around a table and debating until the best idea rises to the top.”

And as for how we move the needle in the right direction? It will take everyone, individually and together. “Accountability is individual, then it’s team, then it’s organization,” said Corey Smith. “It’s a level of self-awareness, learning, unlearning, respecting difference. All of that contributes to what we call inclusion.” Rob Smith advised taking leaps, having conversations, listening, being aware, and celebrating every individual. “You’re going to have to do things that are untraditional in order to make space for untraditional brands to succeed,” he said. “We’re never done with this journey, so let’s keep pushing and challenging each other.”

Among the questions submitted by viewers in a post-event follow-up was: What would you change if you were Chairman of the Board at a large fragrance house or corporate fragrance brand? “First,” Rob Smith said, “I’d look at the diverse composition of the Leadership team and the Board of Directors. I’d make a commitment toward diverse representation, equitable pay and an inclusive environment. I’d ensure the company had ERG’s and a mentor program for high potential and diverse executives. Finally, I’d hire outside consultants to hold the team accountable.” He also offered advice for finding mentors: “Reach out to people you admire. Find a few mentors who can guide you through your career. And, understand, they may not look like you. Many people are looking for talent and opportunities to create a more inclusive future.”

“When seeking a mentor, don’t give up and try not to take it personally—sometimes reaching out to someone on the wrong day or wrong time is just that,” Song said, in response to the question. “Try again, try a different approach, try a different person, take time to self-reflect, pick yourself back up and keep going!” And regarding what TFF’s DEI initiative means to her personally, she said, “All individuals play a role. I never would have imagined speaking on this topic or that I would ever feel qualified, but it’s a human experience and we all have the right to it.”

Levy closed Industry Perspectives on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion with an announcement of the creation of an industry-wide, Fragrance Foundation DEI Signatory Pledge. TFF’s 100+ members – that include both independent and corporate entities – will commit not only to furthering their respective DEI goals, but also to assisting TFF in building and shaping #FragranceForwardTFF in the months and years ahead. The pledge in full: “I commit to being fragrance forward by holding myself and my company accountable at all levels to drive diversity, equity and inclusion. I commit to breaking boundaries for people of all backgrounds in launching, growing, and sustaining careers in the fragrance industry. I commit to actionable steps to broadening my perspective, changing my workplace, and changing the industry.”

Critical to the Fragrance Foundation’s commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion—and indeed to the entire fragrance industry’s future—is education and outreach. Earlier this month, TFF launched its TFF Career Paths series, which will involve visits to colleges around the country to showcase professions in the fragrance industry and engage curious young perfume-lovers who may not otherwise have easy access to information or guidance about the field.

The inaugural event, Scents of Success: How to Build a Career in the Fragrance Industry, was held during Homecoming at Spelman College, an Historically Black institution in Atlanta and the alma mater of Sharné Jackson, TFF’s Senior Director of Events, Education and Give Back. Venetta Colman, Director of Institutional Effectiveness at Spelman College, opened the webinar, introducing Jackson and TFF President Linda G. Levy, who explained the history and purpose of TFF, including its great mission: to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. “Regardless of what you are studying,” she said, “I bet everyone who has tuned in today could find a path into the fragrance world if they wanted to.” Jackson’s own impressive and varied journey from Spelman to joining TFF—including stints as a first-grade teacher, the Director of Events at Macy’s, and a developer of educational initiatives at City College—provided the event’s first inspiring story, and opened the floor to very special guests: Chris Collins, founder of The World of Chris Collins luxury fragrance brand and Chavalia Dunlap-Mwamba, founder and CEO of independent fragrance brand Pink MahogHany.

Collins and Dunlap-Mwamba both revealed that their paths into perfume were not exactly straightforward. Collins, who double majored in psychology and biology thinking he would become a doctor, ended up being a model for Ralph Lauren for more than 20 years, then encountering Kilian Hennessy, who encouraged his love for fragrance and inspired him to create his own line. “My advice is to be open to opportunities that come your way,” he said, “and do what you’re passionate about because that will always give you incentive.” Dunlap-Mwamba, meanwhile, first worked as an elementary music teacher, but it was her fascination with fragrance design and the creators behind scents that lured her into becoming a perfume brand entrepreneur. Both felt challenged by others who didn’t take them seriously along the way, but perseverance, self-belief—and, of course, the quality of their products—ultimately earned them respect and gave them the traction that they needed for success.

The two also shared their personal stories about connecting to fragrance and how it inspires them every day. “I make very powerful, intense, emotional fragrances, because I think a good fragrance should move you to tears; a good fragrance should make you fall in love with yourself and make other people fall in love with you.” Dunlap-Mwamba taught herself, through time, commitment, and trial and error, how to create perfumes. “I wanted my imagination to just run free, and fragrance has allowed me to do that.”

Advice for students and budding entrepreneurs? “Own your individuality,” Dunlap-Mwamba said, “Figure out your why. And never deviate from it.” Collins advised being open and listening, but weeding out the actionable information. “Love what you do and be very passionate about it, because when those times come when you fail, you’ve got to get up.” Both recommended finding mentors who can share insight, knowing your own strengths and weaknesses, and not being afraid to take chances.

In the second half, students engaged in an experimental smell session, in which they smelled seven scent ingredients provided by Firmenich that introduced them to the seven scent categories—floral, fresh, citrus, fruity, woody, sweet, and spicy—while Collins and Dunlap-Mwamba talked through how they use these notes and ingredients in fragrances. At the end, students chimed in with enthusiastic inquiries about everything from marketing to entrepreneurship to fragrance structure and complexity.

As the first of many such sessions, Dr. DeKimberlen Neely, Associate Dean for Spelman College, declared Scents of Success “a win-win! Our students will now be exposed to a career path that may be unknown to them without this collaboration. Thank you, Linda Levy and Sharné Jackson for being intentional about inviting us into your world and leveraging your influence to include students of color in this space.”

This issue of Accords marks a landmark month in the history of The Fragrance Foundation. Our announcement of  #FragranceForwardTFF and our DEI  Pledge officially kicked off and was enthusiastically received by thousands in the fragrance community. Vast media coverage and the live webinar declared our commitment to our #1 DEI priority. 

Now we are moving forward together to ensure that the fragrance community welcomes, appreciates and celebrates people of all backgrounds. We will continue to reach out to colleges and universities following the premiere of Scents of Success at Spelman College. Students will learn that a career path in fragrance has many different entry points, and that the industry intends to recruit, hire, train and retain diverse teams that reflect the entire USA population.

More news will be announced soon that proclaims our united TFF commitment in this ongoing effort. We will continue to take actionable  steps to move forward and expand our reach. The DEI Pledge will serve as our guide and a thread in all we do. We know there is much to be accomplished, but with the passion we share, we are united to move forward together.

We look forward to seeing many in the fragrance community at The Circle of Champions first in person TFF event soon. For those who cannot attend, we will share highlights of the presentations & major DEI breaking news!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

September 2021

“I appear to have struck a chord,” says Michael Clinton, whose book ROAR Into the Second Half of Your Life (Before It’s Too Late) is currently—and with considerable zeitgeist-capturing buzz—climbing best-seller lists. ROAR (an acronym that stands for four actionable steps towards a more fulfilling future: Reimagine yourself, Own who you are, Act on what’s next, and Reassess your relationships) was born when Clinton stepped away from his role as president and publishing director of Hearst Magazines, and it’s an inspirational, motivational exhortation to view growing older as an opportunity to forge new opportunities and experiences. Clinton—an accomplished photographer, pilot, philanthropist, marathon runner, and wine maker—is himself a role model in this regard, and while ROAR may be targeted at the post-50 set, it resonates with anyone looking to re-examine their relationship with work and envisioning moving through the chapters of their life with passion and gusto. Here, Clinton shares his advice with ACCORDS on how to take steps – and yes, even fragrant sniffs – towards a happy future.

You interviewed 40 people who made major life pivots for ROAR. Who did you find most personally inspiring?

We called them Reimagineers. One was a woman named Stephanie Young. She was a book editor for her whole career. She had studied English in college. She was 53 when she decided that she wanted to become a doctor. She applied to American medical schools and she faced a lot of ageism, but she then got accepted to a Caribbean medical school. During that process, she went through a divorce. So, after getting scholarships and grants to fund her education, she went off to the Caribbean on her own in her mid-50s. I thought that took an enormous amount of courage. She’s now in her early 60s and she is a doctor. She had a lot of twists and turns along the way, but she just kept going. She kept pushing forward. She had a great quote: “You can’t read about the top 10 most beautiful futures. You have to find it through yourself, keep the vision, even when you stumble along the way.

You also conducted a huge survey, gauging people’s feelings about their life choices. What were some of the most surprising findings?

We had 630 respondents, a cross-section of people from all kinds of walks of life, and we asked them if they could do a major redo of their life, would they? Seventy-six percent of them said they would, which was a surprise to me. Then we gave them the opportunity to write in what defining moment in their life they would redo. The number one response was, “I would redo my marriage or not marry the person that I married,” which was really interesting. The second was, “I wish I had taken school more seriously so that I could have done more, expanded more, had other opportunities.”

But the majority of people still felt optimistic about future possibilities and things they might do. This gets back to the thesis of the book, that if you’re 50 and you’re healthy, you may live to be 90, and when you pivot out of a first career, you begin to realize that you have another 20, 30, maybe more, years to live. It’s not your father’s or your mother’s retirement.

What can hold people back?

Two things. One is self-imposed barriers. They say, “I coulda, shoulda, woulda” or “I made a mistake and I didn’t do X or I didn’t do Y.” The second thing is self-imposed ageism. They say, “I’m too old to do that.” Where did that come from? In the book, instead of using the term age appropriate, I say person appropriate. Women are having babies at 50. You may decide to adopt in your 50s. You may decide to completely change your career in your 50s. To say you’re too old for something is an old-fashioned way of thinking about it.

What are signs people should be aware of that it might be time for change in their lives?

I think we all have this little nagging voice in the back of our heads when we need change. Generally, what happens is it gets louder and louder and you can ignore it and be dissatisfied or you can confront it and identify it and say, “Okay, I know that I’ve got to leave this profession or this company or this relationship.”

One of my favorite stories in the book is Rob Smith. He wanted to work in social justice, but his father told him, “I’m only going to pay for college if you study business.” So, he studied business, and had a long successful career at Macy’s, but then when he was around 50, he had kind of a meltdown and he said, “I need to check out and think about my life.” He went traveling and did an ayahuasca ceremony in Peru, and in a hallucinogenic state, he saw his 16-year-old self and said, “I’m so sorry that I abandoned you.” I thought that was very poetic and also poignant. He came back home and he started the Phluid Project, and moved into the social justice space in his 50s. He’s now thriving and loving it.

What’s your advice for people who feel like they need something new, but don’t know where to start?

What I learned from the interviewees is they identified what it was that they needed to change, then they spent a year-plus going deep into it, really pulling it apart to figure out how they were going to make that change. It wasn’t a spontaneous thing. It was very well thought out. Some of them started creating parallel lives to their existing life by turning a hobby into a passion or starting to freelance. A lot of them went back to school.

You also shared a very nice concept of life-layering to find your passion.

That’s right. If you start building a layer, over time that layer may become your launchpad into a new business, or into becoming an entrepreneur. In the beauty industry, there are lots of examples of people who worked for established beauty companies but then went off and launched their own skincare or fragrance or something else in the beauty world. That’s an example of layering. You learn different aspects of the job you already do. If you’re a marketing person and you’re weak on the financial side, then you can go and take some courses in financial management and start rounding out your business experience.

Do you think fragrance is a tool that can be used to focus, or open up connections that might help someone find their path?

We have to find the triggers that can put us into a state of reflection, introspection—let’s even call it meditation. I think fragrance is a great example of something that inherently brings that out. If you are sitting in your private space and you are reflecting on your life, having an aroma that can help facilitate that is a great tool. Sometimes that’s an applied fragrance. Sometimes that’s a fragrance in a candle.

Fragrances and aromas also invoke lots of memories. My grandmother was a huge influence on me, and when I smell the fragrance she wore, which was Youth Dew, it takes me right back to her wisdom, her advice. It makes me stop and think about her. If you had a powerful mentor or you had a powerful influence in your life and she or he wore something that was comforting to you, it will take you back to thinking about them, and put you in the state of really being able to take a deeper dive into your own life. Maybe it will take you back to a time when you were younger that you had a discussion with someone about what your dreams and aspirations were. You may pick up a thread just from that alone.

Ageism escapes a lot of DEI initiatives. What are your thoughts on how even employers can be more inclusive about age?

A very good point. If you think about it, ageism affects you regardless of your gender, your race, your ethnicity, your religious beliefs. It’s a universal experience that people over 50 have. Part of it is language. Part of it is government and corporate policies that haven’t kept pace with the change that is happening with the dynamic 50-plus cohort. Thirty-four percent of the population is now 50-plus. Every day, 10,000 people turn 65. In 2030, one in five Americans will be 65 or older.

I think that you’re going to see over the next few years a lot of change in policies, government institutions, and corporate policies, especially because a lot of people who are “retirement” age are going to leave a huge gap in employment needs. So you’ll have a lot of people who are 60-plus who are going to be working in different kinds of hybrid roles. There’s going to be a rethink because there are not enough people to fill what will become the jobs that the boomers will be leaving from their first careers.

In the book, instead of talking about retire, we talk about rewire. Instead of talking about getting older, we say we’re living longer. Instead of talking about self-imposed ageism, we focus on self-imposed growthism. Ultimately, things are going to change because the people are going to force change.

September 2021

The pandemic has had different implications across industries. In the case of prestige beauty, from the onset, areas of the market have been particularly hard-hit as so many beauty products are tied to social usage occasions. On the other hand, consumers deemed many areas essential, such as focusing on self-care and treating themselves to little luxuries. This validates the emotional component of the beauty industry. Despite the need to spend more time at home and observe social distance during the past year and a half, people have still wanted to look and feel good ― even in those moments when they were living in loungewear, working from home, or not venturing much farther than their own backyard.

Today, amid many uncertainties, we are seeing a return to some aspects of normal life, and the beauty industry is experiencing renewed growth across all its categories. Fragrance has emerged as the brightest star, posting unprecedented, double-digit growth against both 2020 and pre-pandemic 2019.

We asked Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at The NPD Group, to help us understand fragrance’s strong growth.

What are the biggest takeaways in terms of the fragrance category’s performance so far this year?

In the U.S., fragrance sales began to recover in August 2020, and remained positive for the remainder of the year before surging in 2021. In the first half of this year, fragrance revenue grew by 82% compared to 2020, and by 35% compared to pre-pandemic 2019, which is nothing short of spectacular. Higher-concentration juices, such as EDP and parfums, have been by far the category’s strongest growth drivers. These higher fragrance oil concentrations enable a longer-lasting fragrance, which is a key consumer purchase driver. In fact, our latest Fragrance Consumer Report shows 70% of U.S. fragrance wearers are willing to pay more for a higher-concentration, longer-lasting fragrance.

Why fragrance, and why now?

There is no question that the past year and a half has been an emotional rollercoaster for all of us. And there is the science behind scent that could help explain why consumers are focused on fragrance. Research tells us the sense of smell is directly related to memory. In fact, smells trigger more vivid emotional memories and are better at inducing that feeling of “being brought back in time” than images. Our Fragrance Consumer Report shows three out of four consumers connect fragrance to boosting their mood or bringing back memories. As a beauty category, it is well positioned as a means to lift our spirits.

Could fragrance be the new lipstick index?

I believe it could be, especially given that lipstick is not exactly pandemic-friendly when wearing a mask that covers the lips. And the shift to fragrance — specifically luxury fragrances — is a solid indicator that consumers are treating themselves. This was validated in our recent omnibus study, where we asked consumers why they recently purchased fragrance. The top reason was as a treat for themselves.

How do you expect fragrance to perform during the critical holiday season?

Times of gift-giving associated with key holidays, including Valentine’s Day, Mother’s and Father’s Day, and the December holidays, create excitement around fragrance. These are the biggest revenue-generating periods for the market. I expect double-digit growth in fragrance for this year’s holiday season. Clearly, the fourth quarter is an exciting time for anyone in the fragrance business, but despite the positive news there is no question that many unknowns remain. The delta variant is a major consideration, and we have no idea what’s around the corner. But the eternal optimist in me says that it’s because of all this uncertainty that our industry has many opportunities to maintain the momentum. It’s all about identifying those opportunities to drive your business forward.

To view the report prepared by NPD, FRAGRANCE INSIGHTS: THE NEW FRAGRANCE CONSUMER, click here available on TFF website.

September 2021

Fanny Bal, IFF

Did you always dream of being a perfumer, or did you begin another career path or study path first?

I was supposed to become “an engineer like everyone else,” but I was looking for passion and thrills. My goal was for my life to be stimulating: I wanted to have a job that I loved because getting up every day to exercise a profession I didn’t enjoy just wasn’t an option. When I found out about the Isipca program and the profession of perfumer, which would consist of creating perfumes that people would wear, and realized that I might find myself recognizing in the street a perfume that I had created. I thought that had a certain magic to it, and that if my job were such, every day would be different from the day before and the day after. And so it would truly be a job that I’d love. I took the plunge while my parents, who were unfamiliar with the profession and concerned about the small number of job opportunities, watched in amazement. Their fears were legitimate, for the exams are notoriously difficult and it is a path strewn with obstacles: Until the very last moment, you don’t know how it’s going to turn out. So I did have my doubts!

What do you believe that your experiences or studies outside of perfumery have brought to your work as a perfumer?

I think having studied chemistry provided me with a very good skeleton for the precision and the rigor required to be a perfumer. Also, I love pastries; I love making pastries myself and visiting luxury pastry shops. I draw quite a lot of inspiration from pastries; they are behind my Santal Pistache and Nutella Fumé accords. What I love is that you have to follow the recipe to the letter. It takes a lot of rigor and a touch of creativity, as in our perfume craft. Making pastries is precision work. Pastry is about self-indulgence, addiction, a sweet tooth. I like to explore addiction in perfume, the sugary addiction that has characterized perfume for almost 20 years now. My latest collaboration with pastry chef Nicolas Bernardé, to create a candle and a collection of “pâtes de fruits” with LMR perfumery naturals, was a fantastic source of inspiration, a great creative playground!

Who have been your greatest career role models?

Dominique Ropion, of course! Dominique offered me a technical apprenticeship and was the perfumer figure who materialized the profession I wanted to pursue. When I started my training, of course I wanted to be a perfumer, to create perfumes; but I didn’t exactly know what that entailed. Working with him, seeing all that rigor and precision, made me understand. A perfumer has an artistic, creative side, of course. But they are not people who have their head in the clouds, who simply improvise and follow their inspiration, doing pretty much what they like, creating perfumes as if by magic. No, there’s a real rigor, and that’s what inspired me. It’s that tension, that contrast between the artistic side and the very rigorous side, that dialogue between the two, that appeals to me.

Jessica Reichert, Robertet

 Did you always dream of being a perfumer, or did you begin another career path or study path first?

The first career that I ever wanted was to be an actor, but many of the schools that I had applied to had very competitive programs which I did not get into, and I studied art history instead. I was hoping to get an opportunity in the city focusing on art while working in the lab as a fragrance compounder for Premier Specialties. Premier was considering hiring another perfumer and being that both my parents were perfumers, they had asked if I wanted to be trained. I had my doubts because the majority of the perfumers I knew were men, and I didn’t want people to think I only had the opportunity because of nepotism rather than earning it. Ted Barba, who would be the one to train me, was consulting for Premier at the time, and I told him my concerns and thought it would be better if I continued pursuing a career in the arts, to which he asked, “You don’t think creating fragrance is an art?”  It was that question that made me want to be trained, which was not easy by any means, but now, I do feel that I create art, which has become one of the most beautiful and fulfilling things about my life.

What do you believe that your experiences or studies outside of perfumery have brought to your work as a perfumer?

Something that is very special is that I have been able to travel to many different places around the world, with achieving the goal to travel to 30 countries before I turned thirty. It gave me the chance to be exposed to different foods, music, art, the way people live and to explore nature. It has been wonderful to capture those moments by creating fragrances based on the deserts in Morocco, the beaches in Brazil and even the tea plantations in Sri Lanka. One other facet of my life that I feel is very important is being part of the LGTBQ+ community. When the pandemic happened, it was a blessing for me, giving me time to focus on myself and have the courage to not lie about who I was, and come out as queer and non-binary. It has been so rewarding as I can see a difference in myself and my work now that I feel I can be authentic, and I am fortunate to be surrounded by people that make me feel valued and accepted. 

Who have been your greatest career role models?

Besides the obvious of my parents, Odila Zocca and Tony Reichert and my mentor Ted, my greatest role model is Cecile Hua. She has had a very successful career as a perfumer and had to work harder than most people to get into this industry. I have had the privilege to work with her on the American Society of Perfumers Board and be part of a panel with her for the Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce, where we discussed the importance of Diversity in perfumery. She is extremely graceful and honest about what she feels is important for being a perfumer and has helped me so much. I am extremely  lucky to have gotten to know her and feel that I can call her a friend.

Christine Hassan, Givaudan 

Did you always dream of being a perfumer, or did you begin another career path or study path first?

Although I didn’t know the word “perfumer”, I recognized early on that I wanted to work with fragrance. Smell has always been an integral part of my identity and how I interact with the world around me–the first job I can remember wanting was to become a florist; my favorite lab in high school was synthesizing scented molecules. Apparently, I even told my best friend that I would make her a wedding fragrance when we were kids…and a year ago, I did!

It was eventually through an internship with Givaudan that I first learned about ISIPCA and the job of a perfumer.

What do you believe that your experiences or studies outside of perfumery have brought to your work as a perfumer?

Along with Biochemistry, I studied Fine Arts in college, specializing in sculpture and cinematography. That training taught me how to fully immerse myself in the creative process. Designing a fragrance is like any art, you must understand the history of your craft and the fundamental methods and materials in order to develop your own style. I also learned vulnerability. You need to be vulnerable in order to put your heart into your craft. 

Who have been your greatest career role models?

My greatest role model in life has always been my mom. She left France for the US at the age of 20 (this was back when making international phone calls were a rarity), knowing very little English and having no family in the states, to work for the UN, where she felt she could help impact the world in a more positive way. 

I like to think that I followed her fearless example, with that sense of adventure and curiosity guiding my career. I have particularly enjoyed the multi-cultural experiences that have fed my creative spirit. I have also found a strong sense of purpose as a perfumer, being able to touch people’s lives with the beauty and magic of scent.

This edition of Accords features varied perspectives and subject matter, but are all interwoven with fragrance, as an important factor in personal or professional paths. Also, all share my personal priority of positivity and moving forward cautiously, with great optimism. 

Our spotlight is on Michael Clinton who has just published ROAR, which is a “must read.”  While it would have been a success at any time, ROAR  particularly resonates now as many of us have reflected on our lives during this pandemic, evaluating not just what we have achieved so far, but also starting to make changes for an even more fulfilling future. His terms of “rewiring” instead of retiring and “life layering” serve as great mantras to move forward with positivity. He shares his own personal story, as well as many others including our TFF star, Rob Smith. 

Michael also adds “ageism” as an important obstacle we must all overcome and TFF will certainly include this as we unite and lead the fragrance community in Diversity, Equity and Inclusion.  Of course, in this exclusive interview with Michael, our editor April Long has Michael share the importance of fragrance in life reflection, memory and its transportiveness.

Larissa Jensen, Vice President, Industry Advisor at The NPD Group, shares  the positive business growth of fragrances and optimism for the upcoming holiday season. I am thrilled that a new measure in the industry “The Fragrance Index” has brought heightened awareness to the overall beauty category. We are all appreciative of how fragrances have impacted consumers’ lives, prompting memories, escapism, mood elevation, enhanced selfcare, and  as an important daily  invisible accessory.

Our 3 featured Perfumers share their stories of what they dreamed early on before training as perfumers. I am happy these 3 talented individuals reimagined their dreams. One day if you are lucky enough to meet them in person, perhaps you will be certain as I am that we gained 3 talented perfumers even if we lost a pastry chef in Fanny, an actor in Jessica, and a florist for Christine. Instead their related fields have benefited from their fragrance creations. They all found their authentic talents translated from their original career goal to that of a perfumer, where they could incorporate these other areas of creativity.

We will be back in October as we enter a very exciting stage where TFF goes into a major action phase with Diversity, Equity, & Inclusion!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

June 2021

Calice Becker, the widely adored 2021 Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award recipient, has made the world a more beautiful place in countless ways. Her work has a signature grace, but she is also unafraid to be daring, and her singular vision has brought us such masterpieces as Dior J’Adore, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl, and several distinctive By Kilian creations including Back to Black and Woman In Gold. The VP Perfumer is also Director of the Givaudan Perfumery School, where she shares her thoughtful approach and accumulated wisdom with the next generation.

How does it feel to be awarded the Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award?

I have many feelings. First, I think it’s incredible. Second, I’m not sure I deserve it. Third, does it mean that it’s something that is behind me? How about all of the things I still have to do, because I put myself into a lot of new projects. I’m always thinking of what’s next. So, let’s put it this way—I’m not used to this!

What made you want to be a perfumer?

I didn’t want to be a perfumer. I wanted to be a doctor. I wanted to heal people. And this feeling, I still have it today, because to be compassionate and to bring good things to people, in a way, is what I do with fragrances. I was pushed into math studies because my father is a mathematician. I ended up doing an internship in an engineering company. And I said, oh God, no, never. I would never do this professionally. It was not my type of environment. That’s why my mom suggested that I become a nose. I imagined that I would be like a dog, sniffing the conditions in factories. I had no idea what a nose was. She told me, “No, it’s not about that. It’s about creating fragrances for companies like Chanel.” At the time we didn’t have the internet, so I grabbed the yellow pages. I called Chanel, and they said, “No, that won’t be possible.” I called many places and someone was nice enough to tell me that I should get in touch with one of the fragrance houses. These days, you have Wikipedia, but then you have to be very resourceful. I called the perfumery school in Versailles and they told me I needed a Masters in Chemistry, so I was just about to go buy a lab coat when I got a phone call from Roure asking me to come in for an interview. I guess I made some impression, because they hired me to enter in the perfume school in Grasse. When I started perfumery school, I was like a kid in a candy store. I couldn’t believe that people would be paid to play with smells. I fell in love with the profession the day I began to learn it.

Did you have a mentor?

Yes. You do your studies for four years and then you work with a mentor. I had very well-known people. Dominique Ropion and Francoise Caron, who have both done so many fantastic fragrances. And then I started to fly with my own wings. I always loved what I was doing, so each time I got a promotion or a raise, I was like, “Do you think I need it?” I was already so happy to do it.

How do you describe your style?

Even if I tried to do things that are very meaningful and powerful, I always work very much towards harmony. So, if there is a spike of something, I always try to go from one note to another in a harmonious way. It needs to be nicely put together, it needs to be kind. To me, all of my fragrances are kind. Even when I do darker fragrances, they are velvety and smooth. I don’t do anything harsh.

What accomplishments are you proudest of so far?

I have many accomplishments I’m proud of. Part of my personality is that I’m always very curious, and I’ll always try to find a new solution of any problem. But in terms of fragrances, I’m very proud of Tommy Girl. I’m proud of what J’Adore has done on the market, but I think Tommy Girl was more of a breakthrough fragrance. I’m proud of the fragrances I’ve done for Kilian, because they don’t look like anything else. But there are also things I’m less proud of. I have done some flops, too.

What are the most important lessons you can teach as an educator?

What I’m looking for is people who love the product above everything, above the glamour of being a perfumer. I teach them to train their brain, because their brain will be their worst enemy. It’s very easy to jump to conclusions, to imagine that you have smelled something, to imagine someone told you something. You need to always take a step back. I teach them what’s called metacognition. You have to ask yourself so many questions as you work. We have limits to what we perceive, and we perceive things under a certain context. For instance, if you go in a room that is normally bright but you come from outside in the sun, the room is very dark; but the same room, if you come from the cellar where it was dark, you’ll find it very bright. It’s the same when working with scents; you always have to contextualize what you’re doing. When you smell something, to be true to what it is, you have to think of what you have smelled before, the environment, how do you feel at this time? Did you get coffee beforehand? These things make a huge difference.  

What do you find most interesting about perfumery?

I’m learning something every day. I’m not that type of teacher who gives something to students to do that I know the result. I’m learning with them, which I think is fantastic. Right now we’re working on a yellow orris. The smell is amazing, and I’m breaking my teeth, trying to find what’s inside it with them. I think that what drives me is curiosity. I need to learn something new every day to have a fulfilled day.

What scents do you dream of that you have not yet captured?

I’m not the only perfumer saying this, but it’s true that it’s very difficult to capture the beauty of the honeysuckle. It’s a little bit like magnolia. It’s very refined, you have to be very close to smell, but even from afar, you can smell it with the same intensity. It fills the air, it creates a trail, but with something very delicate.

What are some of the inspirations that you draw from when you’re creating?

Everything! First, other artists. I look at how artists work, how they transform something from another media, how they trickle down, how they trickly up, how they think. Looking at artists, creators, authors, musicians, inspires me a lot. For instance, one day I was at The Hermitage looking at the Dutch painters of the 17^th century, those black paintings with the flowers that are quite bright. I thought, I can’t have a bouquet like that because none of those flowers grow together in the same season. I understood that they work separately with the flowers, the painters. They don’t draw a bouquet with everything together, they go one by one. With J’Adore, that was the way I worked. I worked on each flower separately and I put them together in a way that they don’t overlap.

How has the fragrance industry changed?

Everything has gotten much more technical, much faster, much more ethical, much more sustainable. There is a huge consciousness of what we are doing, what we are using, and that is totally new. When you use something, you are responsible for its safety. You know where the ingredients are coming from, and you know they’re ethical. That has been a huge shift. And the speed. Now, AI is coming as well. It can be a help or it can be a threat. It can take over many cumbersome tasks, but maybe some people are very comfortable to keep doing those tasks and they don’t want the computer to take over. I think it’s not special to perfumery, it’s something you can see across all industries. Everything changes.

June 2021

Though he may be humble about his impact, Philippe Benacin revolutionized the way that fragrances are licensed and distributed when he co-founded Interparfums in 1982. The hugely influential global company designs, produces, and distributes perfumes and cosmetics for such brands as Coach, Jimmy Choo, Lanvin, Montblanc, Montcler, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Kate Spade, among others, bringing them success and visibility in the fragrance world. Chairman and CEO Benacin, who is an avid musician and art collector, has been recognized with a Creative Audacity Prize awarded by French Prime Minister Francois Fillon in 2011 and now he has won the coveted Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame Award for 2021. To mark this milestone, he reflects on his career and shares wisdom he has learned along the way.

How does it feel to be named the Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame honoree?

It is a great honor. I was only once at the presentation in New York and it was when Tom Ford was awarded – it was gorgeous. This time it has to be virtual but that’s ok. It’s very nice to get it no matter what.

You have so many interests. What started you down the path to the business of perfume?

People often ask me if fragrance was something I was always interested in, and I say no. I was not into fragrance at all, and my family has no link to perfumery. It so happens that when Jean [Madar, the Interparfums co-founder] and I finished business school we started a smaller company doing market surveys, and we met a French fashion company that wanted to launch a fragrance. That was the starting point. We did the market survey of the competition, but after a year of work with the CEO of that company he proposed that we develop and continue to work, physically, with the fragrance. This is how we moved, step by step, from market surveys to fragrances. We did market surveys for about two years, and it was something that I personally didn’t like at all, so it was a good point to meet this gentleman, and start in fragrance, which is much less abstract. Scent was very interesting to me, from a creative development point of view, from a supply chain point of view, and from a market point of view. When you look at the fragrance business, it’s very large. It’s very vertical. You meet people who are very different according to which segment they work in. And I have found that it’s a really nice world.

What do you consider to be your greatest contribution to the perfume industry?

I don’t want to be pretentious. I think the perfume world would have gone the same way if we were not there. But what we think we’ve done well is we’ve come to understand all of the segments of the luxury business and we have become very good at translating a brand DNA into fragrance, into product, into communication. I have the impression that we’re good at that, when you compare us to our competitors.

What have been the turning points for Interparfums?

The turning point for sure was 1993, when we signed Burberry. There had been two licensees before but neither was successful. When we signed the contract the business was almost at zero, but we created different fragrances starting in 1995, and after three or four years they were very significant in terms of sales.  I remember in year three we were at 160 million French francs. It changed completely the size of the company and also the strategy. So, 1993 was very important. And then 2013, exactly 20 years after, when Burberry decided to integrate their business. At that time, we lost 50 percent of our scents, but we knew ahead of time and could reshape our brand portfolio. I hope that 2020 will be a key date in the future, because we signed the Montcler license in 2020. But I cannot tell you now – ask me again in two years, and I will be able to tell you whether it was a success or not.

What are the keys of success that you can teach to others?

In luxury fragrance, I would say attention to detail is the most important thing. Attention to the client and to the product and to the brand.

How have you seen the fragrance business change?

Two things. In terms of retail, when you look at France and then the USA, when you look at the markets 30 years ago, you had many different retailers everywhere. Today it is no longer like that. In France you have three retailers who have 80 percent of the business. In the USA it is the same, with Macy’s doing not far from 50 percent. That’s a key point. And secondly the fact that the most powerful brands are more and more powerful. There are probably 10 companies doing most business around the world. Which means that when you launch a brand, if you don’t achieve certain figures, you are going to be out. You have to be successful. It’s no longer possible to be just ok – either you win or you lose, no middle ground.

How does close work with perfumers enhance your role?

We work with perfumers directly. When we start working – with Givaudan or Firmenich or IFF or whichever company – we give them a brief and they come back with different creations, but we don’t know who creates what. If we select three or four fragrances, different mods, then we go to the perfumer at the second stage, and in general we work with the perfumer directly until the finalization. We have a lot of possibilities – because we don’t just work with one or two perfumers, or all of the perfumers of the company. It happens often that we select a fragrance that is from a perfumer we don’t know yet. For instance the next Lanvin will be from an American perfumer, Mackenzie Reilly, from IFF. There was no specific link with her, but we liked very much the fragrance she gave us.

You have said the 200 women of Interparfums are very important. How so?

It is an industry that is very feminine. When you hire someone in France in this industry, you have more women than men. It happens that our company is 70 percent women. I fight to hire men! We have women and women and women. They are all very talented, and it works super well. They are faithful, and probably more conscientious than men.

What is the best advice you have received?

Again, I think it’s about attention to detail. In 1995, 1996, I met the CEO of Clarins and we happened to become friends. We spent hours talking about the industry, and he gave me so much good advice at that time, but on a friendly basis. Like pay attention to details, don’t go with too many creations – I can’t remember everything, but it was such a nice moment. That is why I asked him to join our board after he left Clarins.

What are your predictions for the future of the fragrance industry?

I have the impression that it will not change so much, because it has changed so much already. We will of course find newcomers – there will be newcomers on the brand level, the supply chain level, the retail level, of course – but I think that all of the key elements are there. I am talking in the next 5 to 10 years, not 50 years, because that you can never know.

June 2021

Arquiste Parfumeur – Carlos Huber

What was the creative/historical starting point for this fragrance?

The history of how patchouli arrived to European noses (via Kashmiri shawls) and its association and evolution with social changes of the 19th century. Patchouli first became the scent of misfits and counter-culture as the use of these shawls descended from the well-off classes to bohemians and courtesans . 

Were there challenges in striking the desired balance between elegance and decadence in the scent?

Yes, like misfits, the scent of patchouli is preceded by its reputation, and our goal was to turn this on its head.  Misfit is centered on the idea of things to go in and out of fashion… of fads that go from the mainstream to the fringes of society, and from the outside back in. Of making the undesirable desirable again. Instead of following a trend, being a misfit and reclaiming the elegance of patchouli.

What emotion or sensation do you want it to spark for those who smell it?

An enveloping sense of self…of individuality that doesn’t need to sacrifice elegance in order to stand out and declare its non-conformity. It’s a scent for every gender, every skin type, and every season because it celebrates both softness and assertiveness. 

How does your relationship with Rodrigo Flores-Roux enhance Arquiste, and what did he specifically bring to this scent?

Rodrigo has an emotional understanding of my creativity. He gets my ideas on storytelling and historical connection and in the feelings and sensations that I seek to provoke with a scent. He is an artist that creates new accords with seemingly disparate raw materials. He also sees perfume as an affirmation of life…as a tonic to the void that is loss. His perfumes have color and texture and give dimension to the stories I tell. 

Reaching the Finalist level for the Indie Fragrance of the Year is a big accomplishment, what does it mean to you?

This is my third Fragrance Foundation nomination in my career in fragrance and it’s a huge honor. Misfit falls exactly on my 10 year anniversary with ARQUISTE. It reaffirms my passion in meaningful and intelligent fragrance development.

D.S. & Durga – David Moltz

What was the original spark of inspiration for Jazmin Yucatan?

A trip into the interior of the Yucatan, driving through dense humid jungle en route to Coba. One feels a parallel with an inward journey as they reach such a center of ancient civilization. The jazmin yucateco growing wild smells powdery and animalic which juxtaposes with jungle dew and crocodile filled cenotes.

Working with such unique ingredients – including copal and snakeplant – were there any challenges you faced in the fragrance’s creation?

I own a snakeplant, so am quite familiar with its aroma.  The accord is built around fresh green notes and ginger which marries well with jasmine.  Copal is a wonderful base note that I use all the time and screams of the Yucatan. The main challenge was capturing a realistic jazmin flower blooming in humid air.

What is your favorite aspect of this scent?

 The realism of the jasmine. The harmony between green, water, powder, flower, fruit, and vetyver.

What sensory effect did you want it to have on those who smell it? 

I want people to be brought in their minds to an uplifting place – the humid interior of the Yucatan, and also to take an everyday mental vacation (which was particularly important last year).

Reaching the Finalist level for the Indie Fragrance of the Year is a big accomplishment, what does it mean to you?

We are always honored to be considered for our work. It says something about the state of fragrance that a small company like ours could be recognized among giants. Thank you!

Floral Street – Michelle Feeney

What was the inspiration behind Arizona Bloom?

My initial inspiration for Arizona Bloom came a few years ago as I was flying over the desert from LA to NYC – I was taken with the intense colour and it was so vast! A year later I visited the Atacama Desert in Chile with my family.  It’s the driest desert in the world, and we hiked through salt lakes and cactus valleys, all at high altitude under clear blue skies.  This dry, high environment where earth and sky meet was so freeing to the spirit that I literally wanted to bottle it!

What emotion or sensation do you want it to spark for those who smell it?

Arizona Bloom is a scent that is grounded in the wonder of nature for when you are feeling sunny, euphoric, nomadic and free-spirited. It’s a fragrance that really ‘takes you away’ from our tech-heavy world, capturing a feeling of total freedom and high octane living.  It stimulates your mood, reconnecting you with its combination of ingredients and crystallized musks, which give a warmed skin sensation and a surprise element to the scent.

What is its place within the Floral Street family?

Arizona Bloom is our 10^th fragrance and our most successful launch to date. It’s a dry, floral amber scent that opens up a new fragrance category for us within our floral portfolio.

What pleases you most about the way that it has been received?

We took a risk by launching it digitally during the height of lock down in the pandemic but the response from e-tailers, retailers and consumers has been incredible. It was a true marrying of my personal inspiration with the skill and expertise of our scent superstar, Jerome Epinette. What has surprised and delighted me personally is that it has been loved by everyone, it’s truly a gender-neutral fragrance.   

Reaching the Finalist level for the Indie Fragrance of the Year is a big accomplishment, what does it mean to you?

As the Founder of an independent, British brand, this is, for me, is the highest accolade Floral Street could achieve. Even being a finalist for us is amazing. If we win it gives us such a credible accreditation in an industry packed full of talent. 

Shalini Parfum – Shalini

What unique properties of iris made you want to create a fragrance devoted to it? 

I have always loved the many colors of irises. I find it magical that Iris flowers are named after the Goddess Iris. Iris Lumière captures the cold silvery beauty of orris butter with all the nuances of its watery green nature. There is a longevity and delicacy to orris butter that is very haunting.

I felt an internal direction to create two fragrances as the twin lights of creation – Golden and Silver lights.  Iris Lumière, the fifth parfum in our Collection, is the Silver light of Iris and the twin to our fourth parfum, Paradis Provence — the Golden light of Thyme. Both parfums carry the cosmic energy of the Sun and the Moon.

My vision for Shalini Parfum is to return to the historical value of perfume – healing and prayer. 

How do you want people to feel when they wear or smell this fragrance? 

There is a cold essence to iris, almost like camellias in the wintertime.  The beauty and fragrance in the cold warms your heart. I desired Iris Lumière to capture the lunar energy of the Full moon and feel watery like the ocean and waves which feel the energetic pull of the moon — the tides as the water rises to the moon.  Iris Lumière evokes the feeling of swimming naked in the sea under the moonlight with the water caressing your skin creating a sense of peace for the soul.

How does your close relationship with perfumer Maurice Roucel enhance Shalini creations, and what did he specifically bring to Iris Lumiere? 

Maurice is a great lover of Iris. We both agreed that the parfum should capture the watery elements of Iris to reflect the lunar energy of the Moon.  It was a very innovative approach to Iris which is usually treated as a powdery element. He understood on an intuitive level what I yearned to create for Iris Lumière, the fifth parfum in this series inspired by the moods and passions of the soul. Usually, I compose a poem for Maurice to bring him into the creative space I am in. He has complete freedom to use the purest naturals to compose his poem.  It is like two artists creating together – a duet. We have a unique synergy as creators.

Shalini Parfum is the only complete collection that Maurice has created during his illustrious career.  

What pleases you most about the way that it has been received?

Created as the Silver light of peace and self-acceptance and launched last year during a time when the world needed peace, it is very rewarding to see how clients have embraced Iris Lumière. It touched our clients at a deep soulful level and became a much-loved parfum almost immediately. We received many heartfelt messages from clients telling us how it helped them during the pandemic and how they desired to be immersed daily in the healing energy of Iris Lumière. As an artist, it is the most precious compliment to bring joy and pleasure to people.

Reaching the Finalist level for the Indie Fragrance of the Year is a big accomplishment, what does it mean to you?

I am truly grateful to have this tremendous honor bestowed upon Iris Lumière.  Being a Finalist reinforces our parfums’ position as Modern Masterpieces that transcend time.

As an Indie parfum creator, I greatly appreciate the recognition of the fragrance industry.  The Fragrance Foundation is very supportive of my vision and it has meant a lot to me personally.

Being a finalist also introduces the beautiful energy of our parfums to a worldwide audience.

St.Rose – Belinda Smith

What was the original idea behind the creation of Vigilante?  

The name Vigilante comes from the latin “To be wide awake” and the inspiration for this bold new fragrance was actually from witnessing the unconquerable human spirit of brave individuals across my native Australia, who rose up to fight the devastating bushfires that took hold in late 2019 and continued to catastrophic proportions in early 2020.

As we were working on this fragrance development through 2020, an unprecedented year with profound revelations unfolding across the world stage, it has been that same power of quiet resistance and of mavericks working to change the status quo, bringing with them hope and optimism, that influenced the essence of our Vigilante.

Are there challenges to working with upcycled and natural ingredients, specifically for this scent?

 Being a clean and transparent brand we already present technical challenges for our perfumers before our push for using only sustainably sourced ingredients of the highest quality. That is truly why we are so proud of our partnership with Givaudan who share our commitment to creating in harmony with nature. Linda Song, the incredible perfumer who is the nose behind this composition was inspired to work with upcycled Cedarwood Atlas which fit so beautifully into the creative direction. At first I was concerned that since many of these materials are created from already distilled materials that there would be a diluted quality to them but it’s exactly the opposite. Instead the aroma is entirely unique and makes certain facets more intense which is an amazing way to intentionally influence a composition into a certain direction. 

To quote Linda, by repurposing what some might discard as waste, we are using the forgotten material to create added value and to explore new olfactive dimension–bringing unique notes to a perfumer’s palette. In the upcycled rose in Vigilante, it’s about introducing a modern, fresh rose nuance to the floralcy and the upcycled cedarwood Atlas, which is a more intense and fruity version of the Atlas cedarwood without the animalic overtones allowing it to be used more fluidly between both masculine and feminine fragrances.

What effect did you want Vigilante to have on those who smell it?

 Intrinsic to the ritual of wearing fine fragrance is that it makes us feel good, confident, sexy … but more than anything I hope with Vigilante that there is a feeling of empowerment as well. It’s a scent that was certainly inspired by a rebellious energy and I think we really infused that sentiment into the final essence. I’ve always loved a bit of a quiet rebel, those who in their tireless pursuits continue to push against the grain. That unconquerable spirit is inspiring and contagious. Of all the mavericks I adore, it’s the artists who don’t just paint, compose, or write what they see, but rather what they wish the world to see; who are my favorite type of renegade. In their finished works we share a common experience and that sentiment of oneness is something I hope we all wake up to, … may art inspire the way.

How does Vigilante express ST. ROSE aesthetic and ethos? My desire for this composition was really to be an artistic call to arms, one that pushes boundaries for clean beauty and luxury fragrance. At. ST. ROSE,  our greatest aspiration is to make this planet more conscious for all humankind and what better art form than fragrance, drawing from the Earth’s most alluring aromatic materials, to inspire a deeper connection between self and nature. Creating with smart transparency from a palette of environmentally friendly ingredients we hope to make the artistic intention behind Vigilante that much more inspiring.

 Reaching the Finalist level for the Indie Fragrance of the Year is a big accomplishment, what does it mean to you?

 It is truly such a dream. To be recognized alongside such a gorgeous company of finalists is an incredible honor. Choosing to take the path less travelled and make choices as a young brand that often presents more challenges and takes more of an investment is not always easy. To be recognized for that effort is so validating and also incredibly invigorating, knowing our efforts are championed. From the entire team at ST. ROSE, I am so thankful to The Fragrance Foundation.

June 2021

This June issue of Accords includes insightful one-on-one interviews with the 2021 TFF Awards honorees whom we just celebrated: Calice Becker, Lifetime Achievement Perfumer and Philippe Benacin, Hall of Fame. Please get to know these Honorees in addition to viewing their TFF Awards videos on our website here.

In addition, we conducted a Q&A exchange prior to the winner announcement on June 10th with the finalists in the very special category Indie Fragrance of the Year. As 2020 brought challenges to all in the world, reaching Finalist status for these 5 brand creators in such an exceptional year clearly indicates not just what the specific finalist fragrance achieved, but that the overall brand portfolio is positioned for ongoing success in the years to follow. This category is judged by anonymous fragrance experts on many aspects of the fragrance itself and its direct communication to consumers. 

The winner was just announced a few days ago: MISFIT Arquiste Parfumeur!

As in the Olympics, only one contender can win and is certainly the winner. However, as many know I am consistently communicating that Finalists are all to be celebrated, not just winners. So for this year and particularly in this category, it is even more important to celebrate the positivity of this achievement and applaud these Finalists as they are not competitors from the TFF perspective, but undeniably winning brands going forward. I have had the privilege, along with the TFF team, to get to know them and have to applaud these Finalists and all our valued Indie fragrance brands.

Please accept our deep gratitude to the thousands who joined us virtually for The Fragrance Foundation Awards to celebrate with us as a global community! 

You may replay the entire exciting Awards available on our website or view each separate category which includes the experience from the star presenter to the announcement of the winner and their acceptance, here.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

May 2021

For this edition of ACCORDS, the Fragrance Foundation reached out to retailers to get their perspective on how the fragrance market has changed, and how it has been in many ways revolutionized by the pandemic. As we enter a new era, how have our shopping habits transformed and how will we continue to fortify ourselves with fragrance moving forward? No one has a closer eye on the consumer than those who watched and learned as their companies navigated the past year.

“Throughout the pandemic, we saw our customers responding to fragrances,” says Julie Walsh, VP, Divisional Business Manager, Fragrances, at Macy’s Inc. “Scent is powerful.  It reminds you of people and places. It makes you happy and brings you comfort. We all needed that this past year!” Elizabeth Miller, VP, Divisional Merchandise Manager for Cosmetics at Bloomingdale’s agrees that this is why the fragrance business showed so much success in 2020. “Smell is the sense most closely linked to memory. In a time where we are all longing for normalcy, it follows that we would look to scents that call back some of our favorite times, whether it’s a wedding day, a special vacation, or another memorable moment. In the past year, our Bloomingdale’s customers shifted from spending on experiences to investing in ‘little luxuries,’ including home and personal fragrance that bring a sense of comfort.”

Retailers pivoted to meet both a surge in demand and the shift to digital that the pandemic necessitated. “We had to think of how to engage the customer digitally, creating compelling content to keep her engaged, connected and excited to come back to hear the story around our fragrances in store, and how to ensure safety through touchless scented sampling,” says Mark Knitowski, VP, Product Development Innovation & Fragrance at Victoria’s Secret Beauty. “Our customers voted for collection fragrances, layering of scents and body products as well as candles and home fragrance,” says Gemma Lionello, EVP, GMM Beauty & Accessories, Nordstrom. “Our team did a great job connecting with our customers through digital events and digital master classes that were very well received. Our customers were able to learn about scent layering and finding new favorites with special event kits that our teams sent to their home. Sampling continued to be one of our core service values and our customers enjoyed being able to try several scents before they decided what to buy.”

All agree that the upswing in fragrance sales, as well as the agility of both retailers and consumers who will be excited to shop for their next scent both online and in store, will continue into the future. “While we anticipate our customer getting back to spending on travel and experiences, we believe the future of fragrance is bright,” says Elizabeth Miller, VP, DMM for Cosmetics at Bloomingdale’s. “Luxury continues to grow exponentially, as does our customer’s appetite for investing in quality items like luxury fragrances. We see the focus on pillar/hero fragrances within lines, while also evolving to include new formats and formulations of our customer’s favorite fragrances. As more shoppers return to our Bloomingdale’s stores, we see a return to in-store activations that our customer craves, and finally, utilizing technology to enhance the customer’s experience.” The key, says Knitowski is maintaining the gains. “We need to take this momentum we are seeing to catapult the category onward.  The customer sees fragrance as special again, we need to hold her attention and think forward to what she wants next.”

“The respect and trust our teams have with our brand partners continues to lay the foundation for success,” says Penny Coy, VP Merchandising, Fragrance at Ulta Beauty. “Our guests have reacted so positively to the many partnerships around new launches, exclusives and  spotlights on legacy.” As for the future? Coy sums up the retailers’ positive consensus perfectly. “We are very optimistic for the category to continue on its trajectory,” she says. “Our fragrance team mantra is “Can’t stop, won’t stop!”

May 2021

Video Interview – Click HERE To Watch!

The NPD Group is one of the world’s largest market research companies. This week, Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy joined Larissa Jensen, Vice President, Industry Advisor, Beauty, The NPD Group for a wide-reaching and optimistic conversation about the state of the fragrance industry.

Highlights from the discussion centered around consumer behavior during the COVID-19 pandemic, and how much of the change in purchasing priorities and patterns is expected to endure as the world returns to offices, travel, and social interaction.

The pair kicked off by talking about the incredibly strong performance and momentum that fragrance has shown in retail over the past year. Consumers have been purchasing higher ticket items such as larger sizes, high-concentration juices, and luxury brands throughout the pandemic. Remarkably, this has happened despite the shift to online purchasing. “I never thought that fragrance could be soaring the way that it is considering the pandemic where  the vast majority of sales are done online,” Levy says, predicting that even though brick-and-mortar will always be important to perfume purchasers, the shift to digital will continue to be substantial as a percent to total now that consumers are comfortable maneuvering in that space.

Home fragrances became incredibly important during the pandemic, as people rediscovered how scent can enhance an atmosphere and lift a mood. The category diversified, with candles, diffusers, and plug-ins becoming an essential part of creating a home sanctuary—and the market exploded. Similarly, fragrance came to be regarded as self-care, a beauty and wellness accessory that helps everyone feel good. Because the sense of smell is so intertwined with memory and emotion, consumers found that scent could provide them with an important sense of escape.

“In many ways we believe that fragrance has become the new lipstick index,” Jensen says, noting that an NPD survey showed that the number one reason people have been purchasing fragrance—at 50 percent of those who responded—is as a treat for themselves. Fragrance is an affordable indulgence, and, she says, “It really has become a luxury that people are buying for themselves.”

Not that they aren’t buying it for others as well. Holiday was a huge moment for fragrance in 2020, and Mother’s Day 2021 saw fragrance sales soar. According to NPD, 19% of Mother’s Day gift buyers purchased fragrance, double the rate of other beauty categories. During the two weeks leading up to Mother’s Day, fragrance sales posted a remarkable 33 percent growth rate over 2019. Levy points out that rose scents and florals in general were wildly popular, as well as categories such as candles, perfume oils, and hair mists. She predicts that “bridal registry is the new holiday,” now that people are gathering for events and celebrations and will want to share their love of fragrance.

Consumers have clearly awakened to a newly powerful love for fragrance. “Pre-pandemic, people looked at it as frivolous,” says Levy, “but now it is seen as important, part of their personality and how they feel every day.” She predicts that growth will continue as the market recovers overall. Ultimately, “it’s about understanding market dynamics and the consumer behavioral shifts,” says Jensen. “And companies that are able to do that are really going to win in the end.”

May 2021

Ralf Schwieger, MANE

Bukhara by Gallivant

What were the inspirations you drew upon when creating Bukhara?

Bukhara is a city on the Silk Road with a long history of culture and trade. The scent is dedicated to the majesty of the orris flower: the vast dark blue skies, arid landscape and architectural elements like the vibrant tiles used to decorate the mosques stand in for the colors of the flower, and spices representing the ancient trade are woven into a radiant latticework.

How do you want someone to feel when they smell the scent?

Elegance and transparency are two lodestars ruling my work –  I dislike heavy and cloying fragrances and those where you only smell single raw materials in the trail. I hope that I somewhat accomplished that mission if the person who wears the fragrance  feels the luminosity I tried to infuse in this scent.  

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

The Perfume Extraordinaire is chosen by an industry panel of experts – perfumers, evaluators and marketers who criticize, praise and judge scents on a daily basis. The fact that Bukhara made it to the finalists’ stage fills me with joy, knowing that only the scent and not the brand or packaging determined the choice.

Florie Tanquerel, Cosmo International Fragrance

Garden of Grace 

What was your starting point for Garden of Grace ?

When I received the brief from Sarah Horowitz, you can only imagine how excited I was! We worked closely with her to make her vision come to life in creating the smell of the “perfect rose” grown in the Rose Grace Farm located in Santa Inez, California. Growing up in the South of France, close to Grasse, the kingdom of the Rose Centifolia, I have a very special connection to the scent of roses.  This was my starting point in creating Garden of Grace.

 What specific effects did you want to achieve with this scent?

I knew I wanted to use our exclusive natural ingredient, the Rose Craftivity®, which is extracted through a green process in our plant in the South of France. This ingredient really captures the purest and most natural impression of a rose field in full bloom. I wanted to reflect a mix of modernity and sophistication while revealing the petally texture and pastel colors exclusive to the roses of Grace Rose Farm, so I combined other fluffy floral notes such as peony and Moroccan orris. Inspired by the California landscapes,  I also incorporated fresh marine notes and fruity vineyard grapes while rounding out the fragrance with a bit of soft cashmere woods and musk.

 What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

All I can say is…Wow! Cosmo International Fragrances and I are very proud and more than happy to have been picked among the other amazing fragrances by the industry.  For me, it means that we have accomplished great success with this fragrance.  It is already a true honor for us to be nominated this year and it really was a great collaborative effort across the globe, from Miami, Los Angeles to the South of France!

Alberto Morillas, Firmenich

Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden Hortus Sanitatis 

What is unique about your collaboration process with Alessandro Michele?

Each time I get to work with Alessandro Michele, he seems to bring out a new facet of my own personality, or a curiosity that I didn’t know existed. He’s a fascinating individual, with a totally unique vision, and he has a way of bringing you into his world, so that you become part of the tapestry of what he’s building. I’ve had the pleasure of co-creating with Alessandro since 2017, and during this time we’ve collaborated on nearly thirty different Gucci fragrances. Ultimately, we’ve developed our own unique ‘language’ and way of communicating. It’s a very special and direct relationship that exists between myself and Mr. Michele, and it’s important that I understand his perspective so that I can create fragrances that mirror his aesthetic and the vision he has for the brand.  There is a certain amount of trust between us, and I have a keen sense of Alessandro’s expectations even before I begin developing usually. Mr. Michele knows exactly what he likes, and subsequently what he doesn’t like, and his feedback is invaluable to me during the process of formula creation. We are very in-tune with each other, and the chemistry between us at a creative level is one of the most fulfilling and enjoyable parts of working with him.

What were the inspirations behind Hortus Sanitatis?

Hortus Sanitatis, which is the Latin name for ‘Garden of Health’, is named after one of the first natural history encyclopedias published in the 15th century. Interestingly, Gucci had already published a tome under the same name with English photographer Derek Ridgers, who shot their Pre-Fall 2017 collection. This collection (and specific fragrance) was inspired by the art of alchemy and the concept of layering, to be able to customize fragrance combinations to create an utterly unique and personalized scent. I used notes of premium quality papyrus and cedarwood to showcase timeless elegance, imbued with a smoky quality. During the creation process of Hortus Sanitatis, I imagined rows of old glass flacons sitting on the wooden shelves of an antique apothecary, with recently brewed strange and mythical fumes wafting throughout the space. There’s a rare strand of intoxicating darkness that runs through this perfume, with musky undertones that remind me of journeying to a pool of undiscovered water in a remote cave, the ebb and flow of waves marrying the essence of life and freshness with depth and shadows.

 What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

I’m truly honored to be a nominee. This award is one of the most coveted and renowned for perfumers worldwide. I feel extremely privileged to be in the company of many other esteemed perfumers, and humbled that my life’s work is recognized as a distinguished body of thoughtful fragrances. Ultimately, the greatest pleasure I take is knowing that for every perfume I’ve crafted, I’ve imparted a bit of my soul into the creation, and I’m able to touch the hearts and minds of millions of people in this way.

Philippe Paparella, Symrise

Memo Retba 

How did you translate the idea of Lake Retba into scent?

Retba was initially intended for the Middle East market. My primary idea was to play with an addictive amber and stay away from the Rose/Oud cliché. I started with an accord made of our Ambre 84 DeLaire base, Vanilla Absolute from Madagascar, and some red fruit notes as a reference to the Lake’s colors. Then I facetted this accord with spices (Cardamom, Pink Pepper, Ginger & Cinnamon from Madagascar) and woods to bring more sophistication. The result is an opulent ambery scent.

What emotions would you like the fragrance to evoke?

I want Retba to intrigue the consumer and take them to remote places. I like this quote from Yves Saint Laurent, who once said:  “I use my imagination to conjure up countries I don’t know. I hate to travel. For example, if I read a book about the Indies with photos or about Egypt, where I’ve never been, my imagination takes me there. That’s how I take my best trips.” As most of us have been unable to travel due to Covid-19, I’d like to think that this creation can transport us somewhere else with the strong evocative power of fragrances. And that’s what Memo is about.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

I have always admired Dave Apel and Emilie Coppermann’s creativity, so being nominated in the same category as them is such an honor. It would be amazing to follow in their footsteps. Thanks to my colleague Alienor Massenet, I had a chance to fulfill my passion and work in tandem on niche perfumes for Hermetica, Memo, and a few other brands. I owe this nomination to her for being an inspiration and role model over the past few years.

Pascal Gaurin, IFF

Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac 

What effect did you want to achieve with this scent?

Brands are always a reflection of their creators. Scents of Woods reflects Fabrice Croise’s love for nature and uncompromising stand for creativity and luxury.  With Fabrice, we are both astonished by the endless power of trees, these majestic living organisms have been our silent companions since the beginning of humanity. We also share the same fascination for wood as a living material and its infinite transformative power when it interacts with human imagination. Wood as a raw living material has yielded us the most beautiful human creations on earth whether it be a sculpture, an architectural masterpiece, or a luxury fragrance.

Plum in Cognac is at the confluence of my childhood memories and my constant quest for sensuality in perfumery. With this fragrance, my desire was to convey the memories of a voluptuous purple Plum ripe with life, also known as Quetsche d’Alsace, combined with the dense woody and resinous essence escaping from the dark forests of my childhood.

What challenges did you encounter in its creation?

My first challenge was to preserve the woody signature which is at the core of Scents of Wood’s brand DNA while magnifying it with a sensual and decadent element. It’s where this luscious purple Plum enveloped in a thrill of dark Rum comes into play. The decadent blend of this juicy fruit dripping in voluptuous dark Rum brings this deep sensual purple effect to the wood. 

My second challenge came from the brand’s unique creative process, the organic alcohol was aged in a vintage Cognac Barrel. Throughout the creation process, I had to make sure the scent will perfectly marry with this aged alcohol and will reveal all the olfactive complexity of Aged Cognac Wood.  

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

Working on Scents of Wood has been a beautiful journey and it’s especially incredible to see Plum in Cognac nominated in the Perfumer Extraordinaire category only 9 months after the brand was launched. At a time when the number of fragrance launches is hitting a record high, seeing Plum in Cognac being recognized for its creativity and uniqueness is also the most beautiful reward I could have wished for.

May 2021

This holiday weekend, when we pay tribute on Memorial Day to honor and remember our Veterans who sacrificed their lives in the military. We also kick off  the summer season officially. For both of these significant occasions, we are filled with gratitude and cautious optimism, as the world moves forward. We are emerging more resilient and going forward, into the “new normal”.

In this May Accords, we feature discussions of the past and the future of the pandemic impact at retail, for consumers and fragrance creativity. The insights in this issue cover a broad range of perspectives but share common themes from Retailers, NPD, and Perfumer  Finalists in the Perfume Extraordinaire category for the TFF Awards.

All of us at TFF look forward to all of the global fragrance community joining us at our big TFF Awards event on June 10th. We will celebrate fragrance creativity, our passion for fragrance, honor Calice Becker, Vice President Perfumer & Director of the Givaudan Perfumery School with the Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award; and Philippe Benacin, Chairman and CEO Interparfums, with the Hall of Fame Award; as well as announce all 2021 TFF Awards winners.

At the event, Louie Schwartzberg, award winning visual artist and filmmaker, who is TFF’s collaborative creative force in 2021, will share his inspiration for the magnificent films he creates of nature & humankind. 

The webinar is free to the fragrance global audience, and open to anyone who registers to join the awards presentation. Please register here.  See you June 10th with Dolly Parton, Alicia Keys, Kylie Minogue, Isabella Rossellini, Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Thom Browne, André Leon Talley, and Christian Siriano!

Happy Memorial Day weekend!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

April 2021

Laura Slatkin, the unmistakable and famously gracious woman behind NEST Fragrances, co-founded NEXT for AUTISM in 2003, and has since worked tirelessly to build the non-profit into a potent force for change. Whether through medical care, education, or community support, the organization has improved the lives of those affected by autism in countless ways. Iconic fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger, who has collaborated with his friend Laura and her husband Harry Slatkin on events and projects raising money for autism research and awareness, has also joined the NEXT for AUTISM Board. Together, they have big plans for the future—including NEXT for AUTISM’s continued partnership with the Fragrance Foundation’s Give Back program—which they share with ACCORDS in this month’s special edition.

April has traditionally been Autism Awareness Month. What has changed for 2021?

Laura Slatkin:

This April is different than in past years when it comes to autism. NEXT for AUTISM and our colleagues across the disability community are formally calling for a change to the terminology we use to recognize this month, moving away from the previous moniker of “Autism Awareness Month,” to the more relevant and meaningful “Autism Acceptance Month.” As the prevalence for autism mounted in the 90’s it was critical to raise awareness, advance the field and make progress. Now that we have seen progress in these areas it’s time to focus on accepting individuals with autism and integrating them into the community. Autism Acceptance Month signifies a necessary evolution in expecting a deeper understanding, value, and inclusion of individuals with autism in society.

Tommy, what motivated you to join the NEXT for AUTISM Board?

Tommy Hilfiger: 

Autism is very dear to my heart and I want to do my part to ensure that the more than 5.4 million adults on the autism spectrum have the support they need to have active, productive, fulfilling lives as adults, without boundaries or barriers to live out their dreams. That’s what NEXT for AUTISM is all about. They are a highly focused team of doers. NEXT for AUTISM is always challenging the status quo, leading the charge to make the world a better, more inclusive, and more equitable place.  

What do you admire most about what NEXT for AUTISM has achieved so far?

Tommy Hilfiger:

NEXT for AUTISM is always pushing boundaries and advancing innovative programs for individuals on the spectrum and their families. They launched two charter schools for students on the spectrum in Harlem and the Bronx, started a training course for educators and professionals with Hunter College and opened a clinical center with NewYork-Presbyterian, Columbia and Cornell providing services across the lifespan, to name a few. They have a history of getting things done and impacting the autism community and I want to be a part of that.

What are the current initiatives for NEXT for AUTISM?

Laura Slatkin:

While the Center for Disease Control (CDC) has been collecting data and releasing information about the prevalence of autism in children for decades, 2020 marks the first time the CDC has reported on adults. There are more than 5.4 million adults living with autism in the U.S. and they deserve equity in the workforce, homes that are safe and welcoming, a rich social life–desirous life experiences for all adults.

NEXT for AUTISM wants to be part of the solution. We are dedicated to building resources and programs that are grounded in best practices, committed to system change and that both promote acceptance and truly move the needle for adults with autism. The goal is healthy quality life experiences within the home, community and social networks for adults on the spectrum. The team at NEXT for AUTISM is working hard to bring this vision into reality.

What are the specific NEXT for AUTISM initiatives for adults with autism? 

Laura Slatkin:

This year, we are embarking on several exciting efforts to quickly address some of the most pressing issues adults on the spectrum now face. Three of our most exciting initiatives are:

NEXT for NEIGHBORS: There are more than 800,000 Direct Support Professionals/staff (DSPs) working in the United States. The backbone of a quality supported living environment for an adult with autism are the professionals who work in those homes. NEXT for NEIGHBORS empowers DSPs by providing professional development, that inspires the delivery of quality support so adults with autism can thrive with improved communication, having choices and engaging in preferred activities in the community and much more. Presently we are piloting the NEXT for NEIGHBORS curriculum and training initiative with The Arc Westchester in New York and our goal is to fine tune this program, and develop comprehensive materials that can be disseminated and expand our reach nationwide.

NEXT for GOING OUT: There are more than 600,000 adults with autism and other developmental disabilities that are being served in day programs throughout the United States. NEXT 4 GOING OUT is an easy-to-use resource providing visual supports for adults with autism and the professionals supporting them that ensure that adults are going out into the community and engaging in programs that will enhance their lives and promote independence.

NEXT GEN CONNECT Mentorship is a well-established practice for supporting employment. NEXT GEN CONNECT is a peer mentorship program to improve acquisition and retention of employment for autistic adults.

What is your perspective on the third annual December event with the TFF and AARMY? How is this event growing? 

Laura Slatkin:

We are honored that The Fragrance Foundation has chosen to support NEXT for AUTISM by making our AARMY event an annual event. We are building momentum–the Fragrance community is getting to know us and the work we do, and we are building important relationships with TFF members. We value everyone’s willingness to partner, highly. This year we will brainstorm on how we can expand our reach to include more folks, particularly those that are affected by autism that work in the fragrance community—or know someone who is affected by autism. At NEXT we always say “Someone You Know Loves Someone With Autism.” 

Why is the ongoing relationship between TFF and NEXT for AUTISM is important?

Tommy Hilfiger:

The Fragrance Foundation and the fragrance community at large is a very dedicated, passionate group of individuals that also know how to get things done. For someone like myself and Laura and Harry, who have been deeply involved in the fragrance industry for decades it’s heartwarming to know that what is important to us is important to them. The ongoing relationship between NEXT and TFF is important because we all know that it takes time and momentum to build something important and meaningful. With the awareness and funds raised from TFF involvement we now have the opportunity to create lasting and impactful change for the autism community.

Laura Slatkin:

On a very personal level I feel so excited about having the opportunity to combine my two favorite passions in life, fragrance and philanthropy.

April 2021

Scientists at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia have been conducting groundbreaking research into how smell shapes our daily lives for more than 52 years. This work has perhaps never been so pressing and relevant as it is today, when so many individuals have lost their sense of smell due to COVID-19, and the Monell Chemical Senses Center has become a critical force in gaining greater understand of the mechanisms behind sudden smell loss, as well as building awareness with its Monell Smell For Life Project (https://monell.org/anosmia/).  The Fragrance Foundation welcomed experimental psychologist and Monell Center scientist Pamela Dalton, PhD, MPH, to share insights from her studies as part of Fragrance Day 2021, and in this month’s edition of ACCORDS she outlines not only why the olfactive system is so crucial to health and happiness but also how all of us can support the Monell Center’s mission.

How common is the loss of a sense of smell, and what are the primary causes?

Fortunately, prior to COVID-19, complete smell loss was relatively uncommon, although not unheard of.  Because we don’t regularly test smell ability, most data on the frequency of smell loss are estimates.  Probably the best ones are from the NHANES studies, where they found that ~12% of the population has a smell disorder and 3.2% are severely hyposmic or anosmic (total loss of smell).  Increasing age has always been a factor in smell loss.  Nasal-sinus disease, head trauma, upper respiratory viruses, neurodegenerative diseases (Alzheimer’s, Parkinsons) and toxic chemical exposures are all etiologies of smell loss, whether acute, persistent or permanent. 

What are some of the ways that it can affect a person beyond the direct consequence of not being able to smell?  

People who lose their ability to smell often feel disoriented in familiar environments and feel isolated in social relationships (spouses, children) because the odors that signal familiarity are missing.  Changes in eating behavior are also common—some people undereat and lose weight because food is no longer appetitive and some people overeat because they’re looking to regain the satisfaction that flavor (smell+taste) brought them. There is also a tendency to experience depression which may be due to reduced or absent input to the olfactory bulb (a part of the ‘emotional’ limbic system). People also worry about the inability to sense danger—from gas leaks, fires, spoiled food.  And they also worry about not being able to smell their own body odor and offend others. 

What are the current key studies Monell is conducting?

We have studies attempting to understand how well smell loss is predictive of COVID-19 infection; at present it appears to be a better and more specific indicator than fever (which can have many different causes).  We are using a test we recently developed called SCENTinel, that uses a single odorant but taps three different components of olfactory function:  detection, intensity and identification.  We also have an ongoing study of smell training in normal aging, to see if it can improve odor sensitivity.  Other studies that are conducted remotely are using the Monell Flavor Quiz- a 12 item sensory test that evaluates smell, taste and chemesthesis (cooling, warming). And other studies are attempting to understand how the molecular structure of a chemical can be used to predict odor quality and intensity.   

What have been the most significant findings so far regarding scent loss?  

Scent loss affects different people in different ways—but uniformly people report feeling like they’ve lost a very significant dimension of their everyday life.  We’ve never had an occurrence where so many people have lost their ability to smell in such a short span of time. Obviously we hope that what we learn about how the virus is affecting the olfactory system will lead to treatments and understanding for other types of post-viral smell loss. 

How can people participate in Monell research?

Several ways:  there are ongoing studies where people come into the Center to be tested, but we also have modified a number of studies so that people can participate in their home.  Either the samples are mailed to them or they come to the Center to pick up the samples.  In some cases, testing takes place while you’re on a Zoom call with the scientist at the Center, in other cases, you sample the stimuli yourself and respond on a computer or your cell phone.  Studies that are currently enrolling are posted on our web page:  https://monell.org/participate 

How does scent training work?  

The basic program is to choose four odorants—there are kits you can buy or you can choose your own scents—either essential oils you buy or scented objects you can find around your home (spices, fragranced lotions, soaps etc). Twice a day you should sit down with the odorants and smell each odorant—while trying to recall how you remember the odor experience—spending around 1 minute per odorant. The key is to do it consistently.  It can be frustrating (if no feedback initially) and a bit boring, but it is the only recommended therapy for post-viral smell loss that has been shown to restore the ability to smell better than the passage of time.  And it has no risks.

What should someone do if they begin to notice a deficiency in their sense of smell? 

 Because there can be multiple reasons why someone’s smell ability is changing, it is recommended that they try to get tested.  If a smell loss is confirmed, then it’s probably a good idea to talk to your doctor to investigate the potential health conditions that may have caused the smell loss.  They may recommend an ENT exam of the nose to rule out nasal sinus disease or they may identify a recent viral infection that may have caused lasting changes.  However, there is absolutely no reason not to start smell training at any point if you think your ability to smell is changing.

April 2021

Who could fail to be charmed by Mario Lopez? The multi-hyphenate entertainer, presenter, author, producer, and director brought his signature charisma to the Fragrance Foundation’s 2021 Awards Finalists live webinar on April 14th, impressing viewers with his passion for scent as well as his ambitious and productive work ethic. The two-time Emmy winner, star of Saved By The Bell, and host of NBC’s Access Hollywood, Access Daily, and All Access, also helms  a nationally syndicated radio show, “On With Mario,” and currently preparing to start pre-production for a documentary he will be directing for HBO (in addition to countless other projects).  Accords tracked him down on the set of his upcoming holiday film, currently filming in Santa Fe, to get his thoughts on the enduring magic of perfume and why he jumped at the chance to join the fragrance community.

What was it like for you to host the Fragrance Foundation Awards Finalists webinar?

I really enjoyed hosting the awards, especially because I love fragrances! To meet the top people in the industry was very interesting and a lot of fun.

What do you love about fragrance?

I love smelling good and discovering new scents.

What are your earliest scent memories?

Wearing Drakkar and Cool Water cologne and Fahrenheit when I was in Junior High.

When did you start wearing fragrance yourself?

I believe Junior High.

Do you have specific memories that you can share associated with fragrances that other people around you have worn, or places you have been?

Any cheap cologne smells great on my dad. He just has a great body chemistry! He can wear a $10 Jovan Musk and it smells amazing on him. Women will actually pull him aside and ask him what he’s wearing.    I also know great smelling celebs! I can judge them by their fragrance.

What are some of your favorite scents currently in your rotation?

I really like Molecule right now, Égoïste Platinum by Chanel and Santal by Le Labo.

Do you choose to wear them according to your mood, or according to what you will be doing that day/night?

According to what I will be doing that day or night.

How do you like your home to smell?

I like my home to smell clean but when I walk into the kitchen I like it to smell like coffee.

April 2021

This edition of Accords is more varied in content than usual as TFF activities cover a wide range this month and we want to share it all.  

April is Autism Acceptance Month so the interview with Laura Slatkin co-founder of NEXT for Autism and Tommy Hilfiger who recently joined their board, provides an update on their progress and programs.  

We at TFF have formally confirmed our ongoing commitment to GIVE BACK and raise awareness with NEXT for Autism.  What began as a plan to partner with our 2019 Game Changer Laura Slatkin for one year, has since grown into a long term relationship. The fragrance community will unite again for the annual December AARMY event and look forward to growing participation nationwide. Meanwhile, please take a moment to learn about the upcoming live stream you do not want to miss on April 30th with Mark Rober & Jimmy Kimmel to support the autism community here.

We are proud of TFF’s ongoing effort to share more expert knowledge about the sense of smell this month.  In this next interview of Monell Center’s Dr. Pamela Dalton we learn more about scent loss, scent training and how one can participate in Monell research.

Our third feature allows us to end on a more celebratory note. On April 14th we held our virtual 2021 Finalists TFF Awards with host Mario Lopez, two-time Emmy-winner, entertainer, actor, producer, and host of NBC’s “Access Hollywood”. Over 1,000 viewers tuned in globally to hear the Finalists announcements. Mario brought great positivity and energy to the event and it was clear he shares our passion for fragrance. Our interview with Mario allows us to welcome him again to the fragrance community as a member in good standing with an ever growing fragrance collection. If you wish to replay the webinar or find out more about the TFF Awards Finalist, you may replay here.

Mark your calendars as we are planning an even more exciting  star studded 2021 TFF Awards event June 10th. More information will follow in the next weeks for the big event when we announce the winners and pay tribute to our Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Calice Becker and Hall of Fame Honoree, Philippe Benacin.

Let’s all look forward to springtime with sunshine and a celebration of a fragrant Mother’s Day!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

March 2021

Talk to Louie Schwartzberg for two minutes, and you’ll immediately get caught up in his enthusiasm about the awe-inspiring splendor of flowers and the natural world. Watch one of his films—even for two seconds—and the same thing will happen. Whether with his Moving Art series on Netflix, his Wonder & Awe podcast, or films such as Fantastic Fungi and Wings of Nature, Schwartzberg’s mission is to explore both the magnificence and the minutiae of the planet, inspiring us to look beyond ourselves. This is why he was the perfect partner for the Fragrance Foundation to bring the theme of Fragrance Day 2021—florals—to life.  The award-winning artist and filmmaker has been focusing his gaze, and camera, on flowers for 40 years, documenting them in time-lapse as they progress from buds to glorious open blooms. His flowers blossomed on the Fragrance Foundation’s social media feeds and throughout the Fragrance Day celebrations, providing opportunities for meditative moments on the miraculous, spellbinding glory of nature. “It’s a beautiful way to get people turned on to being more aware, more conscious,” Schwartzberg says. “It’s all about the one-ness of it all. Let life flourish.”

How did your collaboration with the Fragrance Foundation come about?

I think that Linda went to see my film Fantastic Fungi on the big screen when it came to New York, and we connected after that. I always encourage people to see my work on the big screen if they can, because it’s mind-blowing. That’s one way to shift consciousness and to have people open their hearts, and look at life from a different point of view. It’s all about connection, oneness, beauty. People come out of the theater crying, and it’s not a sad movie. But anyway, that’s how Linda and I originally met.

How do the flowers that you filmed for Fragrance Day connect to your work as a whole?

I’ve been on this lifelong journey with my films. Before I did Fantastic Fungi, I did a film called Wings of Life. In it, Meryl Streep tells the story from the point of view of a flower getting it on with bees, bats, hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s really amazing that beauty is nature’s tool for survival, because we protect what we love. Why and how did that happen? Well, billions of years of R&D, figuring out how to make life flourish. And what orchestrates all that? What motivates all of that? I love the fact that it’s beauty. We’re hard-wired to respond to it. And flowers use color, movement, aroma, pattern. All these things trigger the senses of every living being.

A kid might ask, what is a flower? Is it just a pretty little thing? Hell, no. It’s the sexual organ of a plant. And it has evolved over millions of years with pollinators in this beautiful love affair that’s been going on. The flower seduces these messengers. Us included, because we’re slaves to flowers too. We plant flowers by the billions. We’re helping them reproduce. Why? Because they’re beautiful. They make us feel good.

For me, that’s just, as a visual artist, I’m never going to get tired of looking at flowers because no two are alike. Every color is different, the way they move is different, the way they open is different, the way they smell is different. Each one is a completely different journey into an essential experience that makes me present, makes me connect with the divine.

When did you film your first flower?

About four decades ago. I graduated from UCLA as somebody who took fine art and photography and shot a lot of the anti-war protests and fell in love with photography and history. When I got involved with filmmaking, I wanted to shoot in the highest quality format possible, because especially with nature imagery you want high resolution. But it was very expensive back then. I ended up retrofitting these old cameras that were built in the ’30s, and super high quality, that enabled me to film one frame at a time which is what time-lapse is. It really speeds up reality. With flowers, you could shoot for two or three months to get a four minute roll of film. It fit my budget. And nobody had ever shot time-lapse in 35-millimeter before.

But the other aspect of what I was doing was that it was really about capturing a sense of wonder. I wanted to be able to look at life from a different point of view than the arrogant human point of view. When there’s a fly on your arm, it would look at you like a slow-moving giant, because it’s in hyperspace. Its lifespan is maybe a couple of weeks. To redwood, which lives 500 years, we’re the ones in hyperspace. I use the camera as a time machine. It’s something that blows your mind from a scientific point of view, but also from a spiritual point of view, because it changes your perspective to realize that everything has its own way of life on this planet.

What are the biggest challenges in filming flowers this way?

It’s challenging in a lot of ways. I shoot mostly indoors, where I have grow lights and cameras and timers set up. You can’t have wind. You can’t have bugs. I need to keep the flowers happy. And it’s slow. I’ve been going nonstop 24 hours a day, seven days a week for four decades – and I’ve got 16, 17 hours of time-lapse footage.

Do you have any idea how many flowers you’ve filmed in that time?

I would say hundreds. Basically, there’s no rhyme or reason to what I choose to shoot next. There’s a casting couch actually, right outside my room where I have all these little flowers growing. But it’s whatever excites me. I’ll go to the nursery, and see something’s about to bloom. I don’t care what the name of the flower is, it’s just being able to capture its beauty.

I’ve shot some over and over again. Because it starts with a bud. How do I know where it’s going to be, three days from now? How it’s going to open? How big is it going to be? What direction will it move? Part of the joy of doing it is anticipating the future. Like surfing the wave, where do I need to be to catch a wave? It makes you present. It’s a meditation in a way. I really have to understand the flower, look at it, maybe look at others around it. If it’s a little bush or a plant, see how it opened, then I take my best guess when and how it is going to bloom. The joy is when it finally does happen. If it’s beautiful, hooray. Failure, I learned something. There’s a ratio of failure. Probably get one out of six.

Do you have favorite flowers, and favorite flower scents?

I would say when it comes to scent, I’m a sucker for the ones that smell tropical, like plumeria, but they’re all good. And then, pansies are just insane when it comes to their colors. I like those deep dark purples with yellow. The velvety rich color. There’s nothing quite like it.

Watching the Fragrance Foundation flower films has such a calming, meditative quality. Why do you think that’s particularly resonant, given the pandemic?

It’s super valuable because everybody has not been able to travel and go outdoors. And so what I try to do is I try to bring nature into our environment and digital nature is certainly better than nothing at all. It’s not a replacement for the real thing, but it’s still valuable. The other thing that I think is important is, I don’t just show you a picture of a flower. I’m actually showing you a flower move, and open. I’m opening your horizons, to look at things, and take you on a journey through time and scale. It challenges the brain, because it’s like, what am I looking at? Is it real? Is it animation? Is it CGI? That is good. It means it stops you in your tracks and makes you think about it. I’ll tell you, the common reaction I get from people who watch my stuff is they go, “Oh, my God.” And what does that phrase mean? The oh means I stopped you in your tracks. The my means, it touched something deep inside of your soul, and God is universal energy that we all want to get connected to. That to me is the ultimate compliment.

What would you say your greater mission is?

To turn people on. I may have started just because I was seduced by flowers, but when I learned that the bees were disappearing, I made Wings of Life. I needed to tell the story of this love affair, and show how pollination is the source not only of our food supply but the majority of life on our planet. If you take the foundation out of life on the planet, which are the little things in life, the flowers, the bees, the fungi that creates soil, then you’re killing everybody. That would be a giant disaster. They predict we’re going to lose 50% of species in the next 30 or 40 years, which is heartbreaking. But if we lose the bees for example, Einstein said we have less than five years left to live.

The mission is to celebrate life and have life flourish. I need to tell stories that can help make people aware of how amazing the natural world is, and want to protect it and celebrate it and make the right choices, not because it’s the right thing to do, but because they’re emotionally connected to it.

March 2021

Pamela Dalton, PhD, MPH is an experimental psychologist who studies smell at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. Her work focuses on the ways that we interact with scent in our daily lives, revealing the way that smell guides us through the world, affects our emotions, and colors our memories. The Monell Center’s research has taken on particular resonance in the Covid era, and Dalton has been working closely with individuals whose sense of smell has been impacted by the virus to develop scent training tactics designed to help restore their olfactive function. As the Fragrance Foundation has now established a close relationship with Monell, Dalton joined Linda G. Levy in an engaging conversation for Fragrance Day 2021, which you can replay here. For this month’s Accords, she goes into even greater detail about her fascinating work.

Tell us a bit about the Monell Center and what it does.

We were founded 52 years ago as a basic research center devoted to things that nobody was formally studying in an institute at the time: smell and taste. The institute started small, but it has grown exponentially over time, and our approach is a bit different now. The fundamental mechanisms of smell and taste have largely been elucidated and described so now we’re looking at the downstream effects. What happens when you lose your sense of smell? How does smell determine what you choose to eat, what kind of air freshener you choose, what perfume you wear? We’re trying to understand that in the context of everyday life.

Why has smell historically been less studied than the other senses?

One, it was undervalued greatly and so even a few years ago when people would go to their doctors and say, I can’t smell, or I’m having trouble smelling, it would be like, well, worse things could happen. It’s become very clear that that’s not true. Sometimes it is the worst thing for many people. Also, taste and smell are incredibly difficult systems to study and for a long time there was no standardized way of doing it. We knew how the visual system works a very long time ago, but we only really came to understand  the receptors for smell 20 years ago. 

Can you explain why smell is so connected to memory?

The olfactory system is privileged in its access to what we call the emotional center in the brain, the limbic system. And sensory stimulation from smell arrives in the cortex without having to go through a lot of different gateways. Our emotional reaction when we smell something is very immediate,  even when we’ve never smelled that item before. When we don’t understand what an odor represents, we’re probably going to be a little bit cautious, but this hedonic response immediately calls on our memory system and our emotional memory system to say, “ah, that’s, the smell of my first boyfriend’s cologne” or “that’s the smell of my grandmother’s kitchen when I would go to visit her.” It’s because of this privileged access between these brain structures that govern not only smell, but also emotional experience.

What are some of the things that affect the way that we feel about something that we smell?

Generally, our experience with it. I really love for there to be some definitive evidence one way or the other, but we really don’t know whether we are born as babies with innate aversions or preferences. We know that with taste, for example, all mammals will like something that’s sweet hours after birth. And if you put something bitter on their tongue, they will make a very characteristic gaping, like, get it out of here. These are hardwired probably because ingesting something sweet is nutritive and ingesting something bitter in nature could be toxic. But we don’t have any evidence that that’s true for odors.  In fact, you don’t actually see children start to mimic what we would call the standard cultural adult reactions to odors, liking or disliking, until they get to be about six to eight years old. They’re really learning from the people around them.

What happens to us physiologically when we smell something that we like?

We breathe very deeply. A very good friend and colleague of mine was studying a cinnamon apple odor at Yale many years ago when he was a postdoc. And he was amazed to see that their heart rate got much lower when they were smelling this odor. But what he wasn’t measuring at the time was how they were breathing. When they were smelling something they really liked, they took longer deep breaths, they slowed down their respiration rate, and of course that had an effect on their heart rate. People have studied breathing and relaxation for thousands of years, and it does have a beneficial effect. That’s why people tell you, when you’re stressed at work, sit back for three minutes and do some deep breathing. If an odor that you like can reinforce that, so much the better, right?

What fascinates you personally the most about smell?

The fact that I can’t really experience what anyone else is experiencing. For example, my husband is colorblind and so I know that he doesn’t see color the way I do, but I know that most other people in the world do. With odor, it’s so individual because it’s the genetics of the system that determines what we can smell, how acutely we can smell it, our own experience. With respect to odor, we really live in different sensory worlds.

So I might smell my perfume differently from someone sitting next to me?

Yes, and this is probably why most people don’t realize they have a loss of sense of smell until it’s completely gone. When I say to you “Do you see that?”, if you don’t see it and it’s sitting 10 feet in front of us, I know one of us has a problem. But if I say, “Do you smell that?” we’re much more likely to allow there to be huge individual variation. We don’t have the same confidence in the uniformity of our responses. So if you say no, I wouldn’t say “You need to get your nose checked,” whereas I would definitely say, “You need to get your eyes checked.”

What are some of the things that you’ve seen as far as that shift in thinking about smell due to COVID?

There’s much greater awareness about how devastating the loss can be. Not being able to smell makes you feel incredibly disoriented. We process odors in our environment almost automatically. And so walking into our home, our olfactory receptors are responding, but they’re not alerting us to anything as long as everything smells the way it should. But when your sense of smell is  gone, you have no marker for, “This is home” or “This is my office” or “This is the park I go to.”

How can scent training work to restore the sense of smell?

Generally, it started out by someone picking four qualitatively different scents from something that had been developed earlier as an odor wheel. You would bring these essential oils to your nose and try to inhale them for maybe a minute each, maybe think about what the odor might be, if you remember what it smelled like, like clove. It’s intentional mindful stimulation of the olfactory system. Some people have paired it with pictures, some people have started using it with odors that are specific to the individual and meaningful. There are a lot of variants to it, but it does appear to work. I think the outcomes are better the sooner you start it, and it probably relies on a certain amount of what we call synaptic plasticity. The system may not be responding but the brain representation of what that smell is still exists. We have to retrain the receptors to make those appropriate connections.

Keeping with the Fragrance Day theme, what have you learned about flower scents in your research?

We may have evolved to have some special preference for floral scents. It’s not just looking at things that are pretty and green or floral, but actually smelling them. I think that there’s a real opportunity to use floral scents in a way where they do have benefits for us in terms of relaxation and stress relief.

Finally, what does the support of the Fragrance Foundation mean for the Monell Center?

It brings us an opportunity to convey our science to a wider audience. It also provides us with a level of expertise in the world of fragrances, which is very valuable.  And I think because of the Fragrance Foundation’s reach in the industry and beyond in consumers, we can provide understanding of our science through another outlet. I think the synergy of the association is a beautiful thing.

March 2021

Meabh Mc Curtin – IFF

What were your impressions of participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day?

I loved seeing the beautiful time-lapse images of flowers by Louie Schwartzberg. His message of the importance and beauty of nature feels particularly pertinent at this moment. It was also really inspiring to listen to the creative dialogue between brand owners and perfumers. I love how each person’s unique story gets translated into scent through sharing their passion, vision, values and life experiences.

What do flowers represent to you, both personally and as a perfumer?

To me flowers represent the joy of being alive and present. It speaks to our humanity that we respond so strongly to their beauty. Flowers also represent hope – seeing lilac, cherry blossom and daffodils appear in spring makes me feel profoundly happy. As a perfumer, I often feel that my work is to try and unlock the seductive and mysterious codes of flowers. It’s an enriching and humbling exercise; nature has a sophisticated simplicity that is impossible to match.

What are your favorite floral notes to work with, and why?

I love orange flower in particular because I was not familiar with it at all growing up in Ireland. I remember clearly the first time I smelled it.  I was on a boat in Morocco and we sailed past a grove of orange trees. The air was heavy with the smell, and I was mesmerized. Depending on how you work it, it can go from clean and bright to very sensual and hypnotic. I also love gardenia and tuberose. The fleshy sensuality of these flowers reminds me of the fragrances that women were wearing around me as I grew up–I associate them with strong independent women.

Dora Baghriche – Firmenich

What were your impressions of participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day?

It always feels good to share my passion with others. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to talk about our Olfactive Design partnership with Central Saint Martins. We felt so lucky to work with these amazing students to develop some ideas about how fragrance can have a more positive impact on society. For example, I worked on a refreshing, watery, green scent for the Fragrance Ventilator to show how we could alleviate some of the stress in the cities today. There were so many really interesting projects that demonstrated a new path for the use of fragrances in the future.

What do flowers represent to you, both personally and as a perfumer?

Flowers are full of possibilities. They still have many unexplored facets, unchartered territories.

What are your favorite floral notes to work with, and why?

Orange blossom, in all its forms and shapes! Creating a new rose is always an exciting challenge as well. Finally, tuberose, for its milky, solar facet; it’s a note that suits my tastes.

 Dana Schmitt – Givaudan

What were your impressions of participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day?

I really enjoyed the virtual Fragrance Day event! I loved seeing and hearing from people with different perspectives in the industry. It felt like an amazing way to welcome Spring this year, celebrating flowers and the idea that we too will (hopefully) be blooming again sooner rather than later!

What do flowers represent to you, both personally and as a perfumer?

To me, flowers represent love! My fiance likes to spoil me with flowers and it’s just a nice treat that he will surprise me with randomly–it’s his way of showing he loves me. As a perfumer, flowers themselves take me back to my time at the Givaudan Perfumery School. We have a beautiful flower garden that we use to study and perfect our accords. Thinking of almost any specific flower takes me to that beautiful moment in my life where I was focused on learning directly from nature.

What are your favorite floral notes to work with, and why?

I definitely go through phases of favorite notes to work with, but currently my favorite floral notes are in the rose family. I have been playing with some rosy raw materials introduced recently to our palette, and I’m on a quest to create my own personal perfume that is based on a rose. Stay tuned…

Nathalie Benareau – Symrise

What were your impressions of participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day?

I loved that there were so many different conversations and perspectives around perfumery. Having the opportunity to watch other perfumers express themselves was very interesting as I believe perfumery comes from the heart and all perfumers have different sensitivities when creating or even simply when talking about fragrances. I love how emotions play such an important role in our craft.

What do flowers represent to you, both personally and as a perfumer?

I grew up in the countryside so I was surrounded by flowers in my parent’s garden, but also in the nature that surrounded our house. There were beautiful prairies, forests and gardens, and when spring came it was such a pleasure watching nature come to life with colorful blossoms and the heavenly scent of flowers in the air. I vividly remember purple lilacs and their intoxicating scent. As a perfumer, flowers represent femininity but also nature, renewal and life itself. They can add signature to a fragrance and really bring a large spectrum of strong emotions: love, happiness, sensuality, relaxation etc.

What are your favorite floral notes to work with, and why? 

I love muguet, or lily of the valley. Its scent is so delicate; simple yet faceted, pure yet playful and colorful. It can be in the heart of any fragrance and can blend very nicely with many types of floralcy.  It can modernize a rose, harness the animalic facet of a jasmine, add lift to the creaminess of a lactonic note in a white floral…the possibilities are endless.

Catherine Selig – Takasago

What were your impressions of participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day?

Participating in the 2021 virtual Fragrance Day made me feel part of our global fragrance community uniting to bring wellness and joy through the olfactive experience in consumers daily lives

What do flowers represent to you, both personally and as a perfumer? 

I feel a special connection to flowers both personally and as a perfumer. 

For me, each flower is associated  with an emotion, a place and a moment in time. I infuse flowers in my fragrances as vessels of those emotions, I carefully choose each flower for its unique energy and vibration in the composition. 

What are your favorite floral notes to work with, and why?

My favorite floral notes to work with are White flowers. White flowers create a halo of comfort and have the power to make the mind travel in time to various places.

March 2021

This edition of Accords marks one full year we are staying home. We look forward with optimism to a brighter future. While we must never forget the lives lost or the impact this pandemic has had ravaging the planet, we all must move forward together. During this most challenging year, we have stayed connected as a fragrance community virtually and hope we will be reunited in person later in 2021. Our theme of Fragrance Day for Accords exemplifies our bonds creatively and through the sense of smell.

The good news for fragrance is that creativity has often flourished and more people have discovered how scent can enhance their lives.  The majority of our community and consumers have actually rebalanced their lives to focus on what is truly important and take nothing for granted.  All over the world, people have as the saying goes “taken the time to stop and smell the roses.”  The phrase has long been a friendly reminder to slow down and enjoy life, to take the time to savor the beauty around you, to relax. It is one positive force that has spread globally for those fortunate enough to be able to adopt it.

This edition of Accords puts a spotlight on our 2021 Fragrance Day collaboration with award winning filmmaker Louie Schwartzberg, who brought our focus on flowers to an extraordinary level. Enjoy getting to know Louie in this special interview with our editor April Long and you will learn why we feel fortunate and grateful for this awe inspiring man whose unique lens will continue to mesmerize us all.  Louie often says our partnership began when we met and he quotes “You had me with hello.” Louie had me way before “hello” when I stepped into a theater and viewed  his astonishing filmmaking. You need not go to the theater, you can be wowed on Netflix to start your journey.

Our first ever 2-day virtual Fragrance Day on March 21 & 22 allowed us to showcase Louie’s magnificent videos as well as feature over 20 world renowned Perfumers, many brands, new TFF Indies, fragrance houses, retailers and more. I was honored to interview Monell Center’s Research Scientist Dr. Pamela Dalton. April Long sat down with Dr. Dalton to add even more to our education on the sense of scent. 

In every Accords we proudly feature Perfumers and today we have Perfumers who had roles in Fragrance Day sharing their perspectives on this special 2021 event. As this is Womens’ History month, we highlight these 5 women Perfumers from diverse backgrounds.

If for any reason you could not watch Fragrance Day live, or wish to experience any portion again, please replay and enjoy here.

Spring is off to a great start and we look forward to the fragrant journey ahead with you all!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

February 2021

TFF introduced its inaugural Notables Awards in 2015, and has inducted exceptional individuals, nominated by their colleagues for their contributions to the fragrance community, every year since. On February 10^th, 2021, in the first ever virtual Notables ceremony, a new generation joined the growing group. The contribution of Notables is extremely valuable to TFF, not only in their roles as ambassadors to the greater world, but directly, as they weigh in on strategy and generate creative ideas as part of the Notables Think Tank. For this edition of Accords, we spoke to the new inductees about what the honor means to them and what they hope to bring to the table going forward.

“It’s such an honor to be in company with these other young leaders and the brands they represent,” says 2021 Notable CeCe Conner, Marketing Manager, North America for BYREDO. “Being part of 2021 TFF Notable Class is a reminder of all the creativity, passion, and innovative thinking that exists in the fragrance industry today and the exciting future it has.”  Andrea Duarte, Director, Integrated Communications, Shiseido, says that being named a Notable “has been a proud moment, both professionally and personally. Fragrance has always been a part of my life, and it feels like coming full circle to be recognized for the role I play in the industry today. I am honored that my genuine passion for the art of fragrances has translated into the work I do alongside my amazing team.” The thrill of being positioned so that they can share their enthusiasm and ideas with like-minded peers is a sentiment shared by all. Or, as Cailin McCarthy, Director of Marketing, NEST New York puts it, “I love the fragrance industry and feel so lucky to be a part of it. To be recognized within it is mind-blowing.”

The new Notables are unanimously aligned with TFF’s goals for greater inclusion within the fragrance industry, calling it out as something they consider very important going forward. “The Fragrance Foundation’s diversity, equity, and inclusion efforts are critical to creating a more welcoming industry environment that’s representative of society around us. I would like to see TFF drive this essential change in the year to come,” says Jessica Leslie, Senior Marketing Manager for Firmenich. Education and mentoring, too, are top of mind for the 2021 Notables, who will be active in connecting with students at their alma maters as well as working with industry fledglings who are learning the ropes. “I think sharing my personal experience and growth in this industry could help to inspire others that are interested in this field. I am looking forward to the Fragrance Foundation mentorship initiative and the opportunity to speak to students at FIT and other local colleges and universities, says Chantell Gerena, Fragrance Development Director, Symrise. “TFF is such an inspiring organization and uniquely positioned as it serves as the mouthpiece for an entire industry. Promoting TFF as an educational resource, especially for young professionals in the industry is something I’m looking forward to taking part in,” says Tim Halle, Marketing Director Fragrances, Christian Dior. “I hope that I’ll be able to connect others with the amazing resources TFF provides.”

Paying forward the guidance that they themselves received is key, too. “I look forward to mentoring people coming up in the industry,” says McCarthy. “I was lucky that I had a handful of incredibly generous people who shared their passion and knowledge.  It makes such a difference when you have someone looking out for you.”

As we all are, the Notables are looking forward to the TFF events of 2021 and beyond, and already have some thoughts about what they would like to see. “In the coming year, I hope to see TFF continue to offer new and exciting educational opportunities, such as Masterclasses that provide the chance to hear and learn from iconic changemakers in the industry, in addition to expanding the knowledge of the fragrance industry as a career path to college students and entry-level candidates,” says Lindsay Tomaro, Senior Manager, PR and Influencer Marketing, Coty. “In a time where many are still working remotely, the coming year offers an excellent opportunity to expand our reach and capitalize on the ability to bring many people together in digital forums.”

But of course, what will be better than finally being able to join together and celebrate IRL? “I simply can’t wait to finally meet and connect with people in person again!” says Leslie. “To be able to bond and chat about what’s next in this industry over a glass of wine is the dream. Second, the opportunity for unexpected discovery or inspiration is so much greater when exploring the world in person. I look forward to doing this again soon.” There will be much to enjoy and share in the months ahead, when even the simplest things will seem revelatory. Like, says Halle, “Being able to have conversations without realizing 30 seconds in that you’ve been on mute the whole time.” Cheers to the Notables class of 2021.

February 2021

Once you’re a Notable, you are forever a Notable. Ever since TFF began honoring Notables in the fragrance community in 2015, those individuals have become a part of the TFF family, and have played a role in guiding policy and planning events via the Think Tank. At TFF, every voice is heard, and the power of the growing Notable community is that with each year that group of voices grows ever more diverse. Organizations have nominated Notables, too, from virtually every division and job description in the fragrance world, building a strong collaborative force with a real understanding of how things work and how we can all work together. For this issue of Accords, we checked in with some of TFF’s past Notables to see how they have found the experience so far.

Since becoming a Notable, many of our honorees have hit career milestones. “Since being named a Notable, I was promoted to Fragrance Director of Cartier North America and had to lead my team through the challenges of the pandemic, while maintaining a positive outlook,” says Anais Nouvet, North America Fragrance Director, Cartier, Class of 2018. “I am most proud of seeing the resilience and creativity that each of my team members demonstrated in these tricky times.” Alexandra Cassar, Scent Design Manager, Fine Fragrance, IFF, also Class of 2018, says, “Since having been named a Notable, my proudest achievement has been completing my FIT Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Masters while juggling a full-time career. You realize you can take on more than you ever deemed imaginable. The difficulty is what has made it so rewarding.” Jordan Saxemard, Vice President Marketing, US Luxury Division, Coty, galvanized the launch of Gucci Guilty Eau de Parfum, beginning work with perfumer Jacques Huclier to develop the scent not long after his 2018 Notables Award. “Fast forward to Holiday 2020, the new Gucci Guilty Eau de Parfum helped the franchise reach its new peak position of #4 men’s fragrance brand in the US market: the stars were, indeed, aligned,” he says.

The TFF Think Tank meetings have been gratifying for all, with a common feeling that creative solutions are valued and that real change is being made. “I feel that they’ve provided fresh thinking and new perspectives on how the Fragrance Foundation can leverage new social platforms and utilize untraditional means to communicate with members within and outside of our industry,” says Ashli Hamilton, Project Manager, Ann Gottlieb Associates, Class of 2016. “I think the Notables Think Tank meetings have been great for TFF and the industry because we are able to effectively communicate and align on goals, values, and missions,” says Hannah Silver, Product Development Assistant Manager, NEST New York, Class of 2018. “These meetings are a safe place for us to clearly articulate what needs to happen and ignites an inspiring start for change.” Saxemard adds, “These meetings are crucial to the future of our industry. We must keep a pulse on present and future trends at all times to stay ahead of the game and continue to inspire the American people through the art of fragrance.”

The Notables also appreciate that they all bring something very different and special to the table. “I grew up on a dirt road in Western Pennsylvania. I now live on a graffiti-covered street in Bushwick, Brooklyn. I combine a small-town boy’s appreciation for life’s simple joys with a New Yorker’s love of the fantastically weird,” says Justin Welch, Director of Marketing, Firmenich, Class of 2017. “We all took separate journeys to meet together in this industry. Our individual stories have the power to facet a beautifully colorful dialogue together.”

As the new year gets rolling, the Notables are brimming with ideas and goals that they hope to implement with TFF moving forward. When asked what she would like to see TFF accomplish in the coming year, Hamilton says, “A topic that’s been a hot button for me is the truth behind “naturals” and having a forum for industry leaders to debunk some of the myths around naturals being the holy grail for consumers. There’s a lot of misinformation out there and I think it would be helpful for us as an industry to demystify some of that information that natural isn’t always better.” Silver says she would hope to see TFF “bring more attention to sustainable practices across the fragrance industry. Right now, fragrance houses have done a comprehensive, dynamite job sourcing materials and ingredients in a sustainable way, but the same has not happened for packaging. There are so many innovative packaging materials for both consumer-facing and business to business. I am hoping TFF brings to light the amount of opportunity we have to implement ethical processes and practices.” And for Cassar, it’s all about spreading the good word: “I would love to see TFF achieve their goal in getting the word out to colleges. Our industry is so hidden, you either know someone who works in it or you fall into it by pure chance. Imagine the talent we could be missing out on?”

Lastly, they share advice for those who are just starting out, and dream of becoming a Notable in the future. “Work hard, and communicate with your team and colleagues,” says Liza Ketcham, Account Executive, Givaudan, Class of 2019. “Speak up when you need help and speak up when you’re ready to take on more. Take ownership when you make a mistake, and learn from it. Learn as much as you can from the people around you, not just in your area of the business. And finally, don’t always take everything so seriously—it is just as important to work hard and do your job well as it is to laugh and make connections with people and find joy in the parts of your job that you really love.”

February 2021

Aurore Mane, Perfumer – MANE

What does being named a 2021 Notable mean to you?

It is a tremendous honor to be recognized by the people I work with and the fragrance industry. As a perfumer, receiving criticism is part of your everyday job. It is always about creating a perfect fragrance, being very critical about your own creations. Receiving this award is a humbling experience, and as a woman in the industry, I feel empowered to be recognized and hopefully I can lead by example for future women for years to come.  

What can you add in value to TFF as a Notable perfumer?

There is a whole process behind the launch of a fragrance and as a perfumer I take pride in being at the heart of it. I want to value fragrances as an experience, and not just another product to be sold to consumers. Fragrance is an emotional journey, a form of art that expresses an idea created with imagination. And as a perfumer I think it is important to showcase more of the essence of fragrances and maybe bring a different vision to it.  

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

I am not afraid to blend unexpected ingredients and to overdose them. I like to be bold and let my emotions guide my creativity.  Isn’t it how Chanel No. 5 was created? An overdose of aldehydes?

What are your favorite notes to work with?

I love working with woody notes. They are dependable and pliable. Woods can be mysterious, elegant, modern, unexpected, complex, textural and layered. They automatically provide a bottom note to any composition and reinforce other elements depending on their olfactive profile. Woody notes bring depth, dimension, character, texture and sensuality to any fragrance and it is a way to complete a scent and add a signature.

Is there a scent that you have found keeps you grounded and calm?

Any scents that reminds me of my childhood and my home town the south of France. The smell of mimosa flowers in February, jasmine, roses and orange blossom during summer.

The lavender fields and the exquisite smell of my mom’s kitchen. All these scents remind me of very happy times and unforgettable memories that keeps me calm and grounded.

How do you think that our relationship to scent will change once we are out in the world again?

We might have a resurgence to basics once we are out in the world. I think people are going to look for smells that soothe and ground them and bring a sense of nostalgia.

Being on hold for such a long time has stopped people from experiencing life like they used to know. And when we return to a sense of normalcy, I believe people will appreciate and value scents in a transformative way.

What are you most looking forward to this year?

I am really looking forward to traveling again. As a perfumer, I am a very curious person and creating fragrance is very emotional to me. Emotions come from my experiences and interactions with others and my surroundings. This is what drives my creativity. So I am really looking forward to reconnecting with people face to face, and to have drinks or bites with friends in a social setting as opposed to over Zoom calls!!

Mackenzie Reilly, Junior Perfumer – International Flavors & Fragrances

What does being named a 2021 Notable mean to you?

It is an honor, as it signifies being recognized by my peers and colleagues (and the board of TFF), as well as others in the fragrance world.  I am very proud to represent IFF as a Perfumer and as a Notable, and am humbled to be in such great company as the other honorees.

What can you add in value to TFF as a Notable perfumer?

I hope to contribute to the future of the fragrance industry in many ways, including in the discussions we will have about how to take sustainability and respect for the environment to the next level. I know that participating in the TFF Notable Think Tanks will allow for great discussions across company lines and among professionals and creatives in different fields of expertise.  There are not so many perfumers in the group, so I am looking forward to adding that voice and unique perspective into the mix.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

My style is constantly evolving, but I am always told my fragrances are very signed.  I like to create sophisticated fragrances, elegant in structure, very qualitative and I am always experimenting with our beautiful palette of natural ingredients from LMR. 

What are your favorite notes to work with?

I love working with clean cedar & amber ingredients, musks, and mineral woody notes.  I also love to work with Orris as I find it extremely versatile, chic, and timeless.  Orange blossom and Jasmine Sambac are two of my favorite florals, and I also love accents of notes like Ambrette seed and Clary Sage absolute, as they can enhance woods, florals and musks so beautifully. 

Is there a scent that you have found keeps you grounded and calm?

Scent in general is very grounding! To smell, you must be extremely focused and present, which is intuitively calming. I have been practicing yoga for 20 years and find that scenting the space creates a grounding and sacred atmosphere. That being said, I do gravitate towards Palo Santo, Olibanum, and Copal for their particularly grounding effects. 

How do you think that our relationship to scent will change once we are out in the world again?

I think this unprecedented period of time has provoked a lot of introspection and awareness about the spaces we live in. Many people have started using, or increased their usage of, scent at home (candles, incense, room sprays) and most likely will continue that practice going forward.  I hope and expect that people will be excited to use perfume more frequently as their favorite accessory once we start going out again and socializing! 

What are you most looking forward to this year?

I am most looking forward to the world finding more stability, people feeling safe and healthy again, the warm weather making it all a bit easier on us, and seeing how we can all take what we have learned from the past year’s challenges into a brighter and kinder future.  And of course, hugs, traveling, and eating once again at our favorite restaurants!

February 2021

TFF Notables has now reached its sixth year, and continues to be a very important force in our objective to nurture talent.  The original Notables was established with the single premise to recognize talent of those described as “up and coming in the industry”. Now we are doing so much more. A theme I use as a guiding light leading TFF, is always that TOGETHER we can achieve so much more. Together, we take action with measurable results.

All of the Notables from 2015-2021 participate voluntarily in the Notables Think Tank.  We utilize this forum to ideate, brainstorm and formalize strategies. We are forever grateful for their willingness to share “off the record” as well as formally so we may have reality checks on all topics and initiatives, including our own TFF performance.

Our goals remain even more steadfast as we take action and focus on nurturing talent via mentoring, college outreach and TFF’s signature event, Masterclass. We will reach out to  colleges and universities across the USA as alumni, to share that fragrance is a career path, and incorporate information on our website, social and more.

Most importantly as you can read in their own words, Diversity, Equity & Inclusion is our #1 commitment. We are dedicated to an even more diverse Notables as our community grows. Other key topics about educating consumers regarding naturals and sustainability will be evident in 2021.

This Accords allows many Notables to share their perspectives of this special role at TFF. We are grateful to all of them that were able to meet our request based on their demanding schedules.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

January 2021

As the fragrance community begins 2021 with a fresh surge of optimism, The Fragrance Foundation is stepping forward to implement a number of initiatives to help make the industry more diverse and accessible. The Fragrance Foundation continues to build upon the progress made with the Diversity, Equity and Inclusion initiative (DEI), which was introduced in 2020 with a goal of forging permanent change within the organization and the fragrance world as a whole. For this New Year edition of Accords, Fragrance Foundation President, Linda G. Levy, joins with Senior Director of Events, Education, and Give Back, Sharné Jackson, to discuss the ways in which the Foundation will rally its members—both long-standing and new—to enhance education, accessibility, and engagement, making the fragrance industry stronger and more connected as a result. 

When you decide to introduce something as important as DEI, what is the process?

Linda: 

The Fragrance Foundation is making big strides towards inclusivity. We are embracing all diverse backgrounds, cultures, ethnicities, genders and identities. We have a sequence of how we make changes at The Fragrance Foundation. First, I share my vision and strategy with my small but empowered team. Next we brainstorm about what we want to do. Then we translate and articulate it so we can share it in a clear and succinct manner. Then we plan our objectives and actions. Next I propose it to the TFF Executive Committee and with that input I present it for discussion to the TFF Board. Once the board is aligned, we share it with all of our TFF membership, and afterwards we announce it to all in our TFF communications and to outside media. At that time, we open the runway and go into full action mode, as I say, “the plane is taking off.” We’re exactly at that point, the plane is past lift off and in the air, heading for its first landing.

What objectives have you set in place so far? 

Sharné: 

We’ve had several meetings with our Diversity Equity and Inclusion committee and talked about certain initiatives within the community that we want to implement. For 2021, it’s all about action. One of the initiatives that I’m really proud of involves education. I think that from an educational standpoint, young people do not know that working in fragrance is a career. We really want to step up our game. So, we have tasked each of our Diversity, Equity and Inclusion committee point of contacts to find people who work within their companies who have connections with their colleges — to visit these schools and talk about their careers in the fragrance industry. I attended Spelman College, a Historically Black College (HBCU), and throughout my career, I’ve stayed very connected to my school. I always go back to talk to students about my career in the retail industry, and now the fragrance community, to share opportunities because I’m very passionate about mentoring and education.

There will also be a digital piece to this, so that students can really see what a career path in the fragrance industry looks like. That’s one of our big goals. When we talk about Diversity, Equity and Inclusion, it’s very important for young people to see that there’s somebody who looks like them. Historically, there have been few people of color in the fragrance community and I cannot tell you how proud I am of Chris Collins, for being a trailblazer and all that he’s achieved as a black man who has had fewer resources available to him. When I talk to people within my community it is a source of pride, the expectation is that there will be other diverse brands to follow in Chris’ footsteps.

Part two of this is that we’ve asked the DEI committee members to provide us with a list of colleges and companies regarding internships, as well as job placement. I’m getting some great responses thus far, and we’re looking to roll this out with Summer Internships.

Linda:

We always knew that we needed to be involved in the student community. It seemed like a separate lane for a while, but now we’re closing the gap. I will be reconnecting with my alma mater, Lehigh University, with ELLE Beauty Director, Katie Becker, who is also an alum and one of my mentees. Taking this step with Katie will allow me to close the gap of … hmmm… several decades.

The other thing that allows us to take this leadership position is that in this industry we represent very big organizations, as well as mini brands, so we can create overall guidance, and each can adapt in their own way and culture. We formed our DEI committee by going to our board and asking them to identify people who are passionate about the subject. We have HR heads, people in marketing, all different categories. We’ve got this group that can really be aligned with us. They’re very grateful to us that we’re doing this without making rules for them and letting them just express themselves. It’s a big deal.

You’ve also been very proactive about expanding membership. How is that a part of this?

Linda:

We wanted to bring in a more expanded, diverse community. Plus, I realized that there were a lot of talented small brands that might not necessarily be on our radar. There was a backlog of indies, who had been turned off by the Fragrance Foundation in the past and couldn’t join because of monetary restrictions. So we went to the board and we changed the bylaws officially, allowing us to bring in brands, with voting rights, as well as a different type of membership structure. We have to keep this membership a short list based on our tiny team and limited bandwidth. We need to ensure we can deliver on our benefits and commitments. TFF Indie membership applications will open in July 2021. In future years we expect this will not be so limited based on our learnings and expanded partnership in our fragrance community.

Maison d’Etto is a great example of an Indie brand who contacted us way back. That is a brand that was so involved in the community, and really wanted to join TFF but was put off by the expectations of monetary commitments. I realized, instead of just looking for new, we need to embrace those people who have been trying to get in. Harlem Candle Company and Teri Johnson we did not know. So when she was brought to our attention we went after her. It’s really working both ways. But the other thing that is important is that we wanted to make sure that it wouldn’t just be about being able to say you’re a member of the Fragrance Foundation—we wanted to give them benefits.

Sharné: 

This spring we will launch the opening of our Fragrance Online Academy, which will be complimentary to our new Indie members. We will also provide them with marketing and PR in terms of including them in Noteworthy, Accords, and on Instagram – really in all parts of our Fragrance Foundation communications. 

Linda:

The key word is access. I make sure that I include these smaller brands in every conversation that I have with the media and the business network. I also make sure that we find ways that we can help them with our different members. It used to be that in order to sell at a major retailer, it could almost make a small brand bankrupt. So we’re asking our members to be a bit more lenient just as we are with our participation. We can’t redo their financial model, but we can really ask them to help us nurture these brands and give them access in ways that they would not have had before. 

Based on my 20+ years in the beauty business I was able to reach out and identify experts for an Indie Advisor Panel. They no longer have full time roles, but have great fragrance expertise and are gracious and generous enough to share their time to provide guidance to our TFF Indies in group zooms as well as one on one discussions. We are thrilled about it. The panel so far includes Gary Borofsky, Terry Darland, Nance Hastings and Nancy McKay.

What is the strategy going forward?

Linda:

We will include DEI in everything we do. The Notables will join us in our efforts. When we do our Awards, we want to make sure that the people who are presenters, and those who are nominated, are strongly representing diversity. I think we’re joining hands and we’re doing it. And when we get to the Masterclass or to Fragrance Day, which is a big conversation with the consumer, as well as within the industry, it will be clear that this is part of us. This is not just a special event.

Sharné

I’m very excited about the next generation of leaders. At the TFF Notables meeting last week I spoke about the DEI initiative and said, “You all are really going to be the ones that move this needle in everything that you do.” I was so inspired by the meeting and the enthusiasm and future participation of the Notables and how they will help to make an impact. The Fragrance Foundation understands that we can no longer do what we’ve done in the past and we have to move forward to be inclusive, putting into place the steps that we must take for change. It doesn’t happen overnight, it’s an ongoing commitment.

Linda: 

I do not think there’s anything we’re going to be prouder of when we come out of this stay home pandemic year. It’s really, how do we support the industry? And without question, the enthusiasm from the Notables, from the board, from the fragrance houses, from everywhere, is huge. We’re going somewhere all together, and it’s very exciting. What we are calling diversity is opening up all we do for everyone to join us. The USA is the melting pot of the world, and there’s great optimism now. I think it’s the time to take it and make it happen. 

January 2021

Rob Smith calls himself a “disruptor in traditional spaces,” and the work he has done to challenge norms within the fragrance industry is nothing short of astonishing. His Phluid Project community (and gender-free Phluid Scent Elixirs) gives underrepresented LGBTQIA+ youth a platform for their voices to be heard, as well as opportunities to forge career paths free from the hindrances or bias of the past. His emphasis as a leader in the Fragrance Foundation’s Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiative is on education, and helping corporations transform their policies to make them more open and equitable. This month, he shares his thoughts on the DEI’s accomplishments, and the objectives he hopes to spearhead in the months ahead.  

Why do you think TFF’s DEI is so important, based on your experience in the industry?

To be honest, every industry should be focused on DEI, not just because it’s the right thing to do, but because it’s statistically proven that more inclusive companies outperform their competitors. The world continues to look more diverse, the global economy is booming, and companies that don’t stand up and face that reality, they will lose out. Starting with an inclusive workplace will bring the voices and insights into a brands voice, focus and strategy. 

Why do you feel so personally committed to this cause? 

I’m an openly gay man and I guess that I started off navigating a heteronormative Caucasian industry. Even after I came out as gay, I was performing as a straight acting executive. I suppose this helped to create a sense of empathy by being “othered.” I started to direct this passion into working within my companies to bring inclusive thinking and strategy into the workplace as well as working with nonprofits. The more I focused, the better I felt about my purpose. Now, it’s just a part of my everyday existence. But, I tell myself everyday, I can always do more and give more.

What are you proudest of that the DEI initiative has accomplished so far? 

I’m proud that we’re starting the conversation, knowing that we don’t have the answers, and we’re willing to expose our naiveté. That takes courage. We’re lifting up underrepresented voices and giving them a platform. It was shocking to me; the lack of diversity in the fragrance industry. We have work to do. But we’ve started to take the first step. And, that’s how the journey begins.

What are the next steps? 

We need to find more and more voices from underrepresented communities to join the group. Each bringing a unique perspective. And, then we need to listen and learn. Additionally, I learned during the BLM movement that it’s our job to educate ourselves and not just sit back and wait to be educated by a minority. Once you’re educated, you can have a much more intellectual and productive conversation. Then, we move from ally to advocate, helping to create change and impact within our sphere of influence.. and we have many of them. 

What do you consider the biggest challenges we will need to overcome? 

The biggest challenge is making change in a very traditional space. Fragrance is notorious for the exploitation idealism of what it is to be male or female. It’s a dated and very unhealthy representation of masculinity, femininity and beauty. Deconstructing this space to be more inclusive will take a great deal of work and courage. 

What do you consider your mission within the DEI as well as within the fragrance industry as a whole? 

My role is, and will continue to be, a peaceful warrior. I find a great deal of satisfaction being a disruptor in traditional spaces. I hope that I can help people to think differently as we enter a conversation with an open mind and open heart. The mission statement of The Phluid Project is to “challenge boundaries with humanity”. It could serve as my personal mission statement as well. 

You’ve offered to help educate TFF member companies on communication and culture surrounding DEI. Why do you believe this is necessary? 

One of the social codes from The Phluid Project is “we are all students and we are all teachers”. I have spent the past three years learning about Gen Z, learning about the fluidity in identity, expression, orientation. I’d like to share this insight with as many interested adults as I can find, navigating us through a portal into the future. You see, I’ve learned that binary constructs hurt all of us. We are binded into “rules” about how we’re supposed to act, believe and behave. Gen Z says “I’m not this or that. I’m this AND that. We all have the opportunity to join them on this crusade toward authenticity and self-expression. Let’s stop wasting time and get on with it.

January 2021

As the founder of Harlem-based luxury brand, World of Chris Collins, Chris Collins is a vital force in driving diversity within the fragrance community. His enthusiastic participation in the Fragrance Foundation’s Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiative has been integral to the program, and by sharing his example and brand story he hopes to set an example for other Black brands to see and follow. Here, he shares his thoughts on the advances made so far, and where the fragrance community still has important strides to make to build a future where everyone is represented and given the tools and opportunities they need to thrive. 

Why do you think TFF’s DEI is so important, based on your experience in the industry?

When I entered into the world of perfume, there were very few examples of people of color that I could follow, if any. I think in high-end perfume, I had the first brand that was launched by a man of color. And it was a very tough road. I was well-accepted because I had great mentors and great support around me, but had I not had that, I think it would have been even more difficult. I think it’s important now that we shed light on the diversity in perfume. There’s so many smaller brands that don’t have the opportunity to be noticed. And I think that it is very important that the Fragrance Foundation, which has a very large, broad platform, shed light on them. I had a conversation with Linda right before the pandemic, that I thought it was a pretty big deal that a man of color had his brand sitting on a shelf next to the likes of Tom Ford, Creed, and Killian, which are brands that I look up to and that I admire very much. We should shed light on the fact that I’m next to those brands, so other brands can know that they also have the opportunity to do the same. I’ve learned so much along the way. And there’s so much to share with brands that are wanting to launch, or people who just want to be in the business, whether as a buyer, or an evaluator. People of color, both men and women, need to know that there is possibility in this industry.

Why do you believe it is crucial that people see diversity within the fragrance industry?

I just think the more you show diversity, the more people understand that they have the opportunity to be a part of it. There are some very cool brands out there, with really cool stories. I knew that once I broke into the industry, I would have to be a trailblazer, because again, people who follow, they have to know that it’s possible. I still have a long way to go. It’s not a situation that is fixed, or even up to par to where it should be, but we’re on track. And, with me and some of the other brands that are involved and with Prez Levy, I think we could really break some ground here, and open this up to a lot of brands, a lot more diverse brands, both men and women, around the world.

What are you proudest of that the DEI initiative has accomplished so far?

I’m proudest of the fact that it started as a conversation between Linda and me, and now it’s grown. And now we have so many retailers and buyers onboard who understand. I think the Black Lives Matter situation, the racial unrest that happened last year, lit a fire under a lot of retailers and a lot of people in the industry recognizing that we need more diversity in the field of perfume. I think it is happening, and I think it will happen, and I’m proud of that. I’m proud to be the brand that is being able to be discussed with these bigger brands. And now other smaller brands can see my example.

What are the next steps?

When you think next steps, it’s hard to see how this initiative will grow, but you just keep pushing forward. You put one foot in front of the other. There’s been new involvement within the Fragrance Foundation with other brands that are more diverse, so we just keep pushing. I think it’s a beautiful thing. Diversity is beautiful. Men, women from different walks of life, races, cultures, it just adds to a platform for new stories to be told.

Where would you like to see the program be in a year’s time?

Next year, hopefully, we’ll have more brands that we can shine a light on. And, we’ll keep having a conversation. We have a great Board. We have a lot of people who want to be involved, which is very exciting. I’m here to support. I’m here to help, and do whatever I can do. It will be one of my proudest accomplishments if my brand grows to a point where other brands of color have never gone, but also to bring some other brands with me. I take that job very seriously.

What do you consider the biggest challenges we will need to overcome?

The biggest challenge I think is just to convince people around the world, other retailers, other boutiques, to give us the opportunity. That is the number one thing that we all need as diverse brands, brands of color, both men and women, the LGBTQ community. We all need opportunity. Once we have the opportunity, I think we will be able to show that we’ve got good stuff. After the Black Lives Matter and racial unrest happened last year, there was new attention paid to Black brands. And, all of a sudden, I started to see all these brands come out of the woodwork that I didn’t even know existed. There are hundreds of beauty brands that are run or owned by men and women of different diverse backgrounds, and I thought that that was beautiful to see. There’s a place in this space for all of us. So hopefully, we can grow and move the initiative forward, and this time next year, we’ll have more brands on shelves by men and women of color.

What do you hope that aspiring fragrance brands can learn from your example? 

 I hope that they can learn from me that all things are possible. You have to put the work into it. I never wanted a handout. I never wanted someone to just give me an opportunity because I was Black, but I did want an opportunity to show work that I took a lot of pride in. So I hope people will give these brands at least a chance. I’m looking forward to seeing how the DEI grows, because there’s so much work we need to do, but there’s so much possibility that we can attain. I want to keep trailblazing. There’s more ground to cover. There’s more places to go, and I’m looking forward to the challenge. I’m looking forward to making sure that there are more diverse brands in the market very soon.

January 2021

SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, GIVAUDAN

What initially drew you to perfumery?

I chanced into the perfumery world more by a haphazard coincidence as this job wasn’t known to me, however I had always been intrigued by smells unconsciously; growing up in Malaysia, I was surrounded by a rich array of flowers and spices. It was my chemical engineering studies which landed me this job, and an interview with Dwight Loren who introduced me to the wonders and beauty of this job.

How did growing up in Malaysia impact your global perspective and work as a perfumer?

I grew up in Malaysia and started work (with Givaudan Roure) in Hong Kong after studying in Manchester, England. In Hong Kong I was exposed to the different olfactory tastes of the whole Asian market which was very specific for each country. I also had worked for 8 years with a Japanese company right after Givaudan perfumery school, and before coming back to Givaudan in 2006. I travel a lot to New York for work; and I have relatives in Chicago and Maryland. Malaysia is also a land with a rich history of trade, the spices of that whole region was actually what had prompted the Spanish (Christopher Columbus) and the Portuguese (Magellan) to indulge in that race for the discovery of the east. We had Arab and Chinese merchants coming before that, and we were afterwards colonized by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English respectively. There are three main distinct cultures in Malaysia, the Indian, the Chinese and the Malays. And there is a tendency in Malaysia of assimilating different cultures and making it our own. I think all this makes me in a way open and curious to different types of cultures, stories, food and odor.

What obstacles did you face along the way?

I must say I have been really blessed, I did face obstacles but there were always solutions.

Paperwork like visas when you come from a country that isn’t well known can be a hassle; but with a big international company like Givaudan, problems like that can be solved. I was also very lucky to be chosen to do the internal Givaudan perfumery school in Grasse at a time when there were less people dreaming to do that job, I must say. We were a very mixed group with students from Singapore, Germany, Switzerland, the United States and France; although I must admit not being able to speak French fluently in the beginning was an obstacle to blend in and feel at ease. In fact I still do misunderstand French humour after all these years.

What do you consider your mission as a perfumer?

I really love my job as a perfumer, and I love talking about my different background and culture.

I love the fact that we live at a time where the whole world is open to different tastes and different smells. The world of food has seen a huge revolution with the fusion of various ingredients from all over the world. In a way this has also helped us I think in the perfumery world to introduce different scents. For me it is a subtle way of bringing people together; making the world smaller in a way, a huge melting pot where differences are appreciated instead of shunned. To be honest I never really thought of my job as a mission, but for me I really love the idea that fragrance is a poetic way of uniting people of different generations and different backgrounds; in the same way as music or food can.

What specific notes or ingredients do you love to work with the most?

I do love various types of smells; I am naturally drawn to things which somehow reminds me of home so I love ginger and nutmeg as spices, ylang ylang and jasmine as florals and benzoin which comes from that region of southeast Asia. But I also love ambrette seeds which somehow reminds me of the freshly made soya milk I used to drink as a kid.

And yet Tonka bean is something that I use a lot even though it has no connection to where I come from.

Why is the The Fragrance Foundation Diversity, Equity & Inclusion initiative important to you based on your experience, and for the future of the fragrance industry?

The fragrance industry is an industry where diversity is an absolute necessity. We are catering to people from all over the world in an era where distances are becoming smaller (virtually and also in terms of time for travel). It is also an industry which promotes beauty and to a certain extent brings poetry to this world; what better way to do it with members from different walks of life. A lot can still be done to encourage people from various backgrounds; through different ways of imparting information and knowledge of how our industry functions. This will surely make our industry a brighter and richer one. Which makes the initiatives of the Fragrance Foundation to promote diversity, equity and inclusion a very meaningful one.

LOC DONG, IFF

Having grown up in a small village outside of Saigon, and originally studying medicine, you had a very unusual path to becoming a perfumer. Can you share your story with us?

I like to think that my path into perfumery isn’t anything out of the ordinary, but more that it is a path and a career that found me versus me having to seek it out. I am a firm believer that for life to have luck and opportunity in it you must be at the right place at the right time. I was just at that right place being in America where you have freedom to be what you want to be with hard work and dedication.
 
How do you think your life experiences impact your work or style as a perfumer?

I believe that everything has a positive angle. Life evolves every second of every day and I take those chances to be creative, to listen, and to encourage others to dream. This year especially we are really focusing on being together and in it collectively, and I want to make sure we stay optimistic and authentic. I always trust that by living life through a hopeful lens, it has helped me to create happy fragrances. I have gratitude every day for being so fortunate to experience a life that includes a dream of impacting someone’s day. 

 
You are one of the first Asian fine fragrance perfumers in the industry. What does that mean to you?

Being multicultural is a blessing. I love that I can share or inform people about my culture and knowledge through my creations.  We must take into consideration different ingredients and different values and always with the utmost respect and understanding. I see a fine fragrance composition as an opportunity for a consumer to discover a new ingredient, to love it, to accept it and to learn about it. I tend to think of being a perfumer as a prospect to create fragrances for everyone in the world to wear and even more importantly, for everyone to LOVE.  

What do you consider your mission as a perfumer?

My mission is simple: To make the world happier through scent.

A fragrance is a necessity that is one of the best lifetime memories that one can have. If you think of a memory of someone or something, you will always remember the smell and in that one simple fact we have a purpose to infuse happiness wherever we can. 

Which of your fragrance creations thus far are you most proud of? 

I get this question a lot and to be honest every single fragrance that I create is a part of me. It’s very hard to pick an overall favorite of my career. I’m proud of everything that I have created and what I’m working on right now, might just be my newest favorite! 

Why is the The Fragrance Foundation Diversity, Equity & Inclusion initiative important to you based on your experience, and for the future of the fragrance industry?

For the last five to ten years, the world has come much closer than ever and I think it’s our job to bring more diversity to the world through fragrance and education. When you include a goal where diversity can be a vehicle of multicultural dimensions it allows us to honor the beautiful fact that there’s always a place for everyone. Diversity creates innovation and opens paths of appreciation, acceptance and embracing differences rather than rejecting them. Creating fragrances has taught me to look at the world through a lens where diversity and happiness reign over anything else; without it, we would rarely create the next best olfactive journey.

December 2020

Could this year be capped off more memorably? On December 15th, TFF President Linda G. Levy sat down (virtually) with the man most people consider to be the biggest name in the beauty business: Chairman Emeritus and former CEO of The Estée Lauder Companies, Leonard A. Lauder. In this incredible, very special Masterclass event, Lauder shared his memories of working with his mother Estée Lauder to build what is now a global corporation, and reflected on his experiences in business and in fragrance—even beyond what he has written about in his new, must-read book The Company I Keep: My Life in Beauty. Lauder, who was inducted into the TFF Hall of Fame in 1990 and was the inaugural honoree of TFF Circle of Champions Award in 2000, is so sought after for his guru-like advice that he has taken on the unofficial mantle of Chief Teaching Officer at the Estée Lauder Companies, and to have such an intimate audience with him was truly remarkable. Now, this issue of Accords goes even further, as Lauder was generous enough to expand on some of the Masterclass conversation topics and reflect on some of Estée Lauder’s most impactful moments in the history of perfume. 

Estée Lauder has had so many significant chapters in American fragrance history. You shared the story behind Beautiful and how it became a favorite for brides in the Masterclass. Can you tell us about the development of Pleasures, and why you think it became so popular?

My late wife, Evelyn, came up with several ideas for Estée Lauder products throughout her time with us. Many of these items are now considered staples, including Pleasures, one of our best-selling fragrances. Perhaps one of the reasons it became so popular was because it had her brilliance behind it. For those who don’t know, Evelyn took charge of training our beauty advisors and sales staff, and eventually created our training program with the knowledge she acquired from her experience. Thanks to her teaching background, it’s no surprise she was great at this! She always listened and digested the information and advice she received from her advisors and used this insight to enhance her work with new products. She later became the director of new products and marketing and oversaw the creation of Pleasures from start to finish. Her ability to listen to the direction from our sales team and advisors was likely why the fragrance became so popular—because it was guided by the advice of those on the shop floor!

White Linen was a pioneer in the idea of fragrance layering when it was first launched. How did that evolve?

Starting with Estée, we introduced a new fragrance almost every other year throughout the 1970s—including White Linen. Every fragrance has its own personality, but the point was, no matter what your preference, Estée Lauder had a scent for you. We wanted our consumers to be able to express themselves with our fragrances, using whichever product (or products!) fit their needs. The idea of having a plethora of options to choose from was appealing at the time, which is why we produced a new fragrance almost every other year. We didn’t stop there either. When White Linen matured, we came out with White Linen Breeze, a lighter version.

As an art collector, what similarities do you see between visual art and fragrance?

Everyone has a unique taste! Whether it’s fragrance or visual art, everyone has their own, distinct way of expressing themselves. Everyone is fascinated by something different—a smell, an image, a painting—different art forms speak to different people. It’s magical when you think about it!  

December 2020

Leonard Lauder’s page-turner of a memoir, The Company I Keep: My Life in Beauty, is essential for beauty junkies and aspiring moguls alike. The former CEO, who famously pens handwritten thank you notes on robin’s-egg-blue stationery, maintains that the secret to his success has been treating the company—including its employees and the brands it has acquired, including Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Kilian Paris, Le Labo, and Jo Malone—like family. He also writes thoughtfully about maintaining equilibrium and collaboration within the Lauder dynasty itself, nearly every member of which, from Leonard’s brother Ronald and son William to his nieces Jane and Aerin and even his grand-daughter, Danielle, have come on board to enhance and enlarge the house that Estée built. Here, Lauder reflects further on his business philosophies, and how a corporation can stay forever nimble. 

Fragrance is very personal. What is the key to devising scents that can be both very popular and very individual?

The key is to listen to the consumer! They will tell you everything they need.

You have talked about human nature versus marketing, and instinct versus strategy. Where is the line between the two, and how do you balance them?

These are very important concepts, and while they may seem like opposing ideas, they work hand-in-hand for successful business operations when balanced correctly. Marketing and strategy are two concepts you learn how to use successfully; human nature and instinct you experience. That said, I want to make one thing clear: one of the most important lessons I learned that would shape my career and my life inside and outside of the company was this: to trust my instincts. Instinct is something that is natural and ingrained, but also that has its foundation in experience. If you have enough experience, somewhere along the line, instinct will kick in—crossing the line from learned strategy to experienced instinct.

What is the key to keeping a business modern?

Never stop evolving! Never stop trying to elevate your game, to reach new heights, to explore the unknown. There is always learning that can be done, and a modern business is always evolving to learn what’s next.

December 2020

When you read The Company I Keep: My Life in Beauty, it’s impossible not to be astonished at the countless times both Estée Lauder herself  & the Estée Lauder Companies were first out of the gate with a new idea. From the introduction of a bath oil that became a fragrance sensation (Youth Dew, 1953) to launching the first-ever men’s prestige fragrance to be sold in department stores (Aramis, 1963), to the first hypoallergenic skincare regimen (Clinique, 1968) and custom-blend foundation (Prescriptives, 1979), the company was a trend-setter and gamechanger for consumers and other businesses alike. We can even credit Estée Lauder with changing the way that women thought about fragrance—as something to be bought for yourself, not received only as a gift—and for introducing the idea of the fragrance wardrobe. In the book’s pages and in TFF’s Masterclass, Leonard Lauder shares his memories about all of these seismic moments, but many in his audience will perhaps most cherish his “Life Lessons”—the key insights into what everyone who knows him admires: that he has proven it possible to run a business with kindness, graciousness, and generosity. Lauder has said that he thinks in decades, not years, and always has his eye on the future—perhaps the best lesson to close out 2020.

What has been the most gratifying feedback that you have received about The Company I Keep?

When people tell me they’ve learned so many lessons from the book, it makes my heart soar. I hope people come away from this memoir with inspiring stories, sharp observations and pragmatic lessons about leadership and life and a little bit of hope. Storytelling is the best way I know how to teach.

Were there moments, or stories that you wanted to relate, that didn’t make it into the final book?

Absolutely! If it were up to me, I would have a never-ending book—there are so many stories and moments and lessons that I have acquired over the years, but unfortunately, I couldn’t include them all or I’d still be writing! There’s always another, brighter chapter waiting to be written.

You are known for giving such insightful and meaningful advice. What is the best advice that someone else has given to you?

My mother drummed into me an important lesson from a very early age: “Everyone is a competitor or a potential competitor. You can’t ignore anyone.” This lesson has guided my business decisions through the years and has been key to our successes.

That said, I have learned from many people, both past and present, that we can always learn more and the best way to do that is through listening. If there’s one enduring lesson I hope this book gives readers, it’s the importance of listening!

December 2020

TFF Masterclass is an important event, as it is a major element tied to our objectives of nurturing talent and contributing to our role in fragrance education. On December 15th, the Masterclass with Leonard Lauder was an extraordinary global event for all of us in the fragrance community. Over 2000 tuned in live the day of the event. Since then, more than 1000 have tuned in to watch on our website to enjoy this hour of personal storytelling and major insights.  

For Accords December edition, the timing is just right to share even more from Leonard Lauder as we all experience a year end like never before. While we are challenged during this global pandemic, there is no better time to pause and reflect on personal and professional growth as well as the impact of fragrance in the world. This unique opportunity to learn first hand from Leonard Lauder how he grew up from his childhood highchair to the CEO seat in the boardroom is recorded in his recently published memoir, The Company I Keep.

 On a personal note, I was greatly honored to have and share this conversation with Mr. Lauder. I have reconnected with so many in the fragrance world who enjoyed and valued bringing this discussion into their living rooms, conference rooms and board rooms. The heartwarming reviews and gratifying feedback continue to arrive in my email and on Instagram, but please continue to share, as we conclude a year where we all learn to grow together. Mr. Lauder himself generously let me know that the wrap up of the program with  Louis Armstrong singing “What a Wonderful World“ was very moving for him. I join him in saying it is a wonderful world thanks to people like you!

Wishing all of you a healthy, safe, peaceful holiday season and  looking forward to a better world together in 2021!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

November 2020

One of the brilliant rays of light in 2020? This year marked the 20^th Anniversary of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, the perfume publishing house that revolutionized modern perfumery. When fragrance impresario Frédéric Malle decided to boldly embark on what was then a completely unheard-of business venture, he did so because he believed that it was time for perfumers, the unsung heroes of the industry, to finally get their due—and he knew that by giving them complete freedom, both financially and creatively, they would produce works of art destined to revitalize and galvanize the world of perfume. As we have seen, he was absolutely correct: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle creations such as Carnal Flower, Portrait of a Lady, and Musc Ravageur are now icons, and the idea that perfume should be recognized and cherished as a true art form (signed, of course, by its creators) is not merely accepted, but celebrated.

In honor of this milestone year, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle has issued seven perfumes in limited-edition bottles specially designed by Patrick Li. A retrospective book, published by Rizzoli, reveals the breadth of ambition and the accomplishments of this visionary undertaking. The Fragrance Foundation is also shining its spotlight on Malle, who was honored in 2018 with The Fragrance Foundation Gamechanger Award, and his perfumers. This month’s special webinar edition of The Creatives featured an intimate conversation between Malle and perfumer Carlos Benaïm with Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy, and here, Malle sat down with Accords to reflect on two decades at the top of his game.  

How did you first propose your idea to perfumers 20 years ago?

I was certain that it was a good idea, but I didn’t know how anyone would take it. Pierre Bourdon was one of the perfumers I was working with most closely at the time, and he was one of the most vocal perfumers against what was happening with marketing, against the fact that he was not working with people who had full power and knowledge of the industry. I came to him and said, I have a solution to your problem. I said, things are tough for you, but I think they’re also tough for the public and I would like to create a link between people who are not happy to have a choice only between smelling very mass market and smelling old. There was no such thing as contemporary perfumes of quality at that time.

So, the first meeting was with him. I had this idea of naming the perfumers because I felt that not only was it a good story, it was simple justice. He was fascinated. Then the one who always saw himself as an artist, as an author, was Jean-Claude Ellena. He just had his break with Bulgari Green Tea. He was a bit like Zaha Hadid in the sense that everybody considered him extraordinary, but he didn’t yet have the success that he deserved. He was very true to his commitment to being an artist perfumer with a specific writing and a specific philosophy. It was very natural for me to call him, though he was not the one I was most intimate with at that time. Jean-Claude was so enthusiastic about the idea of being given carte blanche that he said, ‘I’ll do one every year for you.’ Then I called Edouard Flechier who was another huge star. I knew that he would do it out of friendship, because he’s so generous and so kind. So now I had the three most prominent perfumers in the industry backing my project.  I went progressively to complete the list of those first nine perfumers.

I knew from the beginning what the bottle design would be. That was part of the initial conversation that I had with each of them. I showed them what it would look like. I also knew that making such specific perfumes would only work if I went back to full service, not what Sephora was doing with no service. In nine months, literally from September to launching in June, I found the store, designed the store, invented a modern version of a classic perfumery where people feel comfortable and could be helped by true experts to find a perfume matching their character and their desires. The very nature of this enterprise called for an entire reorganization of the business. I even had to have my own distribution. It went deeper and deeper.

Did anyone tell you that you were crazy?

No, because I’m a very secretive person and I did not talk to anyone—especially my mother, who had been in this business for many years and who would have never believed in this. And the people who were addressing the business in a way I felt was wrong—I didn’t want to have a conversation about what I was doing with any of them, for fear of diluting my energy. I was very sure what I was doing. It was very clear in my head, and I didn’t want to pollute that. I only called a handful of people, including Christian Louboutin who was always a maverick and extremely bright, and even though we do things differently I always admired how independent he is.

How quickly after you opened could you tell that the concept was working?

One thing that really amazed me when we opened was how supportive the French press was and then the international press. I remember having a huge article in ELLE France. And I had an article in every single daily paper. We opened in June and in July couture happened as it always does and all the big buyers from the department stores came to visit. Each individual entrance was like a movie. People from Barneys explaining to me who they were and what Barneys was, and being so modest; Burt Tansky from Neiman’s having his entourage come earlier to make sure that the store was cleaned. Burt comes out of his limousine with a bodyguard. I couldn’t stop laughing. It was so funny. But they all came, and I was very happy about that.

Everything was ahead of plan, but I didn’t sell more than I expected. It worked as I hoped, but I thought that with the amount of press I would have sold more. It takes a while before things kick in. The smallest article two years later was much more effective than this amazing launch that we had that friends and families were impressed by. That was really interesting. And it made me understand that you can’t rush things. You have to show who you are first. So, things went better than planned as far as communication is concerned. And as planned, as far as sales are concerned.

Our opening in America at Barneys was delayed due to 9/11. We opened in the springtime rather than before Christmas. It wasn’t wow within five minutes, but it was wow within six months. We became kings of the floor.

What was the first bestseller?

Musc Ravageur.  What’s interesting with Musc Ravageur, which is a bit like the story of Cool Water, is that it was exactly opposite of the prevailing trend. In those days, Dior J’Adore was It. We were just finishing with the L’eau d’Issey type of trend. Transparent florals were all over the market. And this uncompromising non-floral amber oriental seemed very classic to me, although generous and opulent and incredible, completely against trend. But sex appeal is always there. It’s not because you have a wave of purity that people stop having sex and stop wanting to seduce—and surely enough, it became a very well shared secret on the Left Bank. Men and women alike came to wear Musc Ravageur. It gave us this modern Guerlain type of image right away in France, sexy but quality perfume, which is what the respectable French person is after. That did a lot for us.

Were there fragrances that surprised you because they were best sellers or because they were not?

Yes. La Parfum de Therese. It has always been seen by people in our industry to be a masterpiece. Someone like Pierre Bourdon will tell you it’s a great perfume of the century. Roudnitska’s wife gave it to me. It’s one of my prides in this collection. I thought, it’s going to make millions for us.  But in fact it was probably too sophisticated to become our best seller. You learn when you do these things.

I also sold Musc Ravageur mostly as a feminine perfume in the beginning, because being heterosexual I sort of projected that I’d love to be with a girl that smells like this. Then all of the sudden I saw hordes of men wearing it, and I thought to myself how stupid I am. I didn’t see that.

It’s interesting that the consumer can teach you these things.

Yes and it did a lot for the way we sell. I have always told sales people not to have preconceived ideas and to follow the customers instinctually. They should use those perfumes like a palette of different colors that would suit the people that they have in front of them. Don’t think this is for men and  this for women, just give them what they feel comfortable with. We’re not there to tell people how to seduce, but to help them, with the instruments we have created. The perfumes are almost like weapons of seduction.

What guided your selection of which perfumes got the beautiful limited-edition treatment by Patrick Li?

Sales is one element, but I also wanted diversity because I think one of the beauties of our collection is how eclectic it is.. From an En Passant to a Musc Ravagaur to a Portrait of a Lady, you have extremely different perfumes.. What this collection expresses what we have done in the sense that I have never tried to impose my style. I have a few principles, but it’s not a style. Just as when I go to the Met, I like Van Eyck as much as I like Pollak or Rembrandt or Mondrian, I don’t have a preset idea about what type of perfume we should publish, just as long as they are very good and best in class.

In doing this, we have made those very, very specific perfumes. And sometimes as if, in sports terms you hit a home run; in a more spiritual way, you’ve been touched by grace. And all of a sudden there’s a little miracle that’s happening where one of those very specific perfumes touches a much wider audience than it should. We have been blessed by that a few times. And these are the perfumes that are the most successful. Musc Ravageur was certainly that. Portrait of a Lady was a perfume that I thought might be too difficult because it’s so sophisticated. And I wasn’t sure how well it would do, but I had to publish it because it was so beautiful. But it touched a wider audience than I ever imagined.

Something that I’m super proud of is that they have stood the test of time. Musc Ravageur is 20 years old, but I wore it today and it hasn’t aged a minute. There’s a reason for that: none of these have made the little compromises of adding materials that make them a little bit easier, because there are raw materials everyone uses at a certain time which is a sure way to make something that becomes dated quite quickly. The collection is a way of saying that we have really managed to make things that are timeless, diverse, and have touched a wide audience.

What was your approach to the book?

It was fun. I always wanted this book to be like a scrapbook and to be walking down the memory lane. I’m not a nostalgic person, but for once, I was ready to look back and sort of have a look at what I had done in the past 20 years. And as if I were doing a book to leave to my children literally. That was really what I had in mind.

What do you think might surprise people and what might they learn about you or that they wouldn’t have known?

I don’t know, to be honest. What I was surprised by when I saw all of this myself was how much we had done in 20 years. I never congratulate myself, but when I opened the book, I must say I was impressed. I thought, this is a lot. So many adventures.

So, I don’t know what will surprise people. I suppose at a moment where everybody is so specialized, especially in those big perfume companies, the fact that I’m seeing this job as a whole, like being good like a conductor who knows how to play each instrument, might be surprising. To be good, you have to know about glass making, know about printing, know how to design, know how to do accounting, know about distribution.

Given this time to look back and see what you’ve done, what do you feel most proud of?

It’s always perfumers. What I’m most proud of is the beginning of our conversation, the fact that they all followed me. And this is also what committed me to taking this huge risk of putting everything I had into this adventure, regardless of the fact that I already had three children and that if I had to talk to people, they would have said that I was crazy. What I’m also proud of in retrospect is the example that we set for the industry, including the fact that perfumers are now considered true authors. I have participated in creating what perfumery looks like in its present form. I wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t say that I’m proud of that.

November 2020

IFF Master Perfumer Carlos Benaïm is a true legend. Hailed by Frédéric Malle as the greatest American perfumer, he is the creator of a slew of instantly recognizable blockbusters, including Polo Green, Polo Blue, Calvin Klein Eternity for Men, Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds, Viktor & Rolf Flower Bomb, and YSL Libre. He is also one of Malle’s most prolific collaborators. As much to his surprise as to everyone else’s, his work with Malle began not with the invitation to create a bottled fragrance, but rather a collection of candles—the first wax-and-wick line-up, it would transpire, in the Editions de Frédéric Malle repertoire. Though Benaïm’s considerable expertise was in fine fragrance, not home scent, he took up the challenge—and the world’s rooms have been unforgettably transformed by the beauty of his creations. Here, the Morocco-born perfumer, who in 2014 received The Fragrance Foundation Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement Award,  talks to Accords about his journey with Frédéric Malle on the occasion of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle’s 20^th birthday.

What originally made you want to become a perfumer?

My father was a pharmacist and a botanist. He was very interested in going through the mountains and the fields in Morocco and looking for plants that he could distill for pharmaceutical purposes. With him, I was able to see how distillation works—how you get the essences of plants—and that whole process brought me to perfumery from the ground up, not from being from a family of perfumers.

To be a perfumer was not in my radar. It was only something that I became interested in after the first year of engineering school, when I needed to do an internship. I was sent to Grasse through one of my father’s contacts where he used to sell his raw materials, and when I arrived, the chemist that I was supposed to work with had gone sailing and didn’t come back until the day before I left. Nobody knew what to do with me, so they just put me in a room with all the raw materials, naturals and synthetics, each one in those old-fashioned brown bottles with handwritten labels. I spent a month smelling. And through that I developed so much curiosity about the field of perfumery that I eventually took the plunge.

How did that unconventional beginning, and your studies in chemical engineering, affect your path as a perfumer?

It doesn’t hurt to have a chemistry background to understand the ingredients like chemists do, but fine perfumery is more of an artistic creation. When I basically abandoned chemistry at age 22 to go into an artistic career, it was a big step because it’s a completely different discipline, and it takes five to 10 years to know whether you’ll make something out of it.

I learned, not from a school, because I didn’t have any opportunities like that at that time, but more like the old masters used to teach their apprentices. I was invited to work in New York with Ernest Shiftan, who was the Chief Perfumer of IFF and had just retired to open a perfumery school. But it was not a classic perfumery school. It was more, “You learn by doing it next to me.” After that, I went to Paris for two or three years to continue because I had to get my visa. During that time, I worked with Max Gavarry, who was a Chief Perfumer in Paris, and we did a lot of the classical way of learning, which is to study all the classics in perfumery, just by smelling. I couldn’t wait to get to do real work in perfumery, but that only came when I arrived back in New York, and I started working with Bernard Chant, who was the Chief Perfumer then. I worked with him for 15 years as his right hand, and I just learned as I went along.

How did you first meet Frédéric?

I met Frédéric when he came to me to ask me to create a whole line of candles for the home for him. I had never done candles. I was very frank with him. I said, “Listen, you’re asking me to do something I’ve never done in my life. Are you sure you want to do this?” He insisted. He said, “No, this is an opportunity to put your imagination to work. You’ll have no constraints of price. Just try to do something beautiful.”

When you start working with him, it just becomes long conversations about everything and anything, while you are doing experimentation. By the time the lab is weighing what you’ve done, you talk architecture, you talk artistry, you talk France, you talk family, you talk anything. It was the beginning of a friendship that lasts today.

What was your process in creating the first collection?

I worked on them one at a time but they were introduced together—Jurassic Flower, Rosa Rugosa, Casablanca Lily… I wanted to bring a novel approach to this whole development. Frédéric and I both really admired one of the heads of research of IFF, an Indian man, Dr. Braja Mookherjee, who had been a brilliant, very religious man, who invented the Living Flower technology. So, I thought, why not take that headspace technology and develop candles based on the smell of those flowers in their natural environment.

How different was it for you to work on candles instead of perfume?

It’s very different in the sense that what counts is how the essential oils and the ingredients burn, not how much they smell when they are just freshly incorporated in the candle. And that is all technology that was really not my specialty. You want to create the feeling in the air of that flower when it burns without smelling the smoke. That was a challenge, and with enough experimentation we were able to do it.

Was there ever any discussion about making any of those into fragrances?

Yes, some did become fragrances. Eau de Magnolia came from Jurassic Flower. Jurassic Flower was such a success in the stores that the idea came naturally. But one thing is to have the smell of a flower, and another thing is to make a perfume that people can put on skin, that wears well, that has a beginning and an end and a beautiful sensual feeling. It’s one or two years of work before it becomes a real fragrance.

Another example was the candle calleafé Society. That started as a very sensual accord that I had made with patchouli and lavender. It was in my drawer and I had not shown it to people, but I showed it to Frédéric, and we made a candle out of it. A few years later, Frédéric suggested we go back and make it into a fragrance. That became Music for A While. In order to be a fragrance, it needed to be softened and surrounded by notes to make it prettier and sweeter, all those little things that you need to do to make a note that has a lot of character into something that people can wear more easily.

What do you think that Frédéric has done for perfumers and for the way that people perceive perfume?

The most important one is putting the name of the perfumer on the bottle because, previously, perfumers were ignored. They didn’t exist, basically. They were like ghost writers. What existed was the brand or the designer, but who were the creators? Nobody knew.

Frédéric broke the rules and started putting the name on the bottle and all of a sudden, the perfumer was celebrated. They were recognized, they had faces. The press fell in love with them. Everybody wanted to know who they were. And for the perfumer, that has been like a liberation. What Frédéric did was revolutionary and a big gift to the perfumers.

The second thing that he did that was very important was to bring back perfumery to the level of quality it had 50 years ago. He said, “You can create without any price constraint,” meaning use whatever ingredients you want. You could use sandalwood from India, you could use the best roses from Turkey or Morocco, anything. The main thing is that you be creative. That approach puts the perfumer front and center because the perfumer becomes very responsible. If your name is there, it’s your creativity that is at stake and your reputation. That was smart. And for the perfumers and the industry, it was a great advance.

You and Frédéric are aligned in your belief that ingredients shouldn’t be the main way that fragrances are presented. Can you explain?

The ingredient story was something people thought would impress the consumer. Somebody came up with the idea, “Oh, you have to give three top notes, three middle notes, three back notes,” but that’s not what a fragrance is. A fragrance is the intention of the perfumer. As with any art. What did the artist want to accomplish? Whether he used blue or yellow or green, it’s fine, but that’s not the point. The point is, what emotion did you want to get out of it? Is there any special theme that you have for your composition? Could be one thing, could be three things. It doesn’t need to be an ingredient. It could be the smell of autumn, and that’s it. I don’t need to tell you that I used the smell of a burned leaf. To me, that’s irrelevant.  The ingredients by themselves don’t paint the picture, the artist does. 

November 2020

DOMINIQUE ROPION, Master Perfumer, IFF

How is your creative process when working with Frédéric unique? 

One of the unique aspects of the collaboration with Frédéric is the luxury of time. There is no deadline. We consider the creation process complete, once it’s complete. There is no rush to launch, and until we’re both satisfied we’ve reached our goal, we keep modifying… and we’re both demanding enough that thousands of trials are necessary. There is also the luxury of knowing each other, and having worked together, for over 35 years. Frédéric is a genuine aesthete, and the history we have of working together is quite unique. 

What has working with Frédéric brought to your life and career? 

A career is made of every single one of our experiences, all the perfumes created. Of course, Frédéric is a major milestone, but I really consider each new development as a new milestone.

 Of your many iconic creations for Editions de Parfums, which is your favorite or which are you proudest of?

 It’s impossible to answer that question. I love each and every one of them, there isn’t one I would disown! Each allowed me to reach the absolute end of each creative exercise. Of course, some are more successful than others, but this is not a criteria of likeability or even pride for me! 

MAURICE ROUCEL, Master Perfumer, Symrise

How is your creative process when working with Frédéric unique?

The most unique thing about working with Frédéric is his allowance of total freedom of expression, which I really appreciate.  The partnership is also unique.  Working with him is like playing a game of tennis; you can’t do it alone.  It’s a true collaboration in which he always provides very precise and impactful feedback that is precious to the creative process.  

How do you describe your style as a perfumer? 

To me, a raw material is for perfumery what a note is for music or a color is for painting.  If I were to describe my perfumery style in terms of painting, I would say it is similar to fauvism; an expression of my impression of the things that inspire me, using bold colors and wild brushstrokes.  It doesn’t have to be so literal.

How has Editions de Parfums changed the way that perfumers are perceived, and the way people understand perfumery, over the past 20 years?

Frédéric was a visionary in his way of working with perfumers and the first to really highlight them all the way through to the bottle.  He also developed unique and novel ways of explaining and experiencing perfumery, including the signature smelling columns that he has in all of his boutiques.  He is an expert in the field and has established a perfect blend between technical proficiency, poetry and philosophy. For two decades, he has remained true to this vision, focusing on the juice rather than the packaging and marketing of the scent.

November 2020

It was my great honor to moderate the first virtual Creatives event on November 20th for an audience of more than 1200 viewers. All of us gained insights into the creative process & the special bond between Frédéric Malle, Perfumer Publisher & Carlos Benaïm, Master Perfumer, IFF.

This event was, as we all say during this global pandemic, a big “pivot” from the original 2020 plans. When the perfume publishing house held its September Perfume Summit in Paris, Carlos was not able to participate in person. So I was inspired to define TFF Creatives as a celebration of Frédéric’s 20th anniversary of his brand with him in New York City & his star USA Perfumer Carlos. Up until a few weeks prior to the event, our plan was for the three of us to have a discussion in person at the brand’s Madison Avenue boutique. Once again a plan had to be adjusted as we could not meet in person. I must admit we were all disappointed to not be physically together, but the virtual event was possibly even more meaningful, as we appreciated getting together after months of separation. The kinship between Frédéric & Carlos, based on their friendship & creativity together, is so in sync, the discussion was truly inspiring. Our locations may have been separated by miles, but the warmth was palpable & for me it was so smooth a conversation that it flowed naturally. I was merely leading a conversation that was part of an ongoing exchange spanning decades.

This edition of Accords contains several subjects highlighted during the event in more depth, as well as additional content. As April Long, our editor, spoke with Frédéric & Carlos separately, they had even more to share that is unique to each of them. Also we were delighted to include a few other star perfumers of the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle brand: Dominique Ropion & Maurice Roucel to add their insights as the 20th anniversary celebration continues.

Our last topic was how fragrance is integrated into our current  lifestyles & its overall future.  Frédéric and Carlos shared respectively an increased presence of fragrance as soothing, comforting and transportive plus  a redefined and expanding ingredient palette used in new perfumes. All of this will be revealed by young talented perfumers, leaving us with much to look forward to indeed!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

October 2020

Teri Johnson is a natural storyteller. In her former work as a content creator in the travel space, she wove tales of far-flung locales and the allure of experiencing the world at large. But it was closer to home—in founding Harlem Candle Company—that her stories truly came into their own. Inspired by the energy and atmosphere of the Harlem Renaissance, the brand’s first collection featured meticulously researched and wildly evocative scents that paid homage to such figures as James Baldwin, Langston Hughes, and Duke Ellington. Housed in luxurious glass keepsake vessels, the candles conjure the elegance and sophistication of days past, but with a truly modern sensibility. Here, Johnson reveals her vision for the expanding brand, and why officially joining the fragrance community is a dream come true.

How did you start making candles?

I have always loved beautiful fragrances. The very first time I smelled a Diptyque candle many years ago, I was so moved by the fragrance that I bought it and candles became my affordable luxury. No one at my age at that time was spending $60 on a candle, but that was where I would much rather spend my money than on a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes or a designer handbag. For me, it was candles because it’s about the constant, feel-good effect of fragrance. It’s long lasting and it’s beautiful and it makes me happy.

It really started there, just understanding what luxurious fragrances can do to you and do to your mood. Then I happened to meet a chemist, maybe about seven years ago, who had created fragrance oils for different candle companies and had worked for different perfumers. He gave me some fragrance oils and I used them to make candles for friends and family for Christmas. I had so much fun figuring out what I was going to call each candle and how I was going to package each candle and who was going to get what, based on the things I thought they would like the most. At the time it was not the Harlem Candle Company because it wasn’t a company. I called it La Maison Des Bougies de Teri, Teri’s House of Candles, and I put them in little craft boxes with some stickers that I printed on my printer. It was cute. People really, really loved it and they saw the thought I put into it. They all told me: You should do this.

Were you surprised to find that you had a nose for scents?

For a lot of my friends and family, I’m the one who chooses their perfume. I will choose it for them because I know what mixes best with their body chemistry and I’ve always gotten such great feedback. I had a friend who had worn the same perfume since college but I knew it wasn’t right for her, so once when we were shopping I had her try on several perfumes on different parts of her arms just to see what she might like. There was one that was beautiful on her so I convinced her to buy it, and she came back to me and said, ‘Teri, you changed my life. I’ve never gotten so many compliments on how good I smell.’ I was like, “Yeah, I think I’m kind of good at this.” If I had more time I would love to do that on the side.

What brought you to connecting the inspiration of the Harlem Renaissance with candles?

Once I started making candles beyond just giving them to friends and family, I started selling at local pop-ups here in Harlem, and I decided to change the name to Harlem Candle Company. I realized then that I couldn’t just make lavender and vanilla candles. If I was using the name Harlem, it had to be of significance. I’ve always loved the Harlem Renaissance period—the art and the literature and the music and even how people carried themselves. Everything about it. I felt like this would be the best way to pay homage to all the greats who have come before us, like Langston Hughes, James Baldwin, Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington. It was also just a great way for me to deepen my knowledge about these people and to help share pieces of history through fragrance. I felt like this is a really cool way to just kind of preserve the legacy of Harlem and what made Harlem so special back in the 20’s and the 30’s and to do it through a fragrance. I wanted it to be really elegant and I wanted it to personify these people in some way.

How do you go about creating the scents?

I do a lot of research to understand my subject. Who was Langston Hughes? What did he love? What inspired him? How did he work? Did he smoke? So, we put tobacco notes in there and we learned that he spent a lot of time in Mexico. His father actually relocated to Mexico, and he went with him and would spend time in these really small churches in Mexico that were candlelit and dusky with incense burning. And while his friends were playing soccer, he didn’t want to play soccer, so he’d just go into the churches and just hang out there. So we put incense in the candle. He also did much of his work really late at night, so I wanted that sort of after dark scent,  like Harlem nights. There’s some leather and some smokiness and just something that’s just sexy. I communicate all of those things to the perfumers that I work with and they’re so fun. They just run with it, they’re amazing. They do their own research on top of mine, and they know even the notes that were in the sweet tobacco during that time period. Their level of knowledge is so awesome.

It’s fun to see people’s reactions when they smell the Duke Ellington and they’re like, “Something about this reminds me of my grandfather.” We wanted to ask, how did men scent themselves? What was that classic gentleman walking in Harlem wearing? Was it this kind of bay leaf? We look at what  fragrance notes were prominent during that time, and then we make it fun and sexy and exciting for today.

How did your work in travel and design enhance what you do now?

I was producing, hosting, and creating video content and content for different brands, different tourism boards, car companies, and hotel chains. Inspiring people to travel to cool destinations. I don’t think I would have had so much appreciation for the smell of a destination, especially a place that I love because sometimes you might smell a flower or smell something, and it takes you back to that place. I do like to travel with all of my senses wide open. I started traveling at such a young age and I’ve lived abroad a few times, so traveling and just being in other places and experiencing different cultures has always been a really big part of my life. I love everything that comes with it, from the different foods and the way the language sounds to the smells and spices of the food.

The vessels themselves are very beautiful. Why was that such an important attribute for the candles to have?

I wanted to create something that was timeless. Something that you can see now, and you can see in 20 years when it still has this elegance. I was very thoughtful when it came to the logo. If you look in the H, in the logo, it looks like it’s a flame, but it’s also a person. You can see the head in the middle and the person has their arms up almost like in prayer and almost like in a yoga position. It represents unity, community and love. I feel like no matter where we go in the world, those are things that are important to everyone. And  I am very inspired by the Art Deco period. You can see it in the gold braiding and that rich sort of deep gold. I just wanted it to be elegant, and I wanted it to really represent the people that I’m celebrating.

What have been the biggest challenges you faced as an indie brand?

The biggest challenge is being self-funded. You can only grow so fast and you’re just reinvesting the money back into the business constantly. You want to grow so much faster, but you must be really thoughtful and careful. And then of course, production. Everything started out getting made in my kitchen and then we outgrew that. So, finding the right manufacturing partners who are able to understand and who are ready to grow with us was a challenge.

How has social media helped you grow?

The look of our social media reflects the brand ethos, and it has consistency.  People look at it and they can  get the brand right away.  I think those are extremely important things, but I think people also like to know that you are active on social media. Before they buy from us they like to see that we’re active, we’re posting, we’re doing Instagram Lives. That gives people a little bit more comfort when they are purchasing from a new company, because we’ve been doing these Facebook and Instagram ads, reaching people who might have never heard of the Harlem Candle Company before.

It’s been fun. I don’t feel like we’re ever going to run out of content because it’s not just candles, it’s candles, it’s history, it’s celebrating different people and it’s also interior design, I love that, because our candles complement so many spaces. I think because the brand is about storytelling and that we really do love beautiful spaces and design, it makes doing social media a lot of fun.

How does it feel to be a new member of the Fragrance Foundation?

It’s exciting. I feel like, “Ooh, I’m official.” When I was 18, I was a freshman in college and I was in this development class and one of the requirements they had for us was write out a hundred things you want to accomplish in life. And of course at 18 you think okay, this is the stupidest exercise ever, but I’m just going to do it just to show I did it, but once you’ve gotten to like 20, you’re like, “What? Now I’m just making stuff up.” So I’m just making things up. But you realize that the exercise is actually really quite good because it’s stuff that subconsciously you might not have ever really given thought to. It’s things that have just been in the back of your mind. And one of those things I wrote down was, I’d like to have my own perfume. I’ve always wanted to be in the fragrance industry. I just had no idea how I was ever going to get there. And I never made any conscious steps to do it. The things have all presented themselves when the time was right. It’s really fun to say, ‘Now I’m part of the Fragrance Foundation.’ But it’s not a surprise at all to people who’ve known me for a long time.

@harlemcandlecompany

October 2020

How do you create a super-cool, millennial-friendly candle? In the case of Matthew Herman and David Kien of Boy Smells, it was simply by following their noses. The business and life partners were disillusioned with the way they saw scents being gendered, and—through kitchen-sink experimentation, hard work, and laser-focus vision—they set out to build a company that would appeal to, and embrace, everyone. With colorful vessels that pop on Instagram, out-of-the-box aromas such as Rhubarb Smoke and Cashmere Kush, and a witty, engaging approach to social media, Boy Smells quickly made good on that initial premise, and, since 2016, the brand has grown exponentially, embarking on high-profile celebrity collaborations and even introducing an “Unmentionables” underwear line (with more exciting news to be revealed in the coming weeks). As the brand meets another goal post in joining the Fragrance Foundation, Herman discusses the secrets to Boy Smells’ success.

What was the original spark, for you and David, behind Boy Smells?

David, my real-life and business partner, and I created Boy Smells in 2016 as an experiment in our home in Los Angeles. At that time, we were both drawn to fragrances that were more traditionally labelled as feminine, and also noticed that many of our girlfriends were drawn to more masculine notes. So we wanted to approach scent in a way that broke the traditional gender norms. As we moved in this direction, the “genderless” caption to beauty and wellness products didn’t resonate with us in the way we saw ourselves. Coming from previous careers in the fashion industry and also engaged in LGBTQ+ activism, we were seeing trends across industries move in the gender defying direction, but felt that there could be a better way the fashion and beauty industries should approach it. In 2016, we ditched our day jobs in pursuit of our passion: Boy Smells, a company that speaks directly to expanding gender identity in fragrance, adopting the term GENDERFUL. Genderful is a celebration of all different ways people identify gender identity and expression, recognizing that neither is static. 

What was the idea behind the name and how is that reflected in how you wanted to position yourselves and your messaging?

The name Boy Smells came to us as the perfect juxtaposition to our signature pink packaging, purposefully poking fun at gendering. It teases that what you’d find inside will defy norms and challenge the usual binary trenches often associated with scent.  

As gateways to gender expanding olfactive moments, we blend the traditionally “masculine” and “feminine” to capture the complexities that come with modern identity. The implication is to harness your power from wherever you find it. Something as simple as a candle has the potential to reflect the quickly evolving and a drastic reimagining of identity that is underway in society; and we saw an opportunity to contribute to the social discourse around gender by creating Boy Smells. 

How did you first go about getting the candles into the marketplace?

We showed the collection to our families, real and chosen, and sent samples to our friends in the fashion industry. In our first year we were in some of the best directional boutiques. From there it happened quite organically.

Your social media is how many of us found (and fell in love with) Boy Smells. How would you describe the aesthetic? What was on your mood board when you envisioned it?  

The success of our brand on social media was a complete surprise to us, and not something we master-minded. I hope, though, that it speaks to the spirit of our brand: fun, provocative, and progressive; something that resonates with today’s consumers.

While our pink label became more iconic than we could have ever imagined, we love seeing it in homes all over the world, dressing vanities, coffee tables, bedside tables, what have you. It’s always a thrill to see our customers posting about us on their social channels, just as they’d post an outfit, beauty routine, or a new piece of furniture.

What has social media, and the connection it fosters, brought to the brand?

It has helped us connect and build community. And, we now view it as an essential part of the brand. Social media has been hugely impactful in communicating our purpose-driven messaging, and we love that our brand can stand for more than just expecting a good fragrance. It is an intimate relationship we get to develop with our customers.

What was the process in creating the early fragrances?

Our very first scent, Kush, a cannabis-inspired scent, continues to be our #1 selling candle. Its long-term success took us from indie newcomers to an established brand with a known hit product.  We mixed all of our original fragrances at home and have since reworked them to be clean formulations with more refined olfactive balance.

How do you go about working with perfumers?

We work with fragrance houses Robertet and Firmenich, and each relationship is unique. We usually start with a brief. I like to use visual briefs of photography, graphic design, architecture, furniture, sculpture, wherever conveys the emotion we want the scent to occupy. We also start with a laundry list of fragrance notes we’d like to explore. I like to think of it as a conversation and collaboration.

What do collaborations – such as Slow Burn – mean to the brand?

We have been so excited to introduce two noteworthy collaborations thus far in 2020, the first of which being with Kacey Musgraves. Upon its debut in early February, the spiced and smokey Slow Burn candle sold out in less than 24 hours and generated an eager waitlist of over 15,000 people. The Slow Burn candle was the first ever musical artist collaboration for the Boy Smells brand as well as Kacey’s first major brand collaboration, bringing her creativity and great tastes to the complex world of fragrance. Our launch event at PUBLIC in NYC created a huge media moment that opened us up to an entirely new audience and the collaboration has sold out multiple times since. 

Another keystone moment was the launch of the PRIDE Collection this June, benefitting The Trevor Project. We partnered with 6 unique luminaries to ignite a campaign spanning diverse ethnicities, backgrounds, and industries who are breaking down boundaries towards universal acceptance for the LGBT community.  Each of the six ambassadors––including fashion model Richie Shazam, R&B rising star Rileyy Lanez, drag superstar Naomi Smalls, dancer Harper Watters, musical artist VINCINT and actor & musician Alex Newell, –– embodied their own hyper-hued candle from the limited collection to open the conversation about embracing one’s full spectrum identity. 

Why did you decide to also introduce underwear?

We view candles and underwear as objects you intimately relate to, integral to one’s personal care routine and identity. The objects we hold closest to us, candles, fragrance, underwear, should reflect our most authentic selves, before we put on our uniforms for the roles we play in the world. We always knew our next step after candles would be underwear, due to the fact that it’s perhaps the most gendered item out there. The way we label our underwear allows for the purchaser to decide how they relate to the product, we don’t dictate that. It’s effortless and uncomplicated, no shame in our Unmentionables collection. Everyone participates in their own way.

With underwear, perhaps more than any other category, binary ideas of gender are used in marketing to consumers  In our newly relaunched Unmentionables collection, each style and color is available with either a “Pouch Front” or “Flat Front,” shifting the conversation away from gender labels to the right fit and end usage for the customer. No matter how you define yourself, Unmentionables is here to support your comfort and confidence. 

What challenges have you faced as an independent brand?

At the onset of the pandemic as stores began to close, we found ourselves with close to 100% off our wholesale orders canceled. On top of that, our supply chain quickly came to a screeching halt with components coming from both Northern Italy and China. The early success we had experienced since the start of the year, along with our Q2 sales projections, seemed like they would no longer be a reality. We knew it was time to go back to basics and connect with our customer through a DTC-focused model. 

We have an amazing team, and we all learned how to pivot quickly and adapt our sales model to fit the current economic landscape. DTC took off significantly, hovering at about 1200% above last year!

What does it mean to you to officially join the fragrance community with the Fragrance Foundation? 

We couldn’t be more excited to become a part of this community. Despite not starting our careers in the fragrance industry, we have been so welcomed by all of our partners and TFF.

What is your vision for the future of Boy Smells? 

As we grow, we will continue to activate this conversation around identity expression with everyday products used to reaffirm and feel good. Our goal is to turn all of our daily routines into rituals of self-realization. There are exciting plans in the works for new product categories, with scents that go beyond anything we’ve ever done before.

@boy__smells

October 2020

Brianna Lipovsky started Maison d’Etto with a very unusual concept: She wanted to create scents inspired by horses. While this may at first sound hyper-specific, her vision is anything but: Maison d’Etto’s unique and evocative fragrances are olfactive snapshots of time and place that open up worlds to those who smell them. Lipovsky sees fragrance as a vehicle for making connections—bringing people closer to themselves, to others, and to nature—while the overarching Maison d’Etto mission is to bring more moments of beauty (and beautiful objects) into our everyday lives. Since launching last year, the luxurious, gender-neutral collection has become a favorite among the fashionably in-the-know, and it continues to win hearts apace. “We are in the stage where we can take risks, use insanely expensive ingredients and roll the dice,” says Lipovsky. Here, she shares with Accords what guides her aesthetic, and what we can expect from Maison d’Etto going forward.  

You began with scent memories from your life’s equestrian experiences—why were those so meaningful to you, and how did that lead you to creating Maison d’Etto?

Horses have been a constant in my life from the age of five. I didn’t grow up in an equestrian family but the vast majority of my life outside of schooling and in my adult years, work was spent with or around horses, riding and competing. I sacrificed so much to have a “normal” city life and a horse life. Instead of going to the fashion shows, gallery openings or other social engagements, I spent most of my free time driving and/or flying to practice and compete. After having my daughter and seeing how brands were really fragmenting around psychographic niches vs just demographics I felt that it was my time to build and create something around my two passions – horses and scent – combined with my background in luxury, fashion and design. I have had close to 35 years of intimate experiences with these animals and so many amazing stories, experiences and personalities that I could deeply dive into creatively with authenticity and truth. It served as an incredible platform for me to create from but make something that was profound enough that it could really speak to anyone and serve as a metaphor. We don’t translate any of these scents directly. It’s not like we’re saying what horse X smelled like; we paint a picture based on a day or a few days, the horse’s personality, the setting, a special place or experience. 

I look at each individual fragrance as a piece of art and each collection as an exhibit. So the brand Maison d’Etto is about inspiring moments of connection, reflection, well-being and nurturing the human spirit one moment at a time. Our first collection, “Connection to Self,” is represented by 5 horses that had huge pivotal impacts on my life. Our next collection is titled, “Connection to Nature” and it will feature stories that took place on horseback but immersed in nature. The fragrance that will launch for holidays took place in the French Pyrenees on a very special palomino mare, who’s name I can’t share for another few weeks ;).

You had a very clear sense from the beginning not only about how you wanted the scents to smell but how you wanted them to look and fit into people’s environments. What inspired this vision?

Yes, we did not come at this from a traditional beauty or fragrance perspective at all. That was very important to me. We drew inspiration from art, architecture, and design as well as a unique interpretation of the contemporary equestrian lifestyle, which is extremely nomadic. I not only wanted to be known for our fragrances but our packaging and the entire Maison d’Etto experience. Knowing how transitional many of our clients are we wanted everything to be not only beautiful, an object of art in and of itself, but also practical, and portable. I worked with the insanely talented and world-renowned graphic and product designer Lotta Nieminen as well as space and interior designer Olivia Song to help ensure that our products are adding an aesthetic value to each client’s life space and home. 

The packaging is extremely considered. I wanted to create something sustainable and beautiful but not just for the sake of sustainability. So for example, we could create sustainable, recyclable but inevitably throw-away D2C packaging or we could create something with wonderful quality with a focus on materials that will last the test of time. Something that you want to hold onto and treasure, like an Hermes box. So our discovery set, after use, provides a beautiful design piece to place in a room or save jewelry, trinkets or crystals in. You will see with some of the other product categories that we start rolling out how we envision this evolving.

How do you believe that fragrance can help us connect with each other, ourselves, and to the world around us?

As we all know, scent is the only sense that we have as humans that goes straight into the limbic system and isn’t processed elsewhere in the brain. This guttural, reactionary nature I find to be deeply therapeutic. It almost brings you back to a childlike state. Many times, when I would get too in my head about things in the brand development stages, I would actually turn to my then 3-year-old daughter to ask what she thought because I know there would be no pretense, anxieties, judgement or overthinking. 

Additionally, after doing a lot of work myself dealing with anxiety in my late 20’s I learned how to apply behavioral and observational patterns to reduce the anxiety. The more I came into myself I was able to apply those same techniques to the world of mindfulness, consciousness and meditation that translated into awareness and appreciation in even the most mundane aspects of life.  I am so intrigued with the intersection of fragrance and science, the brain and the mind. 

The brand focuses on five key aspects of connection — the sacred pillars that help us to achieve a sense of balance and wholeness. These include: connection to self, connection to others, connection to nature, connection to the world, and finally, connection to finding one’s purpose. These aspects will be brought to life with more robust programming and community-based initiatives. 

What was the idea behind the name Maison d’Etto?

Etto is a combination of Ethics + Motto, created by writer, novelist and female polo player Courtney Maum. It represents the core truths and beliefs you carry with you despite where you are or what you are going through in life. It also stands for “Each To Their Own”. It is a brand that refuses to dictate values and beliefs to its wearer but rather empowers them to explore what Etto uniquely means to them. 

What is your process for working with perfumers, and what have you learned from them along the way?

Ha. It’s unconventional to say the least! 

Sometimes it can be a straightforward brief, but even then it’s just a springboard – there is always plenty of room for interpretation and space for each performer’s signature style to come through. Other times it’s a conversation, text (or even Instagram DM which drives the sales team crazy, sorry!) Other times, it’s cracking open a bottle of champagne on a Friday evening dissecting every single ingredient, nuance, and modification then doing a documentary photoshoot, which turns into a bunch of us rolling around on the ground of IFF laughing until our stomachs ache…Pre COVID, of course!

Perfumers are creatives. I really like to work with perfumers that connect with energy, passion, emotion, and can distill all of those things into an incredibly soulful fragrance. I have never had success with any type of creative person sitting behind a desk, so I like to get them out of the office if I can, and get them out of “work” mode. I like to be able to connect deeply with each perfumer, and let’s not forget the evaluator. I couldn’t do any of this without Alexandra Cassar, she’s my eyes, ears, voice, translator, and brand filter. We have a very deep and personal relationship, she at this point knows exactly how I’m going to react and respond. 

I have learned from perfumers to love and enjoy life and to surrender to the beauty and frustrations of life and perfumery. Sometimes it just works and other times you can’t force it, you have to just give it space, time and a lot of patience. The more you respect the fragrance the more it will give to you. Perfumers have also taught me that this is where I belong, and that is so cool. 

What achievement has been most gratifying for you since the brand’s launch?

Hands down the most gratifying achievement was the ‘Our Love Letter to You’ initiative that we did during the first wave of COVID in May when the tri-state was absolutely inundated with cases. I wanted to do something special for my friends who had all become doctors and were on the front lines. I had to do something as a member of society, founder and leader of a purpose-driven brand. 

We partnered with IFF and other like-minded brands (Costa Brazil, Diptyque, Royal Fern and natureofthings) to donate 500 care packages to healthcare workers. IFF discovered through fMRI technology that one of the ingredients used in the fragrance, which by the way was still a complete work in progress, was associated with activating parts of the brain involved in relaxation. Our purpose was to bring respite, hope and peace to healthcare workers through a new fragrance we were working on at the time.. It was a true moment of community, care, commitment, love and gratitude. 

What does joining the Fragrance Foundation mean to you, and what do you hope it will bring to Maison d’Etto?

As a complete outsider to the fragrance industry, joining The Fragrance Foundation means so much. Number one, it validates our existence by a trusted and respected industry authority. It provides community and a place for connection and collaboration. As a self-funded brand, being a part of TFF always seemed a bit out of reach given the capital requirements for membership. With the new inclusivity initiative, I am now able to participate, and have a seat at the table, but also give back with my unique skill set as well. We all have strengths and weaknesses, and I am so excited to be able to learn and strengthen our weaknesses and add tremendous value with many of our strengths to the collective membership and organization. When we all come together amazing things happen! @

@maisondetto

October 2020

At the September TFFAwards webinar, I announced our new important objective: to grow and expand our community to include diverse members. We have made great progress. We added new benefits for indie brands based on our resources. We have reached out and met new indies and discovered great new brands who align with our mission. They join us to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. 

For a limited time, we are offering one-year memberships to indies whose overall USA brand footprint has considerable growth potential and to whom we can provide guidance. These entrepreneurs have progressed in their brand development and are now in the position to benefit as TFF members. In addition, we also reconnected with those brands that had contacted us in the last year who had not applied for membership due to constraints on either side.

In this edition of Accords, we feature extraordinary creators of fragrance brands, each with unique identities: Teri Johnson of Harlem Candle Company, Matthew Herman & David Kien of Boy Smells, and Brianna Lipovsky of Maison d’Etto. Each of their stories clearly indicate that they are on a trajectory to fragrance success. While we have met them in what appears to be the early chapters in their journeys, they all clearly are open to a future of growth at a time when there are many unknowns. But this we know for sure: their creativity, resourcefulness and first-class candles and fragrances make us proud to welcome them as new members into our fragrance community.

Starting today we will welcome these and other new indie brands, highlighting them all in our weekly newsletter Noteworthy and on our TFF Website. 2020 has brought us so many challenges, but this is proof positive that TFF is embracing the best we can be together, with diversity, equity and inclusion as our guide.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

September 2020

Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year Winner – Zoologist Squid

Celine Barel, IFF

Celine Barel is a rarity: someone who grew up in Grasse, but had no family members in the fragrance industry. She initially went to business school to work on the brand side, but soon fell in love with the art of creation and went on to study at IFF, honing her olfactive talents and ultimately bringing her unconventional and spirited approach to fragrances for Diana Vreeland, Jo Malone London, Norell, Maison d’Etto, Lancôme and more. Barel is widely regarded as a rising superstar, and winning Perfume Extraordinaire for Zoologist Squid surely cements that reputation. Here, she shares the inspiration and ideas that went into the making of this special award-winning scent.  

What was the initial idea behind Zoologist Squid? 

There was no real corporate brief. All I got was this word: “squid.”  It actually meant a lot to me, as it opened a whole fantastical world without boundaries. I love how Zoologist’s animals are portrayed as true characters and have an olfactive identity. It talks to my Peter Pan side!

What were some of your inspirations while formulating it?

The animal portrait brought me to the Victorian age, one of my favorite historical periods; to the XIXth century, at the height of Romanticism. Immediately “Squid” made me think about Jules Verne’s A Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, with a frightening giant squid coming from the deepest part of the ocean. Those abysses are supposedly located in the Chinese sea, so I also thought about incorporating frankincense.

But the true starting point was serendipitous: when Victor and I started talking about creating Squid I just came back from a trip to Dubai. While swimming there, I injured my foot walking on a massive squid bone. I seized the bone, smelled it and fell in love with its smell: it had an intense solar saltiness, was pungent, sweet and grainy like tonka, and more raw than ambergris. I brought it back to IFF and we did a headspace analysis.  

How does the fragrance express your style as a perfumer? 

 Squid is telling a story. It takes you on a journey. It has a universe of its own, and is unexpected. It is NOT obvious nor common. It evokes totally what it is supposed to. I love to create this type of perfumery. 

What made Squid a unique experience for you personally?  

I truly loved collaborating with Victor, Zoologist’s founder, because of his unique vision, his great culture, the richness of his brand’s universe with each animal. The fact that when we thought we had a good olfactive idea, he encouraged me to overdo it! 

And now, what makes Squid’s creative experience even more unique is this TFF Perfume Extraordinaire Award, which means it has been appreciated by my peers and experts of the fragrance industry. It is a very very sweet award to receive. I am really grateful and deeply honored. 

And I am happy that a “small gem” like Zoologist is made visible among the industry’s giants thanks to TFF and this award. Self-funded brands don’t always have the financial means to shine in the glossy magazines so the role TFF is playing in supporting them is major.

What effect did you want the finished perfume to achieve for the wearer?

I wanted Squid to express at the same time a calm and stormy mind, going from a deep dark mood to a bright happy place. I imagined the wearer becoming a romantic hero! I totally imagine Louis II of Bavaria wearing it!